The Brewster Glacier is located past the Brewster Hut in New Zealand's Southern Alps, near Haast Pass, on the Main Divide. This hike is a not so secret gem in one of the corners of Mt. Aspiring National Park and we decided to do it as a day hike. Most people will spend at least one night at the Brewster Hut, but we tried to beat some bad weather that was headed our way and blazed up and back to the glacier in a day.
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My name is Jesse St Louis (AKA Infamous JSL) and I'm an actor that likes to go on awesome adventures between gigs. I've been called a "no frills Bear Grylls" but mostly I've been called an Actor. Traveler. Smart-ass.
So we're heading out to tackle the Brewster Glacier today.
There is a hut, the Brewster Hut, however we are going to be doing it
in one day. Starting off the day with a nice refreshing river crossing. So right
before the trail starts there's an unbridged
river crossing. So we are going to cross this river
and then I'll tell you why we're not staying at the hut.
The one thing I'll say about this area is we're in Haas Pass.
Sandflies can get pretty thick so if you're gonna take your shoes
and socks off to cross the river you gotta do it quickly because you will get
swarmed. Especially if you're wearing dark
clothes. They love the dark clothes. So standing here
essentially acting as sandfly bait because they will swarm the dark colored
stuff. They love the dark colored clothes.
So the lighter clothes you can wear the better to avoid the sandflies. We're
headed to a glacier today. It's gonna be an epic day.
Day hike and something like 1,500, 1,600 meter elevation gain
and we are excited to go to the snout of the glacier. Sam has been working on
her glacier snout noises all day long and she wants to share them
with you. That's untrue. You worked on yours. What are we gonna do
when we get to the snout of the glacier? No, you do it.
Already working up a good sweat as we're headed straight up
more or less. So this is what they call a tramping
track. These orange markers denote tracks here in New Zealand and when we
first got here I was a little confused the difference
between a walking track and a tramping track and a route and all that stuff but
finally after two years we figured it out. We figured it out a while back
actually. But a tramping track is you know routes and not not really a
well-formed track whereas a walking track is like a maintained track. They
put like gravel down. It's really wide and on the
great walks they only increase by a certain
percentage grade or something like that. So this is definitely a tramping track
and then to get from the hut to the glacier I believe
is a route and some routes are marked and some routes are unmarked. This one
is kind of unofficially marked from what I've heard by
Cairns. The reason why we're not doing this has an overnight
staying at the hut. We had originally planned to stay at the hut but there was
some weather moving in and so we didn't want to get stuck
on this side of the river in case that river came up and we weren't able to
cross it. Apparently last week there was a big storm like three or four
days. They got something like 600 millimeters of rain in this area and a
group of people got stuck on this side of the river because it was just way too
high and swift moving to cross over. So we adjusted our plans. We got up early
and we're going to hit the glacier and back in a day to avoid that incoming
rain. Above the tree line now starting to get
some epic views already. Just a small taste of
what's to come because once we catch a glimpse of that
glacier with the sun reflecting off the pools
it's going to be amazing. So it took us three hours to reach the hut.
We weren't going exceedingly fast. Actually we're going pretty slow. We
stopped to talk to every group we passed. Three hours to reach the hut. Supposedly
it's another two hours to the glacier. We're going to have plenty of daylight
to enjoy the Brewster Glacier today since sunset's not till nine o'clock.
Pretty sweet views though from up here at the hut.
I think this is Mount Armstrong over here.
So it's another peak you can do. So they do have a
rainwater catchment here at the hut and they also have a
pit toilet in the back there. So it's a good pit stop.
No pun intended. If you want to just hoof it all the way to the glacier as a day
hike. I mean we're going pretty slow so I mean I could see
people making it up here in less substantially less than three hours. Two
hours up maybe. Maybe another hour and a half to the
six seven hour day. I think our day is going to be
definitely longer than that. Probably nine or ten hour day. Maybe more.
Sam is on her second v and she had floated going
to this other peak Mount Armstrong. So it could be even longer
if she finishes that v. So this hut is actually pretty nice. I believe it's a
12 bunk hut and it's $30 a night per person.
You have to book online to pay ahead of time.
Well we made it to the epic viewpoint of the glacier here. I don't think it took
very long. Maybe an hour hour and a half something like that.
So the key thing is there are cairns so it is kind of marked but there's some
lot of different cairns in certain areas but it's pretty
mellow. I mean you're sidling across kind of a scree slope at some points but
in terms of elevation gain like right after the hut
it kind of like levels out like you go up a bit and then you're kind of just
sidling across the scree slope and got this
epic view of the glacier here. I think we're going to go down and maybe
take a quick swim in one of these melt lakes here.
They look absolutely inviting and freezing which
I could do for a little cooling off right now. Worked up a good
sweat. Just a magnificent sight here. These
glacial melt lakes. The mountains in the background. The glacier there.
It's amazing to see this glacier up close and
personal. It's pretty sad to see how far it's receded. I mean we
looked at the topographical map and it was glacier where we were standing
on rocks so it's receded quite a bit just like all the glaciers in
New Zealand and around the world. The loss of the
glaciers and I can't help but just it feels like when you see the water
dripping off the ice there it's almost as if the
tears of mother earth are flowing from the glacier. Not sure if that's a
little cheesy or melodramatic but that's how I felt in the moment looking
at looking at that glacier melting. I feel
grateful and lucky to be here but I also feel
incredibly sad.
Infamous.