making a couture coat for my qipao

The flowers going downhill will always fall at your house Your eyebrows are like a painting I wander the world Brew me a cup of flower tea It's somewhat unsuitable with you The atmosphere starts to get a bit awkward You blush with a smile yet your heart is so despicable I can't help but worry about you what era is it that I no longer want to go home You smile proudly constantly praying for you Ning Mu knows what to do in a few seconds your sleeve-flinging demeanor changes in your heart a pot of good wine is this night still endless Savor this wonderful time alone In the deep of night a quiet loneliness lingers Rushing around slightly drunk not suitable for solitude Hello everyone Welcome back to my channel The content of this video is making a long coat I want this coat to be worn in the autumn and winter seasons paired with a long cheongsam so the length is made to the ankle The collar is a very large flat collar mainly for practicing the technique of attaching the collar The sleeves are slightly larger so they can be paired with these flared sleeves This coat's difficulty is five stars for me all the content was completed according to the instructions in a sewing book it gives a very detailed introduction All steps of the women's high-top craftsmanship So let's start making it Once the pattern is done you can start making it Draw the stiffener outline on the fabric Then mark it with coarse stitching Sew all the seams Center line Seam line Alignment points The buttonhole position is 2.5 centimeters from the edge the narrow line is 2.5 centimeters from the edge the pocket position is 2.5 centimeters from the edge leave 4 centimeters at the bottom Cut out a rough shape and then you can fix the lining to the back of all the pieces There is one detail to note mentioned on page 130 of the book the concept of Fulling a backing means that if the main fabric is elastic like wool when sewing two pieces of fabric together The lining should be slightly larger than the main fabric so that it does not restrict the elasticity of the main fabric Start by adding 0.3 centimeters to each side of the lining fabric Pin it to the side seam After tightening both sides of the fabric If the excess underlay is just right and disappears smoothly it's a success Too loose or too tight requires readjustment Confirm the underlay size Sew the two layers of fabric together along all the lines of the pattern Now we need to cut out the pre-shrunk interfacing and attach it to the garment piece The front back hips hem and pockets of the main body are all reinforced with bias binding The sleeves and collar base are also reinforced with bias binding This coat's lining method refers to page 176 the Valentino jacket technique only adding lining to the top part of the garment and below the waist Leave the waist seam open for now This makes the waist fit more closely to the body At this point you can fix the collar seam to the main piece Fix the neck edge Fix the shoulder line at 2 points Then along the neck line 2.5 centimeters fix a line to the lining end Finally fix the last line at 2.5 centimeters from the sleeve opening Next shape the neck area Add a stiffener along the neckline Make the stiffener a bit shorter than the neckline At this point take the excess fabric from the body of the garment along the neckline The average distribution lies between the two points just marked First sew a thick stitch in the middle of the ribbon Then use a hammer needle to permanently fix the two sides of the ribbon This step is for when wearing it Allows the neck opening to better conform to the curve of the front chest Support the neck opening line with your hand Start sewing parallel diagonal stitches from beside it Its purpose is to sew the main fabric and lining together while also shaping the neck area Each stitch is 1 centimeter long Each row is 1 centimeter apart Stop when sewing the triangular part of the collar Change the direction of the grip Hold the long side of the triangle Sew a 0.6 long parallel diagonal stitch With a 0.6 spacing This will make the collar edges more inward After sewing the two collars iron them Turn the collar to the wrong side Place it on the ironing board Turn to the front and place a layer of wool on the collar then add a damp cotton cloth iron until completely dry we try not to let the iron touch the main fabric directly To avoid damaging the luster of the wool fabric We will now add a strip of fabric to the edge of the front piece The book says on page 179 This is one of the secrets of haute couture craftsmanship The key of this craft is to make the straight edge smooth and thin after sewing The strips are best made of lightweight fabrics such as chiffon organdy First use a straight stitch to mark the seam line with a pin Then use a pen to mark the outline Start from the neck opening mouth positioning point Trim away the excess stitching of the lining I am not sure if the meaning in the book is the same as what I understand I trimmed the lining 0.4 centimeters inside the mirror line Start 2.5 centimeters below the front collar opening on the lining Align the strip with the inner edge of the mirror line Pin it to the seam line with straight pins Eat some large fabric when it's time for the next section The technique is to pull the fabric tight at the area you want to process Tighten some fabric strips Pin the entire strip of fabric in place with a safety pin then sew it firmly Now treat the edge of the other side in the same way then use a needle to permanently sew the two strips of fabric on the front pieces together The strip is sewn to the lining one side and to the main fabric on the other side If you want to make a mouth opening you have to do it at this step Erase this stitching mar Here we can sew the upper part to the lower part On the edge of a rectangular pattern paper draw parallel vertical lines 2.5 centimeters Place the pot head cardboard next to this line Let the curved edge of the pot head cardboard make the maximum possible contact with the vertical line Draw the outline of the surface along the board shape Leave a 2.5 centimeter space around the edges for the seam allowance Place the new piece on the fabric Find the most attractive position for the seam line Draw the outline and cut it out Stitch a 5-7 5 cm gathering line at the lower edge Pull and gather 0.6-0.9 cm At this point the Shizukana line will change from a straight line to a curved line The shaping is complete once the facing is pressed into the same shape as the main body's edge Now the facing can be sewn to the front piece Start from the lower point and operate towards the opening line tighten the main fabric at the lower point and the corner also give some looseness to the surface Temporarily stitch the body and the front with short thick stitches Flip to the front to check Press the corners to sew Although there will be many wrinkles inside at this point the corners will look very flat on the front I made some adjustments to the coat's steps The lower part of the facing was sewn together with the lining when processing the back After temporarily securing the two front panels It can be permanently stitched on the front side Use a backstitch to permanently sew it onto the thread which is next to the fabric strip After stitching check again No problem remove the basting stitches After sewing and pressing trim the seam to 0.6 cm above the lower point Trim the facing to 0.9 cm 0.9 cm below the lower point 0.6 cm over the seam To better control the diamond shape Fix the main body piece to the strip of fabric on the main body Stitch the facing again and attach it to the main garment seam Press all the fabric pieces before final pressing Sew a temporary basting line 0.6 cm from the edge Sew while adjusting the direction of the stitching with your hand Do not let the stitching show on the right side The stitching above the lower point should be directed towards the main body The stitching below the lower point should be directed towards the front side 1.3 cm above and below the lower point The stitching should be exactly in the center of the edge Then sew another straight stitch along the edge 2 cm from the edge Also use a zigzag stitch to secure the neck opening Finally press with a damp cloth covering the fabric being pressed Prepare the front and back pieces before sewing them together Add the lining to the remaining pieces as well Seam the side seams closed At this point you can also permanently sew on the pocket Stitch the pocket closed We need to prepare the sleeves and the collar Let's start with the sleeves First baste the lining of the large and small sleeve pieces Use a diagonal stitch to secure the thread line Stitch the sleeve head and side seams in place with a running stitc Next remove the curve of the front sleeve from the large sleeve piece Sew the front and back side seams of the sleeve Then at the stitching points of the front and back of the T-shirt sew three lines of gathering The first line on the neck line the second line 0.3 cm below the neck line The third line is 0.3 cm below the neck line The length of the sleeve head that needs to be gathered should be reduced to the same length as the main body's sleeve hole Next attach a 5 cm wide bias binding to the sleeve opening Sew the lining in place before attaching the sleeves When cutting the lining leave 4 cm for the sleeve head seam Leave 3 cm for the sleeve hem seam Stitch the seam allowances by 0.3 cm on each side Let the lining be slightly larger than the sleeve Turn the sleeves and lining to the wrong side Turn the main sleeve piece downward Turn the lining sleeve piece upward 10 cm from the side seam beginning and the cuff Sew the two side seams together Secure the side seam first Turn the sleeve to the right side Pin the sleeve to the lining 12.5 cm above the cuff and 12.5 cm below the sleeve seam using a diagonal stitch to temporarily secure the sleeve and lining then trim the lining's cuff Let the cuff extend 1.3 cm Turn the sleeve to the wrong side and fold the lining Let the cuff extend 1.3-1.8 cm Stitch the inner seam 1 cm above the folded edge Baste the folded edge in place Use your fingers to open the folded edge and secure the lining to the cuff with a blind stitch Sew the sleeve in place Let's make the collar base and collar face The first step is to sew the center back of the collar base Coping with 0.9 cm trimming Cut out the interfacing for the collar base Overlap and sew together Sew two lines on both sides of the center line Trim the excess lining Second use a diagonal needle to secure the folded line Stitch with some tension on the thread Fold the collar bottom to the front Fold along the crease and press it into a concave shape At the same time open the outer edge of the collar bottom Step four use the stitching line marked on the front of the lining as a reference line draw the seam line on the interfacing Next sew diagonal stitches on the facing with the right side up hold the bottom edge fold line with one hand start from the side of the fold line and sew a row of parallel diagonal stitches Each needle is 0.6 cm long Each row spacing is 0.6 cm Step five stitch a diagonal stitch on the lapel with the interfacing up starting from the center back and stitching one side supporting the lapel with your hand Seam length of 1 cm to 1 3 cm diagonal stitch 1 to 1 3 cm spacing between rows Leave a 2.5 cm isosceles triangle at the point of the lapel A method like stitching a seam Stitch a 0.3 to 0.6 cm long Diagonal stitches with 0.3 to 0.6 cm spacing between rows Step six Redraw the underlining on the lining Cut away the lining outside the underlining If the diagonal stitch goes beyond the underlining you need to remove some If it's not enough add some more Step seven stitch the folded collar to the lining Temporarily baste and press the seam Trim away the excess seam allowance Then use a triangle needle to sew the edge to the lining Iron the stand-up collar and the collar base separately Do not press the iron over the fold line Now the collar can be processed The edge of the collar will look more elegant following the grain line To make the collar First cut out a piece 5 cm longer than the collar base 5cm wide rectangle The direction of the silk threads on the collar should be consistent with the main garment piece Use a steam iron to shape the collar face Stitch the inner and outer edges of the collar with the right sides together first securing the fold line Stitch the edge of the collar with a sewing pin Also give some fullness to the collar face This is to prevent the stitching from showing on the front side Remove the temporarily fixed zigzag line Flip the collar to the front and check it No problem sew the seat with short thick stitches After a second check sew permanently with a backstitch stop at the collar edge press and trim the seam trim the collar to 1 cm Trim the bottom to 0.6 cm Pin them to the lining with a triangular needle Collar turned to the fro The bottom edge is up First sew a securing line 0.6 cm from the edge Fold the collar again into the finished product shape Adjust the curve and stitch the crease roughly in place Trim the stitching line of the crotch seam to 1 cm Fold it to the wrong side of the fabric and sew roughly to secure the fold line Steam one last time We will now sew the lining onto the main body Cut the lining from the main fabric just like the sleeve lining and the lining should be slightly larger than the main fabric Stitch the inner seam with a 0.3 cm overlap on each side The inner lining should have a 2.5 cm pleat Turn the main body right side up on the table First sew a hem facing around the bottom This will add support to the bottom of the garment Want a soft hem stitch Fold the hemline Create a 1 3cm wide interfacing fold at the hemline The edge must align with the hemline seam Stitched with an invisible stitch to the lining The garment has a lining The lining can be of any length It should be at least 7.5 cm wide The bottom of the garment is permanently attached to the lining Fold the lining fabric to the wrong side to expose 2 cm of the coat for sewing Fold the lining up to the 1.3 cm mark and stitch it in place Use your fingers to flip open the bottom edge of the lining Seamlessly stitched single-layer lining with invisible stitching Now you can permanently stitch the main shoulder seam Remember to remove the lining Before stitching the sleeve we need to tighten the back armhole 3.8 cm below the shoulder line 5 cm up from the sleeve opening end Double stitch along the seam line Tighten the back sleeve by 0.6-1.3 cm First sew the sleeves in place on the main body armhole Starting from the front piece alignment point Along the shoulder line to the back piece alignment point Return to the alignment point after sewing to the lower side Stitch the sleeves by hand to control the distribution of fullness between the front and back darts Check again before permanent stitching if the sleeves have any wrinkles when hanging dow Once everything is ready the sleeves can be permanently sewn in place I choose to hand-sew with a backstitch because although it takes more time than machine stitching it offers better control and the stitches are more elastic Stitch the seams together and remove the coarse stitches and press the armhole flat for sewing At this stage you can sew on the shoulder pads and sleeve head My coat had a shoulder pad sewn in but it was later removed When the pattern was made my shoulder slope didn't account for the shoulder pad so it felt a bit tight on the shoulders I followed the instructions in the book for making the sleeve placket I used leftover fabric from the main garment cut a rectangle on the bias 21.8 cm long and 6.3 cm wide Fold the fabric so that one side is 0.3 cm longer than the other Use the slant needle to secure the folded fabric strip Fold the edge along the sleeve cap seam The folded edge should overlap the seam by 0.3-0.6 cm Sleeve openings are 9.3 cm on the front and 12.5 cm on the back When the sleeve edge is folded towards the sleeve the cuff will have an extra double fold Next comes the fixed collar step Before operating trim the neck opening line of the front piece to 1 cm Fold it and secure it to the back neck opening line with a coarse stitch Add some ease to the fold line to prevent the crease from flattening Pin the bottom edge of the collar to the main collar opening Starting from the center back pin it to both ends Align the positioning mark with the collar opening and temporarily secure with a basting stitch at the main collar opening Next align the front edge stitching line with the back edge stitching line temporarily secure it and then use an invisible stitch to secure this seam Stitch the facing to the neckline with a straight stitch When the lining is sewn in place the raw edge will be hidden Temporarily secure the collar top and collar bottom Use a sewing needle to permanently fix the collar bottom seam Remove the temporary stitching line and gently press it The final step is to sew the inner seams of the front and back pieces The neck hole and sleeve openings Then sew on the buttons The coat is finished Okay This is all the content of this video Hope everyone likes this suit coat If you have time you might as well start in the summer you can make a coat to wear in autumn and winter Goodbye until the next video Bye