聰明旅行家 第一季 1080P 中文字幕 聰明旅行家.S04E02.愛登堡和蘇格蘭 中文字幕

Hi, I'm Rudy Maxa, trekking through the Scottish countryside. Now, you can take the high road or you can take the low road. It doesn't matter, just as long as you come along. This time, we're visiting Edinburgh in Scotland on Smart Travels. Smart Travels is a grand tour of the old world. The people, places, sights and distinctly European flavors. Our host is travel writer and columnist Rudy Maxa, Public Radio's original savvy traveler. Now, tips, trips and secret places on Smart Travels. Like a highland rogue emerging from the mist, Scotland catches you off guard. It's an alluring, eerie landscape, punctuated by tranquil lakes, seductive glens and wild beauty. It's fine whiskey aged to perfection, full of flavor, well balanced but with a dangerous edge. It's a noble statesman seasoned by invasions and independence, upheavals and intrigues. Whether you come for the scenery, the history or just a few rounds of golf, you'll soon feel right at home in this friendly, feisty country. Here, you can climb the ramparts of Edinburgh Castle, stroll the battlefields of Braveheart and sail the legendary Loch Lomond. And you can wash it all down with some of the best whiskey in the world. Just over half the size of England, Scotland seems a world away from its southern neighbor. This trip we start in Edinburgh, head to St. Andrew's Golf Course, then to historic Stirling of Braveheart fame, and we finish on the bonny banks of Loch Lomond. First time visitors never fail to be awed by Edinburgh. It's a wonderful weave of elegant stone, spirited culture and gripping history. The city grew up on the top of a series of extinct volcanoes and rocky crags. In the words of Robert Louis Stevenson, no situation could be more commanding for the head of a kingdom, none better chosen for noble prospects. You can see much of Edinburgh on foot, and the obvious place to start is at Edinburgh Castle. This conspicuous monument, whose foundations go back a thousand years, is a tribute to the city's glorious, romantic and often bloody past. From the 11th to 16th centuries, the castle was the seat of Scottish royalty. It's watched over the long and complicated struggles between Scotland and England. In the royal apartments, Mary Queen of Scots gave birth to the son who would become James VI of Scotland and James I of England. Mary's Catholic religion and her claim to the English throne posed a threat to her cousin Elizabeth I of England. The English government imprisoned Mary for years, and she was ultimately beheaded. Across the courtyard, the Great Hall was built as the ceremonial gathering place for the castle, and its spectacular hammer-beam ceiling was constructed without a single nail. Sometimes the king would excuse himself early from dinner and hide behind this iron-barred listening grate to eavesdrop on his courtiers. If he didn't like what he heard, well,it was off with their heads. When Oliver Cromwell captured the castle in 1650, he converted this enormous space to soldiers' barracks, and it stayed that way for 200 years. The British are renowned for their love of dogs, and beginning in the 1840s, the soldiers were allowed to bury their pets and company mascots in this little cemetery. Here lie such loyal favorites as Winkle,dear and faithful friend, and Scamp,faithful chum. As you leave the castle, descend the eerie prison vaults to recall the sights and sounds of captives once held here. We are neither of us here of our own accord, and we have to make the best of it. But I cannot help a reasonable dislike of loud snow. During the 18th and 19th centuries, the Brits imprisoned sailors from a variety of countries, including American crewmen who sailed with John Paul Jones as well as Frenchmen who fought during the Napoleonic Wars. It's hard to imagine Scotland without thinking of the checkered cloth called tartan. This colorful wool was worn by the clans that lived in the Scottish Highlands as far back as the 12th century. What is the difference between a tartan and just a plaid? You could say a tartan is a plaid, but a plaid's not a tartan. To be a tartan, it has to be properly registered by the Scottish National Tartan Society. It's all to do with the thread count, the actual lines and the spaces between those lines. There came a time when kilts were outlawed? Yeah,unfortunately. In 1745,the English saw that the kilt and the tartan gave people too much identity and unity, and they really wanted to split that up and make people sorry forever trying to,you know, mess with the English sort of thing. And how long did that last? About 50 years. I'm not afraid to wear a kilt. Should I put on a kilt? I think you should put on a kilt, absolutely. The kilt has always been the most masculine skirt. I mean,the Greeks and the Romans wore them,but they were much shorter, and so that's why kilts have probably lasted, because they are still very masculine, even in modern age. Excellent. What do you think? That's great legs. Good calves. That's the thing, most men do have good legs. But now,do you feel quite liberated? I do. I feel fabulous. Nice and comfortable,isn't it? Beginning in the late 1700s, wealthy landowners forced more and more rural Scots from their homes, and huge waves of emigrants left this country for North America and Australia. If you had relatives who came from Scotland, you might want to do a little genealogical research while visiting. It could be a great detective adventure. But before you come, try to do as much background work as possible. Check out family documents, talk with older relatives, and look up records in your own country. There are lots of different genealogy resources. Libraries and the Internet are good places to start. You can also hire a professional researcher. We have some of the best records in the world here in Scotland. So you would ask them,I guess, for everything they know about their family history, and then what do you do as a trained genealogist? We take whatever bones they can give to us and flesh out the bones. We have statutory registers, which are the state records going back to 1855, and then we have the records from the churches going back to 1553. So you've done research for a family. What do you present that family? Normally they would get a family tree showing all the generations that we'd researched, and also full transcripts of all the certificates, births, marriages, and deaths, parish registers, census returns, that we had used as tools in the investigation. Scots were very meticulous, weren't they? You have it, yes, exactly. After a day of trekking through medieval streets, I like to kick back in one of Scotland's many spa hotels. Sitting in the shadow of Edinburgh Castle, the Sheraton Grand offers great city views. But the pride of the hotel is the spa, which occupies six floors. I head straight for the heat and steam therapies, the fitness studio, and holistic treatments from around the world. Good evening. Welcome to the witchery, ghosts and gore tour. The streets of Edinburgh are steeped in legends of murder, mystery and ghostly happenings. I've come back from the spirit world tonight to take you around Edinburgh's old town and tell you stories about witchcraft and hangings and murders and filth and disease and depravity. To see this city's spooky side, proceed, with caution, to one of the ghost walk tours that takes place most evenings on the Royal Mile. No, most witches in Edinburgh today actually look exactly, and I do mean exactly, like you! Witch! Witch! Witch! Burn her! Burn her! Witch! Witch! Burn her! Burn her! He's keen, isn't he? Wandering the narrow passageways of the old town, the guide provides gruesome tales of the 17th century witch burning and the terrible plague epidemic. Now, it was these overcrowded and unhygienic conditions that allowed Edinburgh's greatest killer to spread so easily. And the killer was, of course, not a person, but the plague, the Black Death. While some tours are truly eerie, our guide had a more humorous take on Edinburgh's macabre past. All right, let's have this hand off. Now, there's going to be a lot of blood spray here, so William is going to screen you all from the jets of blood. Now, on three, then. Here we go. One. Two. Three. We're very sorry. Seven miles south of Edinburgh, in the pretty town of Roslin, rests one of the more mysterious buildings in Scotland. The Roslin Chapel, built in the late 15th century, has been described as an exquisite cathedral in miniature. Filled with spectacular carvings, including biblical themes and pagan symbols, the chapel's construction raised eyebrows in late medieval Scotland. It's been associated with the Knights Templar, a military religious order formed during the Crusades to protect pilgrims on their way to Jerusalem. Several books, including the popular novel The Da Vinci Code, have linked the chapel to the Holy Grail. The bewildering array of carvings include some of the best in Europe, with images not found in any other 15th century chapel. The Apprentice Pillar is the most famous part of this chapel. Legend holds that while the master mason was abroad, his apprentice carved this pillar. Upon his return, the master became furious at the obvious talent displayed by his pupil, and the jealous master wound up murdering the lad. We've crossed the Firth of Forth and arrived in the seaside town of St. Andrews. St. Andrews is known around the world as the birthplace of golf. It was right here that the rules were established for that time-honored activity of chasing a little ball across a large field in order to tap it into a small hole. Back in the 1400s, bored nobles entertained themselves using a stick or primitive club to hit pebbles around a natural course of sand dunes and rabbit holes. If you're a golfer, this is really like making a trip to Mecca, isn't it? Oh, certainly. I mean, there's a couple of places in the world that every golfer would like to play in their golfing lifetime. Augusta is one. Maybe Pebble Beach. And certainly St. Andrews is one of those. And what makes the St. Andrews golf courses so challenging to veteran golfers? It's Lynx golf. It's the way golf was originally played. It's all bump and run golf, okay? Because you can feel the breeze as it is now. So the ball, you don't want to get the ball in the air too much, okay? I think in the States and a lot of other countries, it's an air game. In Scotland, it's one that's played pretty much on the ground as much as you can. So do you have to be professional to even dare to come play here? Certainly not. I think the courses are still owned by the people of the town. But what if you're not a very good player? Again, it doesn't matter. They have a range of golf courses. Okay. All right? Good. Okay. Watch your feet. A little bit closer together. That's it. Nice, solid base. Hold it there. Okay. Good swing. Easy game, isn't it? You can practice your golf swing and more at the Glen Eagles Resort about an hour west of St. Andrews in the Perthshire region. Britain's greatest golf hotel stands on its own 830-acre estate. This is a true resort in the traditional style, but it still has a refreshingly relaxed and unstarchy manner. And it's a great place to try your hand at some traditional Scottish recreation. Pull. Bring your hand back there. That's it. I'm interested in a little target practice, so I've signed up for a clay shooting lesson. Now, the big thing, Rudy, when you are about to shoot the bolting rabbit is to keep your eye on the ball to start with, and then just as it crosses the front of us, look ahead of it. That's it. Gun's live. Pull. Excellent shot. Well done. Next up is a falconry lesson. This is one of the oldest and most aristocratic sports. Equipped with a sturdy falconer's glove, you can learn the art of handling these magnificent birds. Do I have to tighten this right now? No, that's fine. It goes on the left hand. It goes back to medieval times, the tradition of wearing the glove on the left hand when a knight would keep his sword arm free. Of course. My sword arm is free. Excellent. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to step, Scott, back onto your glove. These, if I can turn you round, these are the jesses. They're two leather straps. They go under your thumb, back through your middle fingers. You shut your hand up like a fist and just relax your elbow. That's fine. OK. Scott, pay attention, please. Much better. That's perfect. All right. Perthshire is often described as the heart of Scotland, and it offers some of the most evocative scenery in the country. This was once a rough and tumble place, overrun with the highland robbers and cattle rustlers who were a feared and formidable force in the Middle Ages. It was out of this rugged setting that the distillation of single malt whiskey developed. A tour of one of Scotland's distilleries tops the must-see list for many visitors. Now, malt whiskey has just three ingredients, and these are malted barley, yeast and water. Here in Aberfeldy, you can drop by the Dewar's Distillery to learn how the potent brew is concocted. Now, in here, we mash seven tons of grist at a time, along with about 33,000 liters of water. The origins of whiskey distilling in Scotland are a bit hazy, but historians believe that distilling practices began as far back as the early 1500s. Did you know that the term scotch is internationally protected? So in order to carry that label, a whiskey has to be produced right here in this country. Scotland's history stretches far back to prehistoric times. Here at the Scottish Crannog Centre in Kenmore, you can learn how the early inhabitants of this area lived 5,000 years ago. A crannog is a type of ancient dwelling found throughout Scotland and Ireland. They were built out in the water as defensive homesteads. Most crannogs are circular structures that appear to have been built as individual homes to accommodate extended families. They were usually built in shallow lakes about 100 meters from shore and were made of layers of wood and stone, and they often represented symbols of power and wealth. We think something like 20 or even 30 people lived here. We don't know exactly because we can't find their bones, but we know the animals were in the crannog with them, cows, sheep and goats, but not the size you'd expect now, smaller animals. And they also found wild boar bones, so hopefully there's smoky bacon for breakfast. Several hundred crannogs have been discovered so far in Scotland, although only a few have been studied. So we're safer out here. We're very visible, but actually we can see a long way. You can see up to the tops of the mountains, and you can see boats coming. And we're living out here because the main access route is the water. You can get across to Europe if you stay in your boat long enough from here, past Dundee and out across the sea. The ocean of rolling pastures and gentle hills around Stirling once provided a theater for battles that changed the destiny of Scotland. Holding court over its ancient town, impressive Stirling Castle serves as a focal point for Scotland's turbulent history. In the 13th century, Edward I of England wanted to rule over a united kingdom of England, Scotland and Wales. He demanded that the Scots pay homage to the English throne, but the Scotsmen rebelled. At the Battle of Stirling Bridge, William Wallace, of Braveheart fame, defeated the English and drove them from the area. Wallace was made guardian of the realm and carried the war into northern England. But his efforts were hampered by the reluctance of the Scottish nobility to follow a leader of lesser social standing. With a price on his head, Wallace was eventually betrayed. He was taken to London where he was tortured and executed. Robert the Bruce replaced Wallace as Scotland's guardian. Here at Bannockburn, just outside Stirling, the nobleman changed Scottish history With his army of 6,000 men, Robert the Bruce was outnumbered three to one by the English, but the determined Scots proved victorious. Unfortunately, the Pope excommunicated Robert and the royal houses of Europe refused to recognize his sovereignty. Finally, in 1328, a peace treaty was signed, launching a brief but satisfying period of independence for Scotland. Now, if luxury resorts aren't in your budget or you just prefer the backpacker approach to travel, check out the Willie Wallace Hostel in downtown Stirling. We cater mainly for international backpackers who are traveling around Scotland and want a good price accommodation, somewhere to stay. At this clean, colorful hostel, you can meet other travelers and join in group meals. And the hostelers make history fun with beds named for Scottish heroes and with drinking games. We have a braveheart game where we all gather around the TV, watch the movie, and drink lots of beer according to certain set rules. So when Scotland is mentioned, you gotta hold up your drink and when Wallace kills someone, you gotta drink a finger of your drink. It's all for good fun. At last, we find ourselves on the bonny, bonny banks of Loch Lomond. The largest of Scotland's lakes, this is a spectacular visitor destination. The easiest way to see the loch is not by car, but by one of the local boat tours based in the town of Balloch. We're taking one offered by Sweeney Cruises. They leave every hour during the summer. The eastern edge of the loch is bordered by the Trossachs Hills and some of Scotland's most glorious scenery. This is Rob Roy country. Known alternately as a cattle rustler, soldier, thief, and folk hero, Rob Roy's exploits have provoked strong emotions here for more than 300 years. He was a man of great physical strength and energy. Some called him the Scottish Robin Hood. But others say he was more a bandit than hero, a man who ran a protection racket among poor local farmers. Daniel Defoe's fictionalized biography called Highland Rogue was published while Rob Roy was still alive. The idealized account helped him avoid the long arm of the law, and Rob lived out his final years quietly. Literally a legend in his own lifetime. What better way to wrap up a great visit to Scotland than with some traditional music on the shores of Loch Lomond? We're attending a ceilidh, a lively evening of dancing, singing, and often a bit of good whiskey. Ceilidh dancing is simply Scottish folk dancing, and it often involves a dance call. Beginners are always welcome. Scotland stays with you like a cherished friend. Poet Robert Burns asked, should old acquaintance be forgot and never brought to mind? Well, I don't think so. We'll keep these memories for a long time. You take the high road and I'll take the low road, and we'll all meet again in Scotland. I'm Rudy Maxa. Thanks for joining me.