Online qipao course - how to cut a Qipao?

hello my name is Lou I'm a Cho dress maker in the past two years I have published a beginnner Cho course and an advanced course in Chinese it is quite a success and I receive many great works from students this year I plan to translate the courses into English and show them to you you don't need to have any sewing experiments or own a sewing machine follow the instructions you will be able to make beautiful Teapot by hand in Tradition Chinese dress making instead of making pattern on paper we fold the fabric in four layers and outline the chipot directly on the fabric today I will show you one of the lessons of Cho cutting let's have a look on the lesson The Cutting method is the shift warp method it is suitable for flare Silhouettes and stiffer fabric like cotton silk brade or satin warp yarn is on the vertical green line of the fabric it is the lens wise of the fabric the center line of the Chapo is on the warp yard the W yarn is on the horizontal cross green of the fabric it is the west of the fabric the shoulder line of the teot is on the W yarn the shift warp method is a way of Shifting The Warp yarn to get enough overlap and Sim allowance for the small plaque head and the Ender layer the Sim allowance is the area between the stitching line and the raw edge of the fabric and the overlap need to hide the stitching line there are four main step in the shift warp method the first step fold the fabric in the Second Step draw the shape of the plet the third step shrink and stretch the neck area the fourth step outline the chal keep in mind these four main steps and let's look at the details of each one now let's do the first step for the fabric there are two small details in the first one the first fold the fabric the second shift the warp yarn to together the new center line of teal lay the right side of the fabric on the table this is a cotton fabric and the right side has vertical ja card patterns the round side is plain I use a piece of cloth on a scale of 1 to three the width is 1 one0 cm and the length is 265 CM fold the fabric on the cross grain to get the temporary Center Line the fabric is now on the WR side be aware that the folded Center Line is away from us the Salvage is near our hands do not fold it the wrong way if so the top plet will be on the wrong side it is a taboo in Chinese culture to wear a teapot with left plet steam iron the temporary Center Line the fabric becomes a long rectangular shape the back of the Garment is on the left hand side the front of the Garment is on the right hand side next draw the shoulder line from the back Mark a 5 cm Sim allowance from the bottom we need to leave this extra 5 cm in case you need to extend the length of the Chapo during fitting from this 5 cm Mark the length of the Cho the length of my Cho is 115 cm draw a perpendicular line on the marking this is the temporary shoulder line the traditional one piece teot share the same shoulder line for the front and back fold the two layers of the front to the back use a stale ruler in between the fa brakes to help iron the shoulder line clearly Mark the length of the Chapo from the front shoulder line plus a front and back shoulder length difference the shoulder lens difference depends on our own measurements for example my shoulder lens difference is 2 cm so I Mark 2 cm if your difference is 3 cm Mark 3 cm if yours 4 cm Mark 4 cm then Mark a 5 cm similar Rance for the Hem draw a perpendicular line on the mark this is the bottom line of the front the front pieces are slightly longer than the back pieces because of the shoulder length difference cut off the excess fabric from the bottom [Music] line after folding the fabric Breck in four layers the outer shoulder line connects the front and back of right side the inner shoulder line connects the front and back of left side let's learn the second detail shift the warp yarn to get the new center front and back line opened up the folded layer on the back layer the left hand side Mark the shifted amount on the length of the tal do not mark on the 5 cm in malen shift 1.5 to 2 cm for long chipal around the cff shift 1 cm for short chipal around the knee align the shifted amount to the shoulder line of Center back fold the line and press it this is the new center back the Salvage of the back layers had also shifted next Mark the shifted amount on the front piece Mark the same shifted amount on the lens do not mark on the shoulder lens difference or the same allurance align the shifted amount to the center front and the shoulder line draw the new center Front Line fold and press the the Salvage of the front layers had also shifted after pressing the new Center Line rold the front to the back on the shoulder line align the front and back Center Line the Salvage of the second and third layers are almost on the same line the Salvage of the first and fourth layer are almost on the same line too if we open the folded shoulder we can find out that the outer shoulder line has some extra amount that the inner shoulder line this extra amount will become the overlap and sance for the small plet let's review this process on a flat view shift the center line 1.5 from the bottom of the center front and back outline Cho on the New Center Line there will appear some extra amount on the right shoulder side it will become the overlap and similar R for the small pluet unlike western dress making the grain of the fabric must be straight Chinese dress maker a century ago slightly shifted the grain some compromise is acceptable for reaching the goal that's all for this lesson I will translate and publish the course as soon as I can in the next video I will introduce the historical evolution in cha style hope you like today video and I will see you the next time bye