I Tried Japan’s Most Luxurious Sleeper Train

Today, I'm going first class on Japan's most luxurious sleeper train. With tickets so exclusive, you have to enter a lottery just to purchase. I'm staying in one of the best suites on board, featuring a fireplace and even a bath. We'll also take a look at the two-level suite with its own tea room. I'll give you a never-before-seen insight into what it's like to live on board, from the fine dining in the restaurant, incredible lounge, and breathtaking observation cars. With that, let's pick up our story in Tokyo, Japan. Well, hello there, and welcome back to the channel. You join me here at Tokyo Station, where we begin our next railway adventure. And look who I've got joining me. Good morning. How are we doing, Dad? You all right? I'm good, thank you. Do you wanna go and get on the third and final Japanese train we've had on our list? Yeah, I've been looking forward to this one. JR East, the operator of Shikishima, includes a pre-departure stay at the iconic Tokyo Station Hotel, an experience that was, frankly, exceptional. Our journey begins across town, and we're escorted over to a fleet of waiting limousines ready to transfer us. And these are no ordinary cars. We're traveling in the Toyota Century, a vehicle often described as the Japanese Rolls-Royce. It feels like a fitting prelude to what promises to be one of the most exclusive rail journeys in the world. Upon arrival, we're met by the Shikishima team and led straight into Ueno Station. We won't need to so much as show a ticket here. Instead, we're swiftly guided through the barriers and into Shikishima's private lounge. Here, we'll wait for the arrival of our train. This is, without question, one of the finest station lounges I've ever experienced. So, let's settle into our seats and attend to the truly important matter of a pre-departure pastry and, of course, a glass of champagne. We're then formally welcomed by Shikishima's chief conductor, who introduces the train along with the staff who'll be looking after us for the next 36 hours. Within minutes, we're notified of the imminent arrival of our train. It's worth noting that Shikishima was designed by Ken Okuyama, who was also involved in the Ferrari Enzo. To board, there's actually a dedicated platform 13 1⁄2, providing a private and exclusive boarding area just for us. With great ceremony, our room key is presented and we're ushered on board. This is truly another level. The sound of a piano fills the air as we're guided further into this masterpiece of engineering. The train itself is made up of 10 lavishly appointed cars with space for just 34 passengers. We're booked into car seven, home to only two suites, with ours being the one-of-a-kind deluxe suite. Well, welcome to our new home. Dad, what do you think? It's beautiful, isn't it? It really is. I mean, I don't even know where to start. The fact that there's a fireplace in here is, well... It's just... Yeah, that's new. It is new. It's at this point we begin to glide smoothly out of the station, waved off by Shikishima staff and onlookers lining the platform. So what's the plan? We'll be on board for the next two days, traveling across central Japan on a carefully choreographed route. Our first sector takes us some 200 miles, northbound to Nitsu, where, pre-dinner, we'll step off the train for a very unique experience. Right, our room. As mentioned, our deluxe suite takes up roughly half a carriage and measures around 150 square foot in size. Along one side of the suite sits ample wardrobe space where our bags have already been stowed, alongside hanging space for shirts and jackets. And much like a hotel, you'll also find the familiar safe and minibar. Aside from the aforementioned fireplace, we get to the lounge. Featuring an iPhone for room service requests and most unexpectedly, a CD player. Now for the bathroom, sizable by any train standard and genuinely impressive. It comes complete with Bamford amenities, a Toto toilet, and both a shower and the signature cypress wood bath, taking pride of place. As for now, it feels the perfect time for a caffeine hit, in the form of a freshly pulled espresso, served by our brilliant room attendant. We've just been notified that lunch is being served over in the dining car and we're more than keen to explore another part of the train. It's located just adjacent to our carriage and also houses a fully equipped kitchen. I love that as you walk through, you're able to peek inside and speak with the chefs who rotate throughout the journey. The dining room itself is stunning, with every seat offering sweeping views of the passing scenery. And to maintain an intimate exclusive atmosphere, the train's 34 passengers are split into two dining sittings. Today's lunch menu is Chinese inspired, created by a Tokyo based chef who trained in Beijing. To start, we're offered some champagne. Oh, it's worth noting that all food and beverage is included on board. Okay, the food. Dad's chosen the jellyfish, which thankfully no longer stings. I've gone for the candy apple with a smooth goose pate center inside. Next up, it's chicken, radish and sea urchin. I'm particularly intrigued by the latter, which is surprisingly mellow, rich and buttery. As the scenery continues to get all the more spectacular, we're served our next course of crab and rice wrapped in a lotus leaf. Rather unexpectedly, we enter a tunnel passing into the Inchigo Mountains. Meanwhile, dessert is served. Almond jelly with candied walnuts. It's a classic Chinese dessert and a rather elegant way to finish our meal. At this point, our chef stops by to thank us for enjoying his menu as we emerge into a snowy world. With lunch over, it feels like it's the perfect time to explore more of this train. I'm particularly drawn to one of the two observation cars at the rear of Shikishima. But first, whether I'm on a luxury sleeper train or back home here in Dorset, managing my business on the move has been seamless thanks to Odoo, an all-in-one management software providing entrepreneurs with a range of applications to simplify the day-to-day management of your business, including accounting, website creation, and invoicing. Odoo's invoicing app lets you manage and track your invoices electronically. It's easy to set up and allows you to create your invoices in seconds. First, identify your customer. Add the products or services to be invoiced, indicate the quantities, specify the billing terms, and then send by email. Easily keep track of due dates and outstanding payment status. Odoo allows you to create your invoices for free with its first app offer, which is free for life and includes unlimited hosting and support. Go check out Odoo today using my link down in the description and manage your invoice process hassle-free. So, the observation car, named Kizashi, and this is a space where the designer's supercar heritage really comes through. You pass through a deep red corridor before emerging onto a pearly white platform and panoramic terrace, which feels distinctly futuristic. Sitting here with dad, looking out over the landscape, it really brings home how fortunate we've been to experience all three of Japan's lottery-based luxury trains. Previous journeys have taken us on board the Twilight Express, with its equally epic observation car, and Kushu's seven stars. I'll explain in just a moment how I managed to secure tickets for this, especially given how notoriously difficult that lottery can be. But for now, we've reached our first stop, Nitsu. Here, we step off for a short excursion before returning on board to explore more of the train. We're guided towards the station exit where the Shikishima coach is waiting for us. So, where exactly are we heading? A 30-minute drive brings us to the city of Niigata on Japan's northern coast. Our coach drops us just off a quiet side street. It's here that we're invited to experience a local geisha tradition, although in this part of Japan, they're known instead as geigi. With my Tims booted off, let's head upstairs. Filming here is kept deliberately discreet, so you'll see a mix of my permitted photographs and official videographer footage. And yes, dad does get involved with a game of traditional rock, paper, scissors. We're back at Nitsu Station, and it's time to get back on board our extraordinary train. First, we collect our room key before stepping into the warmth and hospitality of Shikishima. Well, dad, welcome back to the room. That was quite an experience, wasn't it? It was. I was very impressed of your rock, paper, scissors that you had going on there. Yeah, well, you know, I'm a natural. Oh! The plan now is, I don't know about you, but I'm quite hungry. I'm starving. Absolutely, well, dinner is just around the corner, but we do need to get ourselves changed. As we depart Nitsu, where are we heading next? Overnight, we'll travel southwest across the country to Enzan Station, a region known for its vineyards and not far from the famous Mount Fuji. Right, so dinner does involve a dress code, with a shirt and jacket being mandatory. But worry not, I've come prepared. The dining car is looking spectacular this evening, taking on an entirely different atmosphere after dark. We're seated promptly and offered a warm towel, along with our menus. This evening's dinner is French-inspired and prepared by executive chef, A.J. Akuichi. Naturally, champagne feels the perfect pairing for such an occasion. To begin, we're served spring rolls with Pacific sorry and fennel. Next, the pastry chef has curated a lotus root and bacon tart. Now, for main course, which is paired with a Japanese merlot. Dad opts for the simmered abalone. Meanwhile, I of course go for the grilled Hitachi beef. Rich, beautifully tender, I just wish there was more. To close proceedings, we're served a dessert wine from New Zealand, alongside a pear cake with salted caramel ice cream. What a phenomenal meal, truly exquisite. After thanking the wonderful kitchen team, it's time to head back to our suite. Bedtime beckons. Well, Dad, what a day. I know, I'm finished. Yeah, are you reading tomorrow's itinerary? Yeah. Waiting for a treat? Yeah, you need a good night's sleep, I can tell you. Yeah, we really do. Well, with that, shall we go to bed? I think so. I think so, it's a comfy bed, isn't it? Yeah, it is. We'll see you in the morning. Good morning. I slept really well, aside from a rather firm pillow. First up today, I'm keen to try out the shower. And just like that, we glide into Enzan. Breakfast will be taken off the train this morning, but worry not, we'll be back on board shortly to explore more, including the two-story suite. We're greeted warmly on the platform by more JR East staff, along with a handful of enthusiastic locals. We're met by another coach to take us to breakfast, though in truth, it's barely a two-minute drive and easily walkable. The restaurant itself is French, set within the former home of the town's mayor, built around the idea of marrying French cuisine with Japanese aesthetics. We're seated right at the front, with a stunning view out of the beautifully kept gardens. The menu looks reassuringly hearty for breakfast, but that's part of the experience. First up, we're served roast pork with plum juice and a poached egg. The pork is wonderfully tender and delicious. Now for the main course. We're served pan-fried local trout with abalone liver. Now comes the all-important coffee. It's paired with dessert. Yes, a breakfast dessert. What an experience. We both absolutely loved it, though it's quite unlike any breakfast we've ever had before. Back on the coach, we have a few more minutes to drive over to our brief morning excursion. We've been invited to take a look around a local winery, starting with a short walk through the vineyard. This is followed by a tour of the production facility. Oh, and naturally culminating in a tasting session. Well, it's five o'clock somewhere. Soon enough, it's time to rejoin Shikishima, back at Enzen Station. It's still very much a pinch-me moment, holding a ticket for this train. And yes, we still have more areas to explore. Yay! As we gently trundle out of the station, it feels like the perfect moment to properly explore the lounge car. You may have spotted this beautiful carriage in the background. It's one of the most distinctive spaces on board. It's designed as the social heart of the train, part lounge, part bar. And yes, this is also home to the train's only other fireplace. You'll recognize the piano from when we boarded, alongside an extensive selection of Japanese whiskey. There's also barista-made coffee, which I've just ordered. While we wait, we help ourselves to the sweet and savory snacks available between mealtimes, though the crew insist we take a seat as they bring over our snacks and coffee. Next up, I'm keen to explore the two-story suite located in car seven, right next door to our own. In terms of layout, downstairs you'll find a dedicated twin bedroom, while upstairs there's a serene tea room lined with tatami mats. There's also a bathroom here, identical to the one in our suite, which brings me neatly back to our room's party piece. Is there's a bath, and we haven't had one yet, so let's go and see what it's like. And this is no ordinary bath, crafted from 300-year-old cypress wood and ingeniously engineered so the water doesn't spill as the train moves. Feeling particularly relaxed, it's time to head to lunch in the dining car. We're firmly back in Japanese cuisine now, and about to be treated to a truly authentic feast. We're offered a choice of sparkling sake and rose champagne to kick proceedings off. First course is steamed egg custard, which is beneath this parchment. It's softly set and wonderfully smooth, with a subtle savory depth that's comforting rather than heavy. The kitchen is a hive of activity as the chefs prepare our bento boxes, and there's a lot to take in here. I've popped a closer look at the contents on screen because it's quite the spread. Now for dessert, and we're served wagashi, handcrafted from sweet white bean paste. What a culinary adventure. Now to head to the one car we've not explored, the very front of the train. You're walking through what I can only assume is part of the engine, but it allows the most spectacular reveal as you round the corner and up into the futuristic glass lounge. You'll see this is near identical to the rear observation car, with the difference that the driver is actually operating the train. This is mesmerizing to witness as we edge closer to Tokyo. Should we discuss how I booked this? As mentioned, Chikushima is typically bookable only via a lottery, such is the demand. For context, I've entered that lottery many times over the years without success. However, I did eventually discover an agency called Japan Private Tour, who were able to offer tickets without the need to enter the lottery. After a flurry of emails back and forth, I managed to secure the only deluxe suite on board for a total cost of 1.8 million yen, or roughly $11,500. Expensive undoubtedly, but as a bucket list experience, absolutely worth it. I do want to give special mention to the incredible staff on board and made this a once in a lifetime experience. Welcome back to Tokyo. What an amazing adventure. Dad, have you enjoyed it? I have, we packed a lot in. We have indeed. It's been a real experience on board the incredible Chikushima. But anyway, thank you so much for watching and we'll catch you all again next time.