Exploring the dirt roads of the Alpine NP then over Dead Horse Gap S1 - E16

Motorcycle Adventure Tour
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1 Video View·Jan 27, 2026
The solo motorcycle camping adventure continues, after waking up at the perfect camp spot getting a swim in and checking out the locals, I ride through 100km of dirt roads through national Parks and twisting logging trails on my Royal Enfield Himalayan, then I head up the mountain to Dead Horse Gap where the wind picks up and the temperature drops.
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Morning. A bit of cloud cover this morning, which was predicted had to be all in cloud,
but the sun might just sneak through. Today's plan, make it up to the Mount Kosciuszko area,
Thredbo, Jindabyte, all that sort of thing. Try not to make it another 11-12 hour day on the bike.
Nothing wrong with that. Just two days in a row I might start to feel it's sore.
Yesterday was the ride of a thousand corners, or maybe two or three. It was a lot of corners.
If you want a lot of corners, do a couple of mountaintops.
And because I couldn't camp anywhere near Mount Hotham up the top,
just the day dragged on. Felt like I was rushing it a bit. So today I'm going to take it easier.
Theoretically it's about three and a half to four hours to get to the New South Wales side
of the mountain range. So hopefully there's not too many long distractions, but otherwise I'm just
going to chill here for a bit longer. Probably go for a swim if I can brave the water. Is moving
water colder than lake water? Or is lake water colder than moving water? Anyway, it'll be cold.
It's late. I think it was 10 degrees last night, so it wasn't too cold here. I think that's because
of the cloud cover. Yeah, so swim. Take things slow. There's no rush. And enjoy the rest of today.
It's fresh. Fresh would be the word. Before I get in, have a look at this sucker.
And I reckon that's a nest of babies. Hundreds, if not thousands. Gotta love Australia.
And remember, with animals in Australia, don't mess with them and they most likely won't mess
with you. Sometimes they will. Just the way it is. But if you start on them, they'll have a crack.
As I said, fresh but totally worth it. Now to get some clothes on and get warm. The fog was still
trying to lift from the hills behind me and the locals weren't in a rush to do much. I went and
checked out the old bridge that the campsite gets its name from. How's this old bridge? These metal
bits were obviously put here after to keep the thing from falling over. Seems to be a historical
bridge. It's got its own plaque. My mate Dave would love this wood. I mean, he wouldn't take this one
down because it's still intact. But if he found one like this that was fallen over, imagine what
you could make with it. What you could recycle. Even the floors double-layered. The Mitre Trust
bridge was an important link to the goldfields of Mount Wills. The first bridge was built here
in 1891. But the bridge would continually get damaged due to debris collecting around the piers
during flooding. And by 1908, the bridge was closed due to the damage it sustained. Eventually it was
replaced with this Trust Bridge which was opened in April 1910. The bridge was officially recognised
and registered under the Historical Building Act in 1991. After checking out the bridge, I decided
it was time to pack up and tackle the day's riding. I'd only gone a few kilometres up the road
and then I saw what might be a good photo. So a quick u-turn. So this is one of the reasons I
rode alone. Most people wouldn't put up with me doing this all the time. Seeing something, then
turning around to check it out. Sometimes I'd look and think, no there's no shot there. Other times
I'd take a photo but it wasn't worth stopping. But sometimes you do get a decent shot. But man, this
would annoy a lot of people. I spotted another old bridge from 1918. It looked a little dodgy but it
has been here for over 100 years. And as they say, things were built to last back in the day.
And lasted this bridge has. Look at that. I'd spotted a wooden structure that had actually
fallen down. Take note Dave, just as you leave Omeo, on the right. I'd come back into Omeo as
I needed supplies. And yesterday when riding through, I got a glimpse of a piece of artwork
that looked a little out of place in an old mining town. Also I wanted to get another photo.
Ah, me stopping again. In front of the old Omeo service station. Now to head into the mountains.
Hopefully making it over the top through Dead Horse Gap and dropping down the other side
to Jindabyne. The crosswind was blowing pretty hard. I had to lean on, hanging for the road to
turn left. The road I was on eventually turned to dirt and I found myself in the Alpine National
Park. The track ran beside the Gibbo River. That's a very Australian naming protocol,
adding an O to it. Like Jonno, Jacko, Robbo. I'm not exactly sure how logging trucks fit across
these really narrow bridges. Well here's where the rule of tonnage applies. Whoever has more
has right away. And here's why it's best to wait for the dust to clear. As you wouldn't want to
miss seeing another one of these. I pulled over off the road as the dust ball coming looked like
it was going to make it really hard to see. I continued snaking my way up this valley logging
road. More trucks, more dust. It quickly got a lot colder at the top so I cranked up the
grip warmers. It was time for a quick stop to fuel up and dust off. I've just pulled over on
the NSW Victoria border, which is actually a river. Didn't know that. But just pre-empting
and putting on my puffer jacket because we're going up and it's going to get cold.
How good was the dirt road? I didn't know it was going to be dirt.
It was 60, 70 car of dirt. A lot of corrugations and a lot of rocks and the bike did well. I had
to check over it just before. Make sure nothing rattled apart. It was rough.
So holding up well. Now it's going up. Should be fun. With the wind picking up there was a lot of
tree debris on the road. It started to feel like I was moving into the alpine region and the black
stumps on the trees were due to a fire that came through here in the last couple of years. Also you
can see a lot of snowy gums are dying out. They think it's due to the native longicorn beetle.
Grip warmers back on again. They were definitely getting a lot of use today. I was making my way
up to the pass called Dead Horse Gap. It gets its name from the Brumbrees, that's wild horses for
anyone not from Australia, that sometimes became trapped in the area due to unexpected snowfalls
and would end up dying. I made it to Dead Horse Gap. This is the pass from one side to the other
and it's cold. Probably another 30-40 maybe an hour to get down to Jindabyne. No real camping
up here unless you book. You have to book in advance so that sort of counts me out. The road
down from Dead Horse Gap runs along the side of the Thredbo River for the first half and it is one
of the most stunning small mountain rivers I've ever seen. And that is the ski resort of Thredbo.
It also has great mountain biking tracks if you're here in summer.
So made it to Jindabyne and it's very windy. First things first, I forgot to eat again.
As there were shops close by I grabbed some food. The wind was so strong it had pushed the lake
water over the walking path along the shore and for setting up a tent, let's just say the wind
wasn't doing me any favours. But in the end after a lot of struggle I did get the tent up.
The tent seems to be the only safe place to be although I've had one blow down already and the
tent's laying flat even with the poles. It started at Dead Horse Gap, started getting really windy
up there and all the way down and then a bit of a chop on my lake at Jindabyne. Besides the wind
it was a pretty pretty good day. It was only going to be three and a half to four hour ride
but with the dirt road, what 70-80 km's of that, it slows you down especially with those
logging trucks and then me wanting to take a photo all the time I see something. I have mountain biked
up at Thredbo before which is pretty good and the Thredbo river that runs along it is stunning but
again really windy just couldn't really stop. I had to get down here. I was surprised I got to
the gate at the National Park on this side there isn't one on the other side and I was sure Parks
and Wildlife New South Wales were going to still charge me riding through the park. I think it's
20 or 30 dollars to park entry but the lady at the counter said no if you've just ridden through
it's okay so Parks and Wildlife doing the sensible thing. Who knew? So I have ended up at my second
caravan park for the trip. I've been in the area before and it's hard to get in. There's no free
camping and when you're sort of stealth camping you've really got to leave it late and with this
wind and I hadn't eaten I threw in the towel to the caravan park. So tomorrow's plan I'm not sure
I don't know whether to go the coast or head more towards Sydney or through Canberra or
I just I think I'm gonna leave that till tomorrow. I just no clue. I'm gonna crash out now and
hopefully the tent doesn't lay down through the night with the wind or take off altogether. I'm
sure the bike won't blow over. That's what's protecting me well somewhat from the wind. I've
put the bike between the wind and the tent sort of and there is a tree there. Hopefully it provides
some shelter. Stepping it up from the can tuna for dinner tonight because I could get to a shop
gourmet. I could be in France or Italy right now. Here comes the wind. It's just trying to
hopefully it's only a small shower. I don't want to get too wild.
