How Real Pecorino Romano Cheese Is Made In Lazio Italy Regional Eats

Italian Dishes
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Pecorino Romano has been used in the kitchens
of ancient Rome for over a million years
Today this ancient cheese has become a modern
global enterprise worth more than 600 million euros
Not even a third of this brought into the United States
And yet despite its name most Pecorino
Romano is no longer produced near Rome
To connect with international demand production has
moved 280 kilometers from the island of Sardinia
Today we're in Neppi 30 kilometers from
Rome to visit one of the few producers
still made in Lazio the
original region of this cheese
I'm here to see how Ibuana Tavola makes their cheese
and I'm lucky enough to have Giuseppe Capuani with me
e director
of this ancient cheese in my opinion
The process for making Pecorino Romano begins with the
distribution of milk After
arriving at the cheese facility
It is cleaned using a process called pasteurization then
transferred into these large
vats to be turned into cheese
Like most sheep's milk
cheeses Pecorino Romano
is seasonal produced from October to June
with higher volumes between January and month
The curds are added and
after some drying the
milk begins to cook
The curds are then cut
until the pieces are the
size of rice grains The grains
and cheese are then transferred
into another large vat
There's so much milk that
it takes about 20 minutes
The curds are then processed
for another 30 minutes
o release the excess cheese before being cut into
larger pieces The cheeses are cut
into small blocks
They are positioned in various ways
Fresh cheeses
They don't taste much yet
because they haven 't
been tasted yet But
it's nice to try them
Want to give it a go No no
See this is the
proof They say you should always
share with the cameraman
but I can taste them myself
No problem
Even though I wasn’t particularly
impressed by this piece of cheese I
’d still recommend
staying here until
the end when we taste the cheese
because I can assure you that he
has changed my mind and indeed
I'm not the only one Since the
beginning of the twentieth century
When Italian cuisine
began moving abroad
this cheese became a
hit in the United States
In the most recent production cycle approximately
8 000 tons of Pecorino Romano were
shipped to the United States
Romano cheese became so
popular that producers in Lazio
and surrounding regions could
no longer keep up with demand
With the surge in
exports to the United
States a product shortage began to
emerge precisely because a portion of
the output was being diverted overseas
was intended for the United
States so it was absent in these
regions The part of Italy with
the highest number of sheep
more pastures and more grazing lands
than ever before Sardinia which
traditionally never
used Pecorino Romano as
evidenced by the fact that even today
It is the region of Italy that consumes the least pecorino
What then happened was that
some entrepreneurs from Rome
They began producing in Sardinia
While the production process remains
the same Giuseppe says the real
differences start with the milk
There are differences in
terms of the production
process itself but from the standpoint of flavor
So how do you tell a Pecorino Romano apart One thing
to note is that the two
cheeses are literally different
because as is indeed true
milk and the animal themselves
are affected by their
environment by the pasture itself
They feel the effects of
their diet consequently
Today Pecorino
Romano is protected
by a PDO or Protected Designation
of Origin meaning it can only be
produced under strict regulations
and in specific zones
The PDO has helped Roman sheep
cheese grow internationally
making it easier for consumers
o distinguish it from imitations
But this growth has not
helped all producers equally
Thus with the argument of lower
cost it easily captured the market
and there it put many regional
companies under serious pressure
It's true that were more than 20 producing companies and we ended
up staying with Orica which
continues to produce historically
A large portion of the Pecorino
Romano made there today is
produced on a much larger scale
In Lazio production has remained
A touch of craftsmanship that
Giuseppe deeply values On the
shapes an additional mark can be
applied that
identifies the region
It's true that on our cheese we
write Pecorino
Romano from Lazio
Sardinians could write
Pecorino Romano from Sardinia
but they certainly won't write it that way
This is the labeling of
Pecorino Romano
that runs all the way around the band
This is the year and month of
production The one above is the
toll booth The
toll booth includes
the provincial
code and a number
In Lazio we have between
2 and 99 So what is a
number there the Sardinians have from
101 onwards
from 2 to 99
Otherwise there would be the first and it wouldn't
be worth it
So we as a toll booth
have VT8
which remains stamped onto the mold
At this point
the wheels weigh about 35 kg
and as they continue to clatter
They are reduced to about 30 kg
Because the components of the process
are still handmade
We usually apply
the branding
band when the cheese is
cold because when it's warm
it gets twisted and turned
just to make faces
He needs to make a blank face
From here we go down to the cellar
This is the only producer
of cheese
and especially Pecorino Romano
which still uses the
cellars to age the cheese
The next day the cheese
is salted This place
s dedicated to cheese in
brine Here the
cheese rests
from day one up to three
months Brining typically lasts
about three months
In other words we apply
a first layer of salt
and set it aside
The first layer of salt lasts
10 12 or 15 days Then it
is washed reassembled and
this process continues for
a period of three months
This passage used to be done
entirely by hand but today
it is often done with a
machine to make
the work easier
Some wheels however are still
too large for the
machine Clearly the salting is being
done with a certain
kind of salt
which has a medium cut we'd say—meaning
it's neither a fine
grind nor a coarse one
Not a coarse salt
It's a medium grind
Why
Because if we used fine salt
it would dissolve immediately
So the cheese within three or four days would lose
its salt and thus be prone
to mold absorbing
even more
The wheels we're seeing
today are
undergoing their
second salting It depends on how
the cheese behaves
because we know that at times
certain textures and shapes can
lose all their
flavor and that 's
precisely where mold begins
So at that point you have to clean up and step in You
can tell why with
the cheese they’ve got this To my
eye I can say it’s
not the first time
In three months of salting we
must keep the bandage
on Why the bandage Because otherwise
the weight of the mold would
as long as one
is properly
aged the weight itself
would tend to say flatten
and distort the shape
If the environment breathes the
cheese oxygenates
and stays clean
After three months the Pecorino
Romano has completed
the most critical
part of its aging
and the priority
becomes protecting
it from drying out
and avoid cheese
Traditionally
this was done
using olive oil sediments
Mixed with water or vinegar
Today it's made with a pair of plastic tongs and
we do it before
putting the cheese
on the market
depending on the client's
needs and the
market we are
selling into In the past
when the
tramontana wind blew
which is a northerly wind that
tends to dry things
out meaning the
cheese had to be
protected on the
surface with some fatty substance
o prevent it from losing
moisture on the
surface which
could cause the rind to
shrink and the
cheese to crack
Thus in the Roman
Lazio tradition cheese
was prepared
by drizzling
it with olive oil
mixed with vinegar
which acted as a natural
antidote Then when olive
oil alone was not enough
Since using only oil
tends to make it seep
into the cheese the
oil was added with ash
Thus adding ash caused the
outer part to
turn a dark gray
This practical need gave
rise to the tradition of black
of the past
We can still see
this older method
in some other cheeses
produced by the company
which still use
olive oil sedime
and vinegar
When the Roman pecorino
is covered with black
the top and bottom
of the wheel
are often left
ot covered by appearance
In the past
when olive oil sediment
and vinegar
were used instead
Covering these surfaces
could trap
moisture and air
causing the
cheese to develop
mold Why is this material
It's very dense but once
it dries all the cheese's characteristics
become apparent
again In practical
terms it's now quite thick
But then when
it loses moisture
it becomes a veil In practical
terms in past times this
thing here the cheese so white
You'd never have gotten it otherwise
Why specifically with the speech
about passing the oilcloth
and the vinegar
and the cheese
It would turn a light brownish
shade like that or even become
completely black So we can say that in the collective
image there's still
In this figure of
Pecorino Romano it'
s black dark That's
exactly what makes
it so dark Precisely So much so that on the market especially in Lazio
The pecorino won't
sell if it doesn't have
the black rind because
consumers associate
that black color with the
cheese's quality even though that black is actually
It was just a dress
It's truly satisfying
I think that after all these years of
filming with cheese I'
ve truly achieved this
I was trying to be
respectful and obvious
I don't want to get dirty
Not all cheeses are covered
in black and
white this step is
now often replaced by a cow's
cover that protects the cheese
and prepares him for a longer act
See
It would be October 28th
Then there's 1
Because we base it
on the multifaceted
assessments we conduct there
We'll also identify
the first multifunctional
one the second the third so that
we have perfect traceability For
regulation purposes
it would be sufficient
e monthly one
Because we have the daily one
and the versatile one
and versatile
precisely because the type of milk changes
the conditions change
And so if there were a flaw tomorrow we could
understand why In this cold dry
environment the
Pecorino Romano
It is between 12 and 15 months
Giuseppe's is still aged for more
than 36 months producing a
cheese that is
thinner and sharper
This is cheese that
dates back to January of
last year so this is
cheese that is
12 months old
So what cheeses
are there
that more or less taste
each other Inside the
cheese factory right now
There will be 20 000
quintals of cheese which among all cheeses amounts
to 60 000 Perhaps a bit more
Approximately 80% of their
cheese is exported to the United
States a relationship deeply rooted
in the history of Ibuanatavola
When we talk about Pecorino Romano the
U S market is the most important Efforts are made to find new
markets but undoubtedly
the cheese itself remains central
It's a dietary habit
So it seems in the United States
precisely because of the fact
that perhaps the Italians arrived
perhaps the arrival of Italian cuisine has come
it is the market that absorbs
the world's largest amount of Pecorino Romano
On the other side
for our company
It's important because were
among the first exporters
to the United States So
much so that the company
which should be fish tuna
salted cod yet instead it's cheese precisely
because of the fact tha
which was shipped by ships
to the United
States Therefore
this brand does not come
from cheese but from ships
So they were little sheep traveling They were heading
toward the United States
This also enabled this company
surviving in the sense
that our product was valued
thus paid for by the consumer
at a slightly higher rate
How much it was
paid in Italy and
this allowed us to fund Italian losses using the U S market This
is not true only for this company
For the entire Roman cheese industry the United
States is a major market
with exports of approximately
170 million dollars a month
Because so much
of the cheese is
sold abroad consumers around
the world taste the difference
Between Sardinian pecorino
and Lazio pecorino if we
look closely the
Lazio pecorino
is red rather than black
It refers to the color of
olive oil sediment rather
than dryness and it's
also a way for the company
visually distinguish the cheese
Giuseppe's company
primarily sells
to boutique cheese producers
where Romano cheese
It can be sold for about 29 dollars a month It's a more carefully
selected product
supported by consumers
looking for something specific
and harder to imitate One
could say a third of
these cheeses is
destined for the U S market yes That
positioning
It has also helped the
company meet certain
export requirements
including U S tariffs
They have considered imposing
tariffs on European
food products
before 2025 I was concerned about
interest rates and I am not now
because I think in a certain
way and say if it's true
that Italy exports quality
and exports special products
They go to a group of people who
can afford the luxury of spending
What they spend doesn't hinge on
a few cents one way or the other
So you're not worried
We're moving to a more promising market
and therefore a higher level of course
It's not a mass-market product
because a mass-produced item can
be replaced but this one can't—
those who buy smoke buy smoke But
let me tell you something else
Thirty grams of cheese go
on a plate of pasta That
amount makes no difference
Despite traditional tensions
Roman sheep cheese exports to
the United States remain
unaffected so far
Roman cuisine is moreover
substantial pleasing
and affordable
If she talks to me about a cacio e pe in a cacio
e pe there are 20
grams of pecorino for two hundred grams of pasta
How much is a plate of cacio e pe
One euro But we're a family of five there with five euros
eating and living on it
Roman cuisine is a
humble yet delightful
one and I began eating Parmesan cheese
When I was 20 years old
That is at home we ate pecorino
So he told me that
since he was 20 years old
It's still got that pecorino
isn't it—has it really
been twenty years Since I
was twenty Now I'm twenty-two
It's been a couple of years now You have
to ease into
it gradually Because
if you push too hard all at once you
might end up developing a belly here
And the flight on the other side and vice versa
How much I've aged
Or something is wrong
Damn you come on
It's possible this one doesn't want to break
The author feels it's not salty
It's very sweet
It's a very sweet delicate
Creamy Honestly I've never tasted a
pecorino
quite like this
It's different The cheese
is fantastic This is
January January 12th so exactly today
is January 13th
Date of use
Wow so this
has been a
year of aging here Twenty
indeed Look if you pay attention
they used to
say cheese weeps
See how it shines
A pecorino by tradition must have the
tear The tear is what forms
when it reaches
a certain degree
during the aging
process at a very
low temperature the cheese is just
right when it develops these
droplets meaning
it has aged properly
the right way
Is that the right fat
It's the fat that separates from the casein
and other products
That is also my tears
The tears
I won't be able to carry this photo
This is the cheese that once you put
it on the table I end up eating it too honestly
Yes well I can see the
sparkle quite clearly from
here now that I've had close
contact with this pecorino
Closer than anything I 've ever
had I believe
Thank you so much for
watching If you have a pecorino in your
fridge or pot I
recommend you go and take a look
Please let me know where it 's
made Do you know if it's
produced in Sardinia or in
Rome Can you tell the difference
