【纪录片】美酒秀-Wine Show 戛纳惊情

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22 Video Views·Aug 26, 2024
Well, here we are again.
Two thirsty thesps with a couple of weeks off from the grease paint.
Yes, I'm Matthew Good.
And I'm James Purefoy, and in this show we're in Cannes
for a cooking lesson with one of the world's best chefs.
Cumin.
No.
Cumin.
No.
Cumin.
I don't know. We're going to stick that in there, though.
Yeah.
I can't wait.
All part of the mission to find yet another bottle of wine
to satisfy the most influential wine critic on the planet,
Jancis Robinson.
Joe Fattorini and Amelia Singer feel the full force of the law.
If this works, we might try it again.
If it doesn't work, we'll wash our hands of it and say,
boy, that was a dumb idea.
They meet the sheriff who's releasing prisoners
to help solve California's labor shortage.
And Matthew Rees is all about the gadgets
with the latest in wine solutions for the traveling oenophile.
This is a well-made, beautiful, elegant gamay.
In a bag.
But is it decent plonk?
And George is on Joe's mind as he explores
one of the world's oldest wine cultures.
It is like being in the earth.
I feel, um, I feel communing a little bit down here.
So no matter if you're glass half empty or glass half full,
let us replenish your spirits at our Provencal Villa of Fun
because this is The Wine Show.
If Joe doesn't bring us something refreshing,
I'm actually just going to climb into the fridge.
Are you wilting?
Yes.
Slowly and steadily.
Matthew wilting.
Lovely lad.
Did somebody say the words refreshing?
What are those?
What have you got?
Good Lord.
Please.
What is that?
You are both going to need one of these.
Who has the bigger horn?
I think we know that.
I think we know where that's going.
Right.
Don't have it just yet.
Don't play with it.
That's for sure.
Don't play with it.
Where does wine begin?
Oh, I was going to say with wuh.
I would say it was in the Middle East.
It's not a million miles away.
Armenia.
They certainly have a claim.
Georgia.
Oh, ex-Soviet Union Georgia.
Absolutely.
We're going to go and find the origins of wine
and then taste some of those original wines.
Oh, lucky us.
Let's follow Joe to Tbilisi,
the capital of Georgia.
That's terrific.
And then when we come back,
I'll show you how to use those horns.
Oh, fantastic.
Georgia, a country that until recently
few of us had heard much about.
Its Soviet past has kept it
and its wines away from the rest of the world.
But it's a country in which
wine's influence can be found everywhere.
Even its alphabet
is said to imitate the shape of vines.
Every fibre of its being
is intertwined
with grapes and vines.
You might not expect it
from the land that gave us Stalin.
Georgia can indeed lay claim
to being the oldest wine culture
in the world.
The evidence for that is compelling.
Terracotta winemaking vessels
and fossilised grape pips
unearthed in the east of the country
have been dated back to over 6,000 years BC.
But what's truly remarkable
is that in the 8,000 years
that have followed,
in a country invaded over 50 times,
Georgians have never
stopped making wine.
And even more remarkably,
they've done it in the same way.
In any market,
wine can be found the style of which
has not changed for centuries.
This, I think, is what I've been looking for.
Gvino?
Can I have a try?
Here we go.
Let's have a whirl.
Definitely homemade.
You'd have this at a nice dinner.
Mmm.
Right, I'm going to buy that.
I shall take some home.
This amber wine is the purest expression
of what we wine folk call
natural wine.
No added yeasts or chemicals,
minimal intervention in the process
from beginning to end.
But more importantly for me,
it's an echo of Georgia's past.
Georgia is one of the oldest
Christian nations,
and I've come to the Sioni Cathedral
in the capital Tbilisi
to see one of the most holy
of the country's relics,
which also happens to be wine-related.
This is the most venerated
object in Georgia.
It's a simple vinewood cross
bound in the middle
by the hair of St Nino
1,700 years ago.
It's only open to the public
like this two days a year.
It's been open specially for us.
St Nino, miracle worker
and preacher, is revered
as the woman who converted
what was a pagan population
to Christianity.
All day, a stream of Georgians
have come to kneel in front of it
and to kiss the cross.
Could it be that St Nino
started Georgia's love affair
with wine?
Well, that's a question for the theologians
to answer, but there's one thing
I know already.
When Georgians are looking for a symbol
for who they are, how they feel,
the spirit of the nation,
Georgia keeps coming back
to the vine, to grapes
and ultimately to wine.
So Georgia can claim to be the cradle
of wine, useful marketing
for the tourist board.
Now here I have to make a confession.
As a wine journalist, I'm not known
for my evangelism of natural wine.
But what I'm ready to find out
is if it's more true
to the spirit of Georgian winemaking.
And for that,
I'm headed to Kakheti
in the east of the country.
Kakheti and its surrounding vineyards
have been producing natural wine
for eight millennia,
but the Red Army invasion of 1921
led to wholesale destruction
and the introduction of mass production techniques
to produce cheap wine for Russia.
Recovery since independence
in 1991 has been slow,
but Georgian wine has
at least one champion.
You found us. I have found you
in a vineyard. In a vineyard
of all places. Toiling hard.
Yeah, we're gathering the prunings.
Nice to see you.
John Werdemann,
the co-founder of the Pheasants Tears
winery, named after a local
legend in which the hero claims
that only a wine beyond measure
could make a pheasant cry tears
of joy. What was it that made
you choose this little bit of Georgia?
When I was 16 years old, I skateboarded to an alternative
music shop in Richmond, Virginia
called Plan 9. I bought a CD
called Georgian Folk Music
Today. When I popped it into the stereo,
everything resonated with me
and from that day on, I dreamt of
coming to Georgia. I ended up doing a master's
degree in painting in Moscow.
In 1995, I was invited to come
to Tbilisi by a Georgian family
and they whisked me away from
airport to restaurant. This restaurant
they had this golden color wine
that was flowing and flowing and flowing
and at a certain point, our host summoned in
musicians and the musicians that walked in
happened to be the exact same ones that were
on the CD that I had bought
when I was 16 years old back in 1991.
So it was almost like a sign. It was serendipity.
It was serendipity.
And it's all just kind of gone from there.
This almost feels like sort of an afterthought
being a winemaker.
In reality, the winemaking was an extension
of my interest in ethno music.
So you see there's an interconnectedness
in everything.
It's spontaneous fermentation of life.
Brilliant.
To make his wine, John uses
time-honored techniques
and these terracotta vessels called
kweveri.
Here we are at our original cellar.
These are the kweveri.
The fact that they're buried in the earth,
there's a whole philosophy behind that.
You know, the earth gives us the grapes.
We crush them into the kweveri
and the earth is warm
at the time of harvest
so spontaneous fermentation happens easily
and then we seal the top
and we keep it there until spring.
This is probably the most ancient method of winemaking.
Funny enough, it's considered very modern
and there's many people using kweveri
all around the world now today
and it's kind of like the new natural wine thing
but Georgians have been doing it
for more than 8,000 years.
Can I have a go?
Yeah, please. Make yourself at home.
It's strange to think that wine was being made this way
3,000 years before even the pyramids
were built.
It's cool as well. It's like stepping into
not quite a fridge but a sort of cool room
like a storeroom somewhere.
How big is this?
2,000 litres.
2,500 bottles, something like that?
Roughly. It's a coil method
so it's built in rings about 10 centimetres
for each layer.
It is
like being in the earth.
I feel communing
a little bit down here.
Just 2% of Georgian wine
is now made the traditional way.
OK, so let's open this guava.
So it's still on the skin
as you can see.
That's fabulous.
It's so fresh.
Look at this.
It's liquid sun.
It's my last evening in this incredible
country and
John's invited me to a supra,
a traditional Georgian celebration
of local food,
wine
and song.
Let's start
off with a toast to our creator
and thanking God,
thanking nature for the
bounty that we have. We have beautiful people
with wonderful voices,
opportunity to make new friends
and enjoy
this elixir of the gods.
So, gratitude.
Adikit.
I came as a
sceptic about natural wine
and what I learned was that sometimes
the textbooks don't tell you all you need to know.
You just need to experience wine
to know why it's good, why it's special,
why it matters
if you like. The other
feeling I had was more about
what it is to be a Georgian.
This is our
inheritance. This is what our ancestors
taught us.
My ability for love becomes
stronger because all the love is coming back
and it makes me love
singing, love dancing,
love the world
and that's why
Georgians, we're a strong nation.
I knew the facts and the figures and the
dates. Yes, that
matters. It is important
but the toasts
and then three kisses,
the way that wine was used
to mark the most important
and profound things in life,
love, emotion,
how you feel, who you are.
It made it,
for me, the most meaningful,
the most profound trip I've ever done
with the wine show.
What the hell
are they for? You're going to drink from
that in a minute. This is made by John.
Lovely bearded John.
Do you want to have a guess at the great varieties
in this? Yes.
It's like my school changing room.
I won't list the great varieties.
It says down here, 417
variety field blend.
A polyophony. That's why it's called
polyphony. Sorry.
Now what I want you to do, hold your horns.
Feel my horn.
Take your horns.
I want you to link your arms
like that.
That's it. Have a drink.
Taste.
Taste physics. Now kiss each other
three times.
What a man.
I never ever want to be
naked with you.
I only have one final task.
Oh good, now these are fun.
This.
This is magically good.
What is it?
I'm not going to give you too much
because it will get horribly out of hand.
More out of hand than it is already.
Go George.
If you have a slightly
upset stomach, this will
set you right for a week. Really?
Oh it's like grappa, bloody hell.
Isn't that brilliant?
I feel like such a man.
I feel like a lie down. Thanks Joe.
Always a pleasure.
You bring us surprise after surprise
every week. Thank you.
So after our starter from last time,
we're ready for something fishy in our
six course lunch.
It's been created by superstar French chef
Stéphane Renault.
But what's lunch in Provence without wine?
Joe Fattorini's challenged us both to find
our perfect wine for each course.
And joining
Joe is Jancis Robinson.
Not just a palate for hire, she is the world's
most influential wine critic.
Yes, Jancis will decide
which one of us has brought back the best wine
for this, the fish course, in our amazing
French feast.
Last time, Jancis picked my wine
to match the starter.
I'm going to go for Matthew
with the Vinolithic.
So it's even Stevens
as we face Stéphane's next dish.
Definitely all to play for.
Stéphane, I can smell this one outside.
Isn't that gorgeous?
Yes, it's no pig.
There's no pig detailing here.
This is calamar, a little squid?
Yes. It's cooked with white wine,
with ginger, with shallots,
with the hink, the squid hinks,
and cream.
We love cream. Absolutely.
But I will not tell you which one I've used
for my recipe.
I think you've tested James and Matthew
with this one because it's not an obvious
food and wine match really, is there?
It could be red and light,
it could be white and fresh.
It'll be fascinating to see what they choose.
Let's go to the table.
Now, where to find a wine
to match the fish course?
I smelt it a long time
before I saw it. I did the same.
It's a long way away, can't you?
I suggest it doesn't take a genius to head
to the coast, which is just as well
as I am a mere travelling player.
Geniuses we may not be,
but actors we are.
And like swallows to Capistrano,
we head to Cannes.
Mixing up your countries there, mate.
Cannes, on the Côte d'Azur.
Home to the famous film festival,
we are not unfamiliar
with these streets.
I've had the odd premiere here
and then comes the television festival here.
It's terribly exciting.
But you never see any of this.
No, because it's always night time.
Never wear sunglasses at night.
That's my only rule.
Is that your rule? It's the only rule you have.
I have many rules that equate to only in a tux.
We are going to have to think about this wine.
I mean, in all honesty, calamari.
Squid ink.
Well, the squid ink's the thing that's throwing me calamari.
I know, I know.
Give me a big old shabbly and let's go home.
It's dry.
It's white. It's citrus.
It's zesty.
It's got condensation trickling
gently down the side of the bottle.
Stop it. I'm wearing shorts.
Yes, Stefan's squid ink
is a bit of a curveball.
Fortunately, James, I'm a man with a plan.
In Cannes.
Oh, stop. Please.
Okay, fair enough.
But here's the thing.
I've pulled a few strings to get us a table
at the Palme d'Or,
the most exclusive restaurant in town.
Cor blimey, look at this.
Honestly, people will think we're photoshopped
against this background.
Oh, we're really not. This is for real.
It is for real.
I've arranged for head chef
Christiane Sinicropi,
a sensational two-Michelin-starred
culinary titan,
to cook lunch for us.
And we get to pick his bread.
So not only are we going
to have the perfect lunch,
one of the world's best chefs
is going to help us find a wine.
Genius.
I can't wait for this food.
The rewards are plenty
for this horrendous journey we've been on.
Or not, as the case may be.
Hello. How are you today?
Something obviously got lost
in translation.
To meet you.
But we're Hiddleston and Cumberbatch.
How are you?
Doesn't look like they've recognized us.
Well, Matthew, to me, these chefs' whites
can only mean one thing.
Looks like we could be cooking our lunch ourselves.
Now you will come with me.
I'm ready.
There are very few winners in Cannes,
you know, Matthew,
and an awful lot of losers.
We are in big trouble here.
I know we're in big trouble.
That's where I live.
I can't believe you can't even book a table.
Calm down, dear.
For you.
As our reputation precedes us.
We're going to apprentice the master,
helping him create a dish that echoes
the flavors and textures in Stéphane's calamari dish
back at the villa.
Now, where will you go in the kitchen?
We go back.
And by the end of it,
we should know what wines to take back to Jancis.
So,
we have the ingredients.
We start serious cooking.
Our calamari masterclass
starts with a quick game
I'm calling,
What exactly is that in that pot?
Sardines.
That's the dotty opry.
Red fish, exactly.
Calamari?
No.
What is it?
I don't know.
We're going to stick that in there, though.
I can't wait.
Turns out that is turmeric,
and together with fishy offcuts,
shallots, lemon zest, long pepper,
and a little bacon.
It's very hot.
We will be making a sauce
to accompany the dish we are having for lunch.
Are you ready?
This.
Okay.
How much?
Again, again, again.
It's so hot.
Excuse my language,
but yes, that's hot.
I wouldn't accuse him of being a baby.
What is surprising to me
One, two, three, four.
is that Christian looks like
he's adding a red wine to a sauce
which is going with fish.
Because tradition tells us
we should be knocking a white wine in there.
You need the red wine for the sauce.
Two Michelin stars good.
Don't argue.
You understand? Yes?
No, no, no.
Yes, yes, yes.
Lovely.
Oh, lots of wine.
It's going to be a great dish.
That will reduce very quickly with that heat.
After five minutes,
it's all starting to smell rather good, Mr. Good.
Smells great, doesn't it?
Oh, wow.
It's so good and strong.
It's lovely.
You understand? I do.
The red wine with the fish.
Now I do.
I would never have done that.
What a nice man.
I'm always expecting a chef to be like,
get out of my kitchen.
I was nervous.
So now we're going to have a red wine with that dish.
I know nothing.
I feel like I know nothing every day on this job.
Welcome to my world.
Unlike most commis chefs, however,
we are going to be allowed to enjoy our creation
in the Palme d'Or restaurant.
Hello.
Oh, look at that. Theatre.
That is the most amazing plate.
And look at those little fishies.
It smells divine. There's a lot gone into that.
And here, the courgette flour.
The sauce.
The sauce that we slaved over.
I didn't really.
Exacto.
That's beautiful.
Christian designed this festival of flavour
especially to help us understand
the types of wine we should be thinking about
for our fish course back at the villa.
And rather graciously,
his sommelier has picked out
three wines he thinks will work.
All, we've been assured,
are kissed with the fresh sea air.
To start,
Le Clos Saint-Joseph.
A bio-dynamic white blend
of rolle, semi-uniblanc,
and claret.
A mouthful in more ways than one.
Very citrusy.
It's so citrusy.
It feels like it's a wine
that is made for right here, right now.
Oui. Yes.
Oh, I love the crunch.
It is exquisite.
Oh, my God.
It's your work. It's not me.
Oh, it's beautiful.
But that cuts through it.
Lovely. Yeah.
Important point. Exactly.
My friend, I will go work.
Sorry, you have a lot of lunches to cook.
Thank you very much.
You are very nice guys.
God bless you.
Let's get involved with this.
Abbé de la Reine Saint-Honorat Rouge
is 100% Syrah,
made by a holy order of wine-loving
Cistercian monks on an island
just off the coast.
This is also the wine we use
to make Christiane's sauce.
God, it's powerful.
It's like you in Rome.
Easy, tiger.
But it works so well with that sauce.
Of course it does. It's made with it.
Now it's the little Saint-Pierre.
This is from the same place.
This is from the island off here.
This is a claret-chardonnay blend.
Not quite as citrusy.
It's interesting, though, isn't it?
Yeah.
God, this would blow Jantz's knickers off.
That's a sight.
Gold.
Well, it is the Palme d'Or, isn't it?
The Palme d'Or restaurant right here.
Yes, it is.
It's probably as close to a Palme d'Or
as I'm ever going to get.
As we'll ever get.
That's absolutely true.
No coincidence, you know.
There's no one here.
Having been inspired by a day
at the Palme d'Or in Cannes.
You'll need the red wine.
It's going to be a great dish.
We've each chosen a wine
that we think will match
Stéphane's squid dish.
I decided on the Saint-Honorat Rouge.
While I've gone for a white,
Le Clos Saint-Joseph,
because it's a fish course
and I'm a traditional kind of chap.
So, Matthew, you start.
Tell us about your wine, this white.
Well, I love it.
It's very citrusy, it's very crisp.
It's as crisp as your white shirt.
I didn't want to follow a red
with another red on the courses.
We're going to be in a hot environment.
Perhaps it'll be time to cool down before the main course.
Where is this made, Matthew?
This one? It's made at Le Clos Saint-Joseph.
Where was it?
Don't ask me that question.
It's made 43...
What I remember
is that it's made 43 kilometres from Nice.
But that's all I can remember.
But, James, yours comes from somewhere
more exotic.
There are a couple of little islands
just right off Cannes
and it's made by monks
there.
And I chose the red because of
the squid ink.
I wanted something that could cuddle up
to that squid ink.
And just spooning gently
on a Sunday morning.
So, for me,
it's a meal which is
already very rich.
With this fresh one,
it's OK for me.
I like the fact that you've chosen
a red that's very marine,
you know, surrounded by the sea.
That was part of my thinking.
I wanted something where you get the fish,
you get the wine that is made near
the fish and you can put the two of them together.
By monks.
On the other hand...
There's always another hand.
Yes, there is.
I am very much enjoying
Matthew's choice of the
white wine. And it's got that little chewiness
at the end, which is no bad thing
with this very textural
dish, which is superb, by the way.
They've both got
strong attributes.
But, my
final choice
and the one that is going
into the wine show
basket is
Matthew's white wine.
Well played.
And I knew you were going to have
a strong opinion.
Honestly, it's 50-50, isn't it?
From our glorious French bolt hole,
we're heading back to Blighty,
where no matter if it's cigars or shotguns,
shirts or shoes, possibly a haircut,
there's one place in every gentleman and lady's address book.
London's St James's.
It's home to some of the most
exclusive shops in the world,
which makes you wonder what our furry little friend
Matthew Rees is doing here.
How about a shave and everything?
It's also home to
Berry Brothers and Rudd.
They've been on this site since the 17th
century, where they've
welcomed wine lovers however deep
or shallow
their pockets may be.
But I'm not just here for wine.
Well, I am hoping for
a glass of something.
I'm here to find out about my favourite thing.
Gadgets.
We're on the march. We're mobile. We're on the hoof.
We are. We're moving. We're taking wine
with us. Thankfully.
Every time you think you've discovered a new thing,
you discover that people have been doing it for ages.
Like what, Joe? Human ingenuity.
Mike, how do you go and take wine when you're
on your way out to
well, potentially a festival
or a party or a pilgrimage?
A bull scrotum.
It's not a bull scrotum.
No, it's a pilgrim bottle. Can you just
see here and here?
Yes, it's where your eyes go.
You put the string through there
to do a loop so you can
have it and you walk along
about your person and you've got water
or more ideally wine.
And so as a pilgrim,
have a bit of a drink on the way.
It's what got them through. Suddenly you start thinking
maybe going on a pilgrimage isn't such a bad
idea at all. No. That bottle
will travel. So if we were to take
that. Yes, and party.
And party. Yes, fill it with
Technologically, it's no different
to a bagnum.
This is a well made, beautiful
elegant gamay. In a bag.
But is it decent plonk?
It is. It really is. Absolutely.
Put it to the test. Stick your money
where your mouth is. Oh my
God. Like that.
And another. Now what's the lining
of this bag and does that affect the taste of the wine?
I'm not going to go into it in too much
detail. It can get a little bit techy.
But the technology has changed massively.
Sorry, yes. It used to be just
a piece of tin foil which would crack
sometimes. Now we've got much more
interesting polymer linings which do
stop oxygen from getting through.
That was my greatest concern. Right, here we go.
Cheers. Cheers. Chin chin.
It's a little gamey. It's gamay.
Sorry, that's right. Yes.
It's meant to be crunchy,
slightly bitter cherries. It's not bad.
It's very cherry though. It's very good, isn't it?
Yeah, it is, considering it came in a bag.
I think it's absolutely brilliant stuff.
If that came out of a bottle, you'd be going,
that's really nice. Put it in the fridge
a little bit. Gamay's good, just ever so slightly chilled.
Is it? Yeah, it is. That's a top tip for the day.
It's not got an awful lot of tannins, so it's
chillable reds this season.
Is that the rule for chilling reds?
The less tannins, the better the chill?
Yeah, absolutely. You know, people have
gone over the idea that
only good wine ever comes in
bottles, because the technology's changed.
I'll never get over that. This is Malbec,
one serving, just one glass,
and you rip off the top,
pour it in. It's like tomato ketchup sachet
basically, full of Malbec. Yeah, pretty much.
Brilliant. Cans.
Cans is big stuff now. This is
Pinot Grigio. Sparkling
Pinot in a can. Sparkling in a can.
Try my Pinot. Try my Pinot.
What do you think about this? Well,
it's not really for me, but no, no, not
the target market. This isn't for
crusty old duffers like me
with the tag pin. This is for younger,
more... Sparkling Pinot Grigio,
on-the-go straw, summer festival.
It's very big in the United States at the moment.
So which one is your favourite,
do you think? I think the Gamie Gamie,
because that's a bit of a
mean tease. It's like a
one-hit wonder. That's just a swallow, isn't it?
And that doesn't make a summer. I'll have a Magnum,
please, Bob. The P.I.
You can have that. You're having that, then? Yes.
The Magnum P.I. for me. You have that.
Well, I'm a traditional, old-fashioned kind of guy.
I'm going to have this, because I like my wine
to taste of leather.
Among other things. Chin-chin. Chin-chin.
Oh, you great global adventurer,
you. Yes. Where
are you taking us this time?
To California, but to some
of the slightly lesser, well-known
bits of the California wine industry.
Such as where? Well, everybody
knows Napa, and we do...
I say we, Amelia and I,
we did go to the Napa Valley, but what is
fascinating is the
other areas. For instance, I'm going to pour you a
glass of wine here. This is Chronic
Cellars, Purple Paradise, from
Paso Robles. Wow. Chronic
Cellars? Chronic Cellars. And it has the most amazing
label. That's a cracking name. Yes.
Now, this is a juicy,
fruity blend of Zinfandel
and Grenache and Petit Syrah.
That sort of thing. But it is
probably the fastest-growing wine region in
California, yet people are finding
it harder and harder to find pickers.
The industry was reliant on Mexicans
who used to come. It's more difficult to work
in America, as I'm sure you may even
discover yourselves on occasion. So we went
to investigate some of the more
creative ways that people
are filling that gap. Okay.
I can't wait to see what this is about.
So, before they get in the back of a Popo car,
we're going to see how Joe and
Amelia got on at one of Napa Valley's more
eccentric winemakers.
If I mention California wine,
your mind might wonder,
here's the beautiful and world-famous
Napa Valley.
Napa is a 30-mile-long,
$50 billion-a-year industry
of some of the world's most
valuable wine businesses.
Not only is Napa Valley home to some
of its most iconic producers,
it's become a magnet for high-spending
tourists. No, I can't do that.
Many wineries throw open their doors
to visitors like me and Amelia.
Some, like Raymond, with its
burlesque-themed crystal cellar,
mannequins,
chandeliers,
even let you play winemaker
for the day.
Shall we get on with it? Oh, yeah, sure. Come on, then.
Chunk of Merlot in there.
Great wines and novel experiences
like this,
all add up to make
Napa one of the most magical wine destinations
in the world.
But behind the walls of the magic
kingdom, there's another side to
California wine. Issues like
drought, traffic,
sustainability all challenge
winemakers. But there's one
issue that threatens their very
existence.
In California, a high percentage of
agricultural workers are undocumented
migrants. The allure
of working on marijuana plantations
where the pay is better and the job
much easier has created a
serious labor shortage.
While Napa has the wealth and often the machinery
to ride out this shortage,
the problem is particularly acute
in the less well-known wine regions like
Mendocino County. Family-run
Barra Winery in Redwood has been
feeling the effects. But owner
Martha Barra has found a solution
with a little help from
the law in the form of Sheriff
Tom Ullman.
Hello, Tom. Hello.
Together, they've pioneered a scheme
to use prisoners from the county jail
to work in her vineyard.
How did this come together, this thing
of you as a sheriff and then
Martha as a wine producer? What was the
genesis of that? So, we were
talking over a glass of wine
and I said,
Martha, listen, it's almost time
for the grapes to be
picked. Why don't we,
as in the sheriff's office, supply
you with a dozen pickers.
You pay them a fair
wage and that
money will go to them and their families
and at the end of
the picking season, they'll have
money, you'll have your grapes picked
and maybe
it'll work out to where these guys are not going to come back
to jail. And the first year
we started as a whim and it was
a trial year, saying, alright, Martha,
if this works, we might try it again.
If it doesn't work, we'll
wash our hands of it and say, boy, that was
a dumb idea.
But it has worked
so good that
I now have three other sheriffs
who are doing, this
year will be their first year doing the exact same thing.
No way. Cool. What's your favorite wine
from Mendocino?
The
darker, the better.
Really and truly. If you can hold it
up to the sun and you can't see
the sun through the bottle, that's a
perfect red wine right there.
So this is Martha's winery. Here we are.
Fantastic. Over the
past 20 years, as Californian
wine has grown in popularity,
the 175-acre
Barra estate has gone from producing
200 to 20,000
cases a year. Without
a ready supply of workers, there's no way
Martha could grow her business.
But I have to ask, surely
it's a massive risk taking on convicted
prisoners. Did you ever
have a distaste about taking
prisoners, people who've broken the law
and having them in your vineyard?
You know, I trusted the sheriff
to vet these people
and there are 300 people
in the jail and when he
can only send us four or
six, that tells me they have
gone through a rigorous process
to be able to do this
and it's an honor for them to
do that. So you feel safe?
I feel safe and I know that they're not
going to leave because
they pay $11 a day
for little ankle bracelets that's
GPS controlled and
they're not going to do anything because
they want out. They don't want
to twiddle their thumbs during the day
sitting in jail, so
I felt very safe with those
people. Right now
it's suckering season, apart from harvest
one of the busiest times of the year
and to cope with the workload, Martha's
drafted in extra labor from the prison
to help. How are you doing?
Good to meet you, I'm Preston.
Nice to meet you, Preston. Great to meet you too.
Getting stuck in here. Oh man,
yeah, just picking off the
sucklings, the little sucker branches.
Is this your first time working in a vineyard? It is.
What kind of skills are you learning, do you think?
Learning how to take off these
sucklings. This is
the spur and on the
spur, this is where your new buds
and your new blossoms are coming about
and so I'm taking off the
smaller ones that are less important so that
these more established ones have a chance to
really produce some fruit. So something like up
here, this fellow can come off.
That would need to go, but generally, you know, we're
leaving two to three. What did you have to do to
get on the program to come to the vineyard?
Well, like I said, I've been
in jail for 17 months now and I've
not been in a lick of trouble or nothing
like that and I feel like
I'm pretty trustworthy. Out here,
this is nice and free and
open. Is there not a temptation just to leg
it? If I were to
do something foolish like that, I'd be setting myself
back to the beginning. I'm enjoying
myself. I've even told them if they need a helping
hand in the future to come and get me.
In fact, rather
than legging it, Joe, some
like Jaime have come back to work at
Martha's full time.
We're going into jail and
coming out. I thought when I was coming out
I wasn't going to have any opportunities. I was
kind of down in the rut.
You know what I mean? I was just
I was on the streets and then when she gave me
the opportunity to work, I was just like, this is what
I want to do. I don't want to keep doing circles
and going back to jail. And do you think she'll
hire more people full time?
Definitely, just because when harvest
season comes around, there's a lot of workers that
just go just to go
work with the weed. So it's like
there's so much work to do out here with
all these grapes.
What's it like coming out for the day?
Wonderful, wonderful.
I mean, it feels like you're free almost.
It's hot and it's hard work
but if you can deal with that, you feel
like you've accomplished something at the end of the day, that's for
sure.
How important is the money? Because you're paid for this.
Really? I'd do it for free, you know.
I'd pay to come out and do this,
you know.
This was a program that was kind of forced on
you. You had to do it economically.
But you've left the Most Amazing Legacy
chatting to those guys. How do you feel
when you look at what you've achieved?
It delights me to see them
so ready to come to work
in the mornings and be happy
to be out and so appreciative
that we're giving them that
opportunity. And does that make me feel
good? When I sign their check,
I feel very good.
Tom and Martha's
novel program could one day
be the blueprint for producers across
the whole of California.
I can't see why not.
It's win-win for the vineyards and the
prisoners.
One thing's for sure, I'll never look
at a bottle of Mendocino wine
in quite the same way again.
Who's the most responsible out of you two?
Do you think?
This is a Sheriff's badge.
Sheriff Mendocino.
That is from Sheriff Tom.
So you can go and pin that on.
Sheriff Tom did reassure me that that
doesn't give you any powers of arrest.
I am now going to pour you one of the wines
where the vineyards
are tended by the prisoners.
Look at the color of that.
This is a Petit Syrah. Have a go.
So this is from
Barra Mendocino, Petit Syrah.
2014.
Wow. Mendocino is
great value winemaking.
It's quite tannic.
Yes, it is.
But I like that. I've always been a fan of that.
You love that, don't you?
You met a lot of those guys who were picking those grapes.
How did you feel they were?
Were they doing it for the camera?
Absolutely not.
We spoke a long time off camera as well.
We talked about all sorts of things.
One of them was explaining
he said one of the nice things about being able to
earn money, he doesn't have children,
he doesn't have a partner, although many of the
guys did, but he said he
has seven dogs back
at his home. He now can send the money
so his friend can go and buy dog food for him
to be able to feed his dogs, and he's absolutely devoted
to these dogs.
People will want to ask us questions, I am sure,
about wine from California,
which is hugely popular, and
about the stories behind these wines.
We have all that information
on the Wineshow website, so please
do visit today.
Well, we've come to the end of another Wineshow.
Please join us again next time.
We'll be delighted to have your company.
Thank you and goodbye.
