FIRST CLASS on Asia’s MOST LUXURIOUS Sleeper Train

Welcome on board the most luxurious train in Asia. Over the next four days and three nights, we'll journey from Singapore through Malaysia, eating, drinking, and sleeping on the train. And we'll do it all in the most luxurious room on board, the Presidential Suite. Hello, jet-setters. I'm Jeb Brooks from GreenerGrass.com, and this is the Eastern and Oriental Express. And you're coming along. Here's the plan. Our journey begins in one of the world's greatest cities, Singapore. We'll leave about 3 o'clock in the afternoon and head north. We'll wake up the next day deep in the Malaysian rainforest and get off for a bit of exploration. We'll then climb back on board to head south again and then turn north, but this time along the coast to reach Butterworth for a visit to Penang on our third day. We'll get off the train here, too. Our fourth and final day will take us back to Singapore, and so that means we'll spend 67 hours on what just may be Asia's most luxurious train. A transfer from our hotel was included, and this Mercedes was a sure-fire sign that this was going to be a first-class experience. Classy from moment one, am I right? Very nice start. Hydration, it's important this weather. And a 30-minute ride brought us to Woodlands train station. It was a chaotic but relatively smooth check-in procedure that we put behind us as quickly as we could before making our way through immigration and onto this magnificent train. These carriages were originally built in Japan in 1971 for New Zealand's Silver Star sleeper train, which operated between Auckland and Wellington. But in the 1990s, they were shipped here to Singapore, and we're excited to see what they look like inside today. And as we walked into the presidential suite, you could say we were impressed. This is amazing. I think it's the biggest room we've ever had, but also beautifully appointed. This is going to be a good trip. We are about to get out of here. It is 3 o'clock. We're going to have plenty of time to explore this massive room. Let's make our way to Malaysia. A knock at the door meant delivery of local tea. Now, in our room, we had snacks, drinks, fruit, a box with tons of information, and so much more. But we wanted to investigate the hottest real estate on board. This space at the very back of the train is going to be so hard for us to resist. On the way out of Singapore, and on the overnight sections, the engine is at the back of the train, blocking the view here. But for most of the daylight hours, the space will offer unparalleled views out the back. You'll also find a spectacular bar back here, with comfortable seats and readily available drinks of just about any kind you can imagine. And everything you eat and drink on the train is included in the fare, no matter what room type you're booked into. There are 52 passengers and 30 crew on this train. We do our best not to film other people. That's why you're not seeing many people around. But back in our room, we had a surprise waiting for us. We just met the bar manager who brought us champagne and caviar. This is quite a way to kick it off, isn't it? Cheers to an amazing journey in Malaysia. That's some good stuff. Mother of pearl spoon. How classy. What are you doing down there? I'm not very good at eating caviar, so I'm cleaning up. As we've said many times, we're not fancy. We're booked into the largest room type on the train. It's called the Presidential Suite level. We'll talk more about the different room types as we go through the journey here. But it includes, among other things, these fresh flowers and fresh fruit, as well as caviar and champagne to kick off the trip. But really, what this trip to me is about is what we're going to encounter as we travel our way through Malaysia. The afternoon eased by like most train trips, but this one with a healthy dose of luxury to go along with it. We sipped champagne, reviewed the menus, and just watched the world go by. This train was originally launched in September 1993 and was the first train to transport passengers between Singapore and Bangkok. Unfortunately, though, because of COVID, it stopped operating until early 2024. The train's operators continue to work with the Thai authorities to hopefully one day return to Thailand. The eagle-eyed among you will notice our luggage in the room. While it was possible to check bags, or even just leave them in Singapore since that's where we'll end the trip, we chose to keep them with us in the room. There was room here, but some of the smaller accommodations? I think that would have been a challenge. A quarter of five rolled around, and a knock came at the door. Our room attendant had prepared our afternoon tea. This very British tradition is celebrated daily when room attendants deliver sweet and savory snacks to every room on the train. Jeb has some pretty strong feelings about afternoon tea. I'm not a fan. I am thoroughly American in my feelings about afternoon tea. It's just not something I'm into, so I'm going to probably eat a cheese sandwich and call it a day. On the other hand, I'm pretty into it. I really enjoy tea, and who doesn't like mini-sweets in the afternoon? Starting with a tropical fruit panache. I'm not familiar with a lot of these fruits, but they're delicious and refreshing. This looks like an orange rind covered in osmanthus. Savory bite next, the cheese sandwich. How cute is this? Where do all the crusts go? Next one is a financier cake with a cream of kaya on top. There's a much longer name. I didn't read you the whole thing. A margie chocolate tart with green pepper and strawberry. Spicy chocolate in my mouth. About 63% of the population here is Muslim, with another 19% practicing Buddhism. Religious traditions are just one facet of Malaysia's fascinating multicultural society. I find food to be an incredible part of the experience too. That'll come as no surprise to you. And the way it's going to be presented on this train, it's not only going to be delicious, but also representative of the many groups who call Malaysia home. But it's not quite dinner time yet, so let's explore the train. There are 13 cars on the consist, and that includes 8 sleeper cars for passengers, one of which is like ours, with two presidential suites in it. The other sleepers are either Pullman carriages that turn into bunk beds, like this. Or they're state carriages, with rooms that convert into twin beds at night. There's also a staff carriage, two restaurant carriages, a piano carriage, and of course, our favorite, the observation carriage. The perfect place to take in the sunset. There's just something different, something almost magical about sunsets and sunrises in Southeast Asia. It's almost dinner time, so the dress code switches at night. And it's smart casual. No sneakers, no jeans. Again, so much of the Eastern and Oriental Express experience is about dining, and our trip was no exception. Now there are two dining cars on the consist, and for this first dinner, we were headed to the second one, called Malaya. This is true fine dining, in every sense of the word. Even the menus are works of art in and of themselves. Now the food is first class beyond question. Even more impressive when you remember these chefs are working out of tiny kitchens that move. But the best part, at least in my opinion, is that they're using locally sourced ingredients to prepare modern interpretations of traditional foods. First up was a bonito tataki, which was followed by a seafood ceviche. For our mains, we both chose the gnocchi. And dessert was a ganache with the chef's secret jungle spices. It was both different and delicious. Well the room's been completely transformed, which is great because it's time for bed. We've got an early morning tomorrow. I think we've got to get off the train at 8 o'clock for an excursion, so we're going to hit the hay. See you in the morning. I gotta say, I don't mind having two separate beds on a train. Overnight, we made our way north toward the small town of Maripo. Good morning, jet-setters. It's about 6 in the morning. That was about 7 1⁄2 hours of fairly fitful sleep, if I'm honest. It wasn't the smoothest track I've ever experienced. But sure grateful for those comfortable beds. They're super nice. I've come up to the bar car, where I'm the only person here. I guess everybody else is asleep. The staff are starting to set up for breakfast, which we'll have in our rooms, believe it or not, which sounds pretty luxurious, before hopping off the train at 8 o'clock for an excursion. So a super comfortable way to start the day here. Day 2 of the Eastern and Oriental Express. From there, I made my way back to the observation deck. Unfortunately, the engine blocked some of the view, but the sunrise was still awe-inspiring. The landscape had changed significantly overnight as we approached Tamanagara National Park. The Eastern and Oriental Express currently operates two different routes, but we chose this one because we wanted to visit this national park. I truly cannot wait to explore the rainforest. But back to the room for me. You see, breakfast was served. Now this was quite a spread, and it was really nice to have it in the room. The Malaysian yogurt and dried fruits were nice, and the traditional Malay soup was great too, but it was the coffee I was most grateful for. What a breakfast, huh? Chicken noodle soup. Wish we did it like that back home. But there was a lot happening outside, so we headed that way. And after that unforgettable traditional welcome, we left the station and made our way out deep into the jungle. After leaving the comfort of the train behind, we found ourselves in Malaysia's Taman Nagara National Park. At an estimated 130 million years old, this forest is one of the world's oldest deciduous rainforests. Guests of the Eastern Oriental Express can choose from a variety of off-train activities at stops like this. We chose a photo tour of the jungle, not because we wanted to take pictures necessarily, but because it involved a couple of short hikes. But it wasn't the beauty of this forest that struck us. It's beautiful, but so loud. That noise, probably the most impactful memory of this part of our trip, is from millions of insects and even frogs. It caused a lingering ringing in our ears, but it was so worth it to experience such a unique and special place. Well, that was an amazing excursion. It was so great to get out there and explore the jungle, but it's also super hot out there, so it's time for a shower. I'm going to take care of that right now. Much better. I think they're about to serve lunch here in just a little bit. We'll head up there for that. Lunch today was in the other dining car, Atasorn. It's worth saying, too, that we had our own large table reserved for us at each meal because of our room category. And we'll take a full tour around that room, just after lunch. I'm telling you, this food would be incredible in a five-star restaurant with a massive kitchen. It was made even more delicious knowing it was created on this moving train. We began with the kimchi niçoise and seared tuna. Meals on board are meant to be lingering affairs. There's no need to rush when the food is this good, and when you really think about it, we don't have anywhere else to be but here. It is worth saying we ended up skipping tea after that first day because there just was so much food at each meal. For the main course, I chose the wagyu beef sukiyaki. Suzanne opted for the seafood laksa fried rice. The prawns were admittedly intimidating, but tasty. Dessert meant creme caramel, and naturally, petit fours. Let's work off that incredible lunch with a room tour. Hey, come on in. Welcome to the largest room we've ever had on a train anywhere. This thing is massive. 125 square feet of pure luxury, if you ask me. This room is amazing. The sofa folds down into two beds at night, and through the magic of YouTube, I'm going to show you that right now. These are incredible beds. So comfortable. What a wonderful way to spend a night on the rails. The bedding is truly top class and luxury. Now, down here, during the day, there's some storage, along with some up here as well. That's for water. Now, the water that comes out of the taps, it's not potable. You can't drink it. So there's always drinking water available here. My favorite feature, probably, of any train I've ever traveled on is this table here. It allows Suzanne and me to look out the window as we're traveling through Malaysia, sipping a drink or eating a snack, and enjoying the view that goes by. Now, look at this, though. Over here, you have an amazing bar that's fully stocked. There's gin, there's vodka, there's whiskey, and there's rum. Available 24 hours a day, seven days a week, if you need it. Now, down here in this refrigerator are not only some mixers, but also beer. Of course, a pretty substantial closet here, and the bathroom, which, let me show you that right now. This bathroom is pretty impressive. Not only does it have everything you could possibly want in a bathroom, but it's so well-appointed and luxurious. It's also pretty roomy. I mean, again, this presidential suite is really substantial. You'll find all the amenities you could possibly want, from moisturizer and soap to really, really plush towels, and this massive shower. Let's take a look at that. Plenty of room in this shower. I'm 5 feet 11 inches tall, and I've got, well, another foot and a half, two feet of room up here. There's also some really nice amenities to use on the train here as well, which is great, because I never travel with shampoo. Not sure about you. But let me give you a better idea about how big this room really is. I'm going to pace it out. One, two, three, four, five paces. But there's a lot more to this train than our massive room, and the pull of the observation deck was strong. We stepped inside long enough to order a drink in the observation bar, a French 75 for Suzanne, and a gin and tonic for me. So here we are, our first full day on board. We are nearing dinner time. I will say, the best thing about this train is the observation car. We cannot tear ourselves away from that place. I love spending time outside. I wish every train had an observation car or some place to get outside. I think if we think back to the train experiences we've had, I think you'll agree, the best ones are the ones that have that outdoor space. It's just so amazing to feel that wind in your face, to be able to sense that fresh air in these environments. It's great. Nothing like sipping a sundowner while enjoying those views. And the afternoon flew by. It's time to head for dinner. There was always fresh bread available, and the wine selections were quite nice too. But it was the food, in particular the presentations that impressed me the most. Dinner often meant two introductory courses, in this case, an egg mousse, followed by this chicken soup. For our mains tonight, we both chose the beef cheek. As you'd expect, it was quite good. And for dessert, that was a tropical panache that was perhaps a bit too sour for my liking. Day two. Eh, that's a wrap. Yep. As you know, we're not really, like, fancy people. I will say, dinners on this train are kind of lingering affairs. Four courses, two hours. It's fancy. It's a lot. And I'll also have to say, we're not late night people. So, once dinner's over around 10 o'clock, we are hitting the hay. Because we have another early morning tomorrow. Yeah, another excursion. So, see you in the morning. Overnight, we turn northward again and we're coming near Butterworth, the colonial town just across from Penang, our destination for the day. Good morning. It's about 6.30 in the morning. That means 8 solid hours of great sleep. Honestly, that was probably the best sleep I've ever had on a train. These tracks are just, you know, so smooth. The bed is so comfortable and the room is so dark. What a great night of sleep. But, it's time to start another day. So, we've got a couple more hours until we get into Butterworth Station for another excursion. I think I'm going to head back to the observation car where there should be some coffee brewing. So, let's get the day started. Unfortunately, I'd beaten the barista back here, but it didn't matter too much. The sun was coming up in spectacular fashion. I didn't wait too long. We pulled into Butterworth Station, so I headed back to the room where breakfast was waiting. Malaysian coffee is strong. You need a lot of milk. This minced pork and peanut congee, a traditional Chinese congee, might have been my favorite breakfast item from the trip. I'm a fan. It's pretty good. Which excursion did you pick for us today, Suzanne? We are going to a cooking class. Wow. Cooking. Jeff doesn't do a lot of cooking at home. When in Malaysia. When in Malaysia. To reach Penang Island over there, we'll take a ferry like this one. The trip only takes about 10 minutes. Once across, we reached Georgetown. That's the capital of the state of Penang. We made a brief visit to the market to see some of the ingredients we'd be using. And then, we climbed this steep and winding road up to this colonial house turned hotel, to learn a couple of local dishes. 845 meters up. Quite a view. We made Malaysian Nasi Ulam and Indian Puri Puri. This is never going to translate to home, is it? No. This is one and done. Best thing I've ever eaten in my life. We get asked a lot on these train journeys, especially Amtrak, can you get off and kind of explore? And the answer is really, no. Experience like this is amazing because you really don't have to worry about anything. Transportation's arranged. Activities are arranged. It's really great. This was a lot of fun. We made our way back down the mountain and back onto the train. Despite having just cooked off the train, when we arrived, our lunch reservation was waiting. Cod versus meatballs? Meatballs all day. As we made our way out of Butterworth, heading south again, we toasted with champagne. We started with a plate of beautiful, fresh vegetables. Suzanne's codfish was wonderfully presented, as always, and so fresh, flaky. But this meatball was the culinary highlight of this entire journey. And for dessert, a special treat, because we were traveling over my birthday in March. Neither Suzanne nor I are foodies by any stretch, and so simple food is fine with us. And the fancy food we've been eating on the train has been glorious. Don't get us wrong. Really? Very delicious. But I think some of it's lost on us. That said, today's lunch was the best we've experienced yet. I had the codfish with a curry cauliflower. It was delicious. It was my favorite meal on board so far. Definitely. And if you've been watching this channel for any period of time, you know how much I love a good meatball. Especially on a train, right? That's true. This was, you know, an unbelievable meatball. There was a hard-boiled egg inside. It was wagyu beef with truffle. It was spectacular. Yeah, today's lunch takes the cake. How does it compare to Amtrak meatballs, would you say? A totally different league, let's be fair. After lunch, we decided to check out the views from the piano bar, which, unlike the observation bar, is located in the middle of the consist. Suddenly, a tarot card reader appeared, and we had our fortunes foretold. Turns out, we were destined to return to the observation car. Let's talk about the proverbial elephant in the room—the price. Now, there's no reason to sugarcoat it. This is an expensive trip. Our most expensive yet, as a matter of fact. We paid $8,600 per person to travel in the Presidential Suite. You can cut the price by more than half by booking the entry-level Pullman cabin at $3,750 per person. But that's still a lot. That said, if you compare it to Bellman's Orient Express train in Europe, that one starts at over $4,000 for just one single night in the cheapest cabin. Three nights on board this incredible train in that luxurious cabin? That seems at least somewhat more reasonable. We made our way forward for one more dinner. And this one was just as spectacular as the rest. The olives and stuffed pepper were a great way to start. That was followed by a delicate consomme with an impressive presentation, as always. Suzanne had the red snapper, and I tried the Penang duck curry, which was great. After dessert, we made our way back to the piano bar for some evening entertainment. Just back from our last dinner on board, and it seems like a great time to talk about the service. It has been spectacular. Truly amazing. Everybody's been very professional and kind and warm. This has been a comfortable service, but also really first class. Five stars to these guys. Overnight, we continued our path southward, getting closer to Singapore. It's about 6.30 this morning. A little less sleep than the night before because we were up so late, but still a good night of sleep. Just enough time for breakfast and then some border formalities. The trip is coming to a close. This final sunrise. This last cup of coffee. These last glimpses of Malaysia, even this last breakfast on board, felt really special. I was sorry to be saying goodbye to the Eastern and Oriental Express. Gonna miss breakfast in bed every morning. This is pretty nice. Each morning at breakfast, there's a featured hot item. Today, it's roti bread and vegetable curry. Day one, it was Malaysian noodles. It's been nice to highlight breakfast along the way from some of the cultures that we've experienced on this train journey. Being our first time in Malaysia, it's been so interesting to learn about the different cultures here and try the food. That's been definitely a highlight of this trip. That it was. Would we recommend this trip to you? If you like comfortable, five-star service, over-the-top food, and interesting excursions in off-the-beaten-path places, then this may just be for you. Between now and the next time, see you on the rails. This was once the British colonial capital of Johor. This was once the British administrative capital of this part of Johor. Well, we are getting ready for dinner on our first full day on the Eastern and Oriental Express. Is that the name of the train? Eastern and Oriental Express. It's got exactly what you'd expect in a bathroom on a train. Well, that's not true, because what you'd expect in a bathroom train is... not much. Hey Jeff, so what's in that cup? Yeah, so the secrets of YouTube, it's that's what we do. Our first night at dinner where there was that tilt in our wine and water glasses, well we were on the same tracks last night, headed back to Singapore, and I lovingly call this the Leaning Train of Malaysia.