Repairing The Amplifier In This Seeburg DS 160 Jukebox!

ladies and gentlemen this is Joe's jukeboxes back with another cool jukebox repair video for you this evening now five years ago we did a couple videos on this seberg ds160 jukebox the same exact one and I'm sad to say it's been sitting here for five years five years we haven't messed with it other things came up we worked on this we worked on that um and the reason that we uh haven't worked on it in so long is because uh when last we left it it had a couple little issues now we the videos that we did before were all about the torat memory unit that's in it I rewatched the videos just to uh re uh familiarize myself with it and basically we had a problem where it was giving you extra selections and uh I think we've got that fixed but now we're to the point where we need to rebuild the amp so like I said it's been sitting around a while it needs a little bit of stuff done like some of the paint touched up cosmetically and things like that but it's a it's a really cool jukebox so I figured in honor of our new channel here that maybe we'd finish this thing up so we could sell it what do you think now this particular juke box belonged to a lady named Janet and it says Janet music and game room that's pretty cool uh so let me show you what it's doing it'll play but after it's been on a while you start getting more and more of this Rumble in the in the amp I think the amp's been rebuilt before um but it's probably do to have the capacitors replaced again I don't know what they've done with it uh some of you are going to say well then why are you playing it because everybody else has played it so it's fine so let's try to play um this for instance so let's see if it'll select it and if so we've got that part ready but you'll you'll hear The Rumble in it now if they if this part goes uh dead it's because the uh uh they uh were not happy with me playing this [Applause] song okay so you hear The Rumble in it and it's slightly too slow I [Music] think all right so I don't know if it's going to let it play that but basically the thing will select now um but all of the uh the tone is there's a lot of rumbling going on and there's just too much base which we might be able to adjust but I think we're probably to the point that we need to rebuild the amp to get a better tone out of it so I haven't even looked at that yet um we've had it for years but that's the next step I think I think the selection thing let's try one more j3 I think the selector is working fine but I don't want to leave it on too long because the amp seems to get worse as you leave it on j3 j3 for sure here the [Music] hum and it's just slightly too slow so I don't know how easy that will be to adjust out but hopefully it's a belt or something okay so let's open up the back and take a look at the uh amp and uh we'll go from there so here is our amp it mounts on the back door uh appears to be a stereo amp to me um and you know 62 I think is when this was made so of course it would be the seaburg stuff they always had such a cool way of mounting everything they're they have U some of the models from around this time and a little bit later had a um pieces entire pieces that you could just easily remove and and and things like their Auto speed unit or whatever it was called um but yeah okay so I'm going to unplug everything and we'll pop this out and take it onto the work desk workbench onto my desk we'll put it where we can look at it all right folks here is the underside of the amp it's actually uh less than I was expecting I figured it would be be have more going on than this it isn't that bad um and it does look like it's been worked on at some point let me zoom in on some of it here so we've got lots of resistors couple dodes couple um disc capacitors there's an electrolytic that they didn't swap some film caps which I would think are probably fine is this a cap or a transistor three legs is some kind of transistor yeah all these film caps I think are going to be all right so here's a cap that someone has replaced at some point maybe it was a paper or an electrolytic there's another transistor here's a cap someone replaced this is actually this is actually the filter cap and they did not replace the filter cap which if you're getting a bunch of humming that would kind of be um the first thing I would assume that it's something to do with that but we shall see so one of the capacitors has a yellow wire running to it that runs over to this socket one of them has a couple of orange wires to it that runs to here and over to here I'm looking for opportunities to mount the Caps away from here really though you could get a pretty good I think I think we're going to be able to just put them right there on the you know I've got this screw here too it' be really easy to mount a terminal strip H decisions decisions decisions how do we want to do it they have been in there doing something see the solder they've screwed around with something there all right so we got all that going on that needs attention uh we've got some more electrolytic caps down here I'm going to look in the schematics and see what those do it' just be interesting to see what they chose not to replace um today in the modern you know this is 2024 that I'm recording this it's it's very uh common now to replace all the capacitors electrolytic capacitors or paper capacitors in an amp now but back in the '90s I whenever I worked on Arcade monitors for the first time it wasn't as common to replace all of the electrolytic capacitors for a while there in like the early '90s you would replace like one cap whenever you did a monitor that sounds crazy to people now but um I know a lot more about Arcade monitors than jukebox amps but we would work on U well not we it was before me but um people would there was a list actually floating around of what caps did what so basically if you're if you're Nintendo Donkey Kong if the the screen was folding over on one side is a very common problem there is one cap that makes it do that in the vertical section and so people would literally replace one capacitor with a two cent capacitor and fix the Monitor and then just keep using it and that was considered accepted practice people did that a lot okay so then it got to the point where you would put a cap kit in where um like on a Sano for instance it might have eight or nine capacitors well these are the ones that usually give problems replace those you would never replace like the filter capacitor or something like that on a monitor um and then it got to the point probably 20 years ago where it became very common for people to say not replace all of them because they're going to go bad eventually anyway but it there was a progression there so my whole point is this amp was made in 1962 this thing was probably rebuilt in the if I was just going to guess uh after talking with the customer that we got it from and knowing how long we've had it it was probably rebuilt in the '90s at some point and we may be able to tell with a date code or something on something I don't know I don't how the Caps usually don't have them but anyway it was probably rebuilt you know 30 years ago so it was rebuilt 30 years after it was made and then it's another 30 years as it went by so whenever they did it they didn't replace some of this stuff maybe they uh maybe they just felt it wasn't necessary or at the time that was what was considered uh proper or maybe these were replaced and I'm just I'm thinking that they're older than they are but yeah so from to my eyes we've got to measure all of the resistors um most of these like orange drop looking caps we're going to be able to leave just fine um we got to measure all the resistors but we we really have very few capacitors to actually change You' got three here you've got two here if we were going to change it again here's another one six seven eight so at first glance I see eight oh here's another one nine nine that to me look like there's something that you should replace and then whatever's in the filter cap I'm I'm going to guess that there's maybe looks like maybe there's four in there um so not a huge cap job but it's going to be a big deal measuring all these resistors now there's certain resistors that are more likely to go bad than others um but maybe I can figure that out by just measuring through a bunch of them and uh figuring out which ones tend to be bad on each tube all right so there's that and then also we can test the tubes I don't know if any of that is going to have any kind of bearing on a rumble in the in the um music as it's playing because it seems to me like that's probably something to do with the turntable but we need to do this first just to make sure and we don't want to burn up the amp uh playing it not knowing what kind of condition that the capacitors are in now that I've looked at it I'm not quite as worried about it but if these filter caps are original and it kind of looks like they are it might cause some issues so let's look on the top of it so if you watch the previous videos this actually joins with the the selector system with these blades here there's like a plug that plugs into it on the side we'll clean that up and here is our capacitor this should have a date code on it so it's a 40450 a 4450 a 2400 and a 2400 and 8768 9 it says H let's see if I'm reading that right oh no there we go 235 628x that's going to be the 18th week of 1962 which makes sense because this is a 1962 um amp now it could be that they restuffed the contents like new capacitors up inside this cap I don't think they did doesn't look like the me on the bottom it looks like everything's still original so we're going to we're going to leave this mounted but we're going to disconnect everything from it and put new stuff in so I need some 40 450s and some 20 400s um and all of our tubes are filthy but you know that doesn't really mean anything so we'll check those out maybe we'll break out the tube tester and see what those are like um but essentially we've just got some capacitors to replace now let's see what our tone control is looking like okay so the base is turned up to Max that's part of why it sounds the way it does and the treble is on medium so the base I want to turn it down a little bit it I've got the one at my house set like that too and the thing with it is it's fine if you've got it turned up loud so like if you've got the amp at let's say 60% um you kind of want the Bas up because it makes it Punchy and everything sounds really great but what happens is you turn the amp down to like 20% and the base just overrides everything so you you kind of need to adjust this depending on what volume level you're going to play the records at that's what I found with the one at my house this says used well I mean obviously it's used it's from 1960 I don't understand why people write things sometimes seberg stereophonic High Fidelity amplifier I know a little bit more about these than I did five years ago so hopefully it'll go a little easier for me all right so I want to look in the amp I mean in the uh schematics and just see what those capacitors that they obviously didn't change see what they're used for and see if there's a reason that their logic thought hey we don't need to replace these so I've got out the schematics here and uh I love like taking it slow and looking through the schematics as you go whenever you're rebuilding something like this because it kind of helps you understand how the thing works and you learn every time that you work on one so I'm still in that phase where I'm learning I'll probably learn the rest of my life if you look over here on the left there is a plug with three connections one goes to ground that's what that little symbol there is and then the other two one goes up here to what they calling channel one and one goes down here to what they're calling channel two well if you look they immediately go through a capacitor so you're looking for electrolytic capacitors which are usually uh what gives you trouble when they age and this one see how There's A Plus on one side it's showing you which side is the positive electrolytic capacitors are usually um polarized so one side's positive and one side's negative so if we look on this amp this is where that's coming in that's the three posts and you can see that one is connecting to ground so this is the the chassis ground right so one pin is connected directly to ground and then there's the two others right so one immediately goes through a capacitor over to here and this side immediately goes through a capacitor over to here so these are the two caps that they're showing here and here so the signal from the pickup uh playing the record runs through these two capacitors is the very first thing it does so those definitely if they haven't been replaced should be replaced um that could cause you all kinds of problems it looks like they did replace these I found in the manual here this came with it uh where they bought this jukebox in 1994 so that's when it would have last been serviced but you can just see the general dirt and things on it that's an old cap so that's probably from 94 um maybe even older but so it looks like they did replace them but it's been a long time so it's been 30 years and like I mentioned before in '94 it was like if we assume that it was capped in 94 somewhere around there the thing was about 30 years old and that that was 30 years ago so if it was time to cap it then it's kind of time to cap it again right uh so that's what those two do so let's see if we can find any of the other ones okay so so we got this one here I thought that was kind of strange that they didn't remove that one cuz that's obviously ancient electrolytic you'd think that that would have been something that they would have definitely wanted to swap whenever they did it in the 90s but if you look in the schematics uh that's this cap right here now this is the AVC section um Auto volume control basically so if it if the record is a very quiet record it will bump it up a little bit of the record is a very hot record it'll bump it down a little bit so that everything's about the same volume right um but the thing with this circuit is you don't even have to use it if you take this tube out it just gets rid of the AVC and it just plays the records as they're recorded so some of them will be louder than others uh if you got problems in that circuit though it really could screw things up and make um make uh you have sound you know muffled sound and things like that so our our problem could bead could have something to do with that but I you know probably not but maybe but we'll go ahead and replace it but this is an example of like I was saying earlier for a while it was considered that you would you didn't re really replace every capacitor you just replace specific ones that were known to cause trouble now we've gotten to the point where whenever people do a jukebox amp they pretty much replace all of the electrolytic capacitors so that's what that one does okay so these um if you look 22 microfarad 47 microfarad and 47 microfarad that's a more modern um value so in the past these would have been 20 50 and 50 or something like that and we could we know that actually by looking in the schematics so there is nothing in here that originally was 22 47 or 4 47 as far as the schematic but you do find right here that c121 was 50 c122 was 20 c12b uh was 50 so we've got a 22 a 47 and a 47 so those are more modern Replacements someone has swapped those caps at some point which makes sense uh and if you look on this it says 7250 it's probably the 50 week of 1972 doesn't mean that it was capped in 1972 it could have been done in 1994 and they just used an old capacitor and they may have tested it and it tested fine um but these three are part of the power supply so it's right here it's that one that one and that one so this is a the main Transformer the power transformer it's getting the voltage in on that Prime AR and then it's creating these secondaries right and so these three are used in the -30 and -35 volt section so anything on the amp that needs -30 or -35 will be uh using that I wonder if that's labeled on here yeah so -30 here um -30 up here of course both of the channels will be the same and then the -30 5 would be used somewhere as well I don't know somewhere so uh obviously very important are those caps screwed up probably not but I'm going to replace them anyway um they're probably doe for it again but they they're probably still fine at some point someone has swapped them but that's what those are doing it just it's kind of shocking to me that they replaced those but they didn't replace the filter capacitors so let's see if we can find those so they're actually here on the other side of the Transformer so this is the primary these are secondaries this is a rectifier tube and see how it says 120 a b c and d That's our four values that are inside of that capacitor that uh can um they did such a clean job with this cap kit it almost makes me wonder if they restuffed the can but it doesn't look like they did um but I can't really get in there I don't I don't know I don't know what they did but we're definitely going to swap those those are just begging to cause problems so we're definitely swapping those so if you look on the schematics right after we go through that initial capacitor there is a transistor here and then on one leg of the transistor there is a cap that was a 50 micro farad capacitor um back in the day one on each side and that is this one so that that's the original one right there probably from way back in the day but on this side they actually replaced it so it's kind of weird that they only did one side but whatever 50 volts and 47 microfarad all right so both of those we will definitely replace as well that's a very common cap it's easy to get those all right the only other one that jumps out that they've obviously replaced is this one which is strange because that was originally a myar cap and I believe that is actually cap c104 which just happens to be a labeled a 104 as well because it's a 0.1 uh microfarad capacitor so and and since it's a stereo unit you know that side is just like this side so the cap over here that that correlates to that is this one and they didn't replace it so must have somehow tested it and knew that it wasn't quite right um and you can see it on the schematics right here it's either that one or it's this one these stereo ones are fun to work on because you can compare side to side they should be pretty much the same on both sides they're doing the exact same thing um when you're playing a record though the input on a stereo record is different you know you may have more volume on the left than the right or there may be a drum pounding on the left and it's not on the right or just depending on how it's mixed so you get different signals in which changes some of your voltages and things where or not identical um if you're trying to test things while a record's playing um but it's actually a pretty simple amp so if you if you think about what we just looked at they basically have replaced the capacitors in the power supply section they didn't these for whatever reason but we're going to so you're replacing all the P capacitors in the power supply section and then there was one cap in the um in the ABC section and then there are there is a cap a couple caps at the beginning of each Channel and that's kind of it the other ones are not electrolytic they're film caps myar caps so it's actually a simple little design so we're going to swap over some of those caps and the main one is that filter cap that they have never uh redone we definitely need to get that done before it starts burning up something your your problem with that is if you if you're not getting a good filter you can literally start burning up Transformers and everything else and plus if your voltages are wildly off um if you're running too high of a voltage on the tubes you can burn them up if you're running too low of a voltage the bias might be off so much that it causes problems there's just all kinds of crap that can happen so you kind of need to get everything uh working up to spec but the the not not only the capacitors you also need to go through and check the resistors to see if any of them are way out of tolerant um you know most of them are are spec to be within 20% or so of whatever the value is so if it's 100 ohm it shouldn't be more than 120 or less than 80 um so you you really need to check that too if you get that and your caps so if your caps are new and you get your resistors intolerance and you still have voltages that are wildly off it could be that You' got a short in a tube or something um but you can figure that out with a tube tester so and it everything doesn't have to be exact but you want it as close to the specs that they've got listed as possible so that's what you're aiming for and once you get it to that you're going to get it closer to how the engineers designed it so it's going to sound better okay folks so here's what we've got so far um the big fat one I replaced now some of these I used um axial radial caps instead of axial caps just cuz is what I got in um you it's not really that big of a deal on the bottom of the cabinet and if you look they did the same thing with all of their little orange drops I mean look at that that's Factory that's why there's a clip there right so I don't want to hear no crap you can do it better if you if you don't like it when you do yours do it better so we replaced those two and that one um the two on the end in now one of the ways that I do it is I cut off the old leg and then just hook the new leg around it now why would you do that so that you don't overheat this if this fails and falls off of this strip you're in big trouble right so it might be a better idea to just work on the the old leg um so that you don't have that problem I try not to solder directly to the tube sockets either just because there's only some many times you can do that before the thing starts falling apart um replace the three down here the same way I actually had a couple axial for those of you that care and then of course the biggest part was this filter cap so I removed everything little by little and put in a terminal strip here which I actually drilled a hole and mounted it with screws but that will actually uh you'll have a ground post there where the screw goes through you're grounding it to the chassis but you don't know for sure that that's going to hold and unlike the filter caps you kind of want to make sure that they're grounded so the the two you can't see them now because I've got the resistors in the way but the two uh screws I actually have a wire soldered to them as well and over to this ground wire that was soldered to the ground on the can it just daisies along and gives ground to all this as well and then I've got the four caps mounted um to the terminal strip and then the four resistors that I had mounted to the terminal strip and then there's one two three four five six wires that I had to move over too so it really it took a lot of trouble I am really surprised though that they didn't replace that before because it's kind of the most important thing to replace um maybe they were able to test it and it was still fine but the you know the filter cap is your your main thing that's going to cause you a bunch of problems if you uh if you're running with a worn out capacitor so I need to go through now and check resistors I did check the four that I swapped over and they were all still within spec um but I'm going to go through and check the rest of them um just to see if we've got any other problems and replace what needs done and then we'll test the tubes it took probably two hours to do this um these ones were obviously very easy um this took about an hour by itself to do just because it's you got to do it one by one move it over just to make sure that you don't get something in the wrong spot but I think we're good and we can go from there I don't like that wire on the resistor that's probably not good get that down away from that sand resistor so it doesn't burn it up um okay so um yeah let me start checking resistors and we'll see if any of these are out of spec well I can't find any resistors that are far enough out of spec to replace um there's they're all within 5 or 10% this one here it looks like they replaced whenever they recapped it before that's a newer one so I thought for sure maybe on this side the one that complements it um would be messed up but it's not it's within spec so um I can't find any of them that need to be replaced so got off easy there um all right so now we need to check the tubes and see if they're all kind of within tolerance I've got a tube tester here that's not the greatest one but it'll work so um let me get in out and we'll run through the tubes and see if everything seems all right with those okay so this is an Old Mercury 301 tester uh that I bought on eBay whenever I first started screwing around with these um since then I've got probably six or seven other tube testers um somebody sent me a message the other day wanting to know if they could buy one of them but I'd rather not because then I I mean I'd sell it here at my shop but I I don't really want to ship things um and you know they're all over the place you can get them everywhere anyway um we're going to do the 5 u4 first I already did it actually but when I went to put it in the the socket is screwed up it doesn't have the little guide you know there's a key so that you can't put it in wrong right it's missing off of that one I don't know what they did I'll show you here in a second so I had to go back and watch the video and look how it was situated in the in the uh amp on the video and uh but it was pretty obvious because I could see the getter the getter on the video um so I was able to put it right back how it was so if you this is just a I guess it's a rectifier um and it tests good on both of the tests that you're supposed to run on it um but let me show you the bottom so you can see what I'm talking about so the the key is missing somehow I don't know it's just broke see the plastic see how there's something missing in the middle there so that piece is broken off so after after finding how it went on the video I stuck it back in the amp the way it was and then I drew a line where the uh key is and if you look on here they've got the rivets lined up with the line um and also on the but anyway this one's good so no problems there all all right so looking at the schematics that capacitor that we replaced that I was saying was in the ABC section the v109 so I'm testing the tubes and I'm testing v101 half of it's used over here and half of it's used over here in the I guess this is the preamp section that's what that sticker is that says used it's over the socket for the ABC tube so they they removed the ABC tube so that's just disabled so that explains why they didn't feel that necessary to replace that cap they're not even using it so um interesting it does say here in the schematics that if you don't want to use the ABC just pull the tube out so it was acceptable back then uh okay so I've got this and I've tested both of the uh the settings on it and we get a pretty good result out of it nothing great uh both tests perform about like that so for for the the old tubes that I'm always testing that's pretty typical I mean I don't get any that Pegg this sucker we're always in through here if it's a good tube so that's about as good as I ever come across usually so I'm cleaning these off a little bit and putting it back in the amp the the risk you run cleaning them is that you wipe the um the labeling off of it of course which I'm sure all of you know about if you know anything about tubes U but I'm wiping them down a little bit just to clean it up a little bit and putting them back where they go all right so this is our first $71.99 what a beautiful little tube it's got good glow at least right let's test this socker on it's first test it has two well that one proved me wrong about the other thing so it's actually performing a little better than usual and then on this one you can check for a leak between G1 and G2 by rotating this to X3 no short so we're good all right so um let me test the other one while I got it set up for this all right so this isn't good so I'm doing the F the both of the 71 55s um 7199 tested fine on both settings uh so I'm doing the first 6973 and I've got a little bit of a glow on the uh this short indicator so this thing's got either some leakage or a short in it so what I'm going to do is swap in one of the other ones just to see if it's just on this tube or if uh this tester is just doing that on all of the 69 73s I've checked I've got everything set right um but I can't even test it if it's got a short because it's going to uh short obviously so let me try another one and uh see if I'm getting this on multiples all right so tube number two I'm getting the same thing 457 e3a four five 7 e 3 a hm yeah it does not like the 69 73s which I wouldn't think there'd be a they're probably just leaking it's probably not a complete short it's just leakage um because you heard the things were working um those are both from the same channel I kept them separate um on the table so maybe that Channel's got some problems or had some problems uh okay let me move on and check another I can't even test them though if it's leaking you screw up the tester um let me try another one all right so I am now up to I have tested eight different 6973 is on it and they all do that so I I Googled it because you know the internet is your friend and uh Google is saying some people on forums are saying that oh all of their 69 73s do that too they're saying that it's probably the way that the testers design because they said that there's two G2 Connections in the 6973 that are shorted together so it's it's probably just reading that as a short so I think on on this particular tube you can ignore that another gentleman said that on a power tube that it uh the way that the amplifiers are designed usually it doesn't cause noise whenever there's a short in it or leakage in it um so I went ahead and tested a few of them these are ones that I had laying around that aren't very good and so they don't test all that great the ones over here are testing a little better which are the ones that are in the seaburg so I think we're all right on the tubes um I you know most of this noise like I was saying uh earlier I believe is turntable noise turntable Rubble or it could have been those filter caps but I think we're about ready to actually pop it back in the juke box and just see if it sounds any different with the filter caps replaced like that all right so I've installed them all back in and two of them were slightly weaker than the other two so I put two that were similar test similar measurements in one channel and the two that were lower in the other channel which means one channel I guess would be a little worse but um there's a balance adjustment on this um and it's Push Pull so I would assume assume that it'd be better off if one channel if they're matched than than having one test higher than the other but you know what do I know so that's my thoughts though okay so we're going to slide it back in and make sure everything still works and I didn't blow anything up by putting a resistor in the wrong spot and um we'll go from there this one thing I don't like about this is the since you have to attach it to that other uh uh case that's in there you can't really get to the back of it to test voltages and stuff if I had some of those little tube sockets that or like tester sockets where they've got wires sticking out so you can use a meter on it but I don't have a good way of testing uh voltages at any point in it so I don't really like that you know it'd be it'd be cool if I could see what these power supply voltages are um but you can't get to the back of the amp installed in the machine so I have to think about that a little bit okay so I've installed it back in this is how they've got the speakers I put them back exactly how they had it uh it's very confusing though so you've got three wires black red and blue that actually go to a crossover or some kind of crossover right there so they're connected up on the top and they got this little thing here set to yes be sure to set this switch correctly when equipment is installed are twin speakers our twin stereo speakers in use without jumpers between vc1 and ground in the same room as the phonograph what am I seeing in the am I seeing smoke there that's I think it's just cob frightening whole thing's kind of dirty uh okay so who knows right and so they had them hooked up like this but it's kind of off so they've got the red wire going to pin four but it's not really pin four that means 4 ohm of one channel and then they've got the black wire going to 16 ohm of one channel which would be a difference of 8 ohms I guess yes if it'll even work like that uh and then over here they've got you know the red if if maybe that's the common I don't know see where it says red that doesn't denote on this strip it's talking about this strip that should be red and that should be blue there's a blue over here all right but they've got the blue on four so four to four maybe they're thinking is eight and then four to 16 um is 12 I don't I don't know what they're doing so anyway and then they've got one these two speaker wires the reason that they have new uh wiring for that is because those are the directional signal wires here and here those only worked originally on the 33 and A3 records it was just the way the thing was designed so what they've done is they've straight wired them into the terminal strip as if they're external speakers so this is all fairly confusing but that's what they're doing so here they have them connected between 1 ohm and 12 ohm I'm sorry 1 ohm and uh 8 ohm and then here this is actually the ground and 8 ohm so you know I don't know but that's how they had it hooked up so we're going to leave it like that so I'm going to turn turn it on and we'll see if anything burns up hopefully not especially with me sitting here it's moving the carriage I wonder if there's a selection on the tour mat or if it just does that when you turn it on do you see anything burning up do you see any smoke everything looks good all right so I'm going to try my Beach Boys record that I was playing I don't know if you I don't know if I played that on here but it was kind of rumbly sounding so my theory is that the the the you know that the base was turned up pretty high I turned it back down to medium and then also the uh I think there's some rumble going on with something going on with the turntable that we might be able to fix so let's see if it sounds any better if it cuts this off it's just YouTube doesn't want me to play anything [Music] you hear that kind of Rumble in it so that's still there but not as [Music] bad everything looks cool nothing's burning up it sounds pretty good but there you can hear that Rumble the whole time [Music] so turn up the [Music] volume so the directional speakers you don't hear it [Applause] [Music] in it's almost entirely down here so it's just a Basse sound that's [Applause] rumbling so another problem is that all of the records skip at the exact same spot which would definitely be some kind of turntable [Music] issue it's like a remix all right folks so that's it for today we we got the amp caps replaced so I don't have to worry about running the thing with out you know with with fear of uh burning the mech or burning the uh amp up we know it's not going to burn up it's been recapped everything should be cool but we still have issues so next time we'll work on the turntable a little bit I'll see if I can do some research and see what if turntable noise what would cause that to get into the amp which it sounds to me like it's what it is um and then we'll also uh figure out why it's skipping at the same location on each record about 2third of the way through the record it'll skip I've tried three different records and it doesn't um and we may have an issue with the way they've got it wired with the uh speakers so we might have to research into that on the schematics and see what they're doing with that crossover that's down there so I hope you enjoyed it we'll see you on the next one