We traveled all the way to the far west of China. Back in the Tang Dynasty, the poet Cen Shen once served in the army here in Beiting, and wrote famous poems like:
"The north wind sweeps the earth, bending white grass, By August in these northern skies, snow begins to fall. Suddenly, like a spring breeze overnight, Thousands upon thousands of pear trees bloom."
Join us to uncover the forgotten stories of China's distant frontiers and experience the vast beauty of its wild deserts.
In this episode, we head to far western China
to explore an ancient city on the Silk Road.
Sitting between the wild desert and snow-capped mountains,
this ancient site used to be a long forgotten place,
now just some buried history.
Because for a long time, locals only called this the Broken City.
I set out to search for the stories behind these ruins
and I want to see those treasures that have been left there over thousands of years.
Hey guys, welcome back.
This is our first trip in 2025.
Today we're in Jimusar.
It's a city from far west of China.
What I'm on right now is called Beitingduhufu.
About 1,000 years ago,
this place was the largest city
around the whole north and west of Tianshan Mountains.
Now the new city, the modern city of Jimusar,
has moved about 10 kilometers south of this place.
As a crucial stop along the northern road of the Silk Road,
Beiting was once a military and an administrative center.
Stretching from Suiyecheng in Kyrgyzstan
all the way to northeastern edge of the Tianshan Mountains.
Starting from Han Dynasty,
this area had been a key battleground
between the central plains and nomadic tribes.
By 702, Tang Dynasty set up the Beitingduhufu
as the ruins that we see here today.
From the south gate to the east gate here,
which took us about 30 minutes.
And as you can see,
the east gate only remains a rammed earth mount behind me.
And there would have been some wooden structures on top
serving as a watchtower before.
Right below the watchtower was the barracks.
Deeper inside lay the inner part of the Beiting city.
It was the office and living quarters of the generals.
Well, I thought I saw the hole on one side of the mount
the tour guide just mentioned to us
the local farmers here,
they dug it to store their supplies or their livestock in it
because the rammed earth wall was pretty thick and sturdy
and no one really knows what this mount was originally used for.
For thousands of years,
Beiting was always the first and most crucial outpost
get to the rich oasis cities from the north.
That's also the most reasonable explanation
why they hold this spot,
set up troops here and started farming
to support life and production in this area.
The city they built thrived for nearly a century,
but it faded with the decline of the Tang dynasty.
Over time, it changed hands, got new names
and eventually turns out to be this broken city.
For decades,
archaeologists have been uncovering its past.
In 2016, some coins and patterned floor tiles
were found out among the ruins.
The story about Beiting slowly back to light.
The heart of Beiting city spans 1.5 square kilometers.
The outer city stretches 1.5 kilometers north to south
and one kilometer east to west.
It's divided into inner and outer sections.
They are both equipped with moats and defensive towers.
There is a map of this city
and we just came from the south gate of this city
and all the way to the east watchtower is the gate.
Now we're heading to the north gate of the inner city.
Beiting city wasn't built all at once.
It expanded outwards over time.
The inner city housed the government offices
while the outer city had residential and commercial areas
followed by the layout of Chang'an.
Same goes for the city gate.
I'm standing between those two moats
and this is the area for the gate
and we can get pretty close to the wall.
Look at the texture.
It was built layer by layer like stack one above one
by using those rammed earth
and on that wall there is a wall of this kind of vertical grooves.
They are used to place the wooden pillars
to support the whole wooden structure of this gate.
There are a row of grooves for seven large pillars on the north gate
much like the Danfeng gate in the town capital.
The more pillars the grander and more prestigious the gate.
Since one side is sheltered from the wind
the grooves remain visible.
Archaeologists have also found some Tang dynasty lotus pattern tiles here
which were commonly used by the royal family
and high-ranking officials as symbols of status.
For a hundred years
soldiers were routed every four years from across the empire
then recruited locally to guard this remote western frontier
only for it to end as a lost city.
After the fall of Beiting
the Huihu tribes established their capital in Gaochang
an ancient area in today's Turpan
making Beiting their alternate capital.
This is what remains of a Huihu Buddhist temple built by Gaochang royalty.
By the 14th century
religious conflicts brought the destruction of those statues.
After that it had been buried in sand for hundreds of years.
And this is not the end of the story.
There is saying that a pathway hidden in the mountain was once filled with gold.
I need to know how to get there
and whether it could be the reason why these ancient cities were spotted here.
So we're looking for something older to be closer to the answer.
Yeah we just drove up to here
it's like a kind of a hill
a relatively higher spot
look at this view
on this side there is a river valley down below
the water is going to flow down from the Tianshan mountains
just right in front of us
so based on this
the ruins that we're looking for
should be really close ahead of us.
In the Tang dynasty
the area where Beiting city located was called Jinman county
but over 600 years earlier in the Han dynasty
a military garrison was already stationed here
known as Jinpu
which was recorded as Jinman
due to pronunciation changes by the Tang era
meaning the city of gold.
Both cities were built along the same river
and I think climate changes over two millennia
like shifting water levels
made people move and settle in different locations.
I just arrived at the south part of the ruins
with the ground covered in snow
there wasn't too much to see on the surface
but some bricks and pottery shards from Han dynasty
have been unearthed here.
So we just drove around to another side of this ruin
and feels like if without those kind of monuments
marking the location here
or this wire fence surrounding it
I just wouldn't be able to tell it right away
because all you can see here is farmland
and covered by snow
and actually there are some pretty interesting research
on where the city name
the current city name Jimusar comes from.
Long story short
it was likely inspired by this ruin
which was once called Jinpu city over 2,000 years ago.
If we say Jinman quickly
it sounds like Jimu
Sar stand for a city
and over the centuries
as pronunciation changes
and different ethnic groups mixed here
the name eventually became Jimusar.
So just now I turned off onto a dirt track
it lead us down to be in this river valley
there's no water now
but as it gets warmer
the water
the snow will melt and flow down in this way
and if we keep going upstream
we'll get into the entrance of the Tianshan mountain
over that mountain there is another famous city
Turpan
and you will probably have no snow on that side
but it's a super hot city in summer
it can reach up to 50 degrees celsius in summer
From north to south along the river valley
there is Beiting city from the Tang dynasty
Jinman city from the Han dynasty
and nomadic tribes in the mountains
all the way through the ancient Tianshan path to Turpan
they were all centers of power
the snow mountains melt water made life possible here
but setting up cities
also meant controlling a key route
and the gold hidden in the mountains
Hello, big sister
Is the entrance to the ancient road from here?
Do you want to ride in?
Can I ride in now?
It's been snowing a lot in the last two days
Do you know how long it takes to get from here to there?
To get there
From here to Turpan
Two and a half days
On foot
Riding a motorcycle or riding a horse for a day
Early in the morning
Oh
Early in the morning
I heard there's gold in there, did you know?
Three bridges
There's a place in our wild wolf valley
You come in and sit
It's so cold
Where did you go?
I just rode my bike to play
This equipment
I know
It fell over there
I'm just looking at your clothes
Oh, it's so hot
Then your bike fell, are you okay?
It's okay, it's okay, this is protection
You must have worn too little
A little
I didn't expect it to be so cold
The owner invited me inside
and offered me some hot water
She told me her family has been rescuing wolves for over 20 years
starting with her parents
Today, more than 200 wolves live in this valley
This ancient trail through the Tianshan Mountains
has now become a popular trekking route
On horseback, it takes just one day to reach Turpan
Along the way, there are ancient rock carvings
old relay station ruins
and places where travelers
like traders, herders, and messengers
once stopped to rest and eat
They also found stolen tools here
probably used to crush gold ore
After separating in nearby streams
the gold was sent north
and stored in the Jinman city