經典手工皮具-植鞣革 【經典手工皮具】皮盤製作詳細教程 | 氛圍感拉滿 | 沒試過的可以試試。

Hi, I'm Chuck Dorsett from Weaver Leathercraft. We are going to do something cool with leather. We're going to make two bowls. First off, this fall leaf. Is that not beautiful? And a simple valet with a cool little stamp decoration. Biggest point here. Very little skill and very few tools required. Second big point. Sky literally is the limit with creativity. Now, we're going to look at a pic here in just a second. And kind of open that up. But right here, fall leaf. Now, with that, we can do four leaves. Spring, summer, winter and fall. Are those not beautiful? But let's take that a step further. Let's use those as decoration in our home. We can add contrasting colors to our home decor. Or matching colors. Or we could go, say, along a certain theme with our home. But we're just talking about a leaf. Think of a gargoyle or dragon or horse head. Car. Motorcycle. And you know what? Right now, I'm going to wander off into the woods. And I may not be back. But that's one of the coolest points. You're going to see. This is super easy to do. Now, anything I use in this video, weaverleathercraft.com. Or check below. We've got links there. Going to take you straight to the website. So let's do this. Let's step over here and create a very easy pattern for both of our balls. Now, this segment pattern usually takes the longest of the video. But the funny thing is, these are so easy. Again, very little skill. Very few tools required here. So what we're going to do is we're going to cut our pattern. But again, that would take like 4 seconds. So let's concentrate a little bit on the creative side of this. Because there's so many ways. Again, not going to roll here. But right off the bat, we've got our 4 colors of leaves from the 4 seasons. Spring, summer, winter, and fall. That's our winter leaf. But notice this, too. There's my pattern. It's a paper plate. And not even a pretty one. This is just plastic tubing from the hardware store. And, of course, duct tape. Now, we jump over to this. More of our spring colors. Well, there we go. Same mold, just minus our tubing. So we can get a mold from just about anything. Our kitchen is full of all kinds of designs. This is an odd one. Just inexpensive. But wouldn't that make a cool holiday bowl? Now, one more. And then one more. All right. And then we'll get moving. All right. So there's our summer leaf. Nice deep green. But again, just a flat serving platter. Right here, bottom. We need a flat bottom. So that's one of the elements we're looking for. But right here on our edge, that is simply a round end punch and a belt tip punch. One more. I promise. One more. Okay. So, supermarket. Just an inexpensive glass bowl. Perfect mold. Because look at that. Isn't that cool? It's almost got kind of like a Viking boat feel to it. So, all right. On the creative end. No limit to the possibilities. All right. Let's start with our small round bowl. Now, this is just a valet I have found somewhere in my house. But again, one of the elements. We've got a flat bottom to that. So our bowl will sit flat on a table. Now, here's the funny part with this. You know what? There's my pattern. Okay. Well, that wasn't tough. All right. But a couple of notes here, too. First off, if we cut this straight from this edge, our lift's only going to come up about 3 quarters of an inch of the distance. Well, that's okay. That's what we're going to shoot for. But my point there is we can always jump over to a wing divider and we can make this bowl any circumference we want. Here's the cool part. With this. Now, this bowl is a little beat up. You know what? It's used and loved. I use this for my camera batteries. But with this and a wing divider, I can extend that size, so, therefore, I can curl over the edge of the bowl. In setting our spots, we're going to look at that in just a second. Super easy way to do that and find our center point. All right. So let's do this. Let's flip this over. Simply draw this out with a pen. There we go. Okay. Easy enough. Well, you know what? There's our pattern. All right. So let's take our knife and cut this out. And there we are. Okay. Our circle is cut. There's our pattern. Now, our first thought, when we need to find a center mark, it's going to be tough to do. No. Super easy and it has an added benefit. So let's just take our bowl or our pattern and fold that over. Okay. So now, we've got a center line. Let's fold that one more time. Edge to edge. Corner to corner. There we go. All right. Let's flatten that out. Now, we have four lines. We've got our center line. But we also have four lines. So if we want to drop spots in and around, we can do that. But also, too, if we fold this yet again, now, I've got eight points, equal distance from each other. Therefore, I can make any kind of a mark and everything is going to stay symmetrical. Very cool trick. All right. Let's step over to our leaf. Now, this is the fun part. I love these. They are gorgeous. First thing, easy enough for a pattern because you can go online. You can look up or search for leaf silhouette images and you will be astounded at the quantity you're going to see there. But all I've done here is I've taken a leaf and I've blown that up to fit my bowl. I can just put that on my copier, hit enlarge or decrease, and I've got my edges. Lines, easy enough. These are simply going straight to the points on the leaf. So I can draw that in. Now, let's do this. Let's fold our paper. So when I cut this, the leaf is perfectly symmetrical. So I'm going to cut this pattern out with my knife. Now, one good point about this is with our inside corners, all I have to do is cut out because the funny thing on a leaf does not have to be perfect. In fact, imperfect makes it look much more natural. But with that, I don't really have to worry about my cuts because everything works out from a center point. So let's pop this out. There we go. Okay. Well, that looks like a good pattern. Very cool. Easy enough. So nothing we've done thus far, difficult. Now, let's step over to our main table, cut some leather. For our bowls, we're going to use two weights. First off, for our small round, we're going to bump down to a 4 to 5 ounce. That's about 1.7 millimeters. Durability, not going to be an issue, but the problem here is we're going to make a 90-degree bend on that. So I need a lighter weight. I probably wouldn't go much lighter than a 4 to 5. When we jump over to our larger leaf, we're going to use an 8 to 9 ounce. That's about 3.5 millimeters. But here, we don't have any heavy bends. We've got a flat bottom. One thing we're looking for, but that's going to be no issue. We can go 9, 10, or even 7, 8 on that. It's going to have some good durability. Now, with this, I love this leather. This is a Weaver Select. Now, the great thing for us crafters, we sell this in 12 by 12 and 12 by 24-inch panels. So, therefore, we can get a great leather affordably. We don't have to buy a full side. Now, with our pattern, this is not great pattern material by any means, but we all have copy paper. Now, what I would like to do is transfer this over to some of our plastic sheeting. It makes a great pattern. But in this situation, we've taken this straight from our bowl. So I'm simply going to flip my bowl over and I'm going to use this to mark my leather. Now, pencil, best way to go, but the camera's never going to pick that up. So I'm going to use a pen. But what I need to do is make sure that when I cut, I'm inside my ink line. All right. There we go. That looks good. Now, always, new project, new blade. So I'm going to cut this just a hair inside my ink line. And there we go. Okay. There's our round. Now, spot on perfect. That does not have to be. Got a little bit of a point there so we can just take our knife and clip that. All right. Well, that looks pretty good. Let's set that aside. We're going to jump over to our main leaf. Now, with this, again, 12 by 12 panel, 8 to 9 ounce. I'm going to drop this in. Simply trace this around the edge with my pen. And there we go. Okay. Coming around to that point. Very good. There's our leaf. Now, with this, two points. First off, when we're cutting, with this design, all I have to do is cut from my inner point. So that's not going to be terribly difficult. But at the same time, if you have a little experience or you have some tools in your shop, you can always jump up to an English point. Therefore, I can drop those in, right in those cuts. Makes the whole thing very easy. But we don't have to go that route. With my knife, I'm simply going to start on my inside corner, and I'm going to cut out. There we go. So therefore, super easy to cut. All right. Easy to do. Now, if you need to make two passes with your knife, that's no issue. You can certainly do that. So I'm going to cut that around. There we go. All right. Didn't cut completely through. But now I can drop my blade angle, make my second pass with that. And with a low blade angle, I have more control. But also, too, if I keep that blade angle low, it's going to follow the path that's already there. All right. So let's cut the rest of this out. And pop that out. All right. Well, that looks good. Now, imperfect is what we're looking for. On our bowl, we want to be as close to our line as possible. Right here doesn't matter. In fact, the more imperfect, the better it looks. All right. We've got these two pieces ready to go. Let's step over to our stamping table. We're going to drop in a simple stamp border there and drop in our scribed lines for our veins on our leaf. Now, decorating a project, it's my favorite part because there are an unlimited amount of possibilities from full-on tooling to simply taking an awl and scribing in a design. Keeping with the theme of this video, we're going to keep it simple. Drop in a floral border and then a cool little design in the center. With this, this is a natural veg, so what we need to do is case this. So I'm simply going to take some water. There we go. Now, all manner of opinion on casing leather. Top-end pros, they'll soak their leather for about 45 seconds, maybe a minute, and then put it in a baggie and let that sit for 24 hours. Let that water wick in deeply. For me, just my opinion, I want a little dryness on the back of my leather because that, to me, gives me some resistance as my tool moves in. Therefore, again, in my opinion, I get a little more of a consistent stamp. Now, we're going to take a wing divider because we're going to drop in our border 3 quarters of an inch in. With this, we can certainly put that on the edge, but what happens is now that disappears when we look at that straight on. When we drop that in a little bit, very cool. That looks good. So, we're going to come in 3 quarters of an inch, set my wing divider, 3 quarters. Now, I want a very light line here. Our stamp's going to cover this up, but nonetheless, I want a nice, light line. All right, there we go. Now, again, one of those places, the camera's probably not going to pick that up, but I can see it well enough. All right, so let's take a floral stamp. Now, there's a left and a right to this, and you'll notice I've got a little piece of blue there so I can determine if that's towards or away from me. So, with a mallet, I'm going to drop that right in my line, give it 2 good pops. Very nice, very clean, very consistent, all right? What we can do, though, if we get this a little inconsistent, I can feel that stamp sit back down in, and I can lean it away. I can lean it towards or away from me if I'm having trouble with that, so, therefore, I can make that more consistent. All right, let's flip that stamp, butt that right up against it, right on my line. There we go. Very cool. All right, I'm going to work my way all the way around. Now, as we get around to the end here, we need to double-check, just kind of eyeball. Looks like we're going to come out nicely. If we're short or long, we can always stretch or contract the stamps or the distance between these as we move. Let me make sure I've got the right one. There we go. All right, but it looks like we're good here. It's going to give us a good meet. Very nice. Okay. Looks good. So, top-notch stamper, you don't have to be to make this look good. Now, our center mark, we're going to drop in a small flower on our center. So let's drop this in. Already found that. Easy enough. And drop in a small mark. Okay. We're going to jump over to a simple flower tool. Pretty cool. It's got six little petals on it. So let's drop that in the middle. Now, let's work that around a little bit. Oh, there we go. Okay. We can see every detail in that flower. Now, let's jump up to one of my favorites. This is called a continuous mule's foot. Now, I'm going to drop this just on each point of our flower. And there we go. Very cool. Spot-on perfect it is not. But that looks great. All right. Very cool. We're going to set that aside to dry. Let's jump over to our larger leaf. Now, with this, we're going to case this. But since this is an eight to nine ounce, pretty thick piece of leather, we're going to case this and then give it about 15, maybe 20 minutes to let that water wick in a little bit deeper. The four to five, no problem. That goes in pretty fast. But here we need just a minute. So let's get that wet. There we go. Now, notice how my water is sitting for just a second on my top grain. Good. That's what we want. And we want a good consistent look all the way across. There we go. You know what? Let's add just a little more water. There we are. Well, that looks good. Okay. Notice clean and consistent. Nice chestnut color throughout. And the water's taking just a second to wick in. All right. Let's give that about 15 minutes. Okay. Well, that looks good. Very consistent. Nice chestnut color. And I can feel the moisture in it. Now, with our leaf, again, abstract, that's kind of the point here. So my first mark, in fact, really the only mark we're going to use is right here, where the veins originate. So let's put a small mark there. Very cool. Now, with our straight edge, I'm going to take this, just like our pattern, and I'm going to run from that mark out five lines to each point. Now, you can be as detailed as you want on this. But again, abstract is fine. So with my awl, let's line up. There we go. Let's make two passes with our awl. There we go. Okay. That looks good. So from here, line there, line there, one there and one there. There we go. Okay. That looks good thus far. Very cool. Now, from here, I'm going to do the same thing with my straight edge. I'm going to work my lines roughly from where I see them here out to our inside points and outside points. And our last line roughly from a little bit below that to right there. Now, we can always make points. We can always mark our leather from these points. But in all honesty, it's easy enough to follow. Well, that looks pretty cool. All right. Let's step over to our main table. We're going to wet form both of our bowls. Now, we can wet form two ways. Easiest is with water and then add our dye. The point I'm getting at there is we can wet form with dye. Say tomorrow is a birthday and we're just now working on their project. Yeah, it happens, right? But we can wet form with dye, get the same result, but it's a good bit messier. So let's start with water. Then we're going to dye drop our pieces back in our molds and let the dye dry. All right. So let's start right here. I'm simply going to sink this into the water. Here we go. We're going to get a good bit of water on this. Now, I'll actually be able to feel the leaf. It's going to be relatively heavy. There we go. Give that a good dip. Nice. Now, some of the higher-end pros, of which I am not, will add a small dab of soap to the water because that'll break the surface tension, let that water wick in more deeply, more quickly. But right there. There we go. Now, that's a little bit flimsy. So what I want to do is let's give that about 15 minutes to dry or not necessarily dry, but the water's going to wick in and a little bit of that surface water is going to evaporate out. Now, with our 4 to 5, that gets wet very quickly and that becomes very pliable, a little too pliable. So again, let's let these sit, maybe give them about 15 minutes, let that water wick in. Okay, about 15 minutes have passed and I can feel my leaf. Moisture, absolutely, but now it's pliable, but not flimsy. Over here, little bit more flimsy. So we'll give that a minute or two, but let's jump over to our leaf. Let's take our bowl. Now, looks good the way it is, but what we're going to do is drop that in and press that. Now, we have to be careful here, because with our water, with a wet leather, we can leave a fingernail mark or a finger mark in that very easily. So I'm simply with my thumbs going to press that down, work it in. Now, this looks pretty cool as it is, right bent, but what I want to do is I'm going to take these points, I'm going to bend those in a little bit, makes it really look like that leaf has dried and curled. There we go. Let's get that worked in a little bit. Good. Okay, now let's drop that back in our bowl and let's press down on that. Fits in there pretty nicely. Work those points in maybe a little bit. Good. Okay, well that looks very cool. All right. Let's leave that in that bowl. We're going to have to give that maybe four or five hours to dry. Then I'm going to take it out of the bowl, probably give it another hour. But you'll see, you'll be able to feel it when it's dry. There'll be no question. Now, we're going to jump over to this. Here's where we do need to be careful with our fingernails and our fingers, because we're going to really have to press this down on our edge. So I'm simply going to work this around, pushing this down, and I'm going to take probably a couple of minutes here to form this, or to work this down into our bowl. But thus far, well, that's starting to look very good. All right. So with my thumb, I'm going to press in, get down to that bend. But with this thumb, I'm going to work my edge, because you can see it's kind of rippling a little bit. Well, I can simply press that down with my thumb. So as I work around, there we go. All right. I'm going to work this for just a minute or two. All right. Working that around now. Notice too, I'm pressing in my stamp just a little bit. I've got to be a little cautious there. But there's really no way around that. But it's not going to look bad. In fact, thus far, that looks very cool. All right. I'm going to continue to work this, and just like our leaf, I'm going to give this four or five hours of dry time. All right. We've given these about four and a half, maybe five hours to dry. Very cool. That looks good. All right. I can feel it. No moisture. It is very dry. Jumping over to our main leaf here, or our bigger leaf. That looks good. All right. Very cool. Lays nice and flat, both. Now, two things, two points here. We can harden these further. We've got a leather firmer that we could paint the back with. That'd really give it some stiffness on both balls. But also, too, we could bake this. About half dry in our bowl, I can put this in our oven, low temp, about 200 degrees, maybe 210, for about 20 minutes. Pull it out, let it sit, maybe a couple, three, four hours, to thoroughly dry. But that will make that very stiff. But really, our eight to nine ounce, good durability. We are so close to having these done. So let's step over here, add some dye, lines, a little spray paint, a top coat, and we're finished with these beautiful balls. Now, dyeing. Biggest point here, dyeing leather does not have to be expensive, time-consuming, or messy. And you'll see exactly what I mean. Now, a couple of points while I put on my gloves. First off, we've got a plastic bag down here to protect our work surface. Well, now, it's not a perfect answer, but nonetheless, when we dye on this, though, that dye's going to pool, it's going to get very slippery, so it's hard to deal with. Drop in just some basic packing paper or wrapping paper. If I make a mess, we'll toss it. But also, too, we're going to dip dye. We can always use daubers, and these are great. They're lambswool. They'll hold a lot of dye. And a sponge, same thing. This is our dressing sponge. It's great for both water and dye. But what we're going to do is we're going to dip dye. Now, the only reason we can do that is we're using the ProDye. This is an oil-based dye stuff. It's an alcohol carrier, but because of that, all the difference in the world. Now, it's going to take a little extra dye to fill up our bin for us to dip dye. But you'll see, ease and outcome. That's what we're looking for. So, with our first leap, we're going to use a saddle tan. This is a gorgeous color. It's a bit of a reddish brown, but that's going to give us a really pretty fall color right across the middle of our leap. So let's just drop that in the dye, work it around, get every corner. With dip dyeing, too, we're going to get every edge, corner, hole, front, back, all in one. All right. Now, with that, let's just take a rag, just wipe off some of that excess dye, again, so we get a good, consistent look. All right. That looks good. Now, let's wipe this off of our hands because we're going to use our bowl again. Now, with this, though, I've got a little plastic wrap here because my wife, if I get dye on this bowl, she's going to kill me, but you know what? Half my shop has half our kitchen in it. All right. Let's lay that right there. We're just going to let that dry right where it is. Now, it's not going to take nearly the time it will with the water. I'd say maybe an hour, an hour and a half, give or take. All right. So I'm going to clean this up. I'm going to clean out my dye bin, and I'm going to drop in a beautiful mix. This is a light brown mahogany one-to-one mix, and I love it, but we're going to use this for our valet tray. All right. Easy clean up. We just use a funnel to get the dye back in our bottle, a couple of paper towels, get our plastic container cleaned out very nicely and easily. And again, really, even after clean up, I don't even have that much dye on my gloves, a little bit here. All right. So we've got our one-to-one light brown mahogany mix. Let's take our valet, do the same thing. There we go. All right. Let's tap that on the edge, take our rag, and again, we're just going to kind of rub out a little bit of that extra dye. That's going to give us a very consistent look. There we go. Okay. Well, that looks good already, so let's take our bowl, just like with the other, and our wrap. In fact, let's move this out of the way. There we go. All right. Drop that in. Same thing. There we are. Okay. Again, let's let that sit for maybe, I don't know, let's give that about three hours to dry in our bowl. From there, pin marks, a little spray paint top coat, we're done. Now, we've given this a little more than just a few hours. In fact, that's overnight, but look how clean and consistent that dye is. That's beautiful, and how easy was that to do when we dip dye. Okay, so that leaf ready. Actually sits nicely. Right here, looking good. Now, it's a little bit flat. We're going to take care of that with a top coat and make that color pop, but let's set that aside right now because on our leaf, what we're going to do is we're going to draw in our vein lines. Now, you can use like, maybe something like a fine tip sharpie, but to me, an ink pen just works great, and we've already got our lines scribed in, so it's going to be pretty easy, but what I do need to do is let's take our time as we're drawing these in, and there we go. Some of these might just need a second pass. We don't want that vein too strong, but at the same time, looking at some of the pictures online, these veins can be all manner of color. I've seen green, red, and yellow on those. All right, so, looks good thus far. Now, our next two steps, we're going to use spray paint satellite, so we need some good ventilation. In my shop, I've got a nice cross wind, fan blowing in, fan blowing out on the other side, but with these, we want to just go as light as we can, so I'm going to take a basic flat black, and I keep tape on that just to keep that dry, so we're going to take a flat black, and I'm just literally going to grace the top side of our leaf. In fact, when I spray this, if I'm going to try to hit this area, I'm actually going to try to maybe aim my spray paint over here, so I'm just getting a hair on the edge of that leaf. Oh, there we go. We don't want too much, okay? That's going to dry a little bit, but also, too, we've got some spotting there. Well, in this situation, that's okay, because we want that on an actual leaf, all kinds of little spots on them. Now, let's jump over to a yellow. We're going to go at the other end of this in the same manner, and just right across the bottom. There we go. That's all we need. Wow, does that look great, or what? Now, with this, the yellow, I can't find a good flat yellow that to me looks good, so that's a gloss. It's going to take a little bit extra time to dry. In fact, the black, almost dry now, but we need to give this maybe two hours to dry. We're going to jump back over and use a top coat on that. All right, we've given that plenty of drying time. In fact, it's still just a little bit tacky, so we may give that a couple more minutes. So let's jump over to our valet. Now, with this, we're going to use a rub-on top coat, and I love this. It's a leather balm, and we simply rub this on. In fact, no ventilation needed. What it's going to do, it's going to make that color pop. It's going to be very rich. Now, we can always use a dauber to apply this, but I tend to like to go with a rag just so that we can keep it just a little less heavy. I don't want this to streak on us because we've gone to a lot of trouble. Well, actually, we haven't gone to a lot of trouble to get it to look good with the dip dyeing, but let's drop that in there and get that all the way around. There we go. Force that down in and also two up on my edge. Let's just hit our edge with that. That's going to darken that a little bit. Fill in a hole there. Now, let's jump over to another cotton rag, dry rag, and what I'm going to do now is simply buff. Now, this always freaks me out because it always goes very matte, but as long as I keep buffing, about 15 or 20 seconds, that's going to get a very nice, low-gloss look to it. And there we go. OK, that's looking good. Let's work our edge a little bit. We're starting to be able to see a little bit of that gloss come through. Now, that's going to dry. It's going to dry a little bit and it's going to lighten up. So what I may say is let's give both bowls maybe another 15, 20 minutes to dry. This is done. We're just letting that dry. Right here, we're going to add our top coat. We're done. All right, ample drying time. That bowl looks great, doesn't it? Now, it's 4 to 5 ounces, so not terribly durable, but you know what? More than enough for some keys, car keys, change. All manner of items will work in that. Now, we're going to jump over to our leaf to add our top coat here. Satellite. It's one of my absolute favorites. First off, we need ventilation here. Secondly, it's a lacquer base, so we want to go light, but the cool thing is easy on and it's going to dry in about 30 seconds. So, let's take this. There we are. Now, with this, again, just a simple light pass. There we go. Now, one thing with satellite, though, this cannot be cold. We want this at room temperature or maybe a hair more. All right, let's lay that in and yet again, let's give it about two, maybe three minutes to dry. All right, couple of minutes to dry there. Is that not cool? Does that not look great? Lays flat, cool bowl, that black nice touch and that yellow fills in beautifully. Well, I could not be happier with the way our bowls have come out. Is that not gorgeous? All right, so the valet, simple little project, looks good, great gift, but on this leaf, that is cool. But here's the best part, very little skill, very few tools needed, and the creativity unlimited. We've just done one leaf. Think of the shapes and sizes of leaves and the colors we can add. But we can take it further than that. We could do a horse head, a car, a golf ball, a basketball. But you know what? I think my next bowl might be a tree of life. Would that not be cool? I hope every bowl you make is gorgeous. Let those creative juices flow. Good luck with your projects.