Join us on this week’s Epic Family Road Trip as we take our overland truck on a rugged journey to Hamningberg, Norway, one of the most remote and scenic destinations in the Arctic. From dramatic coastal cliffs to winding mountain passes, this adventure combines truck camping, overlanding, and family travel at its best. After exploring the historic fishing village of Hamningberg, we drive deeper into the wilderness where solitude and wild beauty surround us. Along the way, Carol finally finds what she’s been searching for our entire trip so far—a naturally shed reindeer antler, a true symbol of the Arctic and a cherished memento from our overland journey. Peter and Carol have been overlanding across Scandinavia in our expedition truck, discovering hidden campsites, cooking meals on the road, and sharing the challenges and joys of full-time family travel. Whether you’re passionate about off-grid camping, overlanding expeditions, or just love watching families explore the world together, this episode will inspire you to pack your gear and head out on your own adventure.
it's just my imagination but bigger and wilder. They just come trotting right
across the field here. You can see them with binoculars. You can see them high up in
the mountains. They're all over the place here. It's really a neat area. Really wild.
We're gonna get as many pictures as we can and we're gonna go for a hike
up into these mountains here to try to find... Carol's gonna try to find that shed.
Right, Carol? Yep.
There's a light bulb. Oh, yeah.
They blend into the rocks.
It started raining a little bit but this town is really something else. All the
homes are nestled in the rocks and then there's just pathways that the reindeer
have made all throughout the rocks with all the wildflowers everywhere. And then
when you go and look at the sea or the bay... I don't know what they call these.
There's just wild... like there's birds of all sorts everywhere.
Sailboats, fishing vessels out there. It is really something else. And it's so
quiet. Like even when you're camping with like 20 or more other camper vans, it's
dead quiet all the time. Like there's no loud music. There's no one talking super
loud. Everyone's just soaking it in and out here for the experience of nature I
guess. A lot of these homes are so pretty. And then there's some that are abandoned
here. But I'll show you the rocks while I talk to you. And then out of the blue you'll
just see a big reindeer just pop up and move and they blend right into the rocks.
You don't even know they're there until you've passed them basically. It's been
driving me nuts so I finally googled it to see whether reindeer and caribou are
the same species. And apparently they are. So they're exactly the same animal.
Especially in wild populations. So they say in America we call them caribou
unless they're domesticated or in you know agriculture or farms or have them
in herds or things like that. Then we call them reindeer. Here in Europe
they're mostly called reindeer but they're the same species. So now we know.
Is one bigger than the other though? Kind of like moose species? Like they are
bigger in certain areas? Possibly yeah. I think the more wild they are the bigger
they get. These guys seem big. Yeah here they seem about the same size as
caribou that we've seen in the Arctic in Canada and in the U.S. So yeah. It's good to know.
Glad you got that off your chest Pete. Yeah. Now we can go for a coffee.
You see all these what were they homes or were they I don't know there's no
plaque to read. Yeah but I was also doing some research on this little town of
Hammingberg which is an abandoned fishing village but people come up here
they still own homes so they do spend their summer vacation up here because
it's so quiet and we're way up in the Arctic and it's just it actually is an
amazing place we've been here just our second day but I could easily spend a
month up here it's just that type of place but those buildings here you can
still see some of the original buildings and that's because even though it was
occupied during World War two this is one of the few villages that weren't
taken down by the what do they call it the scorched earth policy so it got
spared somehow that's nice because there's a lot of really old buildings
here. Beautiful. You guys probably can't see it but there's a herd of reindeer
right there just chilling out in town you can see on the road all the
droppings everywhere and all the sights and smells like wildflowers and
close to her nest. They go and sit like that to distract you away from her eggs
we should walk on by. It's okay little girl we're not gonna bother your nest.
Here just like in the last town we stumble upon more ruins from the Nazi
occupation of World War two. Wow. Only now after visiting these sites
talking with locals and reading the comments from our Norwegian viewers are
we beginning to grasp the devastation the war left on northern Norway.
Nearby Kirkenes was a Nazi stronghold with 160,000 troops. It became the second
most bombed place in Europe after Malta. Raids striking nearly every three days
for three years. Civilians hid underground in mines to survive. This was
off the trail a little ways but look at that. When the Nazis retreated in 1944
they burned almost everything. Homes, schools, churches, even livestock. Entire
communities were erased. Hemdingburg was one of the few places spared. Its ruins
still whisper the story of a history few outside of Norway know. From all the
watching all the World War two movies as a kid just walking towards that pill
box had a eerie feeling like someone's gonna pop up any second. It's crazy
there's so many remnants. All the bases of the huge guns there must have been
four or five massive guns up here and then I guess that pill box kind of
protected the whole area. What a crazy place. Wow like look at the white sand
clear ocean water in this town. Unbelievable. There's an insane amount of World War two
infrastructure still in place up here. Pretty neat to walk through the ruins
and remember you know they say if you don't learn from history you're destined
to repeat it. It was good to walk through places like this. It wasn't that long ago you know think about it
80 years. These days were anticipated in 1942 in words spoken by an American
president Franklin Delano Roosevelt. If there is anyone who still wonders why
this war is being fought let him look to Norway. If there is anyone who has any
delusion that this war could have been averted let him look to Norway and if
there is anyone who doubts of the Democratic will to win again I say let
him look to Norway. She has little chicks off to the side so she's
leading us away from her brood of chicks. Let's go let's take her bait make her
feel better. The cafe just opened here and we're gonna go get a coffee or something and enjoy the beautiful view.
It seems to be a tradition here having a coffee and a waffle in the morning and I tell you what, it tastes pretty good.
We're actually in Hammingberg where we spent the night. I've been looking online to see where we are in terms of latitude and longitude. We're actually 120 kilometers north of Taktiakta which is a fine part to believe.
This area even though it's way in within the Arctic Circle it is protected in
terms of the temperature by the jet stream which in Taktiakta and Yukon and
Northwest Territories and Alaska it's much much colder. You've got permafrost
which you don't have here so there are some differences but it's neat to be up
here in this beautiful little cafe enjoying a Norwegian treat.
After warming up at the cafe over a delicious coffee and waffle we decided to begin
working our way southward down the coast. Over the years of overland travel
Carol has developed a keen eye almost a sixth sense for discovering epic camp
spots and wild places. So as we were driving out of town a little dirt road
winding north along a beautiful river caught her attention. We pulled over at a
gravel patch beside the river and noticed the road narrowing as it
disappeared deeper into the mountains. Unsure whether it was passable by truck
we turned to a local fisherman nearby to ask if he knew where it led. I just spoke
to some folks that were camping back in there they actually walked about seven
kilometers back into the along the river he's a fly fisherman but he said
you can we could get in there and camp at the end of the road so let's go you
want to do it yeah we have enough food we have enough well we'll make it yeah
we have some freeze-dried meals and I don't know I think a few cans of tuna so
that where we were last night was the end of the road for most folks for RVs
and things like that but this is the end of the end of the road it's a lot
way back here in the mountains a lot of folks go fly-fishing from here or they
backpack into the mountains and there was a gentleman and his wife parked at
the very end and they just left and they said you're welcome it's your spot so
we're gonna head back in there and then we feel like we're camped as far back as
you can get on the eastern side of Norway so yesterday I went about 12
kilometers the other way on this beautiful reindeer trail going around a
lake yeah it was just really quiet no one out there whoa no one out there but
me and so that was nice a nice change from the crowds to just peaceful Pete
has a swollen Achilles tendon right now so he's kind of nursing that
unfortunately so we've been reading up on some stretches and things to help him
out with that but he's gonna take yesterday and today well yesterday he
did like a 10k hike with me but by the end of it he was like uncomfortable and
so we decided last evening when I went out again that he would rest it up kind
of elevate it and yeah so I'm just gonna check out either by the river or going
up into the hills here our mountains it's been raining quite hard this
morning and I didn't wear my Gore-Tex boots which I think I'll regret but
I would find one you know what's the craziest thing is when we were driving
in here going to the most easterly point or I can't remember I can't think right
there was this beautiful old cabin and Pete and I were just driving a little
bit like well not fast but just you know how you're just so into like looking at
all the reindeer and what's around you was like breathtaking and then I turned
at the last minute to my right and saw this beautiful cabin and all sudden this
reindeer looked up and he only had one antler I was just so sad I missed that
picture because I had Pete's big lens on the camera and I like haunted me for
the last two days and I was like I was telling the boys and Caroline I'm like
that was the perfect picture for the Arctic you know because it wasn't
perfect like he had only one and then it was about this size too like he was a
young young reindeer and I think maybe he dropped this and then I found it
from here when you're climbing in the mountains like kilometers passed by like
crazy I gotta tell Pete hey Pete I might be too much in the valley I'll have to
hoof it up to the top of the hill because it you go up and then way down
and it's kind of more line-of-sight I wonder this is unbelievable I was had my
new vortex goggles which I've been just loving and just searching searching like
I have a headache I was just I gotta climb higher to let Pete know I I'm
still stunned this is amazing like I remember I was talking to someone I'm
like my number one thing is in Norway I mean in Finland and Sweden too but I'm
like Norway was my number one and to be here it's just the same feeling as in
when I found two really old caribou way out there and caribou antlers
yeah well done I knew there was something there only the whites are
sticking out but they were only about 10 feet from each other this is the same
feeling just a hundred more kilometers more north than Tuk which blows my mind
because it's so it feels so different here not as a oh what do you call it
arctic-y but it is but oh my word but yeah I was talking to someone I said
that's my dream and they're like yeah that's like very highly unlikely like
especially this time of year you know so many people have come this way just got
breathe and try and get in line up over this like look at this guys this is the
best day ever hey Pete you're not gonna believe it I found one I swear it's the
same one that that guy was missing the young bull yeah you would have never
seen it unless you basically walked upon it like but I saw something I was
sitting on a all-white like granite rock probably a half a kilometer away I'm
like I don't know just something looks different but by the time I got here I
would have stepped right over it
maybe 5k I'll come back I might just keep on heading just a little bit up
over this Ridge and it smells it still has all of its velvet on so I promise
you it's that guys that I wanted to take the picture of okay I'm gonna pack
this on my backpack and then head maybe a half a kilometer towards the river and
then back to you okay that guy reindeer okay I'm gonna put this way guys you can
almost see fall colors coming in already on some of the tundra oh it's just so
beautiful I think tundra is my favorite landscape and then all the mountains I
love that the mist rolling through well have a big hike back I think I'll put my
binoculars away so I'm not tempted to keep looking find a caribou trail and
make my way back what a beautiful experience this has been and I'm just so
excited I love being out here by myself I mean with Pete would have been even
better but sometimes just to you can't think of any problems you're just
watching your footing watching the different trails and wildlife and the
that your surroundings is just breathtaking it's unbelievable
unbelievable is the word of the day here we go back on a trail all the berries
are coming into bloom there's quite a few of the red berries if you're from
here let me know what that is like yesterday when Pete and I were hiking I
had glass every once in a while and then I saw this guy with two dogs and he goes
right over all the spots that I was kind of looking at watching him just clip it
onto the back of his backpack I was just I wanted that so bad I was like
trying not to be jealous I was very happy for him you know he went out there
and looked a little bit harder than everyone else if anyone I often wonder
that I'm like Pete do you think any of the other women here are thinking about
sheds he's like probably not I love guys caribou trails just everywhere I think
I'm gonna keep this rock as a reminder of that big one I sat on and then
spotted the shed remember it all right we're on the trail now it's about five
kilometers back from here and there you can kind of see the truck almost back
wow nice just like that one I wanted to take a picture of it's pretty special
it's still got its velvet on still does and it's young and it just like you can
see where it just snapped off unfortunately but good for you for me
he was probably looking at me going hey over there I left it for you if you look
for it that's pretty cool nice you can see where it snapped oh yeah I have to
get that velvet off it kind of smells but I think it's cute
good morning that was a really remote beautiful camp here so glad we found
this spot Carol went for a hike this morning with the intention of doing what
she always does which is looking for reindeer antlers or any kind of antlers
at all and sure enough she found one this morning so that's super exciting
yeah good job Joe so now we're gonna make our way back out of here and it's a
very narrow trail right now and then it gets onto a very narrow paved road
through some really unique formations you probably saw on the way in here and
then we go past all the way back down to I think it was called Vazzo and that's
where we filled up with water and we'll go fill up with water there and maybe
spend the night there we'll see how it goes
smells like they're eating something super fragrant almost like eucalyptus
but I think it's the bushes yeah well there's sage some type of sage
there's a whale swimming out here we've seen about five or six of them now just
driving along but also up in Hemmingburg I'm thinking I mean it's a big big beast
it's it's got a dorsal fin but not nearly as tall as a orca but maybe a
big pilot whale a little too far out to capture with this lens
oh but he's just going up and down
if anyone's in there nice view of the fjord
like there's one spot here oh nice white sand everywhere that's kind of cool
like that spot right there give them their privacy but I'm sure it kind of
goes all over the place look at I mean there's a camp spot up there even Pete
they're like no they look so cozy yeah I hate that feeling you're like we
really needed time by ourselves
little do they know we're not gonna bother them we're just gonna go right on by
beautiful spot yeah I love it good job Pete so update on the apps we've been
using park for night a lot more than I overlander even though some we found
some epic spots on I overlander lately we're batting a thousand here with park
for night even though last night that was just on an instinct yeah last night
was Carol just said do you mind going down that dirt road for a minute I was
like what for just let's try it and it turned out to be well we we saw fishermen
fly-fishing and then there was a big parking lot and then we talked to
someone and they were like of course there's another four three four
kilometers I like how quiet it is so we're good front to back and I'll just
check side to side here someone is asking what that app is it comes with
iPhone I just have it in my settings it's there's a measuring tool and a
level combined so yeah I didn't even have to download that
this residue has been here and it was the approval sticker from shipping so
it's in all our shots using a bit of WD-40 to try and loosen it up I'll just
let that sit there we put the excess I say let let it sit penetrate the adhesive
hopefully we can get it off of there it's in all our camera shots but it's
also blocks a portion of the windshield
well these are big and juicy I need to pick him get a bowl
come back out here
in the morning with them
there's just thousands of them
everywhere
I found an antler, at least a little piece of one, I'll keep it.
Some camp spots are just too serene and beautiful to leave in the morning.
Norway has given us so many of these places, but here along the rugged coast of northern
Norway we decide to linger a few days.
Carol spends the time working on her antler, peeling the velvet, washing, and drying it
in the sun and wind.
Each day we edge closer to the Russian border and the end of our Norwegian adventure, but
it's not over yet.
Join us next week as we taste traditional Norwegian food, whale, arctic char, reindeer
tongue, then we'll head out onto the ocean to fish for king crab and dive deeper into
the culture and traditions of the far north.
What do you got?
Whales.
One off first, and then make a small snip there, and a small snip there.
Thanks for watching.
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caught up.
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And in the meantime, we'll see you down the road.