THE GREATNESS OF THE KAILASH TEMPLE

Among the many wonders of the world is the phenomenon of cutting through sheer, solid, natural rock and creating remarkable artistic structures and sculptures. Though this is found in many parts of the world, nowhere else do we find the abundance and variety of rock cut architecture that we find in India. From the beginning of recorded history, it is fascinating to see how closely man has worked with nature. He looked for solace and support and found spiritual contentment in the sun and the skies, in fire and water. Man replicated the beauty of nature on materials he found in nature, colouring it with his own emotions and feelings, and thus was born art. He then wove his thoughts and the collective wisdom of his ancestors into a treasure trove of tradition, drawing inspiration from the continuity and steadfastness of nature, giving birth to culture. In India, we come across a most magnificent example of human craftsmanship on natural formations. Located in the western state of Maharashtra, the Ellora Cave temples represent a confluence of religion, art and culture. The Ellora Caves were first excavated during the Kalichari era in the 6th century AD. The work on these caves thus continued for about 350 years, from the 6th to the 10th century AD. Working on the hard countenance of sheer rock, a succession of ancient craftsmen and sculptors created what is now known as one of the most enduring legacies of human spirit and endeavour. The Hindu, Buddhist and Jain temples carved out on the face of the rock are a flashpoint in the progress of our ancient civilisation. The high point of the Hindu temples is undoubtedly cave number 16, the Kailash temple. It is dedicated to Lord Shiva, but pays homage to other gods as well. There are columned galleries, three storeys high, large sculpted panels and alcoves containing enormous sculptures. An inscription on this temple acknowledges the patronage of the Rashtrakuta ruler Krishna I, who ruled from 757 to 783 AD. Mount Kailash is the mythical abode of Lord Shiva, the third face of the Hindu trinity, which consists of Brahma, the creator, Vishnu, the preserver and Shiva, the destroyer. In attempting to recreate this version of paradise, the ancient craftsmen and artists of Ellora came up with something of an architectural marvel. Cave number 16 of Ellora, the Kailash temple, is the largest monolithic structure in the world. Carved out of a single rock, it equals the area of the Greek Parthenon and is almost double its height. This 8th century creation took 7,000 craftsmen a hundred years to build, cutting painstakingly through 85,000 cubic meters of the volcanic rock. Two great trenches, measuring about 90 meters in length, were first cut into the hillside, using hammers and chisels. They were connected at their deepest point by another trench measuring 53 meters across. Having prepared the field, the workmen then set out to carve the 30-meter high residual stone, giving it shape and significance. It was conceived and executed by architects from the Pallava kingdom of the south. While normal temple structures are built from the base upwards, the Kailash temple was worked upon from top downwards, cutting and carving on rock with cautious precision to fashion the slow grandeur of their artistic expression. Giving the impression of a freestanding, multistory temple complex, the phenomenon of Ellora actually rests on a single mammoth rock. The temple complex has four main parts. The first is the gateway to the temple, which is two stories high, and opens into an imposing U-shaped courtyard with enormous carved pillars on either side. This courtyard is surrounded by columned galleries three stories high. In an earlier time, stone bridges used to connect these galleries to the structures of the central temple, but they have now fallen. The second part of the complex is the temple itself, built in the manner of an ornate pyramid, carved elaborately with Indian cultural and religious symbols. The third part is a Nandi shrine in the middle, which is one of the most important sculptures here. And finally, we have cloisters for the inhabitants surrounding the courtyard. The plinth of the building looks like a floor by itself, and adds to its amazing stature. Above and below this plinth, the substructure has been worked upon and contoured, while a frieze of elephants and lions occupies the space in the center. The base of the main temple is so ingeniously fashioned that it gives the impression that elephants are holding up the entire structure. The deities to the left of the entrance are mostly Shaivite, while the ones to the right are Vaishnavite. The entrance itself is 50 meters long and 33 meters wide. Its tower rises 29 meters above the level of the courtyard. Goddesses Ganga and Yamuna form the door jams and welcome us through this sacred threshold, with a symbolic purification by the waters of the holy rivers. We then come upon two seated sages, Vyasa and Valmiki, the legendary authors of the Mahabharata and the Ramayana. We are now greeted by symbols of prosperity and well-being. Four columns in the porch, with their motifs of vases and foliage, carry a message of fruition and prosperity. Kubera, the god of wealth, adorns both sides of the doorway, along with a conch and a lotus. Shiva's wife and son complete our reception committee, Durga, the slayer of evil, and Ganesha, the deity of good fortune. The temple is flanked on either side by two pillars 16 meters high. They are believed to have once borne the trident of Shiva. In the cubicle opposite, we meet Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth. Elephants line the courtyard on either side. Turning the corner, we come across a panel on the left. This shows Karma, the god of desire, holding aloft his bow and five arrows, one for each of our senses. To the left of the entrance, on the far wall behind the pillars, is a shrine dedicated to the three river goddesses, Ganga, flanked by Yamuna, and Saraswati. They represent the three streams of purity, devotion, and wisdom. There is a series of panels here portraying Shiva and Vishnu myths, a graphic gallery for worshippers down the ages. The south wall has stories from the Ramayana and a series of images. Ravana offering his heads. Shiva and Parvati with Nandi the bull and the lingam. Shiva playing the veena. Shiva and Parvati playing dice. The marriage of Shiva and Parvati. The origin of the lingam, which is the symbol of Shiva, representing creative energy. Shiva dancing. Ravana shakes Mount Kailash on a panel of the south mandapam as he attempts to carry it away, disturbing Parvati and her attendants. One of the women is seen frightened and fleeing, but Shiva restores order with a movement of his toe. Along the north wall are stories from the Mahabharata on top and the legends of Krishna below. They include Krishna stealing buttermilk. Vishnu as Narasimha, half man, half lion. Vishnu reclining on Ananta, the serpent. And Vishnu, the preserver. Finally, we see Annapurna, the goddess of plenty. In the inner porch, we come across two panels showing Shiva as the lord of knowledge and also as Bhairava, killing the elephant demon. The steps of the main shrine lead to the upper floor, which contains a mandapam with 16 substantial pillars arranged in groups of four. And then finally, at the far end, is the core of this magnificent temple. It's garbhagriha, or sanctum, with Ganga and Yamuna guarding the door. The sanctum contains the sacred Yoni lingam, symbolizing the vast creative energy of Lord Shiva. Running around the back of the sanctum is a passageway with five small shrines, each with a replica of the main temple. The Kailash temple represents many significant dimensions. It is the single largest work of art executed in India. It is a classic and unrivaled example of rock-cut architecture and intricate sculpture. It represents the vision, ingenuity and labor of innumerable people down the ages. It represents a liberating visit to the icy reaches of Mount Kailash itself, the abode of Lord Shiva. Standing within these walls, it is difficult to ignore the tremendous spiritual energy that characterized its creation and preserved it through the warp and weft of unfolding centuries, making it one of the oldest wonders of our modern world.