1930's Art Deco Chair Restoration - Part 3

It's hard to imagine what's inside of this bag. I'll start by removing a row of springs on this Marshall unit and take it down to an 18-inch square. I'll hog ring a layer of deck padding 19 inches square over the Marshall unit. I need to make a burlap case for this Marshall unit. I need to add a couple inches to each side. Looks like 23 inches. Rather than mark this out, I'm just going to cut in a straight line following the weave. I'll take inch-and-a-half squares out of all of the corners. I've got the machine stepped down to a small stitch size. I'll match up the selvedge edges and leave those open. Stitch the panels together. Alright, I'll take this back to the machine and sew the end shut. To box in the side of the cushion, I need two strips 36 inches long. With seam allowances, it'll be 22-and-a-half from the front to the back and then 13-and-a-half to extend around. I'll lay in some reference marks for corner pleats. I'll cut my cording strips on the bias. Adding one inch to the width for seam allowances and working off-center of the fabric bolt, I need to lay out these corner pleats. I'll add around 5-8 for the fold. I'll line up these pleat reference marks, come back to my 22-and-a-half inch reference, and I'll square the fabric off from there. I need to extend these outer corners about an inch. I'll improvise and pull this down, match up the other side. For those of you that have never worked with mohair, you'll find that it's one of the most difficult fabrics to sew. Here we go. I'll increase my stitch size to sew the cording. I'll pinch up these corner pleats, point them downward towards the center reference, and sew them in place. I've marked center on this first section of cording, and I'll line the center of it with the center of this panel and use this for my starting point. I need to keep these pleats squared up and straight. I'll make a few relief cuts here in this corner. I'm going to tug this in just a little bit towards the inner edge. With my center references lined up, it's not a bad idea to go ahead and cut these relief cuts. I'll walk this around a short distance. Sewing with mohair, it tends to crawl, and there's a huge risk in working all the way around the panel. I'll come back here a few inches and start from there. Again, this is very difficult to work with. Once I've sewn around the corner, I'll straighten this out and line up my corner references. I'll match up my reference mark and work around the corner. After wrestling around the corner, I'll sew this across and stop short of this center reference. Flip the cushion back over at the starting point and work my way back to the center. I'll mate up these two opposing ends with half-inch seam allowances. Sew the two ends together. I'll finish sewing around this side panel and stop just short of the rear corner to leave an opening. I've folded strips of cotton and found that six layers compresses feels nice with a 22 inch width. I'll put in two layers of cotton on the ends and wrap the cushion four times. I'll pull this back and snug the cotton into place. I'm going to flip-flop or rotate these layers as I pull them in on the side. They should balance out pretty good right here. I'll pull out some of the bulk in these corners and even them up. I'll tear away this plastic and get it all out, and then I'll work with these seams and lay them back. Having the slippies on here allows me to do this without disturbing the cotton. I'll tug this cording back and work the seam, lay it back all one direction. I'll stitch around this corner and add some cotton to fill out these curves. I'll use a couple colors of wax and fill in this hole. All right, that's a wrap on that project.