I BOUGHT A WRECKED CAR THEN REBUILT IT FOR PROFIT

I bought this Vauxhall Corsa for £250 and I'm going to sell it for over £2,000. It's definitely going to be my hardest project yet. And that's because I bought it with the engine not running. And I've never fixed anything like this. Now I've got to fix it cheap. In the last video, I diagnosed it as a bad head gasket and a warped head. And then I removed the head from the car. But luckily, I can use my friend's shop where I used to work to do all the machining. But don't worry, because I'll tally up how much all of the machining would have cost to pay someone else to do it and show you that you can still make very good profit without doing any of this. And before I can start any of that, I need to clean up the head and remove these horrible exhaust manifold balls. And after hitting all the studs with a hammer, the ideal scenario is that the nuts are rusted to the studs and you can just twist the studs right out of the head as I am replacing them. Which happened on a few of them. And luckily, all of these recessed ones, because if these didn't come out, it would have been an absolute nightmare. But that's where my good luck ran out. Because then they started rounding off the nuts and not pulling the studs out. So I'm going to hammer these extraction sockets onto the stud and hopefully it will wind them right out. So those stud extractors just took all the thread off and rounded them off completely. So option two is using the air power die grinder, grind the nuts off and then see if I can take the cat off that way. With that and a little bit of hammer and chisel, all of those nuts came off. And with a bit of teasing, I got the manifold off the head. What's really interesting is you can actually see where the gasket started to fail on the head by these darker black bits. That's where the gasket wasn't sealing anymore. So we know this head has got very warped. But before I do anything else, I have to remove these cams, which means taking out these cam caps. And it's very important they stay in order. And then these rocker roller arms come out and the hydraulic lifters underneath them. Now I'm going to keep everything in the right order so that when I put it back together, everything goes in exactly the same place. Now all of that's out, I can vac test it and see if any of these valves are leaking, which I'm certain they are going to be. So this machine tries to make a vacuum through the exhaust or intake port. So what we're looking for is the dial to go well into that green zone. And if it can't make a vacuum, you know that the valve is leaking and it either needs lapping in or the seat's cutting. So they're definitely going to need lapping in and the head is definitely going to need skimming because this means the head's warped so it's not flat anymore, which means the valve won't sit flush around the entire edge. But I could be wasting my time if the head is cracked. So I'm going to pressure test it. This is by filling the water jacket with 40 psi of air and then basically spraying it with fairy liquid to see if there's any bubbles leaking out anywhere. And then I can flip the head on its side and fill both the exhaust and intake ports with water. And if I see any bubbling, then the head is cracked inside the ports. And if I don't, I'm all good. Now I've checked each side for about eight to ten minutes just to make sure there's no bubbles and we are all good. Which means we can go ahead with taking the valve springs out with this valve spring compressor, pulling off the collets which hold the spring onto the valve and then taking the springs out. Keep the cotters safe. You need to keep these cotters safe because if you drop them, you cannot find them. And then I can look at getting these valves to seal. If I can do that with just a lap onto a skim and we're done with the head. And there you can see how small those cotters are and how easy they are to lose if you drop them. And as you can see the springs on the exhaust and the intake, they have this yellow paint mark which means both springs are exactly the same. Next, we need to get the spring seals off which stops oil dripping through the head into the cylinder. Now after a while, these do get hard and they stop sealing and that's why you sometimes get smoke coming out the exhaust if your oil seals are gone. So I'm going to replace those with new ones. But not yet because there's a lot to do. So I've taken all of the valves out of the head and as you can see, they're in a pretty filthy condition. So I'm going to wire wheel them all just so I'm working with clean valves. After that, they're not brand new but they're definitely fine to go again. And now I'm just going to check the valve guide wear by seeing how much lateral movement the valve has inside the guide. The exhaust will have a little bit more movement than the intakes because the exhausts get hot and they get more wear. But this amount of movement looks pretty good for this engine. And if you're wondering where I buy my cheap cars from, I've partnered with Marketplace Monitor and hand on my heart, I honestly don't think I could flip cars anymore without using their app. You can put keywords in such as price, distance from you and make or models of the car. Then you'll get a notification on your phone the minute a car within that search criteria is listed on Facebook. For example, if you know a lot about BMWs under £2,000, you can get a notification as soon as one of those is added to Facebook. So you can be the first person to message a seller and grab a bargain. And so many times I've found a dirt Jeep car, messaged the seller and three people have already said they're going to go view it before me. Sold! It was listed two minutes ago. Meaning I've missed out on a really good deal. So being the first person to see the car for sale is a game changer. And amazingly, with this QR code and using the code JOSH50 on checkout, you can save yourself 50% off your first month subscription and you get a seven day free trial. And in those seven days, you could buy a car and make £1,000 profit. And usually the team will be in contact to answer any questions. And it's not just cars. You can flip phones, fax machines, flip flops. I don't care. So if you're wondering when to flip your first car, now's the chance. Take the opportunity to grab this discount. Not only does it help a great business with a really nice team of guys, but it also helps me, the channel, create more and better videos for you guys. Thanks Marketplace Monitor. So it's time to see if we can get these to seal by putting some valve grinding paste onto the valve. Basically grinding the valve into the valve seat so that the surfaces match. And despite it looking like a really nice seat on the valve and the head, when I put the vac on, it was letting WD-40 through. Now I could keep lapping these valves and eventually I would get a nice seat, but it's just going to take ages. And this cylinder wasn't even a bad one. So to save myself some time, I'm going to jump on the valve seat cutter, cut new seats, which will be perfectly round again. And then I should be able to lap these valves in really quickly. I've just set the machine up all ready to cut seats. And remember, I'm going to have to take the spark plugs out because otherwise the cutter head will hit them. Idiot. But now that I've got the spark plugs out, I can set up this cutter. Now I'm going to be using a three angle seat, which is a bit better for flow and it should make it a little bit more powerful, but it's a coarser. So on this little pointer, I use this needle to touch exactly the bottom of the mating surface of the valve. Then I can put the cutter on, then move the cutter so the bottom of the mating face of the blade is in the same place and then go ahead and cut the new angles into this seat. It's pretty simple. And there's a mandrel that goes into the valve guide to make sure it's centered and then lap them in to make sure everything's okay. I've cut two of the valves, lapsed them in and they're vaccing perfectly. I'm going to cut the rest of the seats, lap them all in and then check they're all vaccing up. Now that I've done, look how good these seats looked. I used a three angle cutter, which is a little bit more difficult to set up, but you get better airflow through the head and also it looks a lot nicer. Now, before I skim it, I'm going to try and remove these broken studs in the head. So I've used this stud extractor, which just gets tighter on the bolt the more you turn it and let's see how this goes. I did give the stiff ones another thwack with a hammer, but at the end I was left with four snapped exhaust manifold studs. So let's see if we can get these out with a nut and a welder. I tightened the nut on tight, lay a bead of weld in between the stud and the nut and then tried to remove them and didn't work the first time. After one or two tries, because my welding is sh** and I managed to get two of them out, but the remaining two, I don't think they have enough thread on the remaining studs to thread a nut on. I might try it. But I think I'm going to have to drill them out, which I'm not looking forward to. After that, we are so close to getting done with the machining. I really hope all this work pays off and I make a really good profit on this one. Maybe a thousand pounds or more, but I did have to drill out these two remaining exhaust manifold studs and the bolt I snapped on the coolant housing thing. So tapped out the hole and inserted a helicoil, which are actually most of the time stronger than the threads that you drill out. And we're so close to getting out of the machine shop, so I cleaned up the top of the head so that when I put it on for the skim machine, it sits flat on the parallels. Tightened down the head to the machine and then started it off. And it's pretty simple. This hard cutter here, you move it down a thousandth of an inch or so at a time and it'll clean up the head until it's completely flat. So you can see the cutter is cutting where these are and then here is where it's low. As we can tell by this, that this head got incredibly hot because it's warped like a banana from heat. So we just keep moving down until it's flat and we've got rid of these low spots. You can see we've got a lovely surface after that finishing cut. It's so satisfying, I love doing this. I did used to do some work with him here, that's how I know how to use the machines and stuff. And now I just file off the edges because they can be a little bit sharp after skimming and deburr the holes inside. And now I'll blow it out with an air gun to get all those little shavings of aluminium out of the head, out of the water ports. Give it a wash, give everything a degrease and back together it goes. But first I've got to make sure that everything is spotless. So I started off with the timing chain cover, getting the gasket off and then I cleaned up the mating faces for the exhaust and intake manifolds to get a nice seal and not forgetting removing all the old valve grinding paste from those valves. Now I've got my head gasket kit which includes loads of gaskets but it also has the valve stem oil seals which I took off so I'm going to change them. After the head comes out, the hot tank, I'll give that another blow off with air to get all of the water out. And just for fun, I decided to measure the head to see how much I skimmed off the top and it turned out to be 16 thou which is quite a lot. Anyway, I whacked in the new valve stem oil seals into a socket and just gently tapped them onto the valve guides until the noise changes and they're seated. Then I dipped the valves in some all-purpose engine grease which is a handy little trick I learned which makes the cotters stick to the valve when you're trying to compress the springs and put them back on. Helps to use a magnetised flathead screwdriver as well just because they're so small. And after I've done all those, all the hydraulic lifters get put into the head and the rocker roller arms and then after oiling all of the cam bearings, the camshafts go back into the head. And again, oiling up all of the main bearings on the cam. Then I have to get it up on two pieces of wood because when I clamp down the cams with the cam caps, it'll try and push the valves out the bottom of the head. So obviously if it's sat on a table, it's not going to have a great time or the valves are going to lift the whole head. But now with those cam caps nipped up, I can see if the cams turn freely to make sure I've not done anything wrong and it's all good. So I've torqued up all of the bolts, make sure they still spin and they do, thank God. So cam locking tool back in. And with that, the head is all back together, all nicely oiled up, protected and this thing looks great. I cannot wait to see the first start of this when I get it back on the car. But without forgetting, I need to put in the brand new stainless steel exhaust manifold studs. And so on the exhaust manifold, I managed to drill out all the old bolts and I'm going to have to find some nut and bolts that I can use to bolt that back on. But I've got a new gasket, should be perfect. And with all that machining done, we can finally get this head back on the car and I cannot wait to see if this car starts and runs. And if I paid the company to do all the machining for me, it would have been £400, not that bad. So we are ready to get this head in and the first thing that I need to do is make sure I clean up the surface of the block so the head gasket seals properly. So I'm going to use a scraper just to get any residue off, give it a bit of a sand with some emery paper, and then the head will be going on and getting torqued up. And whilst I was replacing these intake manifold rubber gaskets, I realised a whopping 93% of you guys aren't subscribed to the channel. So make sure you hit that subscribe button. And the head gasket finally going onto this block with the head getting dropped on top. That's on. Now I can torque all these head bolts up in a star pattern from the middle to the outside. If you don't know, this is just so you don't warp the head. But I thought whilst I was doing all this work, I might as well change the water pump as well. So did that and then changed this front crank oil seal, took it out, cleaned it up and in goes the new one. And there we go. It's pretty good to me. I swear every time I wheel my tool kit outside, it starts raining. The only two things I'm really worried about now I've got the head on is getting the timing of the engine right. I've used locking tool so it should be fine, but there's always that worry. And secondly, when I was getting a bit angry, taking the head off, I accidentally kicked all the bolts from the timing chain cover all over the floor. So I'm hoping I can remember what bolts go where. I'm worried about that. But anyway, for now, let's get some progress made. And that meant replacing this crank gear, which drives the timing chain, changing all of the chain guides and putting a brand new timing chain on. And this is important because if any of these parts get worn down or the teeth on the gear get worn or the timing chain stretches, it'll mess up the timing of the car. So I've got that chain tensioner in now. As you can see, there's a little pin on it. That holds the spring of the tensioner closed. So as soon as I pull that pin out, it's going to keep tension on the chain and everything is going to be staying where it is. So although this movement on the chain, this slackness on the chain is a little bit worrying, I do remember it was like that when it came out. And with this timing tooling, the cams have a little bit of play side to side, but I can't get them into any other slot. 99% sure that that is correct. I'm a little scared. But that looks pretty good to me. I'm just going to be taking it a little bit slowly just to make sure I don't mess anything up again. That was a classic case of speaking too soon because when I went to put the timing chain gasket on, I realized there was no way to get this behind the chain and all the chain tensioners. You are joking me. I'll f*** this up big time. So all of that had to come off, put the gasket on, and then it all went back on again. That was an absolute nightmare, but I think the timing is done. I'm going to have to take the sump off because I think loads of coolant has dripped into the sump and there's still oil in there, so I need to take it off and clean it. But first I have to put the timing chain cover on so that I can mount the engine because right now I'm holding it all by the sump. So obviously I can't take it off just yet. In theory, this timing tool should just push out now super easy. Oh yeah, that is a good sign. And as well, the play in the chain now is only... I mean, there's hardly any. So I'm happy with that. So amazingly, I've got the chain, chain cover, and the crank pulley on with no spare bolt. So I'm going to turn the engine over by hand and hope to God that the pistons don't touch the valves. It seems pretty good to me. And with that all triple checked, I got these cam sensors on and then everything onto the timing chain cover. So I got the alternator on, the auxiliary belt tensioner. That was a bit tricky, but we got that on. And the AC compressor. And then I had to jack the engine up just a little bit so that I could get this engine mount bracket bolted in. Pulley on. And then that top water pump pulley. And finally, I could get the auxiliary belt on. So for now, this side of the engine is finished. And then it was just the boring task of making sure I plugged all the wires back into the right sensors. Got all the coolant pipes popped back on and the thermostat housing bolted in. And then it was time to bolt in the pipes for the air con compressor. And finally, getting this engine mount bolted up so that I could get this sump done. I am having an absolute nightmare with this sump. I've taken all the bolts off and I thought it would just drop off, but it's stuck like glue. It's just not coming off. So I've tried sliding a blade in between the sump and the block to cut the gasket, sprayed it with WD-40, hammered it, tried using pry bars. It just is not moving. It's so frustrating because I didn't even plan to do the sump, but I saw it leaking, so I'm going to do it. Oh! Finally. Hate to admit it, but what really helped getting this off was removing the two bolts that are recessed into the sump that I missed. So that's what happens when you try and be smart. What you can see, the quality of the oil was really quite bad. It was like syrup. So I cleaned out the sump completely with brake cleaner, took off all the old sealant and then redid the sealant again. So hopefully that sump oil leak is completely gone. And with that sump back up and mounted on, it was time to just quickly change the rocker cover gasket. So I cleaned it all up, removed the old one and just pushed the new one in. So now pretty much every gasket on this engine is refreshed and then rocker cover back on. And with this ground strap done, we are so close to getting this car running. Just going to whack this exhaust manifold on first, which obviously was super easy because of these brand new studs. And then it was just time to fill the engine up with coolant and oil. And then came across the worst oil filter I've ever seen. It just unraveled and shredded to pieces. So obviously that got replaced with a new o-ring, whacked it back in, filled the car up with oil and then put back on the spark plugs, coil packs, plug them in. And then to finish off this full service, to make sure the car's going to run sweet as a nut, a brand new air filter and the air box goes back in. I'm so hyped to make some money from this car. We are pretty much there. We're going to start this car. All I need to do is find the fuse for the fuel injectors, pull that out so it doesn't throw any fuel and crank it a few times just to make sure everything gets covered in oil. I am so nervous right now. This is the moment where all that hard work comes together and we see if it pays off or not. Sounds healthy. But after cranking the car a few more times, I realized I ruined this coolant return pipe. So I needed to replace that to ensure no coolant leak. And this time, started it with fuel. There's no warnings on the dash. That's good. It's hunting a little bit. And with Will on the phone for confidence, although nothing really bad went wrong, which I was thankful for, I had no idea why the idle was hunting a little bit. It's not running that... I can hear it now. And it had this horrible noise from the engine bay. Oh dear, oh dear. Right, so as scared as I am, I've just tightened up the downpipe to the rest of the exhaust. I'm hoping maybe the lambda only getting some of the exhaust through is messing with the air fuel. Let's see if this works. Try again. Sounds a bit rattly, actually. And I had absolutely no idea why the engine sounded this bad. And even after connecting the exhaust, it still wanted to die on me. So after doing some thinking, I'm going to start with the obvious. Have I got the timing wrong? So I'm going to take off the rocker cover and everything on top of it, get the crank at TDC, put my crank locking tool in again, and see where the cams are. But both of the cam locking tools went in absolutely perfect, so the timing was right. So then I checked the rockers, and all of those were tight. They were perfect. And that's kind of bittersweet, because I was hoping I got the timing right. And if I did get it right, it means I don't have to take the entire chain cover off. But because the timing is right, I don't know where else to start. I don't know how the car was running before I fixed it, because I never saw it running. And there's no codes on the dash to say that any sensors are gone, like camshaft sensors or anything like that. And I was a bit worried about the oil pump not working, so I took off the oil pressure sensor from the top of the timing chain cover, and cranked it, and it absolutely hemorrhaged oil. So the oil pump is definitely working. So with that and the timing, in theory, the timing chain cover doesn't have to come off, but I've got to diagnose why this car is running so badly. And I thought the best thing to do was check that everything I've done is done properly, and make sure everything is tight. But then I figured out the intake manifold wasn't tight. The handle of the screwdriver was getting blocked on the intake manifold, so I thought it was tight. And I noticed it just by wiggling it, and it was loose. So I'm actually pretty confident that this is the reason. So let's start it up and see what happens. Oh! Come on. But although there was still that horrible ticking noise, it wasn't dying on me, and it seemed to be running better. So hopefully, we'll make some profit on this car very soon. Let's take this baby for a drive. Remember, seatbelts! Oh, those brakes aren't great. It's honestly driving so nice. I don't even know if this is fixed yet, but I'm so happy. I'm driving the car that I bought as a non-runner. Not for the first time, but definitely the most work I've ever had to put into a flip. I'm so happy this is, like, driving so well. Clutch is mint. The brakes are freeing up a little bit. I think it's just because they were rusting. If this was my daily, I'd be very happy with this. Oh, it's so smooth. Yes! There's no knocks, no bangs. If you haven't ever got a car that's non-running and got it running, the feeling is so good, honestly. Right, when I stop, I'm going to see how the revs are doing. It's perfect. Oh, this is so, so good. At least that's what I thought until I pulled over to check the oil levels and the coolant levels and saw this coming out of the bonnet. That's not good. Oh, my coolant is everywhere. Holy ****, look at that. That is not good. So, it's time to investigate this coolant leak. You may be wondering why I'm on the side of the road, not on my driveway. Well, I was about to go surfing this morning, and about 10 minutes into the journey, the diff on my BMW just decided to explode. We're on to fixing this coolant leak, because now I need a new daily, and it's going to be the Corsa. And luckily, it was pretty easy to spot. As you can see, this coolant outlet flange is absolutely destroyed. So, off with that and on with the new one. So, I've refilled the coolant reservoir with water and squeezed the pipes a bit to try and get all the air out of the system. I really hope there's no leaks, and this is the mechanical side of the car to finish with. And after leaving it a while to get up to temperature, the fan is on, and I can feel down the back there, water's going through the thermostat. But yeah, there's no coolant leaks. It still sounds pretty bad, and I thought, well, I've done the oil, I might as well do the spark plugs, because they've probably never been changed. So, I'm going to put them in now, see if that helps anything. And to be honest, I was quite surprised and sad about how good the spark plugs looked. There was no obvious signs of oil or anything like that. So, let's see if it fixed it. New spark plugs, still runs like a bag of ****, but I did just notice that this oil pressure sensor, it's actually pushing itself out, which could mean that there's a lack of oil pressure, because that is getting pushed out itself and letting air out. And that's because the little tab that holds the wire onto the sensor was snapped off. And whilst it was out, I decided to test the oil pressure, and it was about five bar, which I think is perfect. So, anyway, I decided to do the worst soldering job of my life, and the worst filming, but it does the trick, and it's not going anywhere. So, I insulated that solder up, and I was really losing hope with this car. I could not figure out why the engine sounded so bad. So, I went out that night and tried one last time to figure out where the sound was coming from. So, as I pointed to on the camera, the top pulley for the auxiliary belt, I left the bolts hand tight, I forgot to nip them up. So, I've just tightened them with a spanner, luckily. I can't imagine it's going to make a huge difference, but I'm glad I noticed that now, because the bolts were pretty far out, to be honest. I'm going to try it again, see if it sounds any better. Oh, my God. That sounds so much better. Holy ----. No way. What? Have I just fixed it? Oh, here comes the misfire, I think. That sounds so much better. So, it's still misfiring, but it sounds... I cannot believe it's because I didn't tighten them bolts. What the ****? It sounds so good now. That meant, after what felt like an age trying to track down this horrible engine noise, I could finally drive it to work, instead of riding my bicycle, and see how it goes on the road. I know it sounds ridiculous, probably, but I'm so happy. Like, this is by far the biggest job. The car wasn't running, I needed to take the head off, put it back on. I've done the chain, I've done the water pump, I've done all the gaskets. I cannot complain, and I do not have to go to work on a bicycle, freezing cold. So, after taking the car to work, it was still misfiring a little bit, but other than that, it ran great, silent. When I got home, the engine check light came on, and it was running lean. And after some research, it's because of this little thing here. So, this is an intake manifold purge valve, which purges evaporation from the fuel tank back into the intake manifold. And they get stuck open, which means there's too much air in the engine constantly. So, I'm going to take it out and see if it's broken. And luckily, it's super easy to remove. It's just pulling off the hoses and the plugs. And with no power to this plug here, you shouldn't be able to blow through it. But, it's open all the way. So, like magic, I've got a brand new one here. Can't blow through it at all. So, we'll get this fitted, and hopefully, it's not running lean. It's not misfiring. Are the cars ready to sell and make a profit on? Doesn't sound like it's misfiring. Sounds way better. Right, I'm going to clear this code quickly on my code reader. But, because I was using a cheap code reader, it took me ages to find out why the engine check light was on. And that's because I had to take the code off the reader, and then do some googling, look on forums, that sort of stuff. And it would have been so much easier if I had my Carly scanner then. Because it's a Bluetooth code reader that connects to an app on your phone. And it's a factory-level diagnostic tool. So, it reads all the different ECUs in the car. And once it's found a code, you can clear it off. Or check in with the smart mechanic, which is super useful. It tells you what the code means. It tells you the fault code. And then it also tells you common symptoms of it and how to fix it. So, it makes diagnosing issues, my least favourite part of flipping cars, that much easier and simpler to do. So, I definitely could have done that a lot faster. Thanks, Carly. I don't want to get excited too early, but the engine check light's gone now. And the engine sounds absolutely mint. There's no misfires. I haven't touched the throttle. Usually, I have to touch the throttle just to keep it alive. Because it sounds like it's going to want to die. But it sounds absolutely perfect. The engine check light came on again. And it was for a lambda sensor. And after having a look, I could see nothing obvious wrong with the wires. Took it out and in the new one goes. Then, wiped the engine check light. And no, they're both working. So, mechanically, this car is ready to go. I've done that soldering, done the lambda. Now, the only thing that lets this down car is aesthetic stuff. Like this door handle. This rust. But I think I'm going to make about two and a half thousand pounds from this car. Give me a profit of over a thousand pounds. But you'll have to wait and see exactly how much we can make. And whilst waiting for the parts to come and find them. I thought I'd clean the car and get some pictures taken. With the current damage. And just see if I get any offers. So, if you want to see a full breakdown of how I clean cars. They're in pretty much all my previous videos. But I won't make you sit through that this time. So, went out, took some really nice photos of the car. And then, I got it listed on Facebook, Autotrader and eBay. To see which one sold the fastest. And now, there is two last things to do. The first one is to replace this bonnet. Because it is crusty as anything. And it is not nice. Especially when you're pulling the bonnet open. And the next thing is the door handle on the passenger interior door. And to take the bonnet off. It's super easy. It's just these four bolts. Two on each hinge on either side. It's a two-person job. So, I've got some help with me. But this is easy. And with the new bonnet on. I took my time lowering it. Just to make sure all the body panels were good. And they all looked pretty straight. But now that's done. I realised I haven't got any car shampoo left. So, I'm going to use a waterless wash on it. And I've actually just had a message from someone who wants to view it. And I think they're coming at the moment. So, it's time to just do the very last thing. Which is this interior door handle. And again, finally an easy job. Only took 10 minutes or so. And I just popped the trim off. Undid all the bolts holding the door card on. Disconnect the wires and door cable from the back. Slid in the new interior door handle. Plugged everything back together again. And before I finished. I wanted to make sure that everything was working. So, I tested the door latch was unlocking with the handle. Speakers working. Windows working. That's perfect. I'll push the trim back on now. And that's it. The car's ready to sell. So, now that I've done the bonnet obviously. And this. I'll take some more updated photos. Do the listing again. And hopefully, it's really popular. It's in great condition. It's had loads of work done to it. So, I'll see you when I'm telling you how much profit I've made. The car is finally sold. And if you made it this far in the video. I just want to say thank you. Because it's down to you guys. Getting this video pushed to more and more people. Meaning, maybe soon I'll be able to afford a unit. And get more videos out for you guys. So, if you're part of the 20% gang still here. Let me know in the comments. Anyway. After listing the car on Autotrader. I actually found it was an insurance write-off in the past. Category N. I didn't know that buying the car. I should have done my checks. But it means it wasn't worth the £2,500 that I thought it would. But I still made a good profit. I sold it for £1,900. Giving me a profit of £754.55. But over £120 of that was insurance. Because I ended up daily driving it. Whilst my other car was broken. So I think it's fair to say a profit of £850. So even if I paid someone else to do all the machining work that I did. I still would have made a good £454 profit. Well worth it. If you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching. Give the video a thumbs up. Don't forget to subscribe. And leave a comment down below. And check out one of these videos.