I SAVED This SMASHED In Door With Paintless Dent Removal | Dent Remover UK

I have one mounting saddle here with dent remover in Beverly, so I've got a big, big, big dent. There's no point even using that line board on the back because we can kind of see how big it is. Look at that! Wow! Looks like the coyote's gone and ran into the side of it, or a deer. This vehicle is a 2022 Vauxhall Mokka. It's a friend of mine's, unfortunately he's had a bit of a bump on there, he asked me to do my best, so I accepted the challenge. This damage was created when a tipper van was reversing at an angle and it made contact with the door. The steel bumper created those two super sharp dents and also dragged the full panel in. So my aim is to get this door looking as best as possible without any body filler or paintwork and just by using the paintless dent removal methods. I took the job on, I accepted the challenge, so I'm going to show you guys how I did it. I need to get as much access to the backside of this damage as possible, so the full door and internal components need to be carefully removed. The interior trim comes off with just a few Torx screws and then unclips. Then the protective membrane needs to be peeled away but kept intact, this is so the moisture doesn't get in through the door and into the cabin. Moving the door glass down so that the retaining clips can be reachable, push the clip in to release the window and then the outer rubber seals and the small window needs to come off. This then gives me some wriggle room to pull out that door glass. The window regulator is next to be removed and you can see the rear of that sharp dent and that is looking absolutely horrendous. The outer handle pulls back and away from the door after unscrewing it and lastly the internal handle and door mechanism is removed giving me all the access that I need. To start this repair I need to stretch the door panel, so I'm going to be using the JVF Tools Retention System. Before I can use the lateral tension system I need to decide on the best placement of those two feet or the glue tabs. I need the LTS to pull as much of the dent out as possible so strategic placing is key. I spent about 10 minutes pondering different setups but in the end I went for a horizontal setup near the handle and top crease. Time to load up the glue tab and these require a lot of glue. Using two hot melt glue guns, each with a full stick, pumping onto this tab. Speed is important to keep the glue hot, filling the full surface and not leaving any gaps where air pockets could form and then placing the tabs onto the door panel, making sure any voids are filled in with more glue. The second tab or foot is loaded up in the same way but if there's any delay in applying the glue or if I'm using a single glue gun, I'll heat up the glue with a heat gun and get that glue red hot again. And then I'll apply it to the other side of the door, not forgetting to fill in those gaps if there is any. Time to get the JVF retention tool out. As you can see, this means business and I'll personally store this in the toolbox in bits. This is because the system comes with short and long beams. For this door I'm going to be using the long beams. It's very simple to put together, just slide the CNC legs onto the beams and nip the clamps using the allen key or finger tight. Now that it's been put together, I need to attach it to the door. The legs have ball sockets which fit into the black tabs and then tighten the collars until it's all secured and this JVF retention system is ready to go. I mentioned a few seconds ago about the ball sockets fitting to the feet, that enables this setup to move freely, top, middle and bottom in my case, around the damage and gives the repairer more room to work while still placing the panel under tension. Here's a tip for anyone using these and something I realised, I keep the leg clamps slightly loose when setting up this on a panel and then wind the knob to the inner stop. This will give you maximum throw when it comes to using this system. Once all that is done, all the clamps on the legs and the tab collars all need to be tightened up and then it's time to start stretching this door. With a little tension applied, you'll see this damage start to move. Looking at the arrow, you can see the LTS winding out from the stop. I'm using a battery screwdriver to turn this knob and apply the tension but this can also be done by hand. I'm always watching for any unwanted movements but this panel is coming along very nicely. Just checking the door to see if it opens and then back in with more tension. But I did see an opportunity to tap the top of that panel and bounce some of the dents out, which literally fell out from all of that stretching. I'm happy with the progress so far, so I'm removing the LTS from the door so that I can get a really good look at it and see what needs to be fixed next. Just 10 minutes with the retention system and it straightened the door frame right out and the door also lines up and it shuts great. Ok I've just removed one of the feet off the JVF retention system and look at that. Spot on. No more big gap but these are very worrying because they are so deep, they've got a deep shadow in there. It'll be fun won't it. I'm going to have a look at the top bit now. Moving on to the top right of this door panel around the door handle as it still needs to come out some more. To do this I'm placing a large bendable tab inside the handle recess and then lots of glue applied holding it firmly in place until the glue stops being tacky. Next I'm setting up a pulling system but I also need to add a safety strap to the top of the door frame. The set up I'm using for this is the Kamoto bridge puller and the safety strap is there to hold the weight, not that the beam weighs a lot but it gives me a hands off set up. Hooking the pulling part of the tab and arranging the bridges feet so they use the door edges to press against and I can begin winding and drawing this area out. So I'm keeping the tension on the handle area and I'm looking for any crowns or creases which need to be tapped down with a hammer and a knockdown, blending them back into shape. These hold a lot of tension from the accident as the metal is bunched up into a ridge. So with the tension of the pulling system applied it makes it a lot less hassle to rectify these areas as they are not under the stress of the pushed in metal. And fixing these crowns also adds strength back into the panel. And there we go, this took a couple of hours to level up and it's a million times better than before. So for now I'm going to leave this area and move on to the other outer corners of the door panel, fixing the other top crease dent next. I want to strengthen the metal up before I try and fix these centre dents. Ok this diagonal crease is what's left of the juicy crease earlier on, pretty straight forward to fix. I'm starting off by lifting the bulk of the dents up with hot glue and tabs. I'm mainly using crease tabs as they match the shape of the dent and then shocking the dents out using a slide hammer and a mini lifter. This takes a bit of time and then once I'm about 80% I can finish off the area with PDR bars by gaining access from the top window gap and this dent is fixed. So now I'm on to the bottom front crease. This had a prominent crown low down so this had to be tapped flush. Then more glue pulling with the crease tabs and to be fair this repaired very quickly. The last area to fix before I get on to the middle damage is the rear bottom part of the door. This was a little tricky because the crease dent ran through the body line shape and also a concave part of the door. Adding to the difficulty, the frame had pressed the line into the door skin which can be hard to fix. Most of this was repaired with the crease tabs. The door frame was manipulated using the rubber mallet from the inside and carefully using a knock down on the skin side to smooth it all out. Ok here we go, time to fix those super deep dents. This is the inside of the door where those deep dents are. I've removed the eco so I can shrink them using an electronic shrinking tool. The dents also ran behind this door brace which was already badly twisted and unbonded from the skin. This isn't a structural part, only a brace for the door skin so this can be rebonded later. And this is the magic tool, the power PDR box. This is an amazing dent machine that uses high frequency pulses to stabilise and move the metal. Using an F point and a carbon wand from the back of the panel, I'll be tapping the rear of these dents to shrink the area and hopefully save this door from the paint shop. But first I need to lift the dents up best I can. These two dents are super deep, they're going to need a lot of persuasion just to even lift them out. So I'm going to be using a screw tip bar, a long one so I can get maximum leverage, a steel hockey puck style tip, it's got a flat head on it, there you go, I don't know if you can see that. I'm going to be using a blending hammer as well. So the idea is to use a dolly, hammer and dolly technique or off dolly technique, put the bar in there, get the hockey puck tip to the centre of the dent from underneath so it's the deepest part, put some pressure on there, then using the hammer I'm going to be tapping dead centre and around it as well. So that's off dolly technique because you're tapping away from the dolly and that's on dolly technique. To be fair I'm trying any technique just to try and lift that dent up and then I can start shrinking it. So let's see how I do. You cannot believe how tough these dents are to move, bearing in mind these have to be fixed without cracking any paint, it can be so frustrating too as all I want to do is aggressively hammer and tap these flat but that is not the right way to do this. So after a few slow hours I did reduce these two dents, levelling the surrounding area but these are still nowhere near I need them to be. But push on a few more hours, loads of heat and many different tactics and I finally managed to lift these dents up. But it looks a right mess, but it's a good mess. Now the shrinking comes into play. Hours and hours of tapping with the carbon one from the inside, adding strength into the mangled area before tapping the outside flatter and lifting up the lows. It stretches and then I repeat the process again. This is looking promising now, a lot smoother but when I press that panel in, it pops and that is the stretched metal that I need to shrink. I'm going to let you watch this shrinking process in action from both sides. On the painted side you should be able to notice small impressions popping between aligned reflection. That's the shrinking in action. You'll also see the panel wave and that is the panel reacting to the heat which is part of the electronic process. It's definitely a steady part of any stretched repair but for me this technique is rewarding as you can see the damage literally disappear using only light taps and rubbing from the wand so it's also really enjoyable. I'm gaining a flatter panel all the time and these deep dents are now just one single and simple looking dent but it's not giving up just yet and that simple looking dent holds a super sharp centre. It might seem simple to push it out but if I did that the paint would 100% split. So I need to knock the perimeter of the dent down more and open up the centre. It pains me to do this as it means more shrinking but it has to be done. This magnifying glass is called a Monocle by Woodpecker UK Tools. This helps me see close up the fine imperfections in the panel without straining my eyes. The sharp centre is about 90% up as you can see, only a few deeper pits that need fixing with a needle tip on the bar. Roll on a few more hours and I was finally able to get the centre up. I was able to tap the full area flush and keep the strength in the panel. All of this shrinking process and fixing those two deep dents took around 10 full hours. I was so tired after these. To finish off a repair I gave the shrunk area a light sand down with 2000 grit and polished it up. I also polished the full door up and it looks amazing, you'll see this in a few seconds. All that's needed to be done now to complete this repair is to apply a new e-coat to the bare metal inside the door, let that dry and then straighten up and re-bond the internal door brace. Refit the door and then finally check the door electrics just to make sure that everything works as it should. Well that was definitely a challenge, certainly one of the biggest repairs that I've done, certainly technical anyway. I learnt a tonne from using the retention system and the electronic shrinking device and yeah, the results speak for themselves. What do you guys think? So thank you very much for watching until the end, I really do appreciate it. I will be back soon with some more videos, I've just videoed a yellow Audi front wing and this should be a really good video so I'm on with editing that at the moment. But for now, thanks very much for watching and cheers!