The wait is FINALLY over…

Welcome back to another video. We have a Lancaster unboxing from LancasterArcherySupply.com. They sent me a product that we have been trying to get for a very long time, and I feel like they have been out of stock of this, and it's been hard to get for a while. They definitely have caught up on it by now, and a lot of people have been shooting it. It's probably my second favorite rest. Arguably could be my favorite on some different bows, but we'll get into this. We're going to get it set up on a bow. It's almost like kind of a bow build with this, but we're going to kind of semi-speed through it. The Hamske Epsilon arrow rest, which is their newest drop-away limb-driven, mostly been limb-driven. I believe you could switch it to cable, but limb-driven rest. I ran these for a long time until QAD came out with their slick system, where it's super integrated. But that's why the Epsilon is cool, because they do have the integrated system to work with Matthew's bows, and PSE has it now, and Hoyt kind of have that little cutout in the back of their risers, clamps on. So let's open this bad boy up. Hamske, as you guys know, probably know, it's a company out of Colorado, I think. Been around for a long time, making really good, cool archery stuff. So here we go. This is the rest. It's a drop-away rest, where when you pull back, the rest comes up, and when you shoot, it drops really, really fast, and fletchings, and nothing hits the rest. Very forgiving, very accurate. So there's that rest. We'll go over the features as we kind of get it set up. This is their kind of go-around. Supposedly, there was some weird patent thing, blah, blah, blah, and they had to make, they had to make this to kind of retrofit it onto bows. Why they did this, I don't really know, but, I mean, it's cool, I guess. So we'll get this mounted on first, and then we'll kind of show how all of this works. We got all these goodies. We got a bolt, we have an Allen wrench that they cut off to make it easier. We have a flipper tail mole skin. We got another little rubber bump stop. So you can really make these rests really, really quiet, which is really awesome. You got a really good retainment system. All that fun jazz. Here we go. We got this universal mounting bracket, is actually what I think they call it, because you still have to put on right there. You're essentially making your own, like, Picatinny rail system thingy. So we're gonna mount this on. So that fits on there really nice and snug. Dense the riser, ream that bad boy down. And so now this, we have like this clamping system right here. They now clamp on this. So let's actually put the bow in the jig here. Okay, so it looks like there is this piston right there, and then there's a hole on the rail system. So you're gonna want to line that up, because it looks like that is how your up and down adjustment is made, because it runs on that screw dealio. Doing this for the first time, folks. Yeah, so that clips in super nice, because that piston is aligned in the center. Clamps down. We won't tighten that all the way yet until we get this one. So that's nice and tight. This is loose. Ah, that's why they sent this handy dandy little cutoff thing, because it's really tight fit in there. I think that's about it. That was pretty simple to get on there. Just three bolts, essentially, this one, and then the two clamp ones. And this is the cord to run our drop away for. They switched to this rubber piece instead of the spring right here. And I'm really not a fan of this, because it takes a while to wear in. It's this plastic, and you can pull on it, and it kind of like stretches. And the few that I've set up, and my buddies that have set theirs up, after like a hundred shots, you essentially got to retighten it down, because it just really stretches out. And they say, I guess I can do this, you really got to stretch these out before you install. So we're going to do this. Okay, so we're going to just pre-stretched it, hopefully. And then when we go to set it up, we'll just have to really ream on it. I might actually get this in there right now while it's on this. I really like to run it underneath this little plate here. This is a V3X. This is a V3. So it comes standard on all of them, except the Phase 4. I don't think you can do this on the Phase 4. I don't want to take apart my Phase 4. That's why I'm doing it on a V3. Yeah, you cannot do this on a Phase 4. So you're going to have to run it just around the whole limb, like normal, and use their little pad, and just wrap it around there. But on the V3, V3X, anything older than that, I really like to run this. So you don't need to pop them all the way off. You just need enough room to where you can slip the rope under and get something to grab it, just like that. So we're going to leave a decent amount, because we can do all of our length adjustment up top. So we're just going to tie this, kind of simply, like that. And then I'm going to tighten this back down with this. And it's important to note, you want this rubber piece at the bottom, close to the limb. Okay, so I mean, there's enough tension on there, because you tighten it down, that it's not going anywhere. That's where I kind of like it. It's not 100% relying on the knots that you tie. But we're still going to, once we get in the press, I'm going to tie them down. And just for initial setup, I'm going to show you, I'll do this real quick. They kind of went back to this original clamp. They used to have this little metal piece that was more tension related that I kind of like better. But they went back to this one. And we're going to just tighten this down. And essentially, as tight as you can get, especially with this rubber piece, it popped out. This is why I don't like these. So that's just kind of initial tightness. I'll probably actually want to put that bead up higher, because it's just going to oscillate more right there. That's initial setup. Now we're going to get the bow all level and square, kind of move the rest around a little bit to get it 100% in the middle of the bow. Okay, so I've been wanting to get the OMP bow vise for like a year now. And I feel like every time I go to buy it, it's out of stock. Because ideally, all these bow builds and everything, you do an OMP deal, which is like, clamps it down in the corner of the deal. But we make it work with this press. And I kind of like this press, because you can easily go like this. And I have it set up to where the press is level. And I'll obviously double check it every single time. And we loosely have the bow in the press, like I just can rock it back and forth. So we're not putting pressure on the limbs at all. They're just rocking back and forth in there. So what we're going to do is we're going to spin the bow like this, we're going to grab an arrow, you don't want to tighten this down until you make sure your tune is good, because the rest is down. So I'm going to do just my string clamp, string clamp, one on my arrow, and I'm actually going to grab the handsky tool. I like running this handsky tool better than the string clamp, but I'll still put it on for funsies. I like to run it just on the front of the riser here. Bow left right is level, make sure that level this way. And you see that I have it clamped in on these little serving ties I did for the string. You want to make sure that the level is straight. Sometimes when you clamp it on this, just the regular string, it's too loose. So if I didn't tie in a knock set yet, I would clamp it in right there. I don't really love using these. I was actually just at Matthews doing the Shields University thing, we were talking about that, how just using the string is kind of a little bit more inconsistent for getting it all level and everything and using the riser or another solid part of the bow. It's a little bit better just because this can get too, but for being quick and dirty like we're being right now, it's fine. So we have our string level, so our bow is level. We have our bow this way level, which really doesn't matter, but there we are. And now our arrow is level. So stock out of the package, this epsilon must be set to zero, similar to the QAD. So honestly, we don't need to do anything. For initial setup, it's running right through the burger hole. Our center shot is good. I obviously set up this bow before, so our tie-ins were already set up pretty good, I'm sure, for center shot. I might have to do a little bit of tweaking on the paper tin, but yeah, this is 100% good. If we needed to adjust it, it's super easy to adjust. Left and right has this adjustment right up top here. So you loosen that, and then they have this little knob on the side to micro adjust. Click it. So they click, click, click, click, click, which is really, really nice. And then also on top, it does that. You loosen it, and then that little pilot piston moves the rest up and down that I was showing earlier in assembly. So really awesome adjustment. It's very, very good, and it's very solid. Clamps down super nice. We have the rest set to zero, left and right, and I'm assuming, yeah, I'm assuming that's set to 13 sixteenths, which is the standard center shot for Matthew's bows. You really want to ream on this cord, and I want it to move this up as far as we can. What I'll also do is tie it. So I like to leave a lot of slack. I might end up cutting this a little bit, but I like a lot of slack, just in case you're ever in the woods and something happens. You need some extra, extra delute material or rope, because this is essentially just delute material. And then about right there, I'll just end up cutting it and burning it. Okay, so why the ham ski rest is super nice, and this kind of goes for any sort of containment style drop-away rest, is your arrow's not going anywhere. It has just one little entrance right there, but walking around, you can hear the rattling, and that can be solved by some moleskin. I know a lot of guys run moleskin on this riser, but walking around, it's super contained, like if you're in the woods, like a spot-and-stalk or whatever. One thing to note that I notice on these arrows is I fletched them a little too close to the rest, so you can see it kind of bumps up there at the end. So if I were to set these arrows up for this bow, I would want to bump these fletchings just back a little bit, so it actually sits on their little containment thing there a little bit better. Here we go. I don't have a peep sight in this because it's not set up, but that won't matter for just getting the tune out of it. Look at that. So this hole was a four-fletch. We were doing that the other day, but this is our three-fletch, and that looks pretty dang good. We're gonna take a step back and do it at about six yards here to get a maximum error that our arrow is doing. That looks pretty dang good. That bigger tear is from the fletching, that's not from the arrow. Yeah, that's pretty money. You can't really get better than that. Man, that was easy. Hamski Epsilon, just ripping in there, preset pretty much for a Matthews bow, ready to go. Didn't even have to adjust it. That's pretty good. I really like the system to get it, you know, similar to how the QED is, to be more in line. That's the biggest thing, because you don't have a bunch of junk hanging over here on the right. It keeps it all more in line and better balanced, and it works with the quiver systems and the accessories and everything now. Another thing I wanted to note, you can see as I draw back, I don't know if you can get a good shot of that, Riley, the rest as I draw back. Okay, that blade is so wide that your arrow could be all the way to the right like that. When you draw back, it plops in, so I like that. There's really no way your arrow would not get popped all the way up, so that's good. That's about it. I just personally choose to run the QED, just because I think it's a little bit, it's a tighter form fitting. It's way lighter than this, but the Epsilon is very solid, very good rest. Can't go wrong with it. The limb style driven, which a lot of people like. I got nothing bad to say about this rest. I really like this rest, so make sure to check it out. Lancaster Archery Supply, Epsilon from Hamski, Nu from Hamski. That's it. I'll catch you guys on the next one. Bye.