BUYING USED Isuzu D-MAX - best used buy or problematic?

Is the Isuzu D-MAX the most reliable dual cab you can buy, or is it plagued with turbo, transmission, and DPF issues? Today, we're down to Offroad Pros, and we're gonna go over everything top to bottom on this thing to show you exactly what to look out for if you're planning on buying one from the used market. We'll be going over both pre and post-facelift models to work out which ones are better buying, showing you every little issue to look out for so that we can work out if this is a second-hand bargain or just a money pit. Righto, now let's talk models and the different spec levels. I'm not gonna go through all of them today because there's actually 22 that come out across the year. The biggest updates come in 2017, where Isuzu added heaps of things on the outside like updated headlights, daytime running lights, fog lights, and even a new grille. The actual biggest update in 2017 was the engine. The power stayed the same, however, there was 50 more new meters of torque available in this new motor, and that really made a difference when you were behind the wheel driving this thing. However, this refresh added a few things which could have turned out to be a bit of a downgrade. They come with a six-speed transmission, an updated turbocharger, and now these things have got a DPF. Now the engine, this is arguably probably one of the biggest selling points of the D-MAX. These things are known as the mighty 4JJ1 engine. Now these are found in most N-series trucks and actually a heap of earth-moving equipment too, with only a few minor little changes, mainly just in the engine tuning. They're known for reliability, and with the right care, these things have known to get up over the 600,000 kilometre mark and still be running perfectly fine. There's two different variants in the Gen 2 D-MAX, obviously 2012 through to 2016, and then 2017 and beyond until it changed over. Now the easiest way to tell once you pop the bonnet if it's post-2017 is this red intercooler hose. What does that mean? It means it's the updated 4JJ1 engine variant, and it does now have a DPF, it's got a different turbocharger, and they've got the upgraded six-speed automatic transmission. The biggest problems you'll come across in these, especially in the 2017 plus models, is turbo problems. So they updated the turbo to a MHI Mitsubishi model, and basically they over-spun, and the variable vanes could get stuck, causing them to fail. Now these turbos were mostly replaced unwarranted, but the bad news of that is they're replaced with the exact same unit, which can be known to fail again. Now the best things to look for, to work out if you do have a turbo problem, is get someone to stand at the back when you start it. If there's a heap of smoke, it could be signs of a dodgy turbo. If it's sort of low down in power, always going into limp motor, you've got a bit of a squeal on high boost, it could be a sign that the vanes are stuck. Now my recommendation would be, if you did have one of the post-2017 models, and you were having turbo dramas, my mate Tommy from Performance Tours said what the turbo is to put on there is a post-2022 model. They're a much better unit. They're still a Mitsubishi turbo, but they're an IHI model. You don't have any problems with the vanes clogging up or these things over-spinning, and you have a very reliable Ford JJ1 engine. Now as I briefly mentioned earlier in the video, one of the things to look at from the 2017 plus models is they come with a DPF. With a DPF comes common issues across, no matter what brand it is. Burn-off problems, them clogging up, and even causing poor fuel economy. One thing to be mindful of if you do get the chance to take the car for a longer drive is that if it does want to keep doing DPF burns, it could be a sign of a bad turbo, obviously because it's sooting up all the time. And one thing about these models too you've got to be a little bit mindful of is they don't actually have a dedicated DPF burn button like some of the other dual cubs do. So you've sort of got to pencil in one big drive a week to make sure these things get their burn-off happening. Because if they start clogging up, you're going to be up for some costly repairs. Another thing to look out for with these Ford JJ1 engines is they've got hydraulic lifters. Now these things need to be adjusted regularly within the servicing scheme. One way to tell if it hasn't been done is you'll hear a tapping noise in the engine at low revs, even high revs, it's super easy to tell. It's a very easy noise to pick up on. And this is a good way to see if the actual service records or what the seller is telling you matches up with what's actually been done to the engine. Another couple of things to keep in mind with these engines is the injectors actually have to be changed at the 200,000 kilometre mark. So if you're looking at buying a higher kilometre DMX, don't be too scared about that. Just make sure you factor it into your cost. One other thing to check that not many people know about is the intake manifolds of these things have a thing what's called a swirl flap. And if the car's getting over the 200,000 kilometre mark, these things have been known to dislodge and cause major engine damage. Now this is actually a problem that you visually can't see and it's super hard to tell unless you go pulling the car apart. No doubt a buyer's going to let you do that. Although this issue is super hard to tell, you would definitely know if some of those swirl flaps have been dislodged and caused engine damage. So the good news is if the engine's still running fine and driving and you can catch it before anything like that happens, it's good news. In 2017, one of the major changes in the DMX was they went from a five-speed transmission up to a six-speed. Now there was actually nothing wrong with the five-speed. They were a super tough unit and I haven't heard of any problems with them. With the six-speeds, I've heard them hunting for gears a little bit and they can get a bit hot, especially if you're doing any four-wheel driving or towing. So it's a good thing to look through those service records and make sure the transmission are being serviced at least every 60,000. That's a good indicator it's been looked after. Another couple of things to look for if the car's been done up or you think it's been used for towing, check it's got an upgraded automatic transmission cooler. That is a good thing too. And if you plan on taking one of these six-speeds off-road or doing some towing, make sure you factor in a valve body upgrade because that can totally change the way these six-speed drives. Going to stop some hunting gears as much makes a much stronger unit. Another thing to check if you get a chance to jack the car up or even throw it on a hoist is the front wheel bearings. Now they are a serviceable item, but they often get neglected. So just jack it up, give it a wobble. If they are a bit worn out and tight, it isn't the end of the world, just make sure you factor that pricing into your budget. Another thing that's really important to check in all IFS cars, but especially D-MAX is the way these CVs go into the diff, is check that they're a genuine unit and check that the boots aren't split. These boots can get quite hard and brittle. And if you do some forward driving when the car's been lifted, they can split. But what's important is to make sure they're actually genuine because they're a much stronger unit. If they're aftermarket, it's easy to tell. They're often silver here and the boot can be a little bit different on the diff end, but they also snap off in the diff much easier and it makes the repair super hard to do and just way more costly. Now let's talk body. It's the same across most secondhand vehicles. You've got to look down the side, check that all the panels straighten up, make sure all the panels are matching, colour-wise and that sort of thing. One massive problem in the D-MAX, and this is probably a reason I would say to walk away if you find a problem in a car here, is the second gen D-MAXs, Isuzu made the body heaps stiffer, which is great, perfect idea, but when you're fully loaded up and off-road, the chassis still flexes a lot and sometimes it can cause cracks down here in the engine bay. Now, if you catch it before it's too late, it's okay, but these can get quite severe and repairs can be very, very costly. Sometimes you even got to pull the engine out. Obviously that's a very expensive job or worst case scenario, you've got to pull the whole body off and put a whole new front clip on. So if you see any signs of cracking or in the engine bay here, back a bit further where it meets the firewall, I would go as far to say is, walk away from the vehicle right there, right now, unless it is an absolute bargain and you want yourself a project. ♪♪♪ Well, you guys probably had enough of me talking about these things. So I've got Jake here, the owner from Offroad Pros down and he knows everything about these things. Mate, what do you got to say? Do you reckon they're a good thing? They are probably the best thing. Yeah. The best car you could probably buy. They're known for being pretty reliable because that truck engine in there. Yeah. Reliable, basic, but better price range than Luxies for instance. Yeah. These are sort of the first dual cab that had that big three and a half tonne towing capacity, weren't they? They were, they beat Hilux. Yeah. We've got a couple of these work gears as well that we've been up to almost half a million Ks. Oh, right. And they're still going fine. They're still absolutely perfect. Yeah. Because there is a couple of little problems, but it doesn't seem to happen to everyone. It's sort of just a odd few here and there. I haven't experienced many problems at all. They're probably the least warranty vehicle we get back. Yeah. Oh, that's unreal then. That's good to hear. Overall, I'd say they're the best car on the dual cab market. It'd be my personal pick for a D-Max. I have probably most others up there with a very select few. And Jake reckons these things pretty much speak for themselves. They walk out the gate, or they get driven out the gate. Doesn't even have to advertise them. Everyone wants these things because they've got such a good reputation. As soon as they come in, they're out. We're out the back of Offroad Pros now. This is something you don't normally find at a car yard. We've got a hoist, mechanics toolbox, and the mechanic's just in there at the moment. What's the go here, Jake? You're actually doing legit things. Do you change parts here? Yeah, we just change everything. Whatever needs to be changed, whatever's required, do legit roadways. Yeah. Good peace of mind. Throws out a better car. Yeah. Yeah, so they get the cars in, they take them for a test drive, they then throw them up on the hoist, any parts they've got to change. Jake said they do brakes, bushes, ball joints, they even go as far to do remains. Now, that is a big job, but that's because at Offroad Pros, they have a one-year warranty, and Jake only sells products that he's happy to stand behind. Isn't that right? That's right, yeah. So if you're a bricklayer, concreter, or just a man wanting a dominant rig, come into Offroad Pros, buy a D-MAX today. Inside the D-MAX. Now, the driving position, I'm going to go out there and say, it's probably one of the best in all the dual cabs. The thing I really like about it is, this car doesn't even have a bull by on the front, and I can still see right over the bonnet, and I'm at the tallest bloke. So the seating position, I do really like. One thing about the seats in these things, I'm not the biggest fan of, is these headrests. They sort of, the seat goes back, and the headrest almost points forward. When I do longer trips in Grahams D-MAX, I normally spin them around, but that could be personal preference. This is actually one of the higher spec models. It's got electric leather seats, so they're kind of comfy, but even that, all the buttons and stuff are in the same spots, regardless across the models. Gear sticks, easy to touch if I want Tiptronic. Down here, aircon controls, easy to see and still keep my eyes on the road. The steering wheel controls have got these little toggles, super easy to use, I really like them. The interior is more agricultural and basic compared to the other Dual Cobes that came out around the same time, like the Hilux, the Nav, and the Ranger. It has proven to be reliable, but there's not many creature comforts or special features that make the longer drives more comfortable. One problem I've actually heard about the inside of the D-MAX, and it's probably the only one I've heard of, is there's the aircon pipe that goes from under the dash out the fireball into the engine bay, and due to vibrations and stuff, there's a rubber grommet there that that pipe can rub through, then you lose all your aircon gas and you don't have cold air. But luckily, most of these would change under warranty with the different units, it doesn't rub through. And the good news is, if you've got one that hasn't and it looks like it may rub through, it's about to rub through, there's a couple of aftermarket brackets available to mount things both inside and outside to stop these rattles. And that will make everything a bit more secure and less vibrating, so you know that aircon pipe isn't gonna rub through and you can get in here on a hot day, crank that aircon, stay nice and cool. Now, let's talk pricing. This is always a tricky one because they fluctuate so much, but I'm just gonna go in the middle and pick a LSU from 2012 to 2016. If you've got a budget of around 25 to 30K, you're probably gonna be able to get yourself a pretty low kilometre, very tidy car. Now, stepping up to the post-2017 model spec, you're probably gonna have to up your budget a little bit. I'd probably say around 35 to 40 and you'll definitely be able to get yourself a low kilometre one of these that's been pretty well looked after. Just make sure you look at that service history. But if that isn't fancy enough for you and you wanna go one of the top LS models, you're probably gonna have to up your budget quite a bit, maybe 45,000 right up to 60,000. But the good news about most of these car is there've been more crawlers. None of them have been off-road. So this is sort of for you to work out whether you wanna pay more and get a super tidy car or you wanna save a little bit of that money on the purchase price to add for mods. But anyway, there's my rough budgets and I'd say look for a local on one if you can, but these things do go forever. Despite some of the issues I've spoken about today, the second gen D-MAXs have built a solid reputation of being a super reliable thing. If you're looking for a tough you that's up for plenty of kilometres, well, I wouldn't look past the second gen D-MAX. It's actually probably the pick of the bunch for me. Personally, I'd go for a 2012 to 2016 LSU model. Now, when you do that, you get the more reliable five-speed transmission, no DPF to keep things super simple and the better turbocharger also. And being LSU, you get a few more creature comforts inside over the LSU, so it's super comfy for those longer drives. Now, if you find one of these things with a great service history and the proper maintenance done, you're gonna get yourself a simple, super reliable you. But what do you guys reckon? Is there anything we missed or is there anything else you guys wanna know? Chuck it in the comments below and we'll have a read. Well, cheers guys for watching another episode of our Buying You series. If you liked it, make sure you drop a like below and if you haven't subscribed, so we can make plenty more of these videos to help you guys out. Anyway, that is enough from me. I'll see you next time on 4WD 24-7. And I'll see you next time on 4WD 24-7.