Trying the HARDEST boulder on the kilter board w⁄ Alex Megos

Extreme Slab Climbing
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1 Video View·Oct 29, 2024
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Trying the hardest boulder on the kilter board w/ Alex Megos & Magnus Midtbø
Music and Sound Effects: http://share.epidemicsound.com/vSnfn
Shot by Sam Tuck and Elliot Walker
Edited by Sam Tuck https://www.instagram.com/samtuclimbing/
So I'm here with Alex Magos. We're going to do a kilter session.
I'm a little bit nervous to be honest, because I know that you're super strong in this stuff.
Probably the strongest guy in the world when it comes to this stuff.
How hard?
7b.
And now we're at 50 degrees?
50 degrees, exactly.
We're going to move up though. We're going to try something really, really freaking hard.
Go left 10 again.
That's chill.
What would you say, is matching allowed on the kilter board or not?
Usually they have a little icon when it says no matching allowed.
I didn't realize that until recently that you're not allowed to match.
So fluent, come on.
Nice.
What would you recommend moving up to now then?
Well, we don't want to straight away move up to 8a, do we?
No, let's try maybe a 7b plus or 7c.
Let's see, 7b plus.
For me, I feel like the grades are harder on the 50 degrees.
Really?
Yeah, 40 degrees I feel like is easier for me.
I feel like a lot of the grades on the 50 degrees aren't really calibrated.
It feels like they just add a number from 40 degrees.
That's the only problem with a kilter board and all kinds of boards.
As a setter, you can just put in whichever grade you want.
Usually, until there's a consensus, it takes time.
Nice.
I even skipped a hold.
Did I?
This one.
Oh, that one.
I was going to say, the first two moves were pretty hard.
I mean, that's the beta.
It's just a little bit too easy for me, so I just figured I'd skip a hold.
I usually don't like starting so low, you know.
We're just doing a pretty quick session, like a 40-minute session.
This is something I would recommend actually.
Just doing 40 minutes on the kilter board is enough, I feel like, for most people.
For sure.
If you don't rest too much and you get quite a few boulders done, you can do a lot in 40 minutes.
I think a lot of people think that if it's less than 40 minutes, or if it's 40 minutes, it's useless.
But you can get a lot of stuff done in 40 minutes.
I mean, on the fingerboard, 40 minutes is plenty.
I almost fumbled.
Nice.
Yeah, you did the same thing, actually.
Kind of over or undershot it a little bit.
So that was a 7c, right?
7c.
Now we move up to 7c+.
Let's have a look and see what they have on the 7c+.
What is the hardest boulder you've done on this?
The hardest boulder is 8b.
There's nothing harder, usually, than 8b.
So even if it is probably harder, people grade it 8b.
I remember when I tried the boulder that I thought you had set.
Yeah, that was bullshit and impossible.
We saw the video.
Bibliography, yeah.
Because it was supposed to be the crux of bibliography.
And then we also tried it and we were like, no, that doesn't work.
I wonder who set that boulder.
Some guy that only made two 6c's and that thing. That's it.
For those of you who don't know, I did a video where the title was like,
I'm trying the hardest boulder on the kilter board.
And I saw bibliography and I thought it was Alex who had set the boulder.
And I tried it and I was like, this can't be possible.
This can't be humanly possible.
And then he made a video where he tried it and he confirmed that it's actually not humanly possible.
I was just like, good.
And then we made up another boulder that resembled more the crux of bibliography.
Nice, come on.
Now it's starting to get hard, yeah.
I look so fluent when he climbs it.
So easy, come on.
You know what it looks like when you climb?
It's like a hot knife cutting through butter.
So smooth.
I use that analogy too. It's a nice analogy.
How much do you train on the kilter board on average?
I mean, at the moment, maybe once or maximum twice a week.
And I try to rotate as much as possible.
The more different gyms and the more different boards, the better.
This might be where I'm throwing my shirt.
I was going to say, don't succeed, but I changed it to show my shirt.
I don't know why that second to last hole is there.
To deceive.
Now it's going to get serious.
And we have a problem in mind for this.
So the next grade is 8A+.
And we've seen a video on Instagram of this guy.
This is like 360.
That looks really weird.
Very strange.
You haven't tried it either?
I have tried it on 60 and I've done it on 60.
And the move is similar.
But I feel like the move is easier on 60 because you don't have to go as high.
So I look forward to try this.
Because it looks crazy in the video.
This is it.
That's it.
I guess you have to cross, right?
Yeah.
So the beginning is easier on 50 than on 60, but this particular move is harder.
Nice.
Yeah.
Come on.
See, that's exactly what...
Come on.
Oh yeah, that's good.
Come on.
That was close.
That was good though.
It's a bit of a...
I don't know.
Yeah.
I think you do jump off the foot and it's a bit of a leg kick that you do.
I'm gonna just try that separate move, I think.
Yeah.
That was it.
Yeah.
I feel like it's a little bit different from the video, but...
Yes, nice.
Come on.
Okay.
That top is fine.
Top is fine, yeah.
Yeah, it's that move.
I need to do the move though.
I'm not gonna try it from the ground.
Yeah.
Nice.
Yeah.
For me though, it's gonna be hard to do it from the ground.
But it does work.
Because it was right on the limit for me.
It does work exactly that way, huh?
Yeah.
Come on, man.
No!
It looks like you slipped with the foot.
Yeah.
It's still a tricky move.
Not an easy boulder.
Yeah.
It's not a typical power boulder.
It's also very much about coordination.
Right.
Okay, I'm gonna try one from the ground as well, but...
While you're resting.
Nice.
Come on.
No.
How do you do that move though?
Same way.
Yeah, because I did it last time, but not...
I think I...
I don't know.
It felt different this time.
One more try, then we move on to the hardest boulder.
Sounds good.
Thankfully, I've done the hardest one already.
I don't have to repeat it.
Oh, you have done the hardest one?
I have.
I think at least one of the hardest.
Okay.
It's debatable which one is the hardest, but...
Yeah.
There's one, I think, that has quite cool moves.
Yeah.
Yeah, first set was by Yannick.
Okay.
And set was by Jimmy Webb.
So Jimmy Webb set it.
He's a good setter.
Yeah, he's also a pretty hard setter.
He is.
Yeah.
And Yannick made the first set after trying it for...
I think a couple of years or something.
Yeah.
Yeah, a lot of people...
Not a lot, so like a handful of people did it.
Like the usual kilter board crew.
Yeah, okay.
Okay, Alex.
Go.
It's your time.
Let's go.
All right, come on.
Come on.
Shit.
That was close.
Very close.
You're just a little bit far to the...
Yeah.
Right.
Yeah, this move is hard.
Yeah.
Super tricky.
The next session, I'll mark it as a project.
Mark it as a project, yeah.
Okay, so this is the hardest bowler on the kilter board.
Yeah, it's called Drunks Unlimited.
Is this it?
This is it.
Oh.
Man, that looks hard.
Yeah, it has a weird sequence over here where you...
It looks so reachy, too, though.
Where you go down like this.
Yeah.
And then up this way.
And then you go back to this.
Yeah.
Wow.
But this move...
This move is super hard.
You have a toe hook here.
Yeah.
But it's quite hard.
Do you think you can repeat it now?
I can try.
Unlikely.
Holy crap.
Come on.
Oh, so strong.
Oh, my God.
How effortless you made that look.
Got it.
Come on.
Oh, my God.
That's such a cool bowler.
Yeah.
That really is a cool move.
Yeah.
But, yeah.
Okay, I'll try it, too, for reference.
For that one, I also need to be fresh.
Yes.
Jeez, that's...
Oh, my God.
Okay.
It almost feels like an outdoor bowler
because it's not only hard,
but also intricate with the beta.
Yeah.
I don't think I can even start in that position.
Yeah.
Yeah, exactly.
That's how I start, too.
I can't even move my foot back to the original position.
This is freaking hard, man.
And it's only graded 8B.
It's only graded 8B,
but it took most people that can flash 8B,
you know, more than 10 sessions.
Okay, how many people have done this now, would you say?
I think maybe a handful.
Okay.
But all of them have already climbed 8C outside.
Yeah.
Actually, the one guy who recently did it,
he also said it was one of his longest projects ever.
You know, not only on the kilter board, but ever.
Yeah.
And he climbed the Sleepwalker, the 8C Plus,
in like three days.
Oh, my God.
Nice.
Oh, that looks big.
This is so strange.
Yeah, I think you have to get it a little bit higher.
You have to get it really high, and then...
Yeah.
But in my mind, I tried to keep my left hand for the whole move,
and then it ends up coming off anyways,
but it feels like you've got a bit more control.
Right.
What if you just did like a switch like that?
Would that be allowed?
It would be allowed.
And I tried, but it's not easier.
Okay.
Yeah, because that's boulder without matching,
but the hand match is hard.
Yeah, it's super hard.
It's hard to get high enough on that.
Exactly, it's super hard to get high enough.
Come on, man.
Yeah, nice.
So you basically did it in two parts now, right?
Yeah.
You did those.
Well, that's the thing.
Doing it in two parts and actually linking it is like...
Yeah.
Two different things.
That means that it's a well-set boulder, I guess.
Yeah.
It's very cool.
It'll be one of the...
I mean, it is kind of one of the classics in that grade.
I mean, not many people climb it,
but it's definitely one of the more famous ones.
Right.
Cool.
Well, it was awesome climbing with you.
Well, thank you for coming by.
Make sure that you check out Alex,
and also the next days we're going to shoot his course,
so go to altitudeclimbing.com to check out that.
And I'll see you next time, and I'll see you next time.
