Cambodge, la perle de L'Asie - Temple - Culture khmère - Documentaire voyage - AMP

Whether it's the lure of its legendary temples or its heavenly beaches, Cambodia has a wealth of treasures and the best way to unveil its mysteries is by going off the beaten track. A land steeped in ritual and belief, the country has veered towards modernity as demonstrated by its capital, Phnom Penh. But away from the frenzy of the city, its inhabitants have been able to preserve the richness of their natural and artistic heritage, their know-how, and ancestral cultural traditions. Cambodian nestles between Thailand and Vietnam, two countries that were part of the Khmer Empire. Our journey begins in Siem Reap, home to the legendary Angkor Wat. Angkor was capital of the Khmer Empire from 802 to 1432. At its height, it was home to a million inhabitants. The hundreds of temples that still exist today only represent the sacred section of the ancient city. The wooden palaces and buildings disappeared long ago. The Khmer kings instigated the cult of the god-king, the Devarajan. They were also relentless builders. The temple complex of Angkor Wat symbolizes the pinnacle of Khmer civilization. It has become Cambodia's heart and soul. The building of the monument required 300,000 workers and 6,000 elephants. The people of Cambodia are very attached to this site. Some have no hesitation in hiring traditional costume to pose for photos in front of the temple. The last wall before reaching the heart of the temple is covered in 800 meters of bas-reliefs. They depict scenes from Indian sagas, the war exploits of King Suryavarman II. The temple has a labyrinth of galleries, some of which once housed hundreds of statues. Many of these were stolen during the most recent wars. Like other mountain temples in the province, Angkor Wat is a miniature replica of the cosmos. The central tower represents Mount Meru, axis of the world and home to the gods. The continents are represented by the lower courtyards and the oceans by the moats. The steep steps symbolize the effort required to reach divinity. The central tower, over 65 meters high, gives the place its glorious unity. Several areas are undergoing restoration. Nevertheless, the stonework and laterites have endured numerous centuries soaked by powerful monsoons. The city remains an active spiritual center. At the rear of the temple, close to the east face, a stupa houses the tomb of a holy man. The entire village where he was from is here to pay him tribute. Burning incense allows the faithful to establish a link between the earth and the heavens. This religious ritual takes place as much at home on the ancestral altar as in the temples and pagodas. The perfume it gives off is supposed to attract the god or spirit's attention and offer it prayers. In the evenings of the full moon, Siem Reap's temples come alive with candles and prayers. At the turn of the 20th century, the French school of the Far East was allowed to begin the first digs at the Angkor site. The architectural influence of the colonists can still be found in the streets of Siem Reap. Away from the center, artist Lim Mui Thiem has created a vast space entirely dedicated to Khmer art. After studying art in France, he returned to Cambodia in 1994 and traveled around the country. What I wanted above all was to get to know and learn about my country's culture by traveling, talking to villages in the most remote areas of the country. It was through the medium of objects and ambiances, if you like, of their habitat that helped me to better understand the culture. He also exhibits his own creations, very largely inspired by Khmer culture. It was mainly the awareness that there was a huge cultural and artistic void in the country after years of war. And with my French technical and artistic background, I quickly developed this idea that we should organize something to give the youngsters a grounding in this cultural sector, which for me is essential because we're not far from Angkor, so the link seemed quite obvious. Among the traditions he has tried to preserve, the art of lacquering holds an important place. The technique is used not only to decorate, but to protect wooden artifacts. The idea was to use the forms and work out how to transform and adapt them into a more contemporary context. After all, I was educated in France, so this contemporary vision has been very present. It was also a matter of understanding, feeling, and assimilating, and then finding possible creative pathways in this Cambodia, which has been so bruised by the war. The ingenuity of the city of Angkor's creators is also evident in the building of a sophisticated hydraulic network. Water here is omnipresent. Nowadays, some of the moats are congested by invasive plants that have to be ripped out and disposed of. At the same time, in some places, people try to replace them with water lilies, which are very popular as offerings for religious ceremonies. About 10 minutes' drive from Angkor Wat, an impressive bridge leads to Angkor Thom. Lined with sculptures, it represents the mythical battle between the 54 gods and the 54 demons. It is easy to recognize which side is good and which side is evil. Angkor Thom was the last capital of the Khmer Empire. The site covers some nine square kilometers. Its heart is Bayon. It is the incarnation of Hinduism's transition to Mahayana Buddhism. And is nicknamed the Temple of Faces, with its 54 towers adorned with 216 smiling faces. Approaching the location reveals its splendor. Like many others, this building was completely buried in the jungle. It took time for researchers to understand that this was the center of the city of Angkor Thom. Magnificent sculptures cover the walls of the first two levels. They depict scenes of everyday 12th century life as well as great battles. Not far away and still hidden by the vegetation, Ta Prohm is intriguing. It has been completely swallowed by the jungle, a reminder of its remarkable conquest and domination over stoke. It required infinite patience to release the temples and free them from the grasp of centuries-old trees. Some of them, however, have been preserved as they now ensure the stability of the structures and are an integral part of these incredible vestiges. Several teams of archaeologists are currently working to renovate and restore the various towers and courtyards that make up the compound. It's little surprise that such a place has served as a backdrop for several big adventure films. Just an hour's drive from Siem Reap, we reach the village of Bos Thom and the Kulin Elephant Forest, where Franco-Cambodian David Pio has created a sanctuary for elephants. Once exploited in the name of tourism, they now live freely in a huge, protected, unspoiled space. Here we have 11 elephants and 445 hectares of protected forest, where they live freely. And they're free to have the natural and social behaviors that they're supposed to have. On average, an elephant eats 200 to 300 kilos of vegetation per day, which is quite damaging to the environment. Despite the size of the park, managing the 445-hectare space requires careful planning. It involves everything that constitutes a healthy life for an elephant, the promotion of their social behavior, their mental well-being, their health. We take care of their stomach aches, their scratches, everything, to ensure that they can live for as long as possible. Cambodia still has a population of between 300 and 600 wild elephants, living in the provinces bordering Vietnam and Laos. The significant deforestation that the country is currently undergoing is not going to help matters. One of the elephants' favorite moments has to be their personal shower time, where they can drink the 60 liters of water they need each day. It's hard to imagine that we have reached the biggest reserve of fresh water in Southeast Asia, Lake Tonle Sap. This hydraulic system, a combination of river and lake, undergoes a great variation in levels depending on the season. In the dry season, as it is now, the waters are low and plant life has taken over a significant part of the area. Every aspect of life in Prek Toal village takes place on the water. School, small businesses, the entire village is afloat, whatever the height of the lake. The fluctuating waters act as a huge reservoir of fish, which is sadly threatened by overfishing and the construction of huge dams on the Mekong River in China. Small fish are highly valued for the preparation of prahok, a salted and fermented fish paste. Originally used as a preservative, it became a condiment, then a dish in itself. We're making prahok, that's fermented fish. We export a lot of it to Thailand and they give us a good price for it. All day long, armed with cleavers and protective gloves, the whole family chops the fish into tiny pieces. Traveling groceries move between regular customers and anyone who hails them. People cook together on the docks of their houses. The grocer provides the spices needed for the hot fish paste that the mother of the family is preparing for lunch, the whole thing soundtracked by the incessant racket of motorboats. Life on the lake is challenging. The monsoon will soon start and the level of the lake will rise by several meters, covering all the vegetation and bringing stronger currents. Water hyacinths are one of the lake's invasive species, which rot on the lake's bed. However, when they are dried, there is a use for them, a way to compensate for the reduction in fish supplies. A long time ago, in my grandparents' time, we caught and lived on fish. That isn't possible these days because there isn't enough fish. So we've had to create other jobs based on water hyacinths. We carry on breeding fish and we grow vegetables. The hyacinth stalks are taken to a nearby NGO where they will be processed. The workers are currently finishing off a large mat for a hotel in Siem Reap. The water hyacinth is one of the plants that threatens the lake's environment and is of little interest. We've created a project called the Water Hyacinth Workshop. We use the stalks to weave them and we make the various objects that our customers need. Some of the income goes to the families and some to the organization that preserves the lake's environment. Between pollution and the proliferation of large dams, there is no shortage of threats. At the end of the lake, in the village of Totia, a martial art, bokator, dating back to the third century and that had almost vanished, is still practiced. The ceremony and preparations are meticulous and reverential. Bokator had disappeared for a long time. We think since the days of Jayavarman VII. That's after Angkor was abandoned. And then there were the wars. But thanks to the bar reliefs of Angkor Wat and the help of some old people who've been taught some moves, we were able to create some sequences. And then we put all this information together. We compared them with Angkor Wat bar reliefs and we got something quite relevant. After warming up with the bags, the club's two trainers simulate fights which, were they to take place in real mode, could be very violent. This traditional Khmer martial art has a lot of health benefits. Our body gets stronger. When we train and fight, it helps to develop our courage. And if dangerous situations arise, we can use it to defend ourselves. Thanks to this reconstitution, many youngsters have been drawn to this spectacular discipline, ensuring its survival. Our route now takes us east, near Han Che, on the banks of the Mekong. The Kampong Te De bridge is a further example of the architectural glory of Khmer civilization. Dating from the 12th century, it shows no sign of weakness. Buddhism in Cambodia exists essentially in its Theravada form, which 95% of the population practices. Whether a business person or an individual, owning a large Buddha is an important sign of devotion and spirituality. This one weighs nearly a ton. This is natural rock. It takes two people 20 days to get the finished result. Han Che is a small village in a magnificent location on the banks of the Mekong. Living this close to the river requires certain considerations. All the houses are on stilts because in the rainy season, a large part of the land is underwater. While they await the floods, people enjoy the end of the day in the sun, tending to their livestock or peeling vegetables. This villager is making an enclosure for fighting cocks. Animal feed is also kept above ground. Rice recently harvested near the lake has been laid out to dry. Han Che is also known for the production of bamboo houses and furniture. The bamboo is harvested on the banks of the Mekong where it grows in abundance. The bamboo canes are soaked in a bath, the composition of which is secret and gets rid of any potential parasite and preserves their lifespan. They are then stored and dried in the sun for several days. A few hundred meters away, this hotel restaurant is one of their most impressive creations. Han Che also has a magnificent formerly Hindu sanctuary overlooking the river and covering several hectares. The site was a significant worship site in the pre-Angkorian era. It now has a community of Buddhist monks and around a hundred novices who study the core subjects, but also Pali and theology. This 7th century tower is one of the rare monuments spared by the bombings of the Vietnam War. A little further north, the Mekong nonchalantly spreads out over several kilometers. During the dry season, farmers use the alluvial areas for growing tobacco. Chin Chom has recruited his neighbors to help him harvest his fields. It will take them about two weeks. He grows a brown tobacco called Tiem Khme, very popular in Cambodia and its neighboring countries. Depending on one's means, the day's harvest is loaded onto an ox-drawn cart or onto a motorized tractor. We start cultivating the tobacco on the island in October. We work the soil, and in November, we bring the young shoots for planting. Three months later, the harvest starts. When it comes to an end, the first monsoon rains arrive, and it will be time to sow sesame. When the sesame harvest is done, the floods begin, and all this land will be underwater. The sanctuary has given Chin permission to dry his harvest undercover in a temple. The only way to reach the island of Koh Trong, further north in the middle of the Mekong, is to take a ferry. A worn-out craft has the advantage of luring its passengers to the rhythm of the island. Their destination is a haven of peace, very tranquil and with no cars. Only a small nine-kilometer cement road rings the island. The charming little houses are surrounded by rice paddies and banana plantations. Koh Trong is reputed for producing the best pomelos in the country. Sovani has a small plantation. These out-sized grapefruits provide her with extra incomes. The fruit's skin is much thicker than we are used to in Europe. The grapefruits from our island, Koh Trong, are very popular. They have a soft structure, taste very sweet, and when they're ripe, they're very juicy. Most of the rice paddies have been harvested. Now the banana trees are keeping the islanders busy, as well as the vegetables that grow all year round. This lady, Remy, this was soon after the end of the French protectorate, which ended in 1953, when the country gained independence. Her neighbor has fields where she grows all kinds of basil, widely used in everyday cooking. She will sell the herbs in the market at Kratie. People use a lot of bamboo here. It's readily available on the banks of the river. Three years ago, you have flooding on the island, very big flooding, and maybe, I think maybe the water with three meter high, and on the island, when the flooding, we go anywhere by boat. We cannot by bicycle, by motorbike, cannot. Going north up the river, we reach Shillong, a town that has, for many years, profited from the production and trade of rubber. Post-independence, the town fell into a degree of oblivion, even though the timber trade was still booming. These small markets are alive and kicking. They don't just sell produce, but prepare them for the kitchen. The vendors peel and cut up the vegetables to make cooking easier, or to make sauces. River fish are sold either fresh, dried and preserved in salt, or grilled on the spot. These tiny grilled fish are a treat for connoisseurs. The Shillong Inn is one of the few well-preserved colonial buildings. It was built in 1916 by a rich Kratie businessman during the time of the French protectorate. It has recently been renovated and has regained its original cream mustard yellow color, so characteristic of buildings in Indochina. It's now a hotel. We stop off in the suburbs of Kampong Cham, where a wedding is taking place. Such events are highly significant in the country's social life. Family and friends have gathered a few hundred meters from where the ceremony is taking place to parade with presents and gifts for the happy couple. Ruffray's also often master of ceremonies. He has no compunction about pausing proceedings to get the best shots. Shai Sofek, the bride, appears with her maids of honor. They have all spent a long time doing their hair and makeup. The bride respectfully greets her family and her in-laws. Then, with her husband-to-be, Nung Chuneng, they greet their guests. In a marriage, it's always the groom and his family who give the dowry to the bride's family. The ceremony costs a small fortune, almost 3,000 euros. Usually, cash gifts from the guests soften the financial blow. On the road to Phnom Penh, the unmissable skun market offers a wealth of delicacies. Grilled grubs and caterpillars are no longer flavor of the month. These days, Cambodians are keener on tarantulas. These giant spiders provided a welcome source of protein during the war, and ever since, they're believed to have many medicinal benefits. Nearby, Udong was the city's old capital between 1618 and 1866. At the foot of the hill that is home to a royal necropolis, the Preah Atros Pagoda has a spectacular statue of Buddha. Not far away is a village where remarkable artifacts are created. Chumbopa and his family have developed a special technique for decorating objects like jewelry boxes and elephant figurines. Having hammered them into shape, they cover them in a fine layer of silver. This craft, related to brassware, is highly prized. These objects, whether we keep them at home or elsewhere, bring us happiness and prosperity. There are elephants all over the place, on the temples of Angkor and in Siem Reap. Elephants symbolize happiness in our homes. We need elephants around. They symbolize our Khmer country. The vibrancy of Phnom Penh is remarkable. In just a few years, skyscrapers have sprung up at the confluence of the Mekong and the Tonle Sap. Its resilience has made Phnom Penh a flourishing, modern capital city. With just a few years to go, and just over two million inhabitants, the city stretches out along the river. According to legend, an old lady named Penh found four Buddha figures on the banks of the Mekong. She placed them on a nearby hill, and the city grew around them. Nowadays, there's a temple at the top of the hill, and Madame Penh has her own statue to which people bow in homage. The royal palace, home to the current Singh Siamuni, once dominated the city's skyline. Now, much of it is undergoing renovation work, and it is an important landmark of the city. Close by, rehearsals are taking place at the Royal Ballet under the guidance of Prince Teso Sisowat. Before each session, pupils and teachers come to pay tribute to the portraits of Princess Bupa Devi, who for a long time ran the Royal Ballet, having been its star dancer. Training starts at a very, very young age. The artists start when they are six years old with stretching exercises, because as you can see, they have to be very, very supple. It's an important part of our dancing. The body has to be at its limits, stretching the arms to the fingertips, and even the whole body. Preparing for the big dance events, which are performed at the palace in honor of important guests, is very time-consuming. There are no buttons or Velcro on the costumes. Each piece of fabric has to be sewn together. There is also no recorded soundtrack. Musical accompaniment is performed in real time with an orchestra. The Sovan Macha, or golden siren dance, is part of the Indian legend of Ramayana. The monkey god is trying to build a stone bridge across the ocean to reach Sri Lanka, but the siren objects. The Aspara dance is nationally known and is a vital part of our cultural identity. Everybody knows and loves this dance because it relates to the engravings on the temples of Angkor. A few steps from the royal palace, Wat Onalom is one of Cambodia's main religious centers and also the seat of the Buddhist order Maha Nikaya. The main buildings have been restored after they were destroyed by the Khmer Rouge in 1975. A few colonial-era buildings still stand proud, such as UNESCO's headquarters or the post office. The Central Market, built in the 1920s, still displays its Art Deco buildings. The food court is the busiest, the atmosphere invaded by all manner of aromas and smells. Grilled dishes, soya sauce, basil, coconut, and a host of other enticing flavors. Regulars and occasional visitors gladly share a table to wolf down a spicy soup or enjoy grilled calamari kebabs. Next to the royal palace, the National Museum of Cambodia was founded by French archaeologist Georges Grolier, inaugurated in 1920, it has the finest collection of Khmer art spanning nearly 1,000 years. This pre-Angkorian piece has an intriguing similarity to the statues of Egyptian pharaohs. The museum also offers an opportunity to compare different representations of deities over the centuries. It is unthinkable to leave the capital without paying tribute to the victims of the genocide perpetrated by Pol Pot in 1975. The Torts Viprey College, better known as S21, was turned into a high-security prison by the Khmer Rouge. It bears painful witness to the atrocities committed between 1975 and 1978. Beyond the city on the Mekong, Kodash is known as Silk Island. Even recently, almost every house had an underground weaving workshop, but imports have caused the silkworm farms and many workshops to disappear. The shop manufactures sophisticated formal attire. Depending on the motifs used, the price of the fabric can be more than 100 euros apiece. These silk fabrics are used to make wedding dresses. There's a great deal of demand for this silk. People spend a lot of money on weddings. Nowadays, silk is imported from Vietnam and ready-to-wear clothes from China have ruined the market. The island has another rather interesting speciality. All day long, these large vats are used to cook tofu, an Asian speciality made from soya and a commonly used condiment in everyday cooking. The idea is a simple one. Like milk, the heated soya produces a skin. The soya milk forms a skin as it cooks. You have to cut it down the middle to collect it and you dry it on the bars. You just have to keep the fire going and you can collect several skins from the same pan every day. After being drained, the skin is dried in the sun for a day. Once it is solid, it can be crumbled over as soup, salad, or hot dish. The south of the country on the Vietnamese border offers remarkable landscapes. At An Co near Kep, the salt marshes are still active. The arrival of the dry season brings the beginning of the harvest. As it evaporates, the seawater yields its precious salt crystalline. Cao of Oen works with his family. He has been collecting salt for nearly 30 years. I collect 100% of my harvest from these salt marshes. We usually start harvesting in January and can carry on until May, weather permitting. Before it is packed and sold, the salt is cleaned and enriched with iodine. These salt marshes are vitally important for the country. Until the 1960s, Kep was an upmarket resort before the Khmer Rouge destroyed it in 1975. Virtually nothing remains of the splendor of those days. Nowadays, the town is mainly frequented for its blue crab market. These crustaceans are hard-earned. They are caught out at sea, five to six hours by boat from the coast. Every day, the fishermen hand the contents of their coffers to the women awaiting the barges by the shore. The crabs and other seafood are then the object of bitter negotiations between saleswomen and buyers. Some very fine properties have been rebuilt in Kep, far from the hubbub of Phnom Penh. Today, I'm going to make you a dish which is a specialty in my region here in Kep. Crab with green peppercorns. The crab has a blue tinge. So what we need. Green pepper. A crab. Garlic. Onion. Black pepper. Some oil. Some fish sauce. Salt and sugar. Green pepper is a fresh pepper that has just been picked and goes into the pan with the crab. It gives the dish a great aroma without making it too spicy. The Kampot region, and Kep in particular, are known the world over for a variety of pepper that features in the kitchens of all the great chefs. We visit Robert Caron, who four years ago took over an organic pepper plantation. The berries are almost ripe and will soon be ready for picking. Each plant produces about four kilos, an adult plant. And this year, some of the plants are heavily laden, which will provide me with a lot of pepper. Robert has a preference for red pepper, which is harder to get because he has to wait until the peppercorns reach full maturity. It's rarer, and honestly, it's my favorite because it isn't as strong and it's more fruity. A few kilometers below, the plantation is an estate covering several hectares. This family business was created in 2013 by a Franco-Belgian couple, supported by a cultivation manager who has been in the pepper business for five generations. Harvesting is selective and takes account of the maturity of the grains. Picked when green, fresh pepper is difficult to keep and transport, in spite of all its aromatic qualities. The clusters of pepper are quickly picked off. Then the grains are sorted, washed, and heated. They are then laid out and dried in the sun for two to three days. We leave the sea and the environment, composed of mountains and small hills. Each bunch is picked off by hand, which acts as a first sorting. What's important with pepper, with a pepper in your mouth a long time, a bit like wine, it lingers on the palate. Citrus, red pepper is much more fruity as the grains are very mature. The terroir and ancient know-how are the secrets of Kampot Pepper's success. Every village has a pagoda, like this one above Kep. The more beautiful and ornate it is, the more it shows that the villages are devout. It also plays an important social role, as it welcomes young people whose parents cannot afford to send them to school. Usually, in the Satadhamma-Vyara Pagoda, that we also call Nong Puan, there are not only monks, but children from the village who come to study so that they get a good education. As well as core subjects or those linked to Buddhism, local volunteers come to give them English lessons. To the west, Sihanoukville once had some of the finest beaches in Southeast Asia. But recent commercial contracts with China have resulted in the covering of part of the coastline in concrete. You have to escape an hour away by boat to the island of Koh Rong to find the magic of these wonderful beaches. This one is seven kilometers long and owes its fame to well-known television adventure series. From the Americans in Survivor to the French of Koh Lanta, this picture postcard landscape attracts dream merchants. The island's touristic development owes them a lot. Koh Rong is crossed by two saltwater rivers that snake through the jungle. At the end of one of them, the fishing village of Preksavi is the heart of the island. All is calm in the early morning. The fishermen have returned from their nocturnal foray, and the village gradually comes to life with the presence of women and children. Coconuts, their fibers are used for making rope, but the flesh is also used in many Southern Cambodian recipes. This idyllic scenery obviously makes this a highly coveted location. A most incongruous project for this tiny island is the construction of an airport which would serve a complex of several hundred villas, construction that could even begin very soon. But even today, Koh Rong is a beautiful haven of rest, spared from the hubbub of the cities. A prized destination in our visit to Cambodia and an inspiring place to live.