UNLIMITED Heat For Your Home | NO ELECTRIC NEEDED

Hey guys, today I'm gonna show you how to make a forever copper candle. This type of candle will burn indefinitely. You'll never have to replace the wick. You'll only need to refuel it and it will heat and light any area. So if you have a power outage, you'll not only have a lot of light, but you'll have heat. And this generates quite a bit more heat than some of the other candles I've produced in the past. This will actually heat a room. My other ones was for this greenhouse, just to keep the temperature above 32, but this can also heat an interior room to a very comfortable 60 to 70 degrees. So one of the first things you're gonna need is a glass jar with a metal lid. Now, this one I think was for pasta sauce, I believe. You can use a Mason jar, but the great thing about this system is this will wick your fuel from the very bottom of the container all the way up to where your torch is burning. So this will work great for, like I said, keeping those rooms warm and it's super simple to build. So let me do it step-by-step and show you how to make one of these copper forever candles. Now, the first thing you want is you want to calculate the distance of your outer piece of copper. So you want it sticking out of your jar just a couple of inches. So you'll need to mark it with a marker before you cut it and make sure you're gonna have about two inches out of the top from the very bottom. So let's mark that right there. And the simplest way I know how to cut copper without a power tool is using one of these devices right here. You can just simply put your copper in it, slowly tighten it as you go, and it will slowly, as you round it each time, it will slowly cut into your copper and slice a piece of copper off whatever size you need. All right, I'm gonna try to make sure this is in frame here, which is not too easy to do when your hands are occupied and you can't see the camera lens. All right, let's set this into our device. Make sure we're lined up with our cutting portion and just slowly tighten and twist your pipe so you can start a small cutting there. Now we've cut our piece there and let's test it and make sure it's gonna be about two inches out of the top of our jar, whatever, it's a mason jar, any type you use. So it looks like we're coming out close to two inches right there, and that's what we want. We want it to be a little bit raised up off of the top of this jar here. Next, we're gonna need to drill a hole in the top of this jar. All right, we're gonna drill a hole right in the center of the top of this jar. Now this is a five-eighths, excuse me, a seven-eighths bit, and that's about the right width for this. It's gonna be a really tight fit in the top of our jar. Just gonna carefully put that in there. All right, now this happens a lot with these jars when you're cutting them. You'll sometimes have a piece of the metal flake off. That's usually from putting too much pressure on it, but it's okay because I'm gonna use a special sealant, but let's just test it. Make sure it is a tight fit. Twist it around there. This is gonna be a super tight fit. Now we've got a little bit of a gap here, but I'm gonna fix that pretty easily with a product that you may or may not have heard of before is JB Weld. Now this product, you have two types of JB Weld. You have the type that takes a long time to cure, and you have the JB Quick Weld. This cures in about six to seven minutes, so make sure you order this. I'm gonna put the links in the description down below in the description of the video to all the products I'm using, but the JB Quick Weld will completely dry in about six to seven minutes. Now next, we wanna make sure that our carbon felt wick stays very saturated with our fuel, and this is carbon wick. You can find this on Amazon. Like I said, it's in the link in the description, but this specifically is what you wanna use. It will not burn up. It can take up to over 1,000 degrees in temperature, and so we wanna make sure that that felt, that carbon felt, has a lot of saturation from our chemicals, so we're gonna drill holes, three or four holes, down the full length of our tube that's gonna be inside the bottle. Now, I'm hoping you can see that clearly, but I've put in five holes along the full length of our pipe that's gonna be inside the bottle. That's gonna help feed our wick. Sometimes it's a little bit harder to take it from the bottom, so this keeps the wick moist and all the fuel moving to the top of the bottle. So I've tried a lot of different configurations. I've probably made six or seven of these just testing different ways, so that's one thing you need to make sure to do, and inside the bottle, make sure you drill your holes there. Now, as I may or may have not have mentioned, this is a 3 1⁄4 piece of copper, and the interior piece of pipe is gonna be a 1⁄2-inch piece that's gonna slip down in there, and we're gonna wrap our carbon felt. We want this coming out anywhere from one inch all the way up to five or six inches, depending on how big of a flame we get. However tall this is is gonna also determine how tall our flame is, but I'm gonna make this one just a couple of, maybe an inch and a half, two inches out of the top of our pipe, and so I'm gonna cut it about right there and make sure at the bottom that it's coming all the way there, and I'm just going to carefully mark this if I can find our pin there so I can cut it, and I'll carefully cut that again with our tool, cutting tool there. I'm just gonna come down on it a little bit. Make sure we're lined up properly there and just do some gentle rotations, and each time you just tighten this down just a little bit. Goes a little bit deeper into the copper, and of course it always falls off on me because I need an extra pair of hands. Slowly rotate it there. There it goes. Cut super easy in this copper, and be careful because sometimes these edges can be a little bit sharp. You might wanna take some sandpaper to them and soften them up there to make sure you don't accidentally cut yourself. Now again, let's test it and see how far into the pipe it goes. Good, it's sticking out a little bit. We're gonna leave it there just as we want it to. Now what we wanna do is we wanna cut a piece of carbon felt to completely wrap the inner carbon, and this is a little bit of the tricky part. I've had a lot of problems getting this just right, but if you want it, this one's a little bit short, so I'm gonna have to go get another piece of carbon felt, but we want it to the full length coming all the way to the top, maybe slightly above, all the way to the bottom, and we need to fit that all the way down into our outer pipe on our forever copper candle. Now one thing I forgot to mention is is on this piece of inner copper that's coming out of our three-quarter, we want to put in some small holes in this. These are about 1 1⁄16 of an inch, and so we're just gonna put a couple in there and put one, two on each side, and I think that's gonna help our flame. It's gonna go, the flame's gonna travel up the full length of the pipe, and actually at the top of the pipe, there'll be a flame coming out here. The product I'm using burns extremely clean, so the flame is nearly invisible, so I may have to go into a darkened area of the greenhouse to show you what a great product this is, and it's something you can buy relatively cheap. So let's cut our two holes here. Now having these holes in there is gonna help the height of the flame. Now I've left my sanding block in the garage, so I'll go back and get that later and do a little bit of sanding on this, because there are some sharp edges there, so just be careful. Make sure you do a good job of sanding these down so you don't cut yourself if you try to pull this out once it cools down. Never touch it when it's been burning, because this becomes red hot. Now I've found that wrapping the pipe with this carbon felt, it's a little bit on the thick side, so if you pull it, and you can stretch it a little bit, and it kind of thins it out and makes it a little bit easier to wrap your pipe with, because you're going into such a tight fit when you do the half into the 3 1⁄4, so just do a little bit of pulling on it, stretch it out so it's a little bit thinner before you cut it. Take your piece of copper and then carefully wrap it, and then get an idea of exactly where it needs to be cut at. You need to do it the full length of the pipe, because sometimes these tend to bunch a little bit as you're putting it in there, so just know that you'll probably need to cut off the excess once you're through. Okay, I'm just gonna carefully cut that. Okay, now I know where I want my cut to be made at. All right, so we've cut our piece of carbon felt, and it's a very snug fit. Once you pull it a little bit, it wraps, but you do have to do a little bit of pulling. You don't want it to be too big, because it'll bunch up in the larger pipe, so just do some pulling on it, kind of stretch it, and that thins it as well as makes it a little bit easier to get into our larger piece of pipe. So let's take this piece, and like I said, this is a little bit harder to do, but you kind of do this circular motion, twisting, and it takes a little bit of effort. You're gonna have to do this three or four times to get really good at it. Now, I will tell you, that is the most challenging part of making the Forever Copper Candle, is getting the felt just right, because you have a very tight fit from the half inch to the three quarter. I'm gonna recommend, and you can see, we've got our top here, I've drilled four holes, and just the part that's coming out of our three quarter piece. But at the top of this, we're gonna leave about half an inch of this sticking out, half an inch to maybe a quarter of an inch, but the more you leave sticking out, the more that's gonna wick, and the bigger the flame you're gonna have. So let's cut the top of this off, keep it about half an inch, gonna wrap it and make sure it's nice and tight. Next thing we're gonna do is we're gonna fuel our fuel reservoir, and so that wicking action, like I said before, all of these holes right here, all of the holes along there are gonna pull up our fuel into our flame, and the higher you have the sticking out with all the holes drilled in it, the higher your flame will be. I made three or four of these, and I'm gonna show you at the end of the video various heights and how well they burned. Again, I'll probably have to do it in a dark part of the greenhouse so you can actually see the flame because it's such a clean burn, you can't see the flame, it's invisible. Now I wanna talk just for a second about the type of fuel you can use in this. I don't think any type of vegetable oil's gonna work because I don't think it's gonna wick it up properly because we have such a deep reservoir. So I'd recommend, number one, denatured alcohol, and this is considered a fuel alcohol anyways. You can use, in a pinch, if you don't have denatured, you could use rubbing alcohols. Now this is a 70%, this is like a 99%. The higher percentage you have, the more clean the burn's gonna be. But even so, I would recommend that you only put this somewhere in your house where there's a way to exhaust the fumes because even the purest fuel might possibly add up to some toxic vapor. So like under a stove where you can vent it out, even if you don't have electricity, with that exhaust there, it can evaporate, rise up out of the house. Inside of a fireplace, if you don't have it on, if you have a gas fireplace, you can just set it in there and allow the heat to come out but the vapors to go out through the fireplace if you have the flue open just a little bit. So just remember, the most important thing is safety when it comes to this. I wouldn't recommend doing this unless you know exactly what you're doing and you understand the risk you're taking. So this is more of an emergency situation, not an everyday use thing. But one thing that you can buy, and I'll link it in the description as well, is a SimpliSafe system. It is a system that will alert you by phone if there's any problems such as water leaks or toxic fumes inside the house, any type of carbon monoxide or anything like that. I have one of those set up in my house and anytime something goes wrong, I get an instant notification on my phone. So I would absolutely recommend you have a Wi-Fi enabled or with a battery backup that will enable you if the power's out, if anything's wrong. But it will also sound even if the power's out, even if the Wi-Fi's out, you'll still hear an audible alarm from that type of system. If everything else is out, you'll still know if you've got toxic fumes inside of the room. Now next, we wanna mix our JB Weld Quick and we're going to mix equal parts of both tubes. And this is to prevent any spillage or any escaping of gases out of that little crevice there, out of this crack right here. We wanna seal both the top and the bottom of this. So we're just gonna put this in there and I'll mix it with a paint stick. Probably not enough, but we'll try it and see if that's enough. And like I said, this sets really quick. Amazing how it works compared to the standard one, which takes a number of hours. And we're gonna take our, something where we can just paint it on kind of in a, maybe a little bit of a sloppy method, but we're just gonna go around the edges of this, top and bottom. Like I said, we've got a little area there that cut open a little bit too large when I was using our paddle bit. So I'll just make sure that I go all the way around and put a little bit more in that little spot. Sometimes that happens and we'll just put a lot there. Then we'll go to the bottom and do the same thing. This is just a little bit of a safety issue to make sure that we don't splash anything out. Now we're gonna go from the bottom, do the same thing down here. And you might actually use your paint stick to apply it if you have a large gap like that. A little bit messy, but it's not, it doesn't have to be perfect unless you're a perfectionist, okay? We've got it done on the top and the bottom. We're gonna put it back into our jar and we're gonna do a little bit of work on our wick here. It's a little bit, needs to be wrapped a little bit tighter, maybe a little bit more cutting on it. But once the wick starts working, we'll be able to pull all of the fuel all the way from the bottom, all the way out. A lot of wicks will not do that. Some of the ones you've seen online are probably not gonna work as well, but this type of, once that inner pipe is heated up, it's gonna pull out quite nicely all the way to the bottom in this large reservoir of fuel. Now while I'm waiting for this one to completely dry with a JB weld, I've got three that I made previously and I feel like this one works fine. There's no issues with it, but I made the copper pipe too short. It will light relatively easily. But one thing I've discovered, now it's very hard to see the flame, but it is burning. And I'll take these into a darkened area and show you on camera. But they're easy to light once it starts the wicking process until the wicking process has started. You may actually have to take something like an eye dropper, take some of your product and drop it around the top and then try to light it. Now, another thing is once this pipe gets really hot, once this inner pipe gets hot, it's gonna really, this one right here puts out a huge amount of heat. And I'm gonna, like I said, I'll show you that in just a second. But this one is still burning. The flame is burning so pure that you can't see it. That's the denatured alcohol. The less pure your fuel is, the more you'll see a yellow flame. But this one, like I said, so we're looking at about a 300 degree temperature right there. It's a little bit hard for me to hold it in just the right spot while looking at the camera, but it's a little bit over 300 degrees. It's like I've seen it hit 350 a couple of times. But anyways, there is a flame there, but it's burning fairly pure and you just can't see it. I'll try to put something behind it. Maybe, there you go. With a black background, you can see just a little bit better, but yes, it is burning. And as that center piece of copper pipe heats up, you're gonna see this flame get bigger and it will put out quite a bit more heat. Now, this is the second one I made. And like I said before, you sometimes have to prime it a little bit so you can put it just a few drops of your fuel right at the top of your copper, excuse me, at the top of your carbon felt, is what I'm trying to say. Now, let's light this one. We've got our here on there. And this one to the right is still burning. And sometimes if you try to light this with a match, it's not gonna work very easy. You really need a kitchen torch to do this. Now, this one's burning, but as that heats up in that center piece, the flame's gonna get bigger. When I show you the third one, you'll be amazed at what the size of the flame is. But this flame is coming up to about here. And as it heats up, the flame will get even taller. Now, it's really hard to see, but I'll hold some of this felt behind it so you can kind of get a better idea. There is a flame running up, at least right, right when we first started, it's about halfway up and it'll work its way up all the way to the top, but it is burning. And this one puts out quite a bit of heat compared to the two on the left. This one's putting out probably 10 times as hot. I'm gonna get my thermometer here to see if I can get it to focus in just the right spot. We have a small spot to hit. Trying to get this just right. I'm gonna take one of the lunchroom trays. So we'll have a dark background so maybe you can see it just a little bit better. Now, the flame is going almost to the very top and it's actually coming out of the top. There's quite a bit of heat being generated there. And this one, the third one I made that has the longer tube, the inner tube, is quite a bit hotter. This could heat a room very quickly up to 60 degrees if you were in a 20 to 30 degree situation. So this one puts out a lot of heat. I'm gonna try to put a dark background so you can see that each one of these are burning. And this one that I started first on my far right, it's starting to pick, the flame is starting to pick up and it's getting very hot as well as the second one. But the third one, there's no comparison. This one puts out a massive amount of heat and I believe this is the one if you were in an emergency situation, you would want this long extended center copper tube. This would heat a room quickly. The other two are great for my greenhouse. I can leave them overnight and keep my greenhouse from going into the freezing zone easily. So there's still a lot of light in the greenhouse. So I brought this into an area that's a little bit darker so you can see the flame coming out. And it, again, I can already feel the difference in this small room, the area where I work on some other type of bonsai, the small mamey and show hen. But it puts out a lot of heat and this will burn for a long time on that reservoir heat. It is super simple to put together but you can see that it works great. And the other one I'm gonna bring in here next, this is burning the denatured alcohol, very clean burn. You can see the blue flame there but I'm gonna bring another one in, this burning alcohol that has less purity and you can tell the difference in the flame. Now this is the second one I've put together and this was using 70% alcohol. And again, you can tell the flame is not quite as pure and clean, but it is burning nicely. It's putting out a great flame. So these can be put together in less than 10 minutes in an emergency if you have the right products. You have the copper, you have an empty jar, you have the tools to put them together and everything I'll put in the description. But this again has about an inch and a half, two inch piece sticking out as opposed to the other one which had a five to six inch piece which put out a lot more heat. So the shorter your inner tube is, the smaller your flame's gonna be. But still this could definitely keep the frost out of my greenhouse or if you're in a small room, it could definitely warm it up a little. Not as much as the previous one, the five to six inch inner copper tube but this one will work in a pinch if all you have is some short pieces of copper. Now this is actually the first one of these I ever built and it has a very, very small piece of inner copper sticking up. Maybe only about a quarter of an inch above the outer copper. It's still working great, there's no issues with it but it was the first one I put together and I had not experimented very much but this one also puts out a good bit of heat. I wanna give credit where credit is due because this idea did not come to me in a dream. This was actually put together by Robert Murray Smith. He's a British chap who has a channel and I consider him to be a mechanical genius. He has some of the most interesting videos so I would highly recommend you go to his channel, Robert Murray Smith. He has just video after video of things that is just amazing to me and I love to watch his videos. But anyways, this is the first one I ever built and it wasn't that hard but I would say that the longer inner copper tube is gonna give you a lot more heat. This works fine and this also has a less pure form of alcohol and you can see there's more of a yellow burn. So denatured alcohol, the pure form, this is the one you'd wanna go with. Now in the past, I made some of these flower pot heaters for my greenhouse just to keep it warm overnight but I'll show you a way you can do this. With this particular one, let's relight it. And again, a match is probably not gonna light this well for you because you really need some good heat and once you get it lit, you're good. But I just don't think a match is gonna help you so having one of these kitchen torches, and again, I'll link it in the description, is gonna work a lot better. The flame, again, you can't really see it because there's so much light in the greenhouse here but it appears very hot. But let's carefully set the flower pot on top of it. Try not to knock it over there. I've got some of these deck hardware from where I built the deck. Nice and hot. Now something like this, a metal, you can capture more heat. You can use one of these metal, I believe this was a utensil holder so you can just put that up there. So you have heat being captured here and slowly radiating out. Same thing up here. It'll get really hot really quick. I can feel heat building. I'm gonna do some more temperature testing there and show that on screen or maybe in the thumbnail. But again, that's a great way to capture heat and help radiate it out into my greenhouse or in an emergency situation somewhere like that. All right, let's do some temperature test and we've only been burning this for just a few minutes. Let's see what's happening here. And so over time, this entire flower pot is gonna capture that heat and slowly radiate it out into the room. Now I'll put the link up above to the flower pot heaters I've done in the past, but this one is really starting to heat up well. This had a lot of moisture in it previously so that is not smoke coming off of it. That's actually steam from moisture that was inside the flower pot because previously I used this as a filtration video. It's a water filtration video that I put together. And so that's why there's so much moisture inside of this pot because of that video and I'll put that video right here up above. But again, this is just steam coming off the pot, all the moisture escaping from that pot. So let's do one last temperature check right here on the copper pipe. Amazingly, I've seen over 900 degrees. So this candle heater lighter gets extremely hot. Sometimes you don't see the flame, you don't realize it's lit if you're using a really pure alcohol. So just be careful with that because sometimes you won't even see it there. All right, so this last one I just built and this is the one I built at the beginning of the video. Again, I've primed it by putting some of our fuel right here around the carbon felt. I've poured a little bit in there. So when we first light it, we're gonna see a little bit of the debris or the impurities in the carbon felt burning off. Now, even though our fuel is way down here at the bottom, that slow wicking action will slowly work the fuel all the way up to the flame. This flame will become a little bit less yellow, but it's still gonna be more yellow because I'm using, again, the rubbing alcohol rather than denatured alcohol. Now, lastly, I've added the stainless steel mesh. And this is just basically a tuna can, but it is getting red hot on that tuna can. I'll show you exactly how hot it is just by putting a little bit of water up there. So it is extremely hot. And I think the can may crack, it's gotten so hot. But anyways, yeah, that's one of those things that you can do. You can put some stainless steel mesh to kind of capture and radiate the heat out. Also, you can put a top on it to catch some of the heat. Try not to put too much water on it, or you might have a little bit of a steam explosion there. But anyways, that's another thing you can do is by using the stainless steel mesh. I got this off Amazon. And again, I'll put a link to everything I've used in this video, except for the copper pipe. I think it's too expensive to buy online. I think you're much better off getting that from a hardware store. So guys, I really appreciate you watching. And if you have any questions about this video or any previous video, please become a public subscriber first because I always put those questions to the front of the line if you're a public subscriber. I get so many videos during the day, it's just hard to answer them all. I'll be spending two or three hours a day answering and responding and giving my opinion about those questions. So again, safety is paramount with this. If you are not experienced with dealing with this type of stuff, don't do this. So just remember, safety is number one above everything else. So guys, have a great day.