Hiking 100 Miles on NEPAL's Most Underrated Trek | MANASLU Circuit (part one)

Nepal is home to some of the most famous treks in the world. Everest Base Camp and Apurna Circuit, names that draw thousands of trekkers each year, all chasing that same dream of walking through the Himalayas. But what if I told you that there was another trek? One that's just as breathtaking, but quieter and more isolated. A trail that isn't yet filled with crowds, and where the land, culture, and mountains still hold that authentic, untamed beauty. This is the Manaslu Circuit, a remote and rugged journey circling the world's eighth highest mountain, leading all the way up to the Larkala Pass at 5,106 meters, where altitude, weather, and terrain make every step a challenge. And for the next two weeks, this will be home. This journey starts in Kathmandu, the chaotic but charming capital of Nepal. The streets here are filled with energy, motorbikes racing through the crowds, the smell of incense mixed in with the buzz of daily life. It's a crazy blend, but somehow it all comes together in a way that's hard not to love. So this is actually going to be my third trek in the country. Last year I did the Everest Base Camp, and two years before that I did the Annapurna Circuit. And while I loved both of them, it is also true that the more famous a trek gets, the more the experience can sometimes feel like it's a bit too commercialized. So this time I was looking for something different, something a bit more remote and adventurous, which is, if you've seen any of my other videos, exactly how I like it. And so, all packed up, fingers crossed I've got enough layers for the cold, it's time to leave the city behind. Over the next 13 days we will be hiking our way around Mount Manaslu, which at 8,163 meters is the 8th highest mountain in the world. But first, we've got a 9-hour jeep ride ahead to get us to the starting point. And don't expect a smooth highway journey here, it's more of a bumpy winding adventure. But after a while the city noise fades away, and you're left with the quieter side of Nepal, which is a pretty nice preview before the real hiking begins. That was a bumpy ride. Bye! So, turns out Machapola is actually right next to this river, so of course I am going to have to find a way to get down there and see if I can find a spot somewhere to take a cold plunge. Well, I don't think there is a better way to start off this trek than this. So, it's the official first day of the trek, and we're starting off with a 20-kilometer day, so what a good start. Unfortunately, today is also going to be spent majority on the road, which is a trekker's worst nightmare, but yeah, that's just how it is. But apparently, it is just going to be today and then a little bit of tomorrow, and after that it's just on the trail. So, it's definitely not as bad yet as, for example, with a quarter circuit, but yeah, who knows how long it will last. Yes, even here in this remote corner of Nepal, things are changing. Roads are being built, bringing both progress and disruption. Luckily for trekkers, they've come up with some solutions, like creating parallel trekking paths. So, there is actually a little section that is not on the road. We just crossed over a suspension bridge, doing? Good, yeah. Good? Yeah. Back not too happy? No, no, no, no, no, no, no. We are strong people. Yes, yes, Nepali people are like different brain. Yeah. So strong. Well, so far so good. I'm feeling pretty well. First days are always a little bit weird, because on one hand, everything is so beautiful, right? Like you're back in the mountains for the first time, it feels so nice. But at the same time, like you also still have to get used to it. Your legs have to get used to all the walking, or in case you're doing a trek like this by yourself, like me, you have to get used, or at least I have to get used a little bit to like being alone all the time. Like a part of me loves it, but then there are also these tiny little moments like lunch, where you know, I'm just used to having other people around and be able to talk and just sometimes it's a little bit lonely, but I'm sure I will get used to that as well. And it gives me a lot of time to think and to focus on myself. So I guess it's not necessarily a bad thing. Even though I'm not entirely by myself, and Govinda, my guide, and Dana, my porter, are with me, this is the first long trek I'm doing solo, without any friends or a partner. And it definitely already feels like a different experience. Out here on the trail, life gets reduced to its simplest form, just putting one foot in front of the other. And that opens up a lot of headspace. It's really just you and your thoughts all day, which can feel isolating at times. But at the same time, that's also what I love about being in the mountains. It's a place where you're forced to slow down and really confront what's inside. So one interesting thing about the Monastry Trek is actually that this area was close to outsiders up until the 1990s, which is quite recently still. And even up until today, it is still a restricted area, which is also why you don't see that many trekkers here, because you have to obtain permits and you need to travel with a guide here. You cannot travel without. So yeah, that's also why I partnered up with Himalayan Masters, who have arranged all of that for me. They got me the permits, they got me an amazing guide and an amazing porter. Just like this is my first time trekking solo, it's also my first time trekking with a guide and porter. It's a different way to experience the trail. More support, less worry about logistics, and a chance to see the trek through new eyes. So that's a wrap on day number one. We just got to Jagat, which is the ending point of today. Overall, really good day. A lot less road than I was expecting. Actually, I was just basically expecting the whole way to be road. I really, really loved it. It was beautiful and from now on, it's only going to get better. So I'm excited. The days here start early, around 6.30 a.m. A quick cup of coffee, a simple breakfast, and a short briefing about today's trail. This is all road? Yeah, all road until somewhere here, 60 meters. Okay, let's go today. And then the team is off. Today was a day of a lot of firsts. The first waterfall, the first suspension bridge, and the first real glimpse of the mountains that I have come for. It's so beautiful. 6,200 hours. Okay, wow. First big mountain. Yes. It was also the first day the mules made their appearance. A classic part of the trekking experience here in Nepal. And then indeed, after an hour or so of hiking on the road, officially on the trail, no more road. We then officially entered the Manaslu conservation area, which meant it was time to show our permits and go through a couple police checks. And from that point on, things started to get truly beautiful. The path became more rugged, winding through thick forests and alongside rushing rivers, with glimpses of towering peaks in the distance that would soon dominate the landscape. And where I struggled a bit with feeling lonely on the first day, on day two, I had met some fellow Dutch trekkers who were walking the same trail. And so we met up for lunch and had our first dalbat of the trek together. For which, if you don't know, it's basically the best trekkers food ever. It's like a lentil curry with rice and veggies. And the best part is that you get unlimited refills. And I knew this would just be the first of many. We're going to have dalbat again for dinner. Normally, we have. Not me, just all Nepalese people. Twice a time, without dalbat, cannot sleep. Yeah, even though Manaslu is definitely not a very busy trek, there are still other trekkers, which is actually really nice if you are a solo hiker. For me, it was the perfect balance. Having the trail all to myself during the day, but then at night, have some good company to share meals and stories with. That's done. Nice and sweet. Well, day two is done. And it was a beautiful, beautiful day. It was one of the longest days, apparently, of the trek. I don't know actually how many kilometers we did. Let me check. I'm just using my iPhone, so it's not very accurate. Keep that in mind. It says 24 kilometers. I think it was a little bit less because I walk a lot of back and forth to fetch the camera when I set it up. There was a lot of up and down and up and down. Definitely, I think we did quite a bit of elevation. So when you do a trek in Nepal, how it usually is, is that you stay at tea houses. You spend the night at tea houses, which is actually very luxurious because that means you don't have to bring any camping gear or stuff like that or any food because they make food for you here. Most of the tea houses are definitely quite basic. And I feel like even the tea houses here on Manaslu thus far have been more basic than on Annapurna or on Everest Base Camp, which makes sense because those other two treks are a lot more commercialized. They are a lot more accustomed to tourists. But yeah, it's like, again, I can't really complain because up until now, it's been amazing. I've had like my private room with even private bathroom, which I didn't have on Annapurna or Everest Base Camp. That's the benefit definitely of going with Himalayan Masters because they have the contacts here. They know how to get the best rooms. Well, this is what an average bedroom looks like on the Manaslu trek. I mean, it's great, isn't it? You have a pillow and electricity and no charging in room, but there is a kind of common area where you can charge your stuff. So that's also great. I have a bathroom. Let me show you. Check it out. There's electricity. And apparently, this place even has a shower, which trust me, that's a luxury on a trek. So, you know what I'm going to be doing, right? Oh, that was amazing. I feel like a completely new person. Time to get warm and cozy. which is usually a good thing because that means there's going to be fresh snow on the mountains, which is great. But it also means that today we don't get a very sunny start, which is fine. It's beautiful in its own way, I think. Last night here, like rain, then definitely snowing over there at Siala. Then we will go to Siala tomorrow. Then we will get also snow over there. It looks so beautiful. So, snow from tomorrow. That's crazy. And also the big, big mountains is over there. We can see like Manaslu. Tomorrow is the first day we get to see Manaslu? Yeah. Okay. The idea of seeing Manaslu for the first time with fresh snow was definitely something to look forward to. But before we could get to the snow... And it's starting to rain. We had to face the rain. And honestly, these grayer, quieter, wetter days, it's just part of the process. It's not always about sunny skies and you learn to embrace it. How is the dalbat? Excellent. Very good. Okay. This guy knows all the dalbats every single place. So, I always listen to his advice. Thank you. So, my guide just told me that today is actually the Tibetan New Year. And since this area is so close to the Tibetan border, they also celebrate it here today. So, they just gave me this. It's apparently a typical kind of snack that they eat during this celebration. So, let's see. It's kind of a little bit sweet. Followed by another delicious dalbat, of course. So, if you're wondering how it kind of works with the water situation on the trail, basically, along the way, there are these taps that you can just refill it. So, that's great. But obviously, our poor Western stomachs can't always handle the water that comes out of these taps. So, that's why I brought these. They are like aqua taps and you just put like one little tablet in your bottle and you wait for 30 minutes and then it's supposed to be safe to drink. I just never have the patience to wait 30 minutes. I have to say it does taste kind of funny and it smells a little bit weird, but it hydrates. It does the job. That's what matters, I guess. So, today's actually the last of the longer days that we have. So, basically, on the first three days of this trek, you cover quite a lot of distance in one day. I think today is like another 17-18 kilometers. But after this, the days are gonna get a little bit shorter. I think we're gonna average around like 10 to 15 kilometers a day after this. So, in that regard, it gets a little bit better. However, in terms of elevation, of course, we're gonna get higher up. So, the hiking is gonna get more difficult and breathing is gonna get more difficult. So, just different challenges, I guess. And even on the rainy days, when the trail feels a bit long and your motivation naturally dips, there's something about the little surprises that keep you going. Like spotting monkeys and a mountain goat perched on the cliffs. By now, I was getting my morning routine down. Wake up, pack up, grab my gear and struggle to stuff the sleeping bag back into its case. Today, we are going to the Siala village. It takes around five hours. So, Siala is 3,500 meters. So, I am very excited about today because Govinda actually told me this is his favorite day on the entire trail. We are going to get some mountain views for the first time. Some real mountains, including a very special one. Hint, this trail is named after that mountain. It still rained a lot yesterday, especially at night, but at least it's dry now. And yeah, let's hope it stays that way. It's so cute. It's so cute. Happy, happy dog. Look at all the fresh snow of those mountains. This is so exciting. Another reason why today is an exciting day is because we might get our first snow check. Something that I actually haven't told you guys is that it's actually winter right now in Nepal, so I'm doing this check kind of in off-season. It is February right now. To give you an idea, high season or trekking season starts mostly from end of March, April or in the fall season, so October, November. Those are kind of like the best times to trek here in Nepal. But yeah, I can definitely tell it is getting colder and colder. Last night I actually was cold for the first time, so yeah, I definitely had to layer up already. Luckily though, hiking will definitely get you warm, so it's time to layer down again. I feel like we're doing quite a bit of elevation actually each day on this trek. It's like around 8, 900. Even though the pass only is at 5,106 meters, which is lower than both Everest Base Camp and the Tharongma Pass in Annapurna. But I think it's because you also start at quite a low elevation on the Manasui trek, so naturally you're gonna have to climb more, do more incline. Plus it's also just a lot of up and down every day, so that of course also adds up. Coffee! Coffee! Tuzuchi. That one. Tuzuchi. We're now in the mountain source. So right now we are in a place called Loh, and we're gonna have lunch here. And then after this, it's about two more hours to Shala. The snow line is very close. It's just after like just right up here. So probably those last two hours are gonna be spent in the snow. And I think, no it's still rain, but it's still snowing probably up there. So definitely in Shala we're gonna have we're gonna have snow. It's gonna get cold from now on. It's official. The first snow is here. Little did I know that this was nothing compared to what we were going to get. So we actually just passed some people that were on the way back from Samdo, which is one of the villages from the next few days. Apparently they turned back because the snow is like this deep right now. It's crazy and they just didn't want to continue. So they turned back. So yeah, not ideal conditions, but we still have a couple days. So let's hope when we get there, it will be a bit better. Then just before arriving at our end destination, we passed this monastery tucked away on the trail. Well guys, that was really really cool. So like I said before already, it is currently the Tibetan New Year over here. And celebrations go on for like four or five days. So right now they're also celebrating here in the monastery behind me. And they actually invited us in to celebrate with them. And it was so amazing. Like we got to sit with the monks and also the Buddhist villagers. And they gave us like Tibetan tea, which is kind of this like, it's quite sour. It's like a mix of butter and milk and salt. And yeah, they gave us all kinds of food and even some local alcohol as well, because apparently that's how they celebrate it here. So yeah, it was really really cool to be able to get a glimpse of what it looks like to celebrate New Year's here. Obviously, I barely filmed anything in there out of respect. So you'll have to do it with my word. But it was really really amazing. I'm really thankful we got to do that. Also, I am definitely a bit tipsy from that local wine that they gave us at the monastery. I'm having the best time, you guys. I'm just listening to some music and just kicking ass on this last stretch of the day. They have alcohol here? Yeah, yeah, yeah. That's interesting. That's not very good for health, right? Everything still looks very closed. Is it because it's off-season? Off-season and then celebrating the new year. Lots of people are still... Normally in winter time, here's local people going to the Kathmandu. And then when they celebrate the new year, and then after then they come in here. So we're just a bit early. Yeah, definitely. So Govinda just said that behind that beautiful monastery over there, this is where Manaslu is. Yeah, no beautiful mountain views today, unfortunately, because of the clouds. But hopefully, hopefully tomorrow we get to see mountains and especially Manaslu. Finally! The next morning, we all agreed to wake up for sunrise, hoping that the skies would have cleared and we'd finally get our first real mountain views. And we weren't disappointed. It's officially freezing. My toothpaste is also frozen. Good morning, everyone. As you can see, there are 360 degree mountain views around me right now. It is absolutely, insanely beautiful here. Unfortunately, though, we did get the news that the pass, as of now, is closed because of the heavy snowfall there, which is sad. But luckily, we do have like three or four more days before we actually reach the pass. Govinda said that it's probably going to take a little bit longer for the pass to open again than that. So that's why we also decided to make today kind of a rest day or like a waiting day. And we're going to do it here in Shala, because Shala is basically the most comfortable place to stay at before we go higher up. So it's just better to wait here than to wait somewhere up there. With the pass off limits for now, today turned into an opportunity to relax, drink plenty of tea and just take it easy. We did manage to sneak in a short hike up the ridge to help with acclimatization. But honestly, it was mostly just an excuse to step outside and wander through a winter wonderland. As we made our way up, the snow seemed to stretch on forever, each step taking us deeper into a scene straight out of a postcard. And then, when we reached the top, we were greeted with an even more breathtaking view of Manaslu. This is amazing. So yeah, that's Manaslu. That's one of the 14 highest peaks in the world. Climbing that mountain is no joke. It's a very technical mountain. I think about 300 to 400 people safely make it every year. But also, every year people die. It's a harsh reminder of the power of those mountains. But yeah, it's just so incredible to see this mountain on such a beautiful day as well with clear skies, blue skies, sun. Govinda said he's been here over 50 times and he said he's only seen the mountain like this about 15 times from those 50 times. So yeah, I think we are very, very lucky and it's just insane. What a beautiful day. The rest of the day was spent lazying around and catching up on some much-needed chores. The tea house was packed with trekkers, some returning after being turned back from the pass and others waiting for the weather to clear, like us. Despite the downtime, there was a shared sense of anticipation, like we were all in the same boat, just waiting for the next step. Today was a short hiking day, just a three and a half kilometer stretch, which equals a bit over an hour to the next village called Samar Goan. It was a beautiful stretch with lots of yaks dotting the path and the mountains looming in the distance. We passed through a small village along the way where Govinda took me to this hidden away 500 year old monastery. So you turn it three times, is it for good luck? Yeah, one time or two times, it doesn't matter. Okay. Because normally we do that three times. Yeah. So you can do it one time. Can I do it? Yeah, you can. Oh, really? Like this? Yeah. It's heavy. Oh, besides all the beautiful nature that you see, you also get to see a lot of culture along the and like you pass through so many villages where people are still living the authentic way of life. Like I feel like how they've been living like hundreds of years ago. And I feel like that's very unique. Like you don't get to experience that when you're doing an Apurna or Everest base camp. And I guess that is one of the benefits of the restricted flow of tourists that they have here in the Manasco area, because it means less disturbance, right? To the traditional lifestyle. So yeah, instead of like switching to the tourism industry, people are still farming or cattle rearing. It really feels like time has been standing a little bit still here and it's just really, really beautiful to see and very special to witness. Once we dropped off our stuff at the tea house and refueled with some masala tea, there was still plenty of time left to explore. Samagohan happens to also be the starting point of a day trip to Manaslu base camp, which is often included when you book a trek to the Manaslu circuit. Unfortunately though, with all the snow, reaching base camp isn't possible this time of year. Choosing to trek in winter definitely has its pros, but it also has its limitations. So instead, we headed to Birendra lake, a short, easy 45 minute hike. This glacial lake sits right at the base of Manaslu at 3,700 meters. At the bottom of the lake, there are all these tiny stacks of stones, which according to Buddhist tradition, symbolize good luck and balance. Each stack is like a quiet prayer for a successful journey. And if you're feeling brave, you can even take a dip if you want. But fair warning, it's cold. After a refreshing dip, we decided to try and venture a bit further onto the Manaslu base camp trail and just see how far we get, hoping to at least get some more stunning views along the way. And although we didn't get too far, those views did deliver. So let me quickly show you on the map where we are. We are currently here in Samagoa, and yesterday we walked over here towards the Manaslu base camp. And now today we are going to a place called Samdo. And then after Samdo, it's just one more day until we reach Dharmasala, which is the final place before the Larkapass. And then of course, there's still the way back down after the pass. We kicked off today with a visit to another beautiful monastery. A quiet and peaceful start. Little did we know that peacefulness wouldn't last very long. Today, we actually got some good news and some bad news. The good news was that the weather forecast for the next three days were looking good, perfect for crossing the pass. The bad news was, to make it in time, we now had to rush and actually skip one acclimatization day and a side trip to the Tibetan border. We'd been expecting to wait for better weather, but suddenly it's all about moving fast. That's one of the realities of trekking in winter. Things can change quickly. But honestly, I'm just grateful we still have a chance to cross. So with that new plan in place, it was time to push on. But pretty quickly, it became clear that the snow, that seemed to be getting deeper with every step, wasn't going to make it easy for us. This actually is my first ever snow trek that I'm doing, like long. Yep, definitely my first time. And I have to say, it is a very different experience. It's a different kind of beauty, but also a different kind of struggle. It just makes walking like three times more exhausting, because with every step, you have to like, either you slip a little bit, or you have to regain your strength and balance. It's just a lot of work. But yeah, I'm gonna get by. We're here to learn, right? For everything, there needs to be a first time, and I'm sure with time, it will get easier. I feel like Bambi on freaking ice. This is insane. Also, normally I'm very used to just hiking in my Nike trail runners, and I love trekking on them. However, if there's snow this deep, I actually think I would recommend to take actual high ankle hiking boots, because my feet are just constantly wet. Oh no, this is not what the weather predictions told us. It's starting to snow. Okay, first things first, is get into some warm clothes, because it is getting really cold now. Wet wipe shower. Yeah, at this point, showers aren't really an option anymore, since obviously the water up here is frozen. So this is your best attempt at staying clean. Not glamorous, but it kind of does the trick. And then, top it all off, this amazing jacket that I borrowed from the line masters. It's so warm and cozy. Ready. And just like showers are out of the question, looking decent, that ship has sailed a while ago too. I think today was the first day that I actually struggled a little bit. And I don't even mean like cardio wise or anything, like I actually feel really, really good up until now. I feel like it has been quite easy so far. Govinda also checks my blood oxygen levels every night and they all look good. And I just feel really good and really healthy, I guess. I think the thing that I'm struggling with the most is the technical part. I am so not used to walking on snow, walking on ice. I've never done that. But yeah, I just hope that over the next couple days, it's going a little bit better and I'm going to get more used to it. And it's going to get a bit easier. Looking outside now though, it is actually snowing, which is not what they predicted in the weather forecast. So that's definitely not ideal because if this continues like this, that means there's going to be fresh snow and that's just going to make the next couple days really, really hard. It might actually also make it impossible for us to cross the pass. So let's hope it will stop snowing soon and fingers crossed that everything is going to go well from here. Another day, another Dao Bai. That night, everything felt peaceful. Laughter, music, heat from the fire and the comfort of good company. But outside, the cold was creeping back in. The final stretch was coming and the pass was open, for now. But with the snow on the way, nothing was certain. And deep down, I knew we hadn't seen the hardest part yet. It's literally up to my knees. Manaslu is supposed to be right over there. But who knows? Awkward! Just to give you a little behind the scenes of how making a video like this works. Basically, you walk the entire trail twice because you walk, then you walk back to catch the camera and then you walk again. Yeah, this is good preparation for what's to come. It's like rock climbing. It's like rock climbing, yeah. Oh, that wasn't too bad.