Rock Ola Legend Jukebox Power Supply Repair - Machine Won't Turn On!

Ladies and gentlemen, this is Joe's Jukeboxes back with another cool jukebox repair video for you today. This is an awesome Rock-Ola Legend CD jukebox. We bought this at an auction a while back. Kind of sight unseen. I mean, we saw pictures of it, but we have no clue if it works, what's going on with it, if it's even complete. I think it is. We brought it in. We've had it in storage for a little while because we've got other things. I mean, we've got a few other things that we're there's other things that we're, we got a lot of other things that we're working on, but we were moving some trucks around and saw it again and thought, hey, we need to finally get that thing working. I used to work a route where a gentleman used to, this was his favorite jukebox. He used to put these out and this would have been in the early 2000s, the mid 2000s. And he just loved these things. So he had probably a hundred of them on the route and they were very reliable and we didn't have that much trouble out of them. Now this one here might be a dog. I don't know. Like I said, we bought it at an auction. Don't know what's going on with it. I'm wondering if the time has just come where you don't operate CD boxes anymore. So maybe they're all digital download boxes now. And so these are all just retired. Maybe we'll get lucky and the thing just works right out of the box. What do you think? So, I don't know when these came out. I would assume mid 90s, but they're beautiful. Let's just get kind of like a burgundy and cream or tan side. They've got the coin box door taped on. Actually, I don't see any damage on it on the sides of them. Just a little dirty. And then you've got what looks like, I don't know, what are those six inch speakers on the top? You can see it there through the girl cloth. There's a little mirrored Rockola logo there. Rockola Legend Series, supersonic sound, cybersonic sound. And it has these plastic pages here that you don't see any art in. And it has the famous Pro Player in it. I guess that one's an actual Pro Player. There's some that just say Philips on it. Yeah, CD Pro. So hopefully that works. But you know, we bought it from an operator. I would assume that it doesn't work. Why would they leave a working Pro Player in a machine? But maybe, maybe we'll get lucky. It was last licensed it looks like in 2016. The other one over there license says 2014. So, they're just beautiful boxes. And they like a Harley Davidson version. And they may have made a couple other versions. Cabinetry by Antique Apparatus. Wasn't that the company that owned the Rockola name basically? Rockola was still in Torrance, California I suppose. Check out the serial number. Look how there's extra numbers. Crazy. It's a 7000-1. 330 watt amp in this sucker. I guess it's 330 watts for the whole machine, not just the amp. This, I would guess went to like a volume control. But I don't know. All right, let's open her up. Well, I gotta say I like what I see. It looks pretty complete to me. The gas shocks are wearing out. So, the hood is slowly lowering. I call it the death. The Indiana Jones Temple of Doom death door. Notice that they've mounted these spikes on here that go right through your soft spot. So, I've fixed that by wedging a piece of wood in there. Completely safe. Don't do this at home folks. I'm an idiot. All right, so I noticed the first thing is that it has a remote control in it. I had a friend who for years, every time he saw me, he was all into old jukeboxes and old cars and everything. And every time I saw him, he would say, hey, let me ask you a question. Because I knew I worked for an operator. He'd say, I've got one of those Rockola Legend jukeboxes and I don't have the remote control for it. Have you got one of those remotes? He's always trying to get me to steal a remote control from my boss. And I am not a thief. So, I never did that. But I don't know. He probably didn't want me to steal it. He just wanted me to acquire one somehow. But there it is. Unfortunately, he has passed away. So, he doesn't need that anymore. And their manual is in there. I like that. That's cool. They didn't tighten down the transport bolts. But that's cool. They're still in there, so it didn't bounce all the way out or anything. It's got a Mars bill acceptor. If you know anything about the bill acceptors, the Mars ones were the good ones. And it's just everything's complete. So, that's the computer power supply. And if I remember correctly, this whole thing folds down somehow. Yeah, it's really heavy. Now, these sheets might fall out of here. Those were bad about breaking. This is snapped. There is our amplifier. It's a CD input, CD output, background music input, preamp output. There's just a lot going on. Paging microphone input. And then they are using what appears to be like a telephone line. And it says, to computer. And they put a little fluorescent lamp in there. One of those little squiggly ones. And it may illuminate that. Okay. So, our little thing that's hanging out the back appears to be this remote sensor. Yeah, that's right. There was like a little board, I think, that you mounted somewhere, like on the wall behind it. And that made the remote control work. Like a little IR or RF, not RF, whatever. Is it IR? Sensor. So, there would be a little board for that. It looks like it's missing. But that's cool. Okay. So, everything looks fine. Maybe we'll just plug it in and see if she powers up. Now, on the old arcade games and the old pinball machines, I always worked through the power supply and all of that. These are new enough that I'm just going to plug it in and see what works and what doesn't work and then troubleshoot it from there. I realize a bunch of time has passed since the last time I had one of these. So, they're all about 30 years old now. But it is what it is. See, let me think. So, I would always bring them up slow, you know, and test through the power supply on like a Ms. Pac-Man that came out in 1980 or 1981. And I've been doing this since the early 2000s. So, whenever they were 20 years old, I would go through the power supply and make sure everything was all right. This one's 30 years old and we're just going to plug her in. I think it's going to be fine, folks. These Rockolas are built nice. So, let's see what the problem is. Why did they sell this thing? Alright, so before I plug this in, this was still turned on. I know Joe never leaves them like that, so I don't think he's ever tested this thing. I'm going to go ahead and turn it on. It was pretty stiff to turn. You can see, too, that there is actually a power selector underneath this and it's set on USA. Yeah, this thing is stiff. Well, I guess I'm going to need something to actually push it. Now we know why it was like that. Alright, well, I was able to push it with something. We should be able to repair that. If not, we can replace that whole piece. So, we're going to hot, hot swap it. Nothing. Well, I think that switch is bad. Or they've got a bunch of stuff unplugged. Yeah, I think that switch is bad. Let me mess with it a little bit, see if I can get some power to jump through it. I forgot about the service switches. That makes sense, doesn't it? So, this has came off, too, this wheel. And while I was getting the manual out, I found this other one. It's going to be for the animation. Maybe one on each side or something. Alright, so these service switches, we'll probably pull them out to get some. One out, didn't do nothing. Two out, didn't do nothing. I got nothing. Yeah, I can't remember. I thought that had to do with the animation or something. I'm looking in the manual. It's not a ton of help. It doesn't actually show the main service entrance. It doesn't show the 110 coming in. And it doesn't show the service switches that I was just looking at. It does show a couple of relays. Well, let me keep messing around, see what I can find. Well, I guess you'll have to disregard what I said. Like usual, we're just going to start at the wall and work through it. So, this is what I would call the service entrance. We've got to figure out why the switch is so rough. And then we've got to see if power is actually getting through it. Looks like it's just an off-the-shelf part. 10 amp. So, it's got a line filter built into it. See the little cap there? A couple of them up here. I suppose that's a resistor. Alright, let me see if I can figure out how to get into it. That looks designed to remove, doesn't it? I bet there's another one. And then we've also got this little door. Maybe I'll go through this little door first because it looks like it goes around that. I really fixed it good. Alright, so here is the switch that is hard to turn. The way it works is, if you look down in there, there are two contacts up here. You see them up here? And then on this side, there are two other blades that form kind of like a pivot. And if you look on the back, those two blades are these two blades. Notice that they are very black and oxidized and needed a little work. That could have been the whole problem. So, I'm going to clean all that up. And then sitting on those little pivots are these little things. So, you see there is the other contact. So, they sit on that little pivot like that. And then this goes in there. And if you push it this way, it moves this little thing, which I don't know if it hits the back of that or if I've got it backwards. Maybe it goes this way. It's probably like that. Yeah, you push it. I guess it goes like that. You push it and it will push that and make it where it disconnects. And if you go the other way, it releases it or pushes it the other way where the two contacts are connected. Easy peasy. Simplest little design. Alright, so let me mess with that first and see if I can get it back together and then see why it's tough to move back and forth. One of these must have been out of place or something. If one of those was bounced out of place, and it was when I opened it, but I've been prying on it and stuff. If one of these wasn't in the right place, that would both make it hard to push and it would make it where it didn't connect, which would be our whole problem. Alright, so I cleaned up the little contacts on the bottom a little bit. I cleaned the contacts inside, snapped it all back together, and now I can easily push it either way. Now, why it was so stiff before, I have no idea. Unless it just got damaged somehow or maybe one of those little contacts was in there weird. Maybe somebody had been messing with it. I don't know. It all looked original to me, but there's no problem now. And when I set it like this, which makes those contacts push down, on the other ones, if I check continuity between these two blades, there is continuity. And if I check continuity between these two blades, there is continuity. Now, when I check continuity, when I say that, I'm not talking about the beep. I don't trust the beep at all. I never use the beep. What I do is I set it on ohms. Set it on ohms. And then, so like if you're on ohms, this meter is at 0.2. That's the resistance in the leads, right? So, if I have a good connection, I should be something like that. So, if I connect, if I try to test continuity over this metal file here, I get 0.1 or 0.2 ohms. So, it's the same thing because that's connected. Now, the little beep will do that too. So, a lot of people just use the continuity beep. So, theirs does this. Well, yeah, but it'll do that up to a certain point and then stop. If something has like 10 ohms of resistance in it, it's still connected, you know, but there's 10 ohms of resistance. So, it might beep or it might not beep. I'm not actually wanting to know is this connected to this. I'm wanting to know how well is that connected to this. So, if we look at this at the moment, I don't know if I can do this with one hand. Let me see how good my chopsticks are today. Not quite. I'm on the continuity thing. Oh boy, and I got to do it over again. That's right. So, it's telling me that there is 0.3 ohms resistance, 0.2, 0.3 between there and there. And then, if I flip it the other way, it's open. It's not connected. So, it's working properly as a switch. Anyway, that's just how I do it. I like knowing the ohms. I like knowing is it connected with 10 ohms of resistance or is it connected with, you know, a quarter of an ohm resistance. And in some things it doesn't matter, but in other things it matters a lot. So, like in a pinball machine, like an EM pinball machine, some of the coils have like three or four ohms of resistance over them. So, if you check from ground to about any wire in the game that just happens to be connected to a coil, it's going to tell you that they're connected on continuity. The continuity test is going to say they're connected, but they're not. They have four ohms resistance because you're checking through a coil somewhere. So, they're not connected at all. That one's connected to one side of a coil and this wire is connected to the other side of a coil. That wire is not touching that wire, but it's connected to a coil that's touching. So, whenever you work with stuff, you just kind of need to keep that in mind. Yeah, that's on my whole point. Okay, so let me slide this back in here and then put all this stuff back together. None of it's all super important. And we'll see if that fixed our issue. All right, so we're going all back together. This is a great example of stuff that you get at arcade auctions. Todd Tucky talks about this all the time. If you get something at an auction, it's probably the biggest piece of junk ever. It's probably a problem child. That's why they've gotten rid of it. I think this thing is missing a fuse. So, there is a little insert that goes in here. So, let me show the back first. So, it plugs in here. You realize the middle one's ground and then the other two are the two AC lines. So, this is it connected here. And this little thing here pulls apart. We had it apart to get our switch out. Our switch is right here. So, basically, this runs through. It runs through the switch. Now that it's on the other side of the switch, it connects to... There's a capacitor and a resistor tied across the two. Then it comes up here and there is a capacitor again. Blah, blah, blah, blah, blah. And then you end up with 110 right here. The two sides of your 110 right here. Okay. So, if I measure continuity between here and here, it's all connected because I've got the switch on. If I measure continuity between here and here, it's all connected because I've got the switch on. If I turn the switch off, they're no longer connected. So, all of this is working fine up to right here. And then you've got where these two, which are your AC, somehow turn into these four. Okay. So, if you look down in here, the four blades are just sticking in the plastic. There's nothing connecting them at all. They're literally just stuck in the plastic. And then on the side here, you see a little metal blade there. And see, it's kind of like a concave curved surface. See the curve in it? And then on this side, there is another one that's kind of a concave curve. So, if you look at that, that is connected to that blade. So, there's that blade and that blade. This isn't connected. It just happens to be there. So, this blade is that piece in the middle that's right here. So, really what we've got going on is that our AC is present on that left side and on the right side. There's two voltages there. Okay. So, if you put this insert in, it goes in like this for 115, goes in like that for 230. The difference is how it joins the wires together that are going to the transformer. So, on the back of this, it's going to have four wires wired up. And so, if it's set up for AC, the two on the left are going to be joined together. I mean, if it's set for 120, the two on the left are going to be joined together and the two on the right are going to be joined together. And so, they run off and plug into the transformer and you are connecting two wires together and two other wires together. Okay. If you turn it upside down and make it 230, you are now connecting. You're leaving the left and the right connected the way they were, but instead of this one being connected to this one and this one being connected to this one, you're joining those two together. So, what is all that all about? Well, if you look in the manual, you can kind of tell. Here is the transformer. And so, there's four wires. So, if this gets 120, or they're saying 110, if this gets 110 and this gets 110, it does one thing. If the plug is shorted in such a way that these two are connected, you're tying the two transformers, the two primaries together, which is what you would do to set it up for 220. So, it's just a, it's an easy way to swap it from 115 to 120. Now, disregard that they say 110, 115, and 120. You know, any of them will work. Okay. So, my whole point. Now, you know, this isn't my machine. And obviously, it's the first time I've ever even messed with this thing. I don't know anything about it, but I'm just trying to deduce through what must be going on. So, this insert goes in there like that. Well, you can see what happens. Over here, there is this little clip. So, that little thing, now it curves up, is going to press on our metal thing here, which sticks out from the wall just a little bit. And so, when I slide this in, that's going to touch it, which means that the AC is going to connect through here, through this bar, into the two wires on this side. So, those two wires are white and red and yellow, which is terminal D and terminal C. And if you look on the back, it does say terminal D and terminal C. So, those two are connected. All right. So, D and C, white and red and yellow, run over two pins three and five of connector J1. They're trying to make it as complicated as possible for us. Pins three and five. So, pin three of J1 connects directly to pin three of J2. Pin five of J1 connects directly to pin five of J2. So, it ends up being J2, pin three, and pin five, which is white and black and white. Pin three, white. Pin five, black and green, but same thing. This is J2. So, that's connecting one side of each transformer separately. Well, where's my other two wires? Well, that's the other side, right? And you know, since it's AC, we've got two sides. We've got one side of the AC here and one side of the AC here. You've got to have both or it's not going to do anything. So, this side's connected. Well, this side, if you look, when it slides in there, it doesn't have this clip. So, that little connector is way down in there and that can't touch that in any way. Now, I didn't lose it when I pulled it out or anything. That's just how it came out. So, it's gone. And why the hell do they even have that little clip? If you look, it'll come right off. It just pulls right off. So, why do they make it where the thing can be removed and all of that? I think it's so you can add a fuse. So, I don't know if the thing had a fuse and it blew it or if they lost this little clip. You know, doing things while you're holding a camera is a sport. It's like an Olympic. I'll mess with that. So, I don't know if they lost it or they pulled it out or what. But if you look carefully, I think a fuse goes in there. See the little, see how that's circular? Like, what is the point of this up here? I think it's to hold a fuse. So, it has this little thing, which is going to, it's like spring loaded almost. I mean, there's not a spring, but it's this steel basically creates a spring, right? So, if you were to put a glass fuse in there from here down to here, this end of it would line right up with that little side bar and this little spring would keep it pushed up against the side and effectively you would have a fuse inside of it from the AC that we know is present on the side here and then these pins on the back coming out of it. So, I think it just blew a fuse and they pulled it out and got rid of the fuse or something. Or it may have had this clip. You know, if you put this clip, this wouldn't be fused, but the board is fused as soon as the power goes into the board. But this is a main fuse. If I put a fuse in here, this is going to be a main fuse before the transformer, which we want, right? So, pins A and B are black and red and they go to pin 2 and pin 4 of J1. So, pin 2 runs through this. Pin 4 also runs through this. Pin 2 or pin 4, for whatever reason, they have running to the service plug as well. And then they're, oh yeah, because they got to have, it's the other side of the AC. Okay, yeah. So, they've got both of these running through these and it says Keystone inrush current limiters prevent the Corcom fuse failure at turn 1. Corcom, right? So, those two run to pin 2 and pin 4 on J2. J2. Pin 2, one side of the transformer. 4 is the other side of the transformer. So, we need, we obviously need both sides because, you know, but they are calling this thing a Corcom. So, it's telling you right there that there's a fuse in it. So, I think it's blown the fuse. And it says all over this that it's a 10 amp. So, should I put a 10 amp in it? Hmm. It doesn't, they don't show you an actual drawing of the thing. So, I don't, I don't have any clue what the fuse is supposed to be. It does say 10 amp all over the side of it and it doesn't mention the fuse. 10 switch rating. And, you know, when you power something on, like it said, you get an inrush. So, it has to actually kind of be a little higher than what you run in it. So, I don't know. The whole thing was, what did we say? 330 amps or something like that. So, that's like less than 330 watts. So, that's less than 3 amps. So, I think what I'll do is I'll put a 5 amp fuse in it. We'll just split the baby. I'm gonna put a 5 amp fuse in it and we'll just see what happens. I think it's supposed to be a fast blow too. So, I'm gonna try a 5 amp fast blow fuse. And, I think that will get our power back and that should make the thing either blow the fuse or boot the machine up. All right, let's see how explosive this gets. And, I gotta put my hand right there beside it. I can hear it. I can actually hear that the transformer's getting power. Hear it? Okay, let's see if the lights are on. Yeah, so we've got some action here. 24, 12, 12 volt switched and 24 volt AC is not on. Let me go look at the schematics on that. Okay, so you may notice I was messing around with that plate and everything. Be real careful with that because that board is mounted to the back of it. So, if you touch that while it's turned on, it might short something out. So, here on the schematics, which are finally a little bit useful to us, we're looking for the diodes. So, like if we look here, CR7 yellow. See how it's lit up? It says 12 volts DC. Well, that one was lit up. So, it's getting its power through a relay that is not turned on. So, that's the 12. Okay, so that one is on because this relay is not turned on. It looks like what turns on the relay is the line that says switch normally open. So, that's going to be something to do with the switch up on the top that I was messing around with. But, the thing is, I have that disconnected because I have the plugs on the power supply disconnected. So, I don't have this plugged in. This hasn't back. So, I don't know. I might be wrong about that. We're going to roll with that. I think that's what's going on. So, the yellow one is on because it hasn't been turned off by this switch. Okay. So, then we've got 24 volts DC. It's on as well. Why is it on? Same reason. So, we're getting, I guess, powers coming in here. This voltage regulator is making the 24 volts and this relay isn't pulled in. So, it's connecting and the LED is on. So, then we have 12 volts DC switch. This one isn't on. See the little line there? This one isn't on because this relay isn't pulled in. So, see how they have the lines just connected to nothing? So, this relay isn't pulled in at all. So, how does it pull in? Another one of the switches. The switch normally connected connection. And, I don't have that plug pulled in, plugged in. So, it can't turn on that relay which would turn that on. And, then the other one is, that's 12 volts DC switched. The other one is this one which is 24 volts AC. We don't have it either. That says 24 AC switch. Yeah, it's the same thing. So, since this relay isn't in, the 24 volts isn't plugged in at least to the point where it turns on the light. Let's see if it already actually exists though. Yeah, from whatever plug J3 is. Okay. So, we don't have a couple of the plugs plugged in which appears to be why two of the voltages aren't there. All right. So, I've got the other plugs in, the amplifier power, and then it says computer power. My theory is, is that the, I wonder if it says what connector that is. J7. Is that where that said it was plugging in? Yes, J7. So, since we had that turned off, we didn't even have those switches plugged in, switch signals plugged in. So, it couldn't, since we had it turned off. It's late folks. Since we had that unplugged, we didn't have those switches plugged in. So, it couldn't turn on either relay and turn on the other two voltages. So, now that I've got them plugged in, we'll turn it on and see if we pop fuses. Okay. So, here we go. Please Mr. Rockola jukebox. Don't blow up on me Mr. Rockola jukebox. I'm trying to fix you Mr. Rockola jukebox. I think it's going to burn my hand when it blows the fuse to you. Oh, we lost it, didn't we? Did we lose it? I think we lost it, but it didn't blow that main fuse. Smoke test. So, the AC is on. So, it didn't blow that fuse we were messing with. I'm literally looking for smoke. All right. So, it blew something. So, when I turned it off, the 24 volts DC light came back on and then went back out. So, I'm going to take this cover off and there are some fuses in there and let's see if any of those have blown. Okay. So, what I've done is I've shut the two switches up on the top as if the door is open. So, now when you turn it on, you don't have those two voltages, but you start getting movement from the basket. A little noisy. I wonder if it's supposed to be that noisy. I don't remember that. Typically, when they do this, they're trying to find the home position. There's nothing on the display and it's got the 12 volt switched off and the 24 volt AC off and it has correctly found home and stopped. So, what's going on? Well, I don't know. I have no clue, but it's something to do with the 12 volt switch to the 24 volt AC probably. So, you know, just trying to logically work through it. Next thing I'm going to do is go see what those power up because whatever they power up, it's not happy. Kind of seems like the computer may actually be running or some part of it to make the motor move and then control it to where it stops at the home position. So, it has to read a sensor to do that unless it's just somehow hardwired into the motor or something. So, we can look all that up on the schematics. So, we're looking at the 12 volt switched line and the 24 volt AC line. Okay, so whenever I turned it on with the amplifier plugged in, everything came up and worked. I mean, the voltage thing did the same thing. So, what I did was I unplugged everything on the computer, turned it on, all the voltages were there, and then I just plugged everything back into the computer and it seems like it's booting up now. I looked under there and there were no... So, I think we've got it. Let's turn it on and see what happens. Uh-huh. No, we don't have it. So, there's still some kind of issue. So, see how two of them are out. Oh, it might just be that I don't have the switch pulled out or something. Let's see. So, if I pull that switch out, it kills them. If I push it in, it's trying to boot. I wonder if they've got it wired backwards or if it's just because I'm messing with stuff. So, I'm going to push this one in. So, these switches, when they're in, they do one thing and when they're pulled all the way out, they do the same thing. When they're in the middle, it's another thing. That one doesn't seem to be doing anything. This one, if I just leave it be, it's letting it boot up. So, when I go to close the door... Oh, it's going to close both of them, isn't it? That's going to do that. Okay. So, let me do this one with my hand. It's going to be completely dead with the door closed. What in the hell? So, I don't know if they've got that wired backwards or what. Air is present, but that's fine. It says normally open and normally closed in the manual. You can see this foam here. Well, let's just try to close it. Actually, there's not a lock on. Let's just try to close it and see if it's going to operate. Thank you for your sacrifice, little piece of wood. Yeah. So, it actually doesn't even hit the switches. All right. Well, that makes sense. I was playing around with it too much. I was hitting switches that didn't need hit. All right. So, I guess that's it. So, the whole problem was the switch was stuck on the back and there was a fuse missing that somebody probably burnt up. You can see the gas struts there. I mean, they kind of hold it up. Kind of, kind of, kind of. We don't want it to break. But our issue is we're not going to be able to play a CD because the spindle screwed up. This is very common. So, this is a CD Pro system and the spindle, I didn't notice it earlier, but it's been broke off. There's a little, little disc thing here that has popped off. It comes off very easily. That is what centers the CD and without that, it's never going to play. So, this is what's left of it. This, I don't know if you pull that off or I need to look at the replacement one, but we need it. There's a little replacement piece that goes here that allows the CD to, to center. We can try to play something and just see if it acts like it's going to do anything. This thing doesn't hit me in the head. 0523 not available. 010. Oh, it's because I did 23. I tried to get it to play. I think we're good. It's just that Pro Player is suspect. But hey, that's as far as we can go for now. So, let me know what you think. That's a little walk through the power supply of a Rock Ola Legends jukebox. Leave your comments below and we'll see you back here next week where we'll work on that Pro Player. Hope you enjoyed it. Okay, folks, this is our Patreon special video. We've been working on this Rock Ola Legends and I just got in. When I got it, the CD Pro Player, the spindle was broke off of it, which is really common. So, if you ever get that problem, here's what you do. You go to flippers.com, John's Jukeboxes, and 3D print them. And he sells them inexpensively, so I bought five. Yeah, so that's the way to go, I think. So, I've been adjusting it. Now, it tells you in the manual how to center the CD player and also how to get the clamp working right. So, we got it. It's working pretty good. I can't put this on a CD box. If you want a CD box, this is the one you want. I used to run a route with these in it and these just were great jukeboxes. Rock Ola Legends jukebox. There you go. Hope you enjoyed the video. This is a Patreon special since YouTube doesn't like music.