European Royalty's Secret to Wearing Tiaras and Kokoshniks

Hello, dear jewelry connoisseurs! Today I will tell you an interesting story about why European monarchs began to wear tiaras and kokoshniks. Representatives of the royal houses of Europe often appear at official events wearing tiaras that resemble an ancient Russian headdress, a kokoshnik. In Russia, this fashion for kokoshniks has been popular since the time of Empress Catherine the Great and the Grand Duchesses. However, thanks to Alexandra, wife of King Edward VII, who was the sister of Russian Empress Maria Feodorova, wife of Alexander III, this style became popular in the West as well. It is interesting to note that some tiaras are still called kokoshniks, even though they never belonged to members of the Russian royal family and were not made in Russia. One such tiara is Queen Alexandra's kokoshnik tiara, which is in Elizabeth II's treasury. This unique tiara has a white and yellow gold base set with diamonds in the shape of sunbeams. This ornament contributed to the popularization of the Russian style in jewelry art outside Russia, becoming a special trend in the world of jewelry. This tiara has a fascinating history. In 1888, when Queen Alexandra and King Edward VII celebrated their silver wedding, the maids of honor decided to present Her Majesty with something special. Alexandra asked for an exact replica of the diamond tiara worn by her sister, who lived in Her loved ones donated their diamonds and ordered the tiara from the jewelry house Gerodin Company. Alexandra was delighted with this gift and often wore it at official events, calling it her Russian kokoshnik. In English, such designs were called fringe. A similar piece of jewelry was on Elizabeth's head on her wedding day, but like many Russian tiaras, it could easily be transformed into a necklace, which caused the bride a lot of trouble. Nevertheless, Queen Alexandra's tiara was passed on to each subsequent queen and became the jewelry of the most important state and social events. The Duchess of Westminster's blue enamel kokoshnik tiara was made just over a hundred years ago by the ancient jewelry house Chaumette. The French brand with a two-century history was already famous among European aristocrats, symbolizing true luxury and power. Unsurprisingly, the tiara quickly fell into the hands of Hugh Grosvenor, second Duke of Westminster. As soon as the tiara was put up for auction in 1911, the Duke, accustomed to luxury, immediately shelled out a substantial sum for it. It is believed that this magnificent piece of jewelry was purchased by the wealthy Hugh Grosvenor for his first wife for their ten-year marriage anniversary. However, the Duke may have decided to fulfill two purposes at the same time, George V and Mary of Tech were crowned in the same year, and his wife was to appear at this important event wearing this magnificent tiara. This piece of jewelry is a true work of art. Just take a look at it. Gold, platinum and azure enamel are a worthy backdrop for the 280 diamonds that create a delicate floral composition. This is a magnificent display of French jeweler's skill in the style of Russian traditions and culture, a work that deserves a place in a museum collection. But? Despite the expensive gift, the marriage could not survive, soon after the purchase of the tiara, the Duke divorced his first wife, and the jewel remained in his jewelry collection. After the Duke's death, the tiara was unexpectedly auctioned and left the family possession. This happened because of the inheritance tax that had to be paid to the heirs of the deceased Hugh Grosvenor. The amount of this tax in the modern world is about 200 million pounds. The family did not have enough monetary resources at that time, so they had to part with part of the family values. In the early 2000s, one of the Duke's heirs, Gerald Cavendish Grosvenor, found and returned this family heirloom. Gerald's fate may inspire envy in some and sympathy in others. The billionaire, who primarily dreamed of the humble life of a farmer, suddenly found himself holding the title of Duke. Unexpectedly. When Gerald was only 15 years old, his uncle, the second Duke of Westminster, died without leaving an heir. Under British law, his fortune could not pass to his daughters, and Gerald's father, and then Gerald himself became the heir. This great wealth, which fell to his lot at such a young age, buried all his hopes of a simple life. All his time was spent managing the family fortune, yet he managed to retain his core values, loyalty to his family, freedom from prejudice, common sense, and independence from financial success. Understanding the importance of family heirlooms and heritage, Gerald spent many years working to restore lost jewelry to the family collection, including the Duchess of Westminster's blue enamel kokoshnik tiara. In the end, Gerald's efforts were successful, and this azure miracle returned to his family, adorning the head of his wife, Natalia. Nevertheless, the tiara kokoshnik did not stay in the aristocratic family. Already in 2015, for unknown reasons, she was again at Christie's auction, following its fickle owners. The cost of the tiara exceeded all expectations, and the buyer laid out almost $700,000 for this work of art, which, without a doubt, deserves a place in the best museums of the world. The precious aquamarine crescent-shaped masterpiece, or as it is also called, Russian kokoshnik, according to the official version, is not part of the collection of the family fund of the Swedish Bernadotte dynasty. Instead, it belongs to the Swedish king's sister, Princess Margaret, who lives in the UK. The ocean glow of the purest aquamarines embodied in this piece of jewelry will leave no connoisseur of exclusive pieces indifferent. Looking through old photographs of the first ladies of Sweden, one cannot help but admire the exquisite beauty of these huge stones encased in elegant diamond lattices made by the master with finesse. The author of this beautiful tiara is still unknown, but researchers have suggested that the style and composition of the jewelry is much like the work of a German court jeweler named Kov. Oh, those Swedish princesses, how touchingly they adore luxurious semi-precious stones, are proud of them and constantly delight the world with their magnificent crystals. The first owner of an aquamarine kokoshnik is believed to have been the wife of the future king of Sweden Gustav VI Adolf, Margaret Connacht, or Princess of Connacht. She made a jewelry contribution to her husband's family, bringing this treasure with her from Ireland. There has probably never been a photograph of the owner of this tiara with it on her head. Margaret brought five children to her husband and was expecting a sixth when she died suddenly in 1920. Her collection of favorite jewels was divided among her children, and the tiara kokoshnik went to the late princess's eldest son, Gustav Adolf, the future king. His wife, Sibylla of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha, can be said to have breathed new life into the tiara and presented it to the public. Look how graceful and royally harmonious this aquamarine masterpiece looks in combination with the airy, weightless veil of young Sibylla, as if woven from heavenly clouds. Her wedding to the future king of Sweden in 1932 was the first time the princess shone in her parents' tiara for public view. Even during her mother's lifetime, aquamarines of this gorgeous light blue glow often adorned the head of her eldest daughter Margaret. However, Sibylla herself was also fond of the tiara and never stopped wearing it until the end of her days, including a difficult period after her husband's untimely death in a plane crash in 1947. When Margaret married British businessman John Ambler, she moved to her husband's homeland, away from the royal court and social life. During this period, traces of the aquamarine jewel were lost for a time, sparking rumours of a possible sale of the tiara. However, it soon became known that Margaret had kept the family legacy for herself and her daughter, whom she named Sibylla in honour of her grandmother. In 1998, the happy bride Sibylla Ambler adorned her wedding image with the famous kukosnik. A long hiatus followed, sparking rumours of a possible sale of the jewel. However, in 2010, Margaret again astonished the public by appearing at the wedding of Crown Princess Victoria's niece wearing the missing tiara, thus reviving interest in the jewel. Members of the Bernadotte family, Princesses Christina and Madeleine, occasionally show off this unique headdress at ceremonial events. Christina claims that the tiara still belongs to Margaret, but is now kept in the treasury of the foundation, from where the owner takes it on occasion, breaking the flow of her measured British life. The royal women's careful love for this piece of jewellery allows us to hope that it will be preserved for future generations. Unfortunately, such good fortune did not befall Russia when, in the post-revolutionary period, the lion's share of the Tsar's treasures were looted and sold. But the small Swedish state has preserved an integral dynastic collection, reminding of the greatness of the past. The next exhibit in our virtual museum of jewellery art is Countess Rosenborg's Garnet Kukosnik. This exquisite piece was created in 1930 by the jewellery house Age Dragsted for Princess Viggo, Countess of Rosenborg, born Eleanor Margaret Green. The tiara was a gift from her husband, Prince Viggo of Denmark. This magnificent accessory includes a platinum and gold base. Precious antique-cut diamonds totalling approximately 40 carats, oriental pearls approximately 9mm in diameter and garnet flower garlands. The top row of diamonds can be removed and used as a Riviera necklace consisting of 83 antique-cut diamonds weighing approximately 25 carats in total, with the centre diamond weighing 1.60 carats. Prince and Princess Viggo had no children. After Princess Viggo's death in 1966, the tiara was inherited by her daughter-in-law Princess Margrethe of Sweden, wife of Prince Axel of Denmark. After Princess Margrethe's death in 1977, the tiara was inherited by her son-in-law Countess Ruth of Rosenborg, née Nielsen. In 2014, it was sold at a Sotheby's auction for CHF 245,000. The current owner of this piece of art remains unknown. And so, our fascinating tour continues and the next stop is the tiara cocochette of Louise of Orleans. In June 2018, Christie's auctioned a breathtaking tiara topped with a rich history, created in 1905. This magnificent piece of jewellery belonged to Princess Louise of Orleans, who became royalty as a result of her marriage to the heir to the Spanish throne. One of the most delightful royal tiaras was created from old-cut diamonds based on platinum. The inner diameter of the tiara is 21.2 cm. Imagine the amount of craftsmanship and gemstones that went into creating this work of art. The series of royal tiaras, including the one given to Princess Louise in the early 20th century, are magnificent examples of jewellery craftsmanship. The crescent-shaped tiara was a feature of many royal jewellery designs. The first such tiara, set with diamonds and pearls, was presented to Princess Alexandra of Fife in 1913 by King George V and Queen Mary. They presented it to their niece when she married her cousin, Prince Arthur of Connaught. A second tiara, very similar to the first, but decorated with turquoise and diamonds, was presented in 1926 by the same King George V to his daughter-in-law, Lady Elizabeth Beauce-Lyon, the future Duchess of York. The young Duchess transformed the jewellery by removing the top row of diamonds to bring out the beauty of the tiara, as she herself noted. Perhaps Louise of Orléans' tiara is also of British origin. This is confirmed not only by the style of the jewellery, but also by the French royal family's ties to the British royal family. The French royal family lived in exile in England for over 20 years, and Princess Louise's wedding took place on English soil. Queen Alexandra and her daughters were present at the celebration, showing the close ties between the two royal houses. The Louisa of Orléans' tiara was inherited by various dignitaries of the Spanish royal family. It was worn by her maternal grandmother to King Juan Carlos, but after her death the jewel passed to another daughter, Princess Maria de la Esperanza of Bourbon-Sicily, wife of Prince Pedro Gastão of Orléans' Bragança, a pretender to the Brazilian throne. The tiara was used by Maria de la Esperanza during the ceremonial events in Athens in 1962, for the wedding of Juan Carlos to Princess Sofia of Greece and Denmark. The tiara then passed into the ownership of her daughter, Princess Maria da Gloria of Orléans' Bragança. She was Crown Princess of Yugoslavia from 1972 to 1985 during her marriage to Crown Prince Alexander, and now holds the titles Duchess of Segorbe and Countess of Rivadavia by her second marriage. In 1982, Maria de a Gloria sold the tiara at an auction in St. Moritz. Now, once again, this exquisite tiara is for sale. The tiara is labeled as an important diamond tiara of the beautiful era, and is estimated at $186,900 to $280,350. While this is a fairly modest price for such a piece of jewelry, it is clear that this is only an initial bid. Regarding the next piece, I found only a little bit of information, but it is no less impressive. It is a tiara kokoschnik from the house of Savoy. The next specimen we will look at is the incredible floral aquamarine tiara, but it is worth paying attention to its original appearance, as the tiara has been altered beyond recognition. This exquisite aquamarine tiara was created by French jeweler Georges Fouquet back in 1908. Initially, this jewelry masterpiece was a kokoschnik covered with enamel, in which large diamond flowers were inserted. In the center of each element was a huge aquamarine of oval shape, and the petals were decorated with pearls. The master first showed his creation at the Brussels exhibition in 1910. The tiara appeared several times in portraits of the Duchess of Kent, but at that time its design was changed. The enamel hoop was removed and the floral elements with aquamarines were set on a satin base. Now on to Lady Mountbatten's diamond tiara, which has a fascinating and hectic history. This tiara was created by Chaumet and commissioned by Baroness Marie d'Or in 1928. Originally designed in the Art Deco style, it fitted perfectly with the image of the wife of the Belgian ambassador. However, in 1934, the Baroness wanted a change and commissioned Chaumet to redesign the tiara, adding swirling diamond curls and trefoil motifs. She later decided she no longer wanted the tiara and sold it to Cartier. In 1937, the tiara was purchased by Edwina, Countess Mountbatten, although there was some confusion as to its provenance, as the tiara from Chaumet was now in a Cartier box. Nevertheless, in Lady Mountbatten's hands, this headdress soon became one of the most recognized of its time. Edwina married Lord Mountbatten in 1922, just five months after meeting him. Her husband was the son of Louis Alexander Mountbatten, Marquess of Milford Haven, and Princess Victoria, granddaughter of Queen Victoria. He was uncle to the Duke of Edinburgh and tutor to the Prince of Wales, and later became the last Viceroy of British India and the first Governor-General of the Dominion of India. During this time Lady Mountbatten devoted herself fully to humanitarian work, often appearing in this tiara at official functions in India, as well as at the coronations of King George VI in 1937 and Queen Elizabeth II in 1953. Despite rumors of her possible extramarital affairs with India's first Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru, Lord and Lady Mountbatten remained married until her death in 1960. In 1979, the tiara was inherited by their youngest daughter Lady Pamela Hicks, who wore it often but reluctantly put it up for auction at Sotheby's in 2002, citing the need for money. Thankfully, the tiara could be seen again at Ciao Metin Majesty in Monaco in 2019, after being loaned by its new owners. And the next in line is a black steel Cartier Tiara Kokoschnik. In 1914, the tiara was purchased by Romanian statesman Alexandre Margilliman and his wife Suzanne Avery Margilliman, and presented to the newly crowned Queen Maria of Romania during her coronation ceremony. This piece of jewellery certainly stood out among other gifts, its uniqueness lay in the combination of black steel and precious stones, which made it truly creative and original. This bold experimentation with materials and gemstones was done in the jewellery workshop of Henri Picquer and the jewellery house Cartier. However, it should be noted that the traditional basis of the jewellery was the shape of a Russian Kokoschnik and the use of platinum, introduced by Cartier into the art of jewellery as a material for creating strong and stable frames. It is believed that five such experimental tiaras were created, but their owners and whereabouts remain unknown at this time. As for Queen Mary's tiara, decades later it was bought back from the Queen's heirs by the jewellery house Cartier and is now on display as a historical exhibit, an example of craftsmanship at the Islamic inspiration and contemporary design exhibition in Abu Dhabi. Another example of a Kokoschnik style tiara by Cartier is a piece of elegance and exquisite glamour, created in the early 20th century from plain steel but set with first-class diamonds that give it a fairytale-like appearance. This black tiara was sold at Christie's auction for nearly half a million dollars. Its contrast between the black enamel and the brilliance of the clear diamond stuns on lookers. It was created in the Cartier workshop in Paris in 1912 to 1915. By the way, in addition to steel, the jewellers also used noble platinum in the manufacture of this tiara. The tops of the tiara, united by wavy elements, give the jewellery a certain resemblance to a crown. But this is far from the end of our story, and it is only beginning to gain momentum with the presentation of the next specimen, the Meander Tiara of Crown Princess Cecilia of Prussia. Originating from the archives of the Hohenzollern Royal House of Germany, the Prussian Meander Tiara was one of the many crowns in their possession prior to the First World War. The ornament was made in 1905 by the German jewellery workshop Kohenbergfeld, which specialised in creating jewellery for the Prussian royal family. In 1905, Crown Prince Wilhelm of Germany and Prussia commissioned the tiara as a wedding gift for his bride, Duchess Cecilia of Mecklenburg-Schwein. Although the couple were intended to take the place of Emperor and Empress of Germany, plans had to be postponed due to World War I, which led to the abolition of the Prussian monarchy and the abdication of Emperor Wilhelm II. However, Crown Princess Cecilia managed to preserve her husband's wedding gift and pass it on to her descendants. The beauty and grandeur of this crown is truly impressive. The tiara is shaped like a kokoschnik with a pattern reminiscent of a Greek key, or meander along the edges, and a thin diamond-shaped lattice in the centre. Each section of the lattice is set with a large diamond, while medium-sized diamonds cover the entire surface of the ornament, giving it extra sparkle. The frame of the jewellery is made of platinum. The choice of the meander pattern for the crown was not random, but symbolised unity. It is therefore not surprising that this wedding gift became something of a traditional wedding tiara for the House of Hohenzollern. One of the most attractive women of the family, Grand Duchess Kira Kirilovna Romanova, completed her wedding look with a meander tiara when she married Prince Louis Ferdinand of Prussia, son of William and Cecilia, in 1938. Almost 30 years later, Wilhelm and Cecilia's daughter, Princess Maria Cecilia, also chose this tiara for her wedding to Duke Frederick August of Oldenburg. The Prussian meander tiara was later used in the wedding ceremony of the couple's second daughter, Princess Xenia, when she married Per Edward Litander in 1973. In 2011, the tiara reappeared at the wedding ball of Princess Sophia of Eisenburg, wife of Prince George Friedrich Hohenzollern. And in September 2017, the meander tiara again adorned the bride, Princess Victoria Louise of Prussia, at her wedding to Prince Ferdinand of Leiningen. In my opinion, the tiara, while beautiful, seems overly bulky on the princess's head, especially on Princess Victoria Louise. I don't think this piece of jewellery is too suitable for her. What do you think? Now let's move on to the next piece of jewellery, the Imperatress Michiko Pearl Brilliant Tiara. This Japanese pearl and diamond tiara is a variant of the classic Barcroma tiara design with thin, almost entirely diamond beams forming a smooth top line. Its shape is reminiscent of a Russian kukoshnik. Pearls along the top add a slight softness to the rigid shape of the rays. Like many other tiaras worn by members of the Japanese imperial family, little is known about this tiara to the general public. It is usually combined with a necklace reflecting the pattern of the tiara and simple earrings to create a special hairstyle, a characteristic element of many modern Japanese tiaras. The tiara was worn by Empress Michiko when she was crown princess and consort to the heir prince. Later, after becoming Empress, she passed this tiara to her daughter-in-law, Crown Princess Mosoko. Let me introduce you to Greville Emerald Kukoshnik, the cherry on the cake of the jewellery world. The Greville Tiara, in the form of a kukoshnik, epitomizes the ethereal radiance of beautiful diamonds and the magical shine of velvet green emeralds. This is the true splendor of aristocrats. This gorgeous tiara is reminiscent of the treasures of Russian tsaritses. However, the Greville Tiara has nothing to do with the House of Romanov. Many might call it the Russian kukoshnik because of the shape of the jewelled crown. At the beginning of the 20th century, the fashion for the Russian style conquered the world of jewellery. And now in the 21st century, the emerald tiara sparkles delightfully in Princess Eugenie's hair. Her auburn tresses and precious emeralds seem to have been created for each other. Noble platinum and a multitude of diamonds making up intricate patterns. The delicate ornamentation of precious stones takes us back to the era of Russian princedoms, when pagan beliefs still reigned and plant ornaments adorned fabrics and jewellery. Is it true that the Greville Tiara can be confused with Russian treasures? And what a beauty is the 93.7 carat cabochon center emerald, it is simply delightful. It is not clear why the English Queen Mother and Elizabeth II almost never wore this fabulous tiara. It was only Princess Eugenie who gave the tiara a second wind and new life. I have always been amazed by the beauty and magic of emeralds, how they change their colour under the rays of the sun or camera flashes. This is a true miracle of nature embodied in jewellery art. Back in 1919, the French masters of the Boucheron Company received an order to create this tiara. The customer was the daughter of a rich brewer, fashionista and public figure Margaret Greville. This simple girl, whose father was a member of the English Parliament and whose husband was Baron Greville, instantly moved into high society after her marriage. It was she who was perfectly suited to this gorgeous tiara, although Margaret had many other pieces of jewellery. Besides, she was a broad-minded person and had bequeathed most of her jewellery to her housekeeper. It was certainly not the most expensive and luxurious jewellery, but still. Indeed, Mrs. Greville showed a high appreciation of the value of female friendship and loyalty by deciding to bequeath the emerald tiara and other jewellery to the Queen Mother in 1942. Her close friendship with Elizabeth II's grandmother, Mary of Teck, played a role in this decision. However, despite its long history and importance to the family, the diamond tiara was not appreciated at the Royal Palace. At Princess Eugenie's wedding ceremony, the tiara enthralled everyone in attendance. Her emeralds drew attention with their brilliance and beauty. The bridal gown was elegant and understated, which emphasised the majesty and sophistication of the tiara. The refusal of additional jewellery and airy veil emphasised the refinement of style and individuality of the bride. As for the choice of tiara, Eugenia rejected the York tiara, her mother's inheritance. The reasons for this choice could be varied and could include personal preference, symbolic meaning or simply aesthetic combination with the dress. Surely this decision must have been carefully considered and reflected the bride's inner vision of her bridal look. Now, answer in the comments, which of the tiaras did you like the most?