Discovering Japan's Hidden Christians - Journeys in Japan.

Nagasaki Prefecture in the far west of Japan. It was in this region that Christianity took a unique path unlike anywhere else in the world. Christianity arrived in Japan in 1549. However, some 60 years later, the faith was banned outright and remained so for almost two and a half centuries. Christians in Japan suffered brutal persecution. But even so, many people continued to practice their faith in secret. In 2018, UNESCO recognized as a World Cultural Heritage Site 12 locations that tell the story of those people, their history and culture. Together, they're known as hidden Christian sites in the Nagasaki region. On this edition of Journeys in Japan, Shizuka Anderson visits three locations in Nagasaki and Kumamoto Prefectures that maintain a deep connection to those people known to us as the hidden Christians. The hidden Christians in Japan have had such a long history that is still rather lesser known, even here in Japan. It's a topic that I've been very curious about, so I'm very excited to take this journey to various islands today and see what new things I can discover and uncover more about this incredible history. About a thousand kilometers west of Tokyo lies Sakitsu in Kumamoto Prefecture. This will be Shizuka's first stop. A beautiful place. Just stunning. Oh, look at that! There is a statue of Saint Mary up ahead. And apparently, this island put this statue here in order to pray for the protection of the fishing boats that went out to sea. So beautiful. Oh, you can see really clearly see the church right here. So this must be Sakitsu, the World Heritage Site. Oh, this is so interesting to see. It looks like such a tiny little town with these traditional Japanese houses with the traditional style of tiling on the roof. But then right behind it is this really western design architectural building as the church. It's such a unique contrast that I've never seen before. Sakitsu is a small port town with a population of just under 400. Christianity was introduced here in the second half of the 16th century. Most of the inhabitants adopted the faith. In 1614, after an edict was issued banning Christianity, the persecutions began. However, the believers in Sakitsu did not abandon their faith. Oh, at the end of the path is a church. There it is. This is a stunning church. My goodness, the architecture is exquisite. This is one of the earliest churches that were built after the ban on Christianity was lifted in 1873. Kanazawa Hiroyoshi was born in Sakitsu and works as a guide to this region. This is a symbol of revival. After the end of the persecution, this church was built so that people could come here freely. I see. It's very cute. Oh, is it? Yes, I think it's wonderful. The top of the entrance and the top of the window are pointed. It's made to look like it's getting closer to the sky. The land on which Sakitsu Church stands was once used to search out the hidden Christians. The local people were forced to tread on icons portraying Jesus or the Virgin Mary. Those who refused to place their feet on those holy images faced severe punishment. This is so fascinating to learn about, and so this church was built after the ban on Christianity was lifted in 1873. Despite all of these tribulations and the suffering that the Christians experienced over centuries, this church stands as a symbol of hope today, and that is truly so inspiring. People in Sakitsu still keep alive customs said to date back to the time of the hidden Christians. This is a kind of rice straw decoration commonly used to celebrate the new year. It's a tradition based on Shinto beliefs. That's the important part. Since this is a festival for the gods, it shows that people in their homes are worshipping the gods. That way, the officials won't be suspicious, and the meaning is that people will be able to see as much as they want. I see, so the culture and tradition continues to this day. It's a shrine! This Shinto shrine, Sakitsu Suwa Jinja, is said to have been founded to pray for abundant catches and safety at sea. As parishioners of this shrine, the hidden Christians in Sakitsu took part publicly in Shinto rituals here, but it was only an outward gesture to conceal their true belief. At first, I didn't think it was a good thing, but now that it's become a part of our lives, I don't think it's a bad thing anymore. I don't think it's a bad thing anymore, but now that it's become a part of our lives, I see. So it seems that what first began as a forced tradition for the hidden Christians, after many, many years and many generations, eventually just became sort of a way of life for the locals here, which is so interesting. Here it is! Shizuka has arrived at a local sushi restaurant. Much of the fish served by owner chef Miyashita Takeshi has been freshly caught by him the same morning. Thank you very much! It is really wonderful. I've actually not quite had this type of flavor combo. The zest of the citrus is actually citrusy, but also a tiny bit bitter. And it really goes really well with the salt and the slightly sweetness of the squid. Really tasty. The next bite is amberjack that has been marinated in soy sauce and aged for two weeks. It's sweet and the fish is so tender. It kind of melts in your mouth. Really wonderful. Saba! Fantastic! It's so satisfying. Miyashita shows Shizuka a pair of shells that have been handed down through the generations in his family. This one looks like a woman with her head down on this side praying. This is the face and this is the white veil. It looks like the Virgin Mary. Wow, that's amazing. My four-generation-old grandfathers were actually in the Kakurekiri family. Wow! This area is a fishing village, so there are a lot of places where you can see people carrying their belongings to the sea. They would just casually put these on their heads and pray for the success of their faith. That's amazing. Miyashita also keeps other relics that his forefathers used when praying in secret. This is a mirror. The patterns on the back are all Japanese chrysanthemums. It is said that a cross is hidden in this mirror. Oh, this? That's right. Is this the small one? Yes, it is. It is said that this was used to look like a cross. This is a camouflage of a person praying to the cross in the back while looking at the mirror. Wow, that's amazing. I'm impressed. This is an old coin. It's a coin from the Edo period. Wow. It's a cross. Oh, that's right. For example, when someone came to pray, they would put it on their head like this. Like this. It means that nothing happened. Wow. Your great-great-great-grandparents have been protecting Christianity for hundreds of years. Why did they continue to do so, At that time, I don't think there were many people who were as wealthy as they are now. So, I don't mean to be stingy, but I believe in Christianity and pray hard. If you believe in something, something good will happen. That's why I believe in Christianity. Hirado Island lies in the northwest of Nagasaki Prefecture. This was one of the first places in Japan where official trade was allowed with the Western world. The traders introduced Christianity, along with aspects of European culture such as architecture and also food. These items can still be found in shops on the island. What a traditional-looking shop. Hello. Welcome. I heard that there are some sweets that have been passed down from our ancestors here. Yes, there are some left. Really? Which one is it? This one. It's a sweet called Kasudosu. This one? In 1550, a Portuguese ship entered Hirado Island. At that time, it was passed down from our ancestors. I see. To make Kasudosu, pieces of castella sponge cake are dipped in egg yolk and syrup, then fried, and finally coated with sugar. Kasudosu was long considered a luxurious sweet that only the aristocrats could afford and beyond the reach of the ordinary people. That's wonderful. The flavor is very delicate. Despite the crunchiness, it's not overly sweet. The interior is delicate and has a faint kind of eggy sweetness to it, if that makes sense. Really tasty. To the northwest of Hirado lies Ikitsuki Island. These days, it has a population of about 6,000. The Christians who lived here have become known for their distinctive style of worship. Just off the coast, we can see Nakae-no-Shima, which is a small, uninhabited island that was once the site of Christian martyrdom and has made it a sacred pilgrimage site for the hidden Christians. Nakae-no-Shima was venerated by the hidden Christians on Ikitsuki. They developed a form of worship fused with traditional Japanese customs that has been kept alive to the present day. Even after the ban was lifted, many of them chose not to rejoin the Catholic Church. Nakazono Shigio is a researcher who specializes in the hidden Christians of Ikitsuki. The displays in this museum show the ritual implements and sacred objects the people of Ikitsuki used in their worship. This is a Buddhist altar dedicated to the ancestors. It is a Buddhist altar. I see. Over there is a room called the Zashiki. When the hidden Christians held a group festival, they would sit in the Zashiki and pray. There is another room in the back. I see. This is a room called the Nando. It is a place where important things are kept. The Virgin Mary of Kakejiku is kept here. Only during the festival, she is displayed like this. This is the most important point of the Can I take a closer look? Yes, you can. Thank you. This is so incredible. You can feel the history in this room. I just noticed that this is the Virgin Mary. Yes. This is meant to be a portrait of Mary, but it actually really looks like a Japanese woman in the picture, which is really quite surprising. Maybe not surprising considering the age that this was painted. For over 250 years, the islanders had no contact with Europe, and the images of Christ and the saints became increasingly Japanese in appearance. For the people of Ikitsuki, removing their Buddhist altars would have meant they were abandoning their ancestors. That is why they decided not to rejoin the Catholic Church. These days, the number of people who worship in this fusion of Christian and Buddhist styles has declined sharply. Shizuka continues to another site on Hirado called Neshiko. Takiyama Tadashi works as a guide in Neshiko. Takiyama used to be the leader of the hidden Christians in Neshiko. However, he disbanded the group around 30 years ago because younger members of the community have been moving away. He now practices his faith independently while sharing the unique culture of the hidden Christians in this area. Oh, I see. In 1636, six people found to be hidden Christians were martyred in Neshiko. This memorial was established to worship them. People offer prayers here. They consider the martyrs to be Neshiko's guardian deities. The format of the prayers has remained unchanged since the days when Christianity was still banned. The hidden Christians would pray in a way that looked like a Japanese prayer style, putting their hands together like this, but secretly crossing their thumbs in the shape of a cross. Takiyama has invited Shizuka to visit his home. You can feel the traditional layout of the home is still probably very much as it was back in the day. I see. Do you still pray here? Yes, I do. Even when my grandchildren come here, they are happy to meet me. This is a shrine dedicated to Ise Jingu. Next to the shrine, there is a water bottle which is used to be in the kimono during the New Year. I pour the water and wash it. I see. Why is it in this corner? In the center of the room, there is a cross depicting the structure of the house. I see. The deities and Christianity are the same. It's wonderful everything as a part of your life. I think in everything and to be protected by God. There is a conflict because of religion. If we can understand each other, I think we can live in peace. That's true. It's a culture that is truly unique to the hidden Christians of Japan and how they creatively and adeptly adapted their cultural practices not only to survive but to honor the perseverance and sacrifices of their ancestors and continue to keep their faith alive. It is truly a story of inspiring resilience and a history that deserves to be remembered for generations to come. To reach Sakitsu from Tokyo, flights to Amakusa take about three hours. From there, it's a two-hour bus journey. To reach Hirado, it takes about four and a half hours by plane to Nagasaki and then by bus.