🍓Cuando usamos este método vamos a mantener las plantas más alejadas del ataque de las hormigas cortadoras.
🍓Otro punto importante en el cultivo de Fresas, mas que nada en el momento de producción, es tratar de evitar que las frutas queden en contacto directo con el suelo
🍓Con este sistema vamos podemos controlar mucho más el sustrato que le ponemos para que puedan crecer mucho mejor
🍓Y si llegamos a ver que las frutillas nacen deformadas, esto es un problema de polinización, que lo podemos solucionar como te muestro en el video, más que nada cuando no llegan los polinizadores.
Cultivo de Fresas en Botellas semienterradas → 00:00 Corte de las Botellas para las Fresas → 00:16 Sustrato para Cultivar Fresas en Botellas → 01:44 Enterrar Botellas para Cultivar Fresas → 02:24 Capas de Sustrato en Botellas de Fresas → 03:42 Fertilizante para Fresas en Botellas → 04:48 Trasplante Fresas en Botellas → 05:47 Evita Fresas Deformadas → 07:24 Consejos extras para Fresas → 08:14
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In today's video we are going to take the fruit cultivation to another level
so that not only do we avoid that the cutting ants are attacking the plants,
but we are also going to protect that fruit when it is in the production stage
so that it does not come into direct contact with the ground.
And to prepare the bottle, I am going to recommend that you cut it
right where the part that is curved begins
to try to remove the entire tube and also below we are going to cut it
because approximately we are going to bury about 10 cm in the garden
so that it is elevated from the ground.
On the other hand, what I am going to recommend is that approximately
at about 10 cm you make a couple of perforations all around
because in this sector we are going to make a mixture of soil with leaves, sticks
or the organic matter you have so that this way between the air
we have a good amount of oxygen at this level
that will help us to make all the organic matter that we put in this sector
decompose more easily and work the next day as the nutrients for the plant.
Here we are with all the plants that we are going to use now directly in the garden.
We are going to put them in these bottles.
These are plants that I recovered from last season.
I am cultivating them, which now I am going to show you,
with the rest of wood, sticks, to generate a substrate that is well ventilated
and in this way it will not only serve to have a better quality of roots
but also as all the leaves and the organic matter that we put in it decompose,
this will make them transform into much better quality and size fruits.
And here I have everything we are going to use.
Leaves, remains of sticks, if you have pebbles of rice, for example, or oats,
they will also come in handy.
Here, to give an extra nutrition to the plants that I have there of fruit,
we are going to put compost.
This is going to be practically a handful for each bottle we use.
And then the main component is going to be this compost
that we can mix in equal parts with black soil.
We are going to organize all the bottles so that they are well in line back there
and I show you how we are going to do to prepare it.
So all the part that we have perforated, this is the one that goes down.
A thread that you should put on one side, not in the center,
to be able to orient all the bottles that we are going to use.
Approximately between one and the other I will leave about 15 or 20 centimeters.
And this is the great advantage that we have,
is that once we put the fruit plants, for example, the ants,
it will cost them much more to get to the plants
and in turn all the fruit will be hanging.
And we are going to mark the whole circle.
Here I am going to do it with a knife to try to bury this bottle a little more,
which is approximately here.
These perforations I am going to make it stay above the level of the earth
so that all the leaves that we are going to put in the bottom are ventilated.
So, about 5 or 6 centimeters in this whole sector.
Do you see where the perforations are?
And then with the soil that we take out, we crush everything around.
In this case because I had these remains of leaves from the cultivation that I had before.
We are going to look for the perforations at this height at the level of the earth
and so we are going to make it firm
for when we put all the substrate up here and the fruit plants.
And now inside each one I am going to put a handful of these leaves and sticks
to make the lower layer.
It doesn't matter if they stay like this up,
when we finish putting all the substrate we are going to accommodate it
so that it is more tidy.
This is how I do it with all the bottles we put here.
And once we put all the leaf layer,
we are going to start covering with compost
all this layer of leaves that we have left below
and we squeeze a little.
We do it with all the others, more or less reaching almost half
and not squeezing much
because these leaves, when they come into contact now with the compost
plus the perforations that we made,
this is going to make this decomposition accelerate much more
and tomorrow they will become nutrients for all these strawberry plants.
Another thing that happens is that all these sticks that we have in the background
as they decompose,
they will leave air spaces that this will help us
so that the roots can also move more easily.
This is the fertilizer that I prepared for the lemon tree
based on lentils, rice and ashes.
Both for rice and lentils,
I am going to recommend that you process it a little
as to split the seed
so that they degrade much faster
and begin to release the nutrients.
And the proportions?
We are going to use 5 parts of lentils,
3 parts of rice and 2 parts of ash.
We mix it well and we are going to save this in a bottle
until the time to use it.
We are going to use a very small teaspoon
spreading it well inside each of the bottles.
So I'm going to do it with all these bottles
to give it more nutrition.
And above this organic fertilizer
that will be providing nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium
and many of the micronutrients that plants need,
we are going to put a good layer of this compost
or compost that you have at home
to separate it from the roots
that we are going to put right up here.
And now, taking advantage of this spectacular morning,
we are going to do the transplant
and here I have...
These are all the plants
that I was recovering last season.
Look how the leaves are decomposing
and this helps us to have a better root system.
I'm just going to open it a little like this
so that the roots are released
and can develop better.
And we are going to try
that the crown is a little lower
than the level of the bottle
and I'm going to fill them with compost directly.
Keep in mind that all the wood
that I put underneath,
when they start to decompose,
the leaves that we also put,
that will make the soil level go down a little,
but then we will be replacing it with more compost
or, if you have a pre-compost, much better
because that will ensure us to have more nutrition.
When we have them like this,
what we can also do
is give it one more extra,
with the pre-compost,
any extra material that we put on it
that provides us with nutrition,
it will help us to have a better development
of all these plants.
And it is important to respect the height of the crown well.
He likes to have a soil that is slightly acidic.
On the other hand,
that the substrate that we put on it,
the one you get at home,
drains well,
but that in turn has organic matter.
Because all that organic matter
will help us to have better aeration
and that tomorrow you are going to do everything fertilizing.
And one more piece of advice that I am going to give you,
when the plants go into flowering,
and if you go to see that the fruits do not deform,
many times you will have seen
that there are fruits that are deformed,
that are bigger from below,
but that have a very small tip.
This is precisely due to the lack of pollinators,
because the only thing that is going to be pollinated
are all the female flowers that are at the base.
I am going to recommend that with a brush that is very soft,
you go through the base of the flower,
which is where the anteras are,
and they are the ones that are going to give us the pollen grains.
And very gently,
you go up through the entire surface,
that each of those little dots
would be the stigma of the female flower.
And the greater the amount of pollen grains
that reach all these stigmas,
the greater the number of seeds that are going to form.
And this is going to determine
that we have bigger fruits.
And once we have them all
placed directly in the bottles,
what I am going to recommend is a good watering
so that all the substrate starts to stay
well in contact with the roots
after having done the transplant.
The great advantage that we are going to have,
and this is going to look good,
is that the fruits are going to hang,
they do not reach directly to the ground,
and this is very important to be able to maintain
much better quality fruits,
because it is normal that when they come in contact
directly with the ground,
the fungi that can come to see,
and if we have, for example, a day of a lot of humidity,
can end up making them start attacking
all the fruits,
and so we are going to end up losing them.
And all this method,
when we do it directly with bottles,
raised directly from the ground,
we can also do it directly in drawers,
so that in this way,
not only do we take better advantage of the spaces,
but we can also put
more strawberries.
I send you a big greeting!
Bye!