文藝復興queen平凡的一天從清晨穿衣開始! P1-Dressing a Rennaissance Queen P4-Dressing up a Florentine Lady 1480-90s
28 觀看·2024年11月25日
Dressing up a Florentine Lady
1418-19
By Prior Attire
Today, we are looking at the layers worn by a Florentine upper class
the camicia, camorra and germera
loosely translated as the shipped cattle and an overgown
We are starting with the camicia, a shipped or a chemise
It was usually made in soft linen, a fabric that breathes well and can be washed frequently
It sported a new, very generous cut
unlike more fitted chemises seen at that time in the north of the continent
It was a fashion that would pick up and be seen in a variety of Renaissance styles across Europe
The neckline and sleeves are gathered into narrow bands
and the cuffs close to the hook and bar or buttons
Gamorra, the kirtle
The cut was not that different from the mainstream fashions
but already indicated regional variations
The waist was slowly gripping up
a trend we see fully developed especially in the 1419 styles in Florence and Venice
Gamorra could be plain and light wool or for a more affluent councilman and fancy silks
Bodices were usually lined with linen
whereas the skirt could be lined or unlined depending on personal preferences and season
This one is in a very light silk, woven with square pattern
The bodice is lined with plain linen
but the voluminous skirts gathered to the bodice are unlined
The sleeves are lined in plain silk, easier to slide them over the linen chemise
Allegedly, that is
The sleeves were usually fastened with points
If you had help with dressing up, the sleeves could be put on separately, much easier
Me? I need to make do with my own, so the sleeves are tied in already
A bit trickier, especially with the huge sleeves of the camicia
But I think we've just about done it
Wahey! Success?
Well, almost
The chemise is pulled out through the openings in the sleeves and between the sleeves and the bodice
It was a very clever design, allowing for more ventilation in hot climate
But a very pretty one, too, that caught up with Northern Europe in the 16th century
The bodice is interlined with stiff buckram to give me some support and control over the bosom
I'm also sporting some breast binding under the chemise
For that, see a closer, a bit risqué peek at the end of the video to that effect
Just an additional precaution, not necessary if you didn't need it, obviously
The bodice laces in front with one long tie
Here all ties, points, were made in wool on the lucet with brass egglets
Bodices could lace at the sides and back, too, but front was probably the most common
I used brass rings set in the Gamora, but worked eyelets were used just as frequently
The lacing is from the bottom up, helping to keep the assets up and well-supported
The lucet cord has a bit of stretch in it
This helps with both lacing and comfort
Almost there
At least it's faster than buttons
A bit more
Let us tighten it up a bit
Although it seems like a long time when you watch
It actually takes just a few minutes, especially if I'm doing it at full speed with nobody watching
Final adjustments
Pulling out the chemise nicely
And all done
Sort of
Almost there
Yay!
Right
Shoes next
They are leather with gold braid decoration that matches the Gamora
Stockings or hose, as shown, were already in place
Obviously
Let's buckle them up
The shoes close with a buckled strap
I'm trying to put them in a manner that would not involve too much leaning in
No upskirt in either piece
Next
A belt next
Not always necessary, but handy for hanging stuff from
Stuff like eating implements, purses, keys, etc
A little purse for some coins and a handkey
Oh, not a bad size for a mobile phone either
Bling choices
Thunder beads
Or jade and pendant
The oracle hath spoken
Awesome
So green bling it is
Were very fiddly fastening
Just my luck
A matching ring
And all done
A bit of a close up for you
Gamora is enough to wear indoors or maybe for an informal outing to the market
Or lounging on a patio with friends
But for a more formal occasion, a gown is required
A few types were in fashion
Depending on status and occasion
A joker, cotta or a journer
Journer was a voluminous loose garment
Falling in folds from the shoulders
It could have been cinched with a belt all around
Or just halfway, as shown
A perfect example of a formal overgown
That is light and suitable for a warmer climate
Stilted blue
This example is made out of silicone brocade
And lined with lightweight silk
It is decorated with a matching braid
And very airtight
Main versions, short and often almost circular, were also popular
A posher version of simple heraldic tabard perhaps
Obviously for men, not women
Doll
Many women in paintings sport translucent veils on their heads
They may look great in the paintings
But my silk veil is a real pain to keep on
Thanks, Nibu
As for hairstyle
The front hair is short and curled
The back caught in a bun and secured with a net
One of those very few periods when head necklaces were actually okay
Let's curl the ends a bit
The ends of the veil were often seen twisted nicely
Maybe we'll work better on linen
That silk is one of its own
But hey, let's see if it stays for close-ups
It stays
For long
Batman
That's it from me today
Hope you enjoyed it
Almost forgot
The promised breast-painting
In terms of the delicate constitution
Leave now
Ta-da!
