Rug Spa Build Part 2: Heavy-Duty & Long-Lasting!

hello there guys welcome to part two of my rug Spar build series um in this part I'm going to be building the framework and the floor for cleaning the rugs in so this will be a timber frame construction primarily built from uh 2x4 treated Timber treated for rock so it's shouldn't Rock but I'm going to make every attempt possible to make it as water resistant and watertight so it lasts for a long time now I got my big table saw out ready for cutting his really really long lengths of Timber I got 4.2 M lengths in the end there's my really cool tool box tool storage unit if you haven't seen that already now it is going to be 4 M by 3.7 M and these Timbers were really really quite long so I just needed to cut a couple of these down using the hand saww cuz I just didn't really have the space it was a bit too end heavy for me to be able to cut this on the table to but then I get much quicker using I'm using 300 mm uh 300 mm centers for the joists and I think there was 10 of these going in so there a bit Overkill but I want to do this once and do it right don't want to have to come back and redo things now I had to show you this really cool vacuum cleaner that I bought I really wish I'd bought this sooner but it's like a little portable vacuum cleaner which you can also Mount Read instructions before using this Appliance yeah well I won't be doing that I'll leave a link to this in the description box below but you can mount this to the wall um in your Workshop or or wherever you might be using it it's it's really really handy um you can store literally everything inside this little unit um it's got a little bag underneath there where you can store the vacuum hose okay so that is the whole kit all attached to the wall there nice nice and neat and out of the way it's got storage space for absolutely everything in there it's really really handy um even has this little remote that you can start and stop it wirelessly so when you're working on a machine say for instance and you have this attached to the machine like I'm doing here you can literally press this little button and it will start up um so you don't have to keep going backwards and forwards now it would have helped if I hadn't have broken the sort of um suction attachment on my saw years ago I would have collected the sword that's a lot better but uh yeah you can see it's got a really really long hose um perfect for you know in like I said in your Workshop sucking up all the dust and stuff like that it's wet and dry vacuum so any water spillages or anything as well it will suck it up and and look at that you know that's all all you need [Music] really now I spent about 2 there's about 200 £50 worth of screws that have gone into this all stainless steel cuz I the mistake I did had before was I built the frame from screws that weren't stainless Steels which meant when I came to take it apart all the screws had just rusted and they just broke so it's all going to be completely built from stainless steel screws all pre-drilled before putting them in because obiously just get stuck I'd hate to think how many actual screws I I ended up putting into this Frame but um yeah it was a lot [Music] a [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] now I'm screwing these joist from the inside rather than the outside because I want to be able to take this apart in the future and if I've got all the screws on the other side then it's going to obviously make it difficult to take it apart um so yeah I just thought I'd try and make things a little bit easier for myself and and screw those on the inside of the frame now this is where I'm going to raise it up and get the angle that I want I'm not 100% sure what that angle is but it's probably around 5° which should just be enough of a slope for the water to drain off down to the bottom end of the wash pit [Music] now in order to fit the frame to the wall I'm going to use these really really handy masonry bolts or concrete bolts or Mason screws whatever you want to call it but it's just a big thick screw that just you can screw directly into concrete brick masonry of all types um you literally you don't need any plugs or anything you just drill a hole straight through to the required depth and thick width and then that just screws straight in um it's they're really great [Music] oh [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Applause] all [Music] [Music] now you're probably wondering what are all these little bits of wood for um and in hid sight I probably would have just done one long strip down each side rather than cut all these individual pieces of wood but I'm building a frame within the frame because my flooring I want to sit on top of the frame and not sandwiched in between the the walls of the timber frame and the um base of the timber frame you see what I mean so when I need to replace the plywood flooring which I will be installing in a bit I can just unscrew the plywood flooring and lift it up rather than having to take all the sides apart as well so that's why I'm building this inner frame to hold the plywood flooring and the outer frame is going to be for stacking the walls on top when I raise raise the height of the wall like I said in hindsight I wish I had done this just built a frame within a frame essentially and then done the joist but this was kind of after thought never mind [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] now I'm just wedging up the side which is not fixed against the wall so I can get my level and once I've got things as level as possible I am going to be cutting and fitting a lot of these little feet to this side of the frame now this is going to hold the level that I want so these have to be cut all different lengths as you go all the way to the [Music] end and uh yeah this is just going to support the frame now I'm just fitting this one side in at the moment but you'll see later on just how many of these little feet that I put in to hold everything up [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] what [Music] [Music] f [Music] w [Music] w [Music] [Music] [Music] now this job is is I will be taping the top of each and every single joist and Noggin and foot in order to prevent the water if any water does get in through the floor and lands on top of these joists it should just run off the top of this sort of damp proof course essentially and then drip onto the floor this should increase the lifespan of the joist and prevent them from rotting like I said before I want to do this once and right the first time so I never have to do it [Applause] [Music] again okay at this point I am now cutting the bits of Timber for the sides uh for the wall um I'm going to go up two level [Music] 2x4 using big 150 mm stainless steel screws to screw this down into the frame and this is going to wrap around the outside and like I said this is going to be this is the first level and then I'll do another level this is just to contain as much of the water inside the wash pit as [Music] [Music] possible okay now for the flooring so I'm using 18 mm marine plywood now you have to use a special plywood not just any old wood if you're going to build a floor that's going to get wet um this is special wood that's been impregnated with a waterproof glue now this just protects the wood from water doesn't mean that you can just put water straight in there you still need to protect the wood after but it just helps the wood um prevent water getting inside and if it gets inside plywood it then starts splitting the the leaves of the wood apart which is not good so yeah if you're going to build a floor out of plywood make sure you use Marine ply and again I've pre-drilled and pil hold the holes in the floor and I'm using um 40 mm stainless still screws to screw this down [Music] [Music] [Music] sh yeah [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] it [Music] [Music] okay guys that's the finished floor now I just need to water seal it put water sealing strips in tank it and uh yeah then put the pool ler on and it's ready to rock and roll see you in part three