Morocco: Land of Mountains, Medinas, and Mystique

This is Morocco, an ancient land of contradiction. From idyllic coasts to savage sands, life finds a way where the old world meets the new. This is Morocco from Above. Situated at the crown of Africa, Morocco's contrasting landscapes stretch almost half a million square kilometres, from temperate coastlines to snow-capped mountains and one of the hottest deserts on the planet. To capture this vast array of landscapes requires a 2,000-kilometre journey, beginning in an ancient city here on its western coast. Its strategic position on both the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea made Morocco irresistible for conquering empires, a turbulent history that comes together in the extraordinary city of Essaouira. Once ruled by Carthaginians and Phoenicians, the fortifications were built by both European and Moroccan architects. The town standing today was built by King Mohammed III in the 1800s. By the 19th century, this was Morocco's biggest port. Goods arrived from around the world to be traded in its vibrant markets. Even today, the echoes of ancient Arabia are everywhere. This marriage of Arabic and Mediterranean architecture put Essaouira on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2001. As the sun goes down, locals leave the shady, narrow streets of the old town and head for the rooftops, where Essaouira's evening entertainment begins. Up here lies a world of social gatherings, food and music. Essaouira is famous for its traditional music called Nawa. Often performed across the city's open-air terrace restaurants, its roots here date back to the 17th century. Originating from West and Central Africa, the Arabic influences added by Morocco's musicians have helped create its unique sound. Nawa music, it's the history of Africa. Yassine Ben Ali has been playing it for over 30 years. For me, it's not just music, it's spiritual music. Frequently performed at healing rituals called Lilas, people gather to dance the night away to hypnotic songs, some of which can last up to three hours. Nawa music has inspired some of the world's most famous musicians, from Robert Plant to Jimi Hendrix. But some traditionalists regard global appeal as a mixed blessing, especially when modifying sacred traditions for more commercial goals. We can open it, we can mix it with other cultures, because there is no border with music. But we need to keep it also for the next generation. Essaouira's Nawa music scene is one of its biggest draws, but its beaches, weather and culture also bring the crowds in all year round. Morocco welcomes over 12 million tourists a year, and some choose to get around old style. Taxi drivers here use the highly sought-after classic European imports, including Abadela Oubihi. Some of these taxis have covered nearly three million kilometres and are still going strong, earning a special place in Moroccan culture. They may have been built for European roads, but these classic cars have withstood the salt and sand of Essaouira. But their days could be numbered. Vehicle emissions account for half the air pollution here. A government scheme is replacing diesel vehicles with greener engines. Not everyone is eager for change. Who knows how many more kilometres these old workhorses have left in them, but they remain an iconic sight on Essaouira's city street. Just offshore, in the city's bay, lies a destination much less welcoming. A kilometre away is Mogador Island. Both the Carthaginians and the Romans have settled here. Defensive positions guard its shores. And remains of an open-air prison lie at its heart. There's only one way in or out. It was later used to quarantine pilgrims returning from Mecca. Today, its main residents have chosen to live here, and even use it as a breeding colony. 30,000 yellow-legged gulls call this home. Living in giant colonies for safety, they pair up for life to raise their young. They're highly territorial. But for a few months, they have to share their island. Mogador is the summer retreat for the Eleonora's falcon, migrating here every year from Madagascar to nurture the next generation. They were named in the 14th century after the Sardinian judge Eleonora of Arborea. A keen falconer, she passed a law protecting birds' nests against illegal hunters. This legislation is believed to have been the first of its kind anywhere in the world. And now this island is a protected nature reserve, ensuring all the residents of Mogador will have a guaranteed nesting ground for years to come. Traveling north, the next stop is Casablanca, a city designed to be seen from above. The first city in history to be laid out by aeroplane. When the French took control of Morocco a century ago, they set about transforming Casablanca into a showcase of colonial might. Their greatest architects planned the new city from the air, envisioning a slice of Europe in Africa. Morocco regained independence from France in 1956, and ever since, the kingdom has had big plans for the city, developing it into its economic capital and a worldwide hub for business. But it's also one of the country's spiritual homes. Built by the country's previous ruler and bearing his name, is the Hassan II Mosque, one of the biggest in the world. Islam arrived in Morocco in the 7th century, and even today the current king Mohammed III claims a direct line to the prophet Mohammed. 99% of Moroccans now follow the religion, and over 100,000 of them can gather here to worship. Its geometric patterns are a common feature of Islamic art, thought to reflect the language of the universe and help the believer to reflect on life and the greatness of creation. 210 meters high, it also boasts one of the tallest minarets in the world, capped with a spotlight that shines east towards Mecca. It's one of the most popular sights in North Africa, and a focal point for all citizens of Casablanca. Continuing north, this journey travels along the Atlantic coast to the Mediterranean Sea, and Africa's closest point to Europe. Located on the Strait of Gibraltar, Tangier has long been the gateway to Africa. Throughout the 20th century, it was considered too strategic to be controlled by any one country. The Tangier International Zone was governed by nine foreign powers. It soon became a cosmopolitan hub. Photographers, writers, painters and musicians were fascinated by this melting pot of culture. Mark Twain, Jack Kerouac, Keith Richards and many more have walked these streets, soaking up the city's bohemian atmosphere. The traditional trades and crafts found here haven't changed for generations. But Tangier has witnessed some rapid modernization. Nowhere more so than its former cargo port, newly renovated and now home to luxurious private yachts. The cargo ships that once docked here have a new port of call. East of the city, just 50 kilometers away, is one of the country's most ambitious projects. Tangier Med, a port, an industrial complex and a hub for international business. With over a billion euros of investment, the biggest and best players in the shipping industry operate here, making Tangier Med not just the largest of its kind in Africa, but a global mega-port. Port director Rashid Houeri has worked here for nearly two decades. Morocco had to benefit from its northern frontier, with the Strait of Gibraltar and 14 kilometers away from Europe. And the vision of His Majesty the King back in 2003 was to create an integrated project. Connecting Morocco to more than 70 countries and putting this state-of-the-art facility at the heart of global trade. Traveling from Asia to America, some of the world's largest ships dock here. 400 meters long, each carrying around 20,000 containers. Unloading these mega-ships requires hundreds of man-hours. The impact for Tangier is huge. Over 90,000 jobs created thanks to the partners we have attracted in our industrial zone and the port. But it's not just locals making money. Markets all over Africa have boomed thanks to the cargo in these containers. In 2020, the port's operations processed over 80 million tons of goods, with an annual turnover of 7 billion euros. The future will be bright because we have the right partners, we have the right support from His Majesty the King and from the government. And the port is in the perfect situation, geographically speaking. But the port's enormous success comes at a price. As the country's economic strength grows, so does its carbon footprint. Ambitious operations like Tangier Med Port come with vast energy requirements. But a solution has been found in a free local resource. Less than a decade ago, Morocco imported almost all of its energy. By 2030, more than half will come from renewables. Thanks to the country's prime locale on the Mediterranean and a very long coastline on the Atlantic, it's well equipped to become a true energy hub. 3,000 kilometers of coastline results in consistent winds and in turn a limitless resource. And it's been embraced by the kingdom, with 16 new wind farms to be built over the next decade. If the full power of this element is harnessed, it could sustain almost every home in the country. Helping to make Morocco one of only two places in the world on course to meet its climate change target. For now, the winds of change are blowing in the right direction. Leaving Morocco's coast, 250 kilometers due south, lies another world. The Middle Atlas Mountains, one of the country's most idyllic regions. Its alpine climate of cold winters, warm summers and plentiful rain results in a surprisingly European-looking habitat. Ifrain National Park stretches over 500 square kilometers, home to a forest of immense atlas cedars. These towering giants can reach 40 meters high and live for nearly a thousand years. Providing the perfect mountain retreat for a unique primate. The only macaque species found outside of Asia. Other than an introduced population on the Rock of Gibraltar, Barbary macaques reside in just a few pockets of forest across northern Africa. Making this incredible woodland a vital refuge. Heading beneath the canopy reveals a rare glimpse into their lives. Like all primates, grooming takes up most of the day. But at 30 meters above the ground, watching the youngsters is a full-time job. Even males pitch in with this high-altitude childcare. And it's clearly exhausting work. But getting enough rest is the least of their worries. Barbary macaques are now considered endangered, largely due to habitat loss. Since 2001, over 6% of Morocco's forests have been lost. The fate of Morocco's monkeys hangs in the balance. Of the 10,000 Barbary macaques left in the wild, almost 25% of them are found here, in Ifrain National Park. Only time will tell if efforts to conserve this species, and Morocco's forests, will be successful. Continuing 400 kilometers further south, the Middle Atlas rise up to meet the mighty High Atlas, the country's biggest mountains. The geological backbone of Morocco. Formed when the Eurasian and African continents collided over the last 65 million years, the Atlas Mountains stretch for almost 1,000 kilometers, and are the tallest in North Africa, reaching over 4,000 meters. This extreme landscape attracts the planet's most adventurous hikers. If you like being in a quiet place, and if you don't like being in crowded cities, this is very good. Ibrahim has explored these slopes his entire life. If you ask most people from Europe, what do you know about Morocco? They think that Morocco is like a desert. They don't expect high mountains. But for those in the know, the centuries-old shepherd's paths and remote villages make it famous for some of the most breathtaking walks on the planet, and enjoyed by people from all over the world. But this terrain can be grueling. For sure you have to be prepared. Trekkers face dehydration in the summer, and hypothermia in the winter. We have almost three, four people die there every single year. Local knowledge can mean the difference between life and death. So people like Ibrahim now work as guides. Many rural Moroccans live in poverty, but adventure tourism is providing an income for the people here. This is the most beautiful place to go hiking, so I'm very happy to be here, and introduce it to other people. There are thousands of mountains in the world, but they choose to come back to this area. There is a reason. Lower down the slopes, snowmelt nourishes fertile valleys. Nestled amongst them is the mountain town of Imlil, where many begin their mountain treks. But not everyone relies on the tourist trade. Subsistence farmers like Mohamed Ait Hamou make up nearly half of Morocco's rural population. These ancient terraces were built by his ancestors. Rather than planting on the slopes, the level fields reduce erosion and surface runoff, helping the valley's farmers grow crops, like wheat and corn, and fruits, including cherries and apples. There's no modern machinery here. Farming is done the old-fashioned way. Despite the challenges of working the land here, Mohamed and his family have no intention of giving up their ancient practices. Rural communities like Imlil can be found all over the Atlas Mountains. But just 50 kilometers away, the pace of life is very different. Marrakech, the cultural capital of Morocco. Perhaps the country's most famous city. Around a million people live here, and some are lucky enough to live in luxurious riads. Easily distinguished by their courtyard gardens, these opulent homes were once the stately residence of the country's wealthiest citizens. Many riads are now guest houses containing spas. Italian architect Lauro Milan has been refurbishing riads for over 20 years. Marrakech is a very special city. And I thought, let's try, let's try to stay, let's do something. The riad's design makes each a secret hideaway. As soon as you open the door, you close it behind you, and you enter in a different dimension. You cut out the city, you cut out the noise. First built in Morocco during the 12th century, spas were originally used as a place to prepare for prayer. Known as hammams and rooted in the ancient traditions of Roman and Byzantine bathhouses, even today they play an important role in daily life. It is also a place where to have a meeting, where to have a social life. And for the 3 million tourists that visit Marrakech every year, riads provide a welcome refuge from the searing heat and chaos of the city's streets. Marrakech's Old Town, or Medina, a seemingly endless maze that dates back to the 11th century. This World Heritage Site is the perfect place to experience the hustle and bustle of urban Morocco. A trading hunt on the ancient Silk Road between China and Scandinavia. Marrakech's craftsmen still sell their wares, created using skills passed down over the generations. Almost every bit of free space is used in this hectic labyrinth. The air is thick with the smell of local cuisines, incense and spice wafting through the streets. Many of which lead to Jemaa el Fana, one of the oldest and busiest squares in all of Africa, and the heart and soul of Marrakech. For nearly 1,000 years, Jemaa el Fana has been a meeting place for residents of the Medina. And now tourists from around the world. Leaving the bustling city behind, the southern slopes of the Atlas Mountains are home to one of Morocco's most iconic landmarks. Little is found on these barren slopes. A hot, desolate place that only receives half a centimetre of rain a year, if at all. But even here, civilization has thrived through the ages. The fortified village of Ait Ben Haddou was once an important trading post. Built by the indigenous Berber people, a loosely connected tribe that are thought to have lived across northern Africa since 10,000 BC. They still make up the majority of the population, although since the Arab invasions of the Middle Ages, their identity is now interwoven with their conquerors. The rich history is still seen in the building standing today, some of which date back to the 17th century. It's even captured the imagination of Hollywood, featuring as a set in big-budget productions like Game of Thrones and Gladiator. Today, just a few families live here. But thanks to their home's popularity on the silver screen, they're used to welcoming visitors who are all greeted warmly. Drinking mint tea is a way of life. Freshly prepared and offered to guests, it's the ultimate sign of hospitality. A time-honoured tradition as old as the village itself. Ait Ben Haddou offers a glimpse into the past. But just 20km away, Morocco is embracing the future. The rocky slopes turn into a seemingly endless flatland, the perfect landscape for capturing the power of the sun. The Nour Complex, one of the world's biggest solar power plants. With around 330 days of sunshine a year, it's an ideal location. Costing over 2 billion euros to construct, hundreds of curved mirrors rotate with the sun. Each around the size of a tennis court, they all reflect light into one place. A 250-metre obelisk. The tower soaks up the concentrated rays, heating up throughout the day. Reaching 400 degrees, molten salt heats water to boiling point. The steam then drives a turbine-powered generator, producing enough energy to power over a million homes, and reducing carbon emissions by around 760,000 tonnes per year. As well as powering Morocco, the country aims to export solar energy to Europe, helping shape Africa's, and the world's, energy future. The Nour Complex may be a source of energy, but it lies on the edge of one of the most inhospitable places in the world. Covering over 9 million square kilometres, the Sahara Desert is almost as big as Europe. A seemingly endless sea, home to half of all the grains of sand on Earth. Once a lush grassland, and a home for a variety of plants and animals, a gradual adjustment in the tilt of the Earth around 8,000 years ago resulted in dramatic changes to the weather. Today it's one of the hottest, driest places on Earth, with the average daytime temperature regularly reaching over 50 degrees. But even here, life finds a way. The Sahara's oldest human inhabitants. People have lived here for millennia. The harsh environment prevented any serious attempts at agriculture from taking root. Humans had to adapt to survive. Learning to live as nomads, some 2 million people still live across the Sahara. Many still undertake journeys into the very heart of the desert, following ancient routes passed down through the generations. Including Hamad Oubana. Nomads have survived thousands of years in a land where most people would struggle to make it through the day. One of the secrets to their success is the camel. Able to survive without water for long stretches of time, coupled with amazing endurance, made it possible to ride them for weeks. Their mastery of camels made them key players in the trade across Africa. From the 7th to the 11th century, they would bring gold from the south to trade with the northern Mediterranean economies. Even today, trade caravans are still used. Nomads make their way across the desert to support their way of life. Thank God, we are safe. We have nothing to fear. We can trust anyone. We are at ease. If you go a little further, we can go back to the Sahara. Why? It's safe here. It's calm. You can go and come back. It's the origin. Against all odds, man has found a way to adapt and survive in this challenging land. And among Morocco's vast array of landscapes, people have learned to thrive. From coastal empires to mountain villages and shifting sands, this is a place where the old meets the new, coming together to form the rich tapestry that is the mighty kingdom of Morocco.