Namibie - Windhoek - Tsumeb - Kalahari - Des trains pas comme les autres - Documentaire

In Namibia, trains are so beautiful that one would think they were in a movie. Sublime, sublime. It's even hypnotizing. Here, nothing can stop the train, not even the desert. I put my hands like this because I hate sand in my eyes and I don't know how you do it. And yet, if you're not afraid of sand, Namibia offers you the most beautiful of shows. There are not many places like this on the planet. It's the paradise of animals and unexpected traditions. To sell a large sand bath. To go hunting with the Bushmen. It's crazy, I can't see anything. And finally discover when the frog gets bigger than the beef. The train is not bad. Namibia is not really a place where you go every day. Trains are rather rare there. Only a few disappearing lines take travelers. As soon as I arrive, I feel that my trip on the rails is more about safari than public transport. What's crazy here is that when you go to the station, there is not a single traveler, you don't see anyone. On the other hand, there are giraffes. Giraffes that look at you. This is really my favorite station. In fact, there is nothing, nothing, nothing. Already, I'm not even sure it's really the station. But I think because there is a sign over there with a name of the place. Lost in the bushes. And there is only noise of animals. No passengers, no one, nothing. And that, that's the top of the station. It changes from the Lyon station at least. There is someone there. Nice to meet you. Of course, the train will stop. Are you sure? It always stops here, don't worry. But it's a bit ... What time should this train pass? Normally it arrives between 7 and 8 o'clock. But today he is late. The train must arrive between 7 and 8 o'clock. But we don't know more precisely. No. The train never arrives at a precise time. Let's say it's variable. And there it is almost 8 o'clock. So there he is not really late yet. That's it. Most of the time he arrives between 7 and 8 o'clock. Sometimes he is very late. It depends. You should know that here the trains do not only carry passengers. In fact, there is a lot of goods, freight wagons, it's complicated. And in the middle a wagon or two for the passengers. That's how it works here. So if there are more things to load, it delays the train? Exactly. If there is more goods to load, it will necessarily delay our train. We just have to wait. And isn't it dangerous to wait here? Because there are wild animals everywhere. I think there were one or two accidents with rhinos. Well, little rhinos. Rhinos? Yes, the little ones. Here? Yes, they are called Bosphorus. You are telling me that we are waiting for a train that will arrive God knows when to a place where rhinos can pass. There are also lions there. There are lions? Yes, but they are further away. They never come here. Do not worry. The train will arrive. It will take us. There is no problem. Really? Yes. And lions are generally afraid of red, right? I hope so. And if they are afraid of that, I will throw them in the face and I will run away. Well, we're good here. Is it long? Yes. Is it the train? Yes. It's magical, these little moments, because we are just happy to hear a big diesel coming. Magnificent. It's 8.30. And it's faster than passengers. Because there are 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and about 9 9 wagons and one passenger car. Exactly. Today there is only one passenger car. Hello. That's it, we're off. A lot of success, this train. Who takes the train in general? Most of the time, it's young people, students and especially mothers with their children or people who do not have a car. Why? Because here, traveling by car is very dangerous. People drive fast and badly. There are a lot of accidents. The train is safer. No danger. We will arrive at our destination. I am on the South-North line which joins the capital of the country, Windhoek. And I will quickly discover that in Namibia, the exceptional thing is every day that nature is omnipresent. It's crazy to be able to do a safari by train. Because we see the animals of the train and that's incredible. Animals are simply part of everyday life. Sometimes the hyenas, sometimes the giraffes, the lions, the hairless antelopes and very often the baboons. The baboons who don't always have a good reputation. Here, when we talk about baboons, it's often by calling them dirty thieves, more or less aggressive. I heard that not far from the capital, there was a sanctuary for them. I decided to get off the train to go see this place full of orphan baboons. There would be there a man who cherishes them and who is like a father to them. Excuse me. I'm going there. Hello. Can I come? Yes, you can come. Are they not dangerous? No, they are not dangerous. They are small. Really? I've always been told that baboons were not very nice. If they like you, fine. Before? How do you know if they like you or not? If you stay close to me, they won't do anything to you. And I feel that they will appreciate you. They are curious. They will like me? Yes. How do I say hello? Look at this one. He came to see you. You do like this to say hello. A little noise with your mouth to call them. He answered. Did he do the same? Yes, a baboon answered me. Come on. Let's swim. Come on, let's swim. Swim, swim. Come on, you too. Swim. Do they like to swim? Yes. Look at this one. He loves water. He's a real swimmer. But look at the other one. He's a real swimmer. They are like us. But he thinks it's too cold. This one is a real swimmer. It totally changes my image of baboons. They are in my back. What are they doing? They are licking my pants. What are you looking for? There's no money. She's very curious. Yes. Hello. This is Donzi. I introduce you to Donzi. That means she's happy. I still have a little trouble. I still have a little trouble understanding the baboon. It's rare to see that. I've never seen someone so close to a baboon without any aggressiveness. It's very rare. These baboons and I, we are very close. I've known them since they were babies. Most of them have lost their mother. We adopted them, in a way. There are a lot of baboons in Namibia? Yes. Everywhere. There are everywhere. When you're driving, you see a lot along the roads. Really? Yes. Do Namibians like baboons or not? No, people don't like baboons. Why? Baboons often come near houses and sometimes they go through a window and turn around. They search, they look for food. There can be a lot of damage. Really? Yes. So, are there people who hunt them, or who kill them, or who do everything to avoid them? Yes, unfortunately, we find baboons who have been killed. It happens every day. People are over-excited. Baboons have a bad reputation. And it can end badly. But we are here to help them and love them. What did you find? Is there food? I haven't done this for a long time, so it's an opportunity. Did you find anything? No. What I love is the hands. It's incredible. It's indescribable. I would like to thank you for this beautiful moment. It was a very quiet moment. Thank you very much. You're welcome. Namibia is a great country. It extends to the surface of France plus that of the United Kingdom, but with only a little more than two million inhabitants, that is, the population of the Lion agglomeration. You might as well say that there is room. And I really want to go and see what the capital, Windhoek, It's quick. A few streets without a particular hideout. A church that reminds me that Namibia was a German colony for a long time. I feel that it is not in Windhoek that this country will show me what it has best. So I go to the station where the signs are always written in Gothic. I take the train again and not just any train, this time, I know I should take it full eyes. There are not many countries in the world where you can do this. Like this. Pass your head and have a warm air that caresses your face like this. We forgot it, but it's very pleasant. And fortunately it's pleasant because nine hours of train are waiting for me. Nine hours, more or less, to reach the west of the country. The train in Namibia is a bit complicated. The schedules are often at night or very early in the morning. And then it's at 5 or 8 o'clock. You have to be cool, you have to be patient. But if there is one line, one single line to do and that deserves to wait even a very long time, it's this one. It's the line that goes through the sands and dunes of the oldest desert in the world. And it's just magnificent. The Namibian desert. In Nama language, it means the country where there is nothing. It's sublime, sublime. It's even hypnotizing. It's still extraordinary to be able to live in the desert like this. It's a pure desert. There is only sand and dunes, no roads, nothing. It's incredible to see the book by train. Because normally it's a 4x4 or a camel. It's a hell of a trip. The show is incredible by train. I don't come back, I'm hypnotized. Really? Yes. I'm so used to this scenery, it doesn't affect me anymore. I come from the coast, I see it every day. So for you, it's everyday, nothing special? No, nothing. It's banal, very banal. That's what I love about travelling. It's the extraordinary for one and not the fantastic for the other. So if for you it's banal, what would you dream of seeing from a train as a kind of landscape? The Mediterranean coast. Green, green everywhere and water. Not sea water, but fresh water. And so if you see from a train a green landscape with cows, for example, would that be fantastic for you? It would be extraordinary. It would be fantastic. I would love to see that. I feel like we're slowing down. It's good to be able to look at the landscape. I think we're stopping here. Do you know why we're stopping in the middle of the desert like this? There must be a problem with the sand. The train must stop to be able to sand the rails. It happens. So the train stops regularly so that the rails are cleaned? Yes, and it can take a while. I'm going to check. Hello. What's going on? It's stuck. With this wind, there's too much sand. Is there a lot of sand? Way too much. We won't go through, but we'll take care of it. I'm going to check. They're crazy. It's true that there's wind and it's the wind that brings the sand. Hello. How are you? Very well, thank you. You have a lot of work. Hello. All this is enough to block the train? Yes, it can even make it derail. It can block everything. That's why we're removing the sand. Why is there sand all of a sudden? It's the desert wind that brings the sand from the dunes. When it accumulates like this, it ends up blocking the tracks. What I don't understand is where do you come from? We're contacted by the radio to tell us where the sand is. For example, at kilometre 10, 20 or 100 and we go there to do our job. So you're waiting somewhere. I imagine you have a base and you're ready to jump 24 hours a day? Normally, we do it the day before to maintain it. But if there's a lot of wind like today or a storm, you have to constantly monitor the course and intervene everywhere. I put my hands like this because I think... I don't know how you do it. You must feel pain often. Do you have something to remove the sand in your eyes? No, it's normal for us. You know, we do this job every day. And when you're used to it, tears flow and you clean your eyes easily. Really? It doesn't bother us. I hate it. Sand in the eyes is my terror. You know, it's a rather difficult job. It's not easy. It's not a job for everyone. You have to bear the heat, all this sand. It's not easy. But someone has to do it, right? You're really brave. Thank you very much. I admire you because it can't be fun every day. You're great. Thank you very much. Goodbye. Oh, the sand! Good luck. The sand. The sand is endless. My journey suddenly takes another dimension. Namibia is the country of incredible deserts, of thousands of dunes, some of which can reach a height of 250 meters and a length of 30 kilometers. And sometimes, the iron contained in the sand oxidizes. It rusts, and Namibia changes color. It takes ocher tones, like in the region of Saussusley. What a place! What a place, but really extraordinary. It's fabulous. There aren't many places like this on the planet. With the feeling of walking on Mars. In fact, it's not lunar, it's Martian. In fact, it's not Mars. It's a planet. It's an unknown planet. Another planet made only of sand, clay and dead trees. It's like a work of art. You know, it's part of these rare places where you suddenly have this little worry that tells you, I'm not going to be able to fully appreciate it. I need time, I need to stay here for days. To give birth to a place like this, you need a crazy story. In fact, this ground that's a little white is the bottom of an old river that flowed there a long time ago and was sometimes very small and sometimes very large. And one day, the dunes blocked the river so it dried up and the clay remained and the trees died. And they're still there because it's very dry so they don't rot. Everything is still and beautiful. It's impossible. It's a mirage. There's someone running over there running at 40 degrees and in the sand. Hello, can I stop you for a while? Can I stop you for a while? Yes. Are you okay? Yes, I'm fine. Do you feel good? I'm fine. You must be crazy to run in this heat in the sand. I'm training, that's all. I'm training for a marathon. But why are you running in the heat and in the sand? It's super hard in the sand. It makes my legs stronger. It makes my legs stronger and my heart stronger and it keeps you in good shape. It's crazy. Can I ask your age? I'm 49. 49? Yes. So if you have to run in the sun and in the sand at 40 degrees to stay young, I wonder if I'd rather look a little older. It's horrible. It seems horrible to me what you're doing. No, it's easy. Not for you? For me? For me it's not easy, it's impossible. It's impossible? Impossible. So you're not strong enough. No. Women are much more resistant than men. Are you going to leave now? Yes, I have to go. Again? Yes. How long will you run again? I will run for another hour. Welcome. Well, you're brave. Thank you. Bye bye. It's often said that in the desert, there is nothing. It's not quite true. Here in Namibia, there is magic. I'm going to try to take the train again, further north. There is a freight line there that starts from the city of Tsumeb, which was supposed to extend to Angola, but the project didn't go all the way. Today it only works on a small section. And here again, arriving at the station, one might think that there is nothing. Hello. In fact, Namibian stations are like that. It's the opposite of what one imagines of an African station, with people running everywhere, cake sellers. It's one or two wagons of passengers lost in a freight train, and two or three passengers waiting. Hello. Morning. How are you? Are you going to travel? Yes. It's very quiet, isn't it? Yes, it's quiet. And do you know what time it will leave? The train is supposed to leave at 9 o'clock. It is supposed? Yes. But now it is 9.30. They are late. As you can see, the locomotive is not there. Ah yes, there is no locomotive, it's true. Hello. I heard you. I think they are preparing the wagons. And how long will it take? I heard that the train will leave at 10 o'clock. But it can still change. What must they do with the train? They are preparing new wagons for the freight. And they are going to hang them there. Come with me, I'll show you. Look, there is the locomotive there. And the wagons. But what do we transport? Because there is much more freight than passengers. So what do we transport with us? What is there? These are chemical products. They mix it with other products for the mines. Is it dangerous as a product? Read on it. It says danger. Ah yes, it's written on it. These products are very dangerous. So if there is an accident between the passengers and this product ... Don't talk about misfortune. I'd rather not think about it. It's an adventure, the freight in Namibia. It's an adventure in itself. In fact, it should not be seen as a way to move, but as an experience. That's it. We are in the train. The advantage is that there is room. French. Ah, French. If you say Bon Voyage, what does it mean? Bon Voyage. I've heard that before. But what does it mean? Bon Voyage means ... Have a nice trip. Ah, OK. Bon Voyage. I have a question for you. Your trains in France, are they like our trains? Like this one? Or are they faster? Some are very fast. Some go at more than 300 km per hour. And so there, you sit in the train, and the moment after you have arrived. Yes. Is it nice? No. How can you enjoy the trip? It's too fast. What's the point of traveling like that? It's too fast. You know what? I agree with you. That's what I love about Namibia. We are three in the train, and we have a great time. Yes. That's how we are here. We are in Namibia. But the whites here, you know, they are not like you. They don't mix with us. When there are blacks, they don't mix with us. Yes. So I'm the first white to sit next to you? Yes. Really? Yes, it's true. It's the first time. It's true. Why? Because of the color. The color of the skin. That's why. You are white, I'm black. Why can't we mix? So what? Why? But the whites of Namibia or the whites of Europe? Those of Namibia. The whites of Europe, they are different. They are not afraid of each other. They mix. Those who come from Europe. But those from here, no. Impossible. That's how it is. On this subject, my travel companion will not go any further. No doubt the desire that I keep only beautiful memories of Namibia. Bye-bye. Hope to see you soon. Have a good trip. Have a good time. I am now in a burning region. A landscape that seems endless. Always similar. Without knowing it, I approach the Kalahari desert. Sand. A lot of sand. But also green. Because in this region it rains sometimes and in depth the sand can remain wet. Always this impression of total solitude. But always somewhere. Something. Someone. There is life there. If I'm not completely elsewhere. Hi you. And in the middle of this elsewhere, I have an appointment with a certain Caché. Because tomorrow morning, for the village, it's hunting day. Hello. Do you know where Caché is? Where is Caché? There? OK. Thank you. Caché! There is someone for you. Caché? Hello. What an incredible place. Hello. Hello everyone. For me it's a crazy place. Completely lost. In the mouth. In the sand. Far from everything. For me it's incredible. Welcome. So we're still going hunting tomorrow? Yes. The hunters are just there, preparing their arrows. You see, they are sitting there around the fire. They are preparing the hunt for tomorrow. Can we go see them? Yes, of course. Follow me. Hello Caché. How are you? Are these the arrows for tomorrow? Yes, these are the arrows for tomorrow. Most of the arrows have poison. For example, this one, if you look closely, there is poison from here to there. Why don't you put poison on the arrow, on the metal end, not on the second part? You never put poison on the tip. It's too dangerous. When you carry arrows, you put them there. So if you're not careful, you can hurt your arm. OK, it's for safety. Yes. But why do you make poisoned arrows and not directly big arrows that go into the animal, injure it and kill it? We are not strong enough to use big arrows. We have very small horns. We are not strong enough for that. OK. But you are big and strong. You have big arms. Yes, but I'm very lazy. So I'm like you, I prefer small arrows. I'm sure you'll be strong enough. So what are we going to hunt tomorrow? We'll see what we find. Probably porcupine. Porcupine? Do you hunt porcupine? Yes, it's very good. I love it. Especially the skin, it's delicious. I've learned something. The skin of porcupine is very good. Night falls on the village. Here we go to bed with the sun. Anyway, you have to get up early to go hunting before the heat. In this environment, which is called here, I am in the world of the men of the bush, the Bushmen. The Bushmen would be the oldest inhabitants of Australia. Traditionally, they do neither farming nor agriculture. And with the pygmies, they are the last representatives of the civilization of archer hunters in Africa. To be able to spend a few hours with them is almost unreal for me. There are tracks there. Lots of tracks. It's a lion, he passed through there. A lion? But it's huge, it has very big legs. Yes, very big. It's huge. It's an adult. Is it dangerous to be there? Let's say it's never without risk. But don't worry, the tracks are not fresh. We've been walking for three hours. It's still early, but it's already more than 35 degrees. And when the heat rises, the bush becomes rarer. But if there is an animal to hunt, it will see us coming, it will hear us, won't it? The small antelopes can't see us. In this part of the bush, the grass is too high. Watch out, get down! I don't see anything, I don't see anything. Don't make any noise. There is a small antelope, right in front of us. She doesn't see us, but she has fine eyes. I didn't see anything. I don't see anything. I don't see anything at all. No, we missed her. We missed her. She left very quickly on the other side. She's far away now. We won't see her again. But it seems impossible, because she's far away, we can't see her. It's crazy. How long does it take you to catch an animal like that? They come to hunt us for three or four days, when we're in the bush. Three or four days for one animal? Yes, yes. OK. We'll keep going this way. Maybe we'll have more luck. Something tells me that the day will be long, long and hot. To be able to follow the Bushmen for four days, I believe that you have to be a Bushman. Let me introduce you to a Bushman who's hot. A Bushman who's hot. That's true. Because here, in the bush, you can't see, but it's 50 degrees. We can't stand it. There's no water, and a little shadow like that, it's super rare, because it's just brush, it makes a bad shadow. Let's take a break. It feels good. What I love is the way you speak, because in your language there are... His name is Unta. Unta. So it's an extra sound. Unta. These sounds are written, there's a letter for the... We write it with two lines. Two lines? Yes, two lines. Vertically? Like that. And we pronounce... Do. because they're hiding, but we can hear them. They do like this. You're doing a good job with the frog. It's in the marsh, that's for sure. There are lots of footprints. We'll find some in the water. We don't like the water, there are weird animals. You can't see anything down there. Aren't you afraid of something biting your feet? No, we're used to it. I knew it, I've got one. It's huge! She's beautiful with her little legs and her swollen yellow belly. It's huge! It doesn't move much. She doesn't move, she's afraid. She's not that big. Look, she's completely deflated. She was deflated because she was angry? Yes, when she's afraid, she deflates to look bigger and scare people. What are you going to do with it? Is it for dinner tonight? Yes, at least we don't become frogs. Is it good? Do you like frogs? We're going to eat it. It's a mixture of chicken and fish. As soon as the frog comes out, it rains. Shall we film? Let's go to the village? There we go, we'll have a frog. Back in the village with our meagre loot, the frog goes to the pan. Fortunately, there's more than enough to eat. And while it's cooking, the whole village is on fire. Thank you for letting me experience all this, because these are beautiful moments. Thank you. We're glad you came to see us, to share these moments with us. It makes us smile. What I love about you is that you're always laughing, always talking to each other. And whatever happens, it's light. There's something light about you. We're happy. Even if, as you've seen, we're just living. We don't own anything, but we have everything. We have nature, we have the bush with us. And when something goes wrong, the solution is always in the bush. Nature is there to help us. Thank you very much. Thank you. I don't know how to say it here. Thank you. Namibia is an incredible country. For me, it's one of the most beautiful countries in the world. Here, in this arid, sublime nature, man has made himself a very small place, apart, modest. In density, Namibia is the second least populated country in the world. But it is often where there is almost nothing that the emotions are infinite.