I got schooled by 7x World Cup winner Tomoa Narasaki

Japan has the strongest bouldering team in the world. They've been dominating the international competition scene over the last decade, leaving everyone else in the dust. Leading the pack is Tomoa Narasaki, the rock star of Team Japan, known for his wild climbing style, with countless World Cup victories under his belt. So exactly what is it that the Japanese are doing differently that makes them so superior? In hopes of solving this mystery, I went to Tomoa Narasaki's private home gym myself to see what is going on behind closed doors. It's incredible how big this place is. First, we're just going to show you guys the facility, how it looks like, because this is insane. And these guys are probably the strongest couple in the world. Tomoa, you won the last Bouldering World Cup in China. That was like a week ago or something. This is the first wall. This is the bouldering wall. Yeah, we have three disciplines. This is the bouldering wall and they have the lead and speed wall. How hard would you say in grade? Grade? It's hard with the difficulty with the grade, no? What's the grade like? It's the same grade with the semi-final or final simulation. Okay, 8A, V11, V12? V12. I think it's V14. V14. You heard it from them too. It's not only me. The grades in the World Cup are actually wrong, guys. They're V14. It's not like what they say in the live stream. And then, the craziest part here is that they actually have a lead wall and a speed wall. But keep in mind, this is a private facility. You even have a lift. That's crazy. Most gyms don't have a lift. But they have a lift to set with and a huge one too. Look at that platform up there. And this is 18 meters? Yes. What is the easiest route on this wall? 8A. 8A is the easiest route on. So if this was a normal gym, no one would be able to do anything basically. And then the speed. Yes. What's your time tomorrow in speed? 5.7. That's good. I'm almost the same. 12 seconds. Tomoya is already qualified for the Olympics. You were one of the first people to be qualified, no? Yes. Yeah, easy. Now, let's go and look. This is not it. Like, there's way more. So peaceful out on the countryside in Japan. Oh my god, that's such a good spray wall. Look at that. Just climbing up that wall using all the holds. And these boulders you've set, right, Tomoya? Yes. Specifically for today. This is like comp style, I guess, right? Yes. Yeah. Technical setup and the dynamic coordination. Coordination? Yeah. This is insane. Tomoya's home gym. Like, very exclusive access. I've got to say, this is like the craziest gym I've ever seen. This is like, this would be like a big commercial gym. They have it just to themselves. It's insane. I want this too. So this is where you warm up? This is a mean machine. Look at this, guys. Stretch machine. Okay, so I put my leg here, one there. And that. Oh, that feels good. Okay, so you do this. Yes. That feels good. Also this. Oh, nice. Is it good for the knees, though? For this, for the hips and everything? Feels very awkward. Can I see you do this? Can you do the splits? Oh, Akio's good in the splits. Now you're going to see the flexibility. Oh, wow. This machine doesn't work for you. You have to get further back. What else do you have in here? There's weights too. Do you do a lot of weights? Oh, okay. Like deadlift? Yes. Oh, wow. But you think this is only good for speed? Or is it good for bouldering also? Good for bouldering. Bouldering also? Yes. Okay. Core strength. Do you have any warm-up boulders on the wall? Or are we going to go straight on the competition boulders like that? The spray wall? Okay, warm-up on the spray wall. So this is a warm-up wall. How does it feel today? Do you feel tired? Do you feel good? A little bit tired. Because you came right from the World Cup, right? Yes. How's your skin today, Tomoa? Oh, it's very good. That's crazy. I've never seen a pro climber with that good skin. Normally, or every time, tape and stuff, you know. Japanese people might have strong skin. That's such a good, like it's such an advantage in climbing to have good skin. And by good skin, we don't mean in the face, but the fingers. There we go. The plane has taken off. It's so cool to see him climbing, really. It looks like you're weightless when you climb, you know. It looks like you weigh zero kilos, like flying. Akiyo has also won bouldering. How many bouldering World Cups have you won, Akiyo? 21. She's won 21 World Cups. Crazy. Climbing is pretty unique because the level, like between women and men, it's not, I mean, there is a difference, but not like that big of a difference. I think Akiyo would beat like 99.99% of all men out there, which is very unique and like a pretty cool thing about climbing. So which one do you think is easiest of these? Red one. Red one is easiest? Or green one. Green one, okay. Okay, let's see. Oh god, so easy. Okay. Okay, easy for you. Do you set a lot of boulders? Yes. Yeah, you like it? Because not always good climbers are good setters, but you seem like you're a good setter, you know. These look beautiful. Jump up to this and then right foot, right, left, and right, jump. I'll put an extra screw, a little bit heavier. He's trying to psych me out. Okay, let's see. Come on. Oh, I did it. And then, yeah, jump. Oh my god, I can't believe I did that. Yeah, thank you. That was a nice boulder, yeah. I thought I wouldn't do a single one today, but it's just him being nice, you know. He said something that we can both do. These ones look so much harder. So you try this with approach shoes and then it was okay, but climbing shoes is more difficult. Difficult. More difficult. Yeah, that's the thing on slabs sometimes. Sometimes approach shoes just work better. And then you go out to this or? I think no hand. No hand, okay. He's so surprised he's not doing this. In competitions, would this be your style or anti-style? I like this style. You like this style? Because this style is very technical. Yes. And when I think of you, I think more powerful, dynamic. Nice. Very good. Nice, come on. Yeah, nice. Good job. Yes. Easy. Difficult. This is important. Yes. Like squeezing. You pull, okay. Yes. It's so cool to be here because I feel like what you guys do is like a little bit mystical. You're the best team in the world, you know. Japan is the strongest climbers. And everyone is like wondering what are the Japanese doing. So it's really cool to be here. I feel like this is like being on the inside of some like mystery to people, you know. Because Japanese team is super strong. Okay, so you think that's the secret? Yes. So this is the technique that's different. Makes me a little bit nervous to climb with Samoa. He's watching me, I get a little bit like... Okay, I'll just try the upper part. Oh my gosh, this is... Trusting that foot. Yes. It's very difficult. No, it's very difficult. The top is very hard. Red one? Yeah. So this is one of the easier, you said, right? I think. This is a different style though. Start here, feet. Just one hand and one hand here or one hand... Two hands, okay. Strange start. Look easy for you. Very easy. Every time before I get on, they put in extra screws. I use this, I'm like a heavy Norwegian, but that's okay. It breaks my confidence a little bit, I gotta say, but it's okay. You like stiff shoes or soft shoes? Yeah, me too. I also like soft. But for this, maybe it's better with stiff. Do you think in World Cups and stuff, do you have two pairs of shoes when you go out? One stiff, one shoes? Yes. Okay. Nice. And now foot all the way up there. Black one. Yes, yes, yes, yes. Come on, come on, come on. Come on. That is such a high foot. I think the balance is really good. The balance is good? Okay, thank you. I think I need more stretching. Maybe I need to get your machine, you know? Is this blue off? This is no, off. It's off, yeah. The only good hold on the wall. Of course, it's off. So, you think this one is the hardest one? I think. Start, then push. Oh, wow. And, oh, turn around. I'm excited to see this. Oh my god. That's crazy. Come on. Come on, come on. Come on, man. Yeah, nice. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Oh my god. So, so easy for you. Competition style. Yes. Yeah, very competition style. Yes. But sometimes on this, it's better no chalk, right? Yes, no chalk. But you need chalk later, so. So, you jump in one foot, and then this. Close. I think it works. Yeah, yeah. Wow. Change, change direction, yeah? Yes, yes. It's so slippery. Scary. Oh, very scary. I like it. Come on. You can do it. Oh, it's very scary to trust the feet, yeah. Is there something I can do different, you think? I've been thinking, this may be more friction. And then, land foot, and here at the same time. Yes, yes. That's a very nice bowler. So, when is the next World Cup for you? Next is Salt Lake City. Salt Lake City, wow. Is it difficult with the jet lag? You're always traveling. Then we have another World Class climber. Speed, speed climber. Yeah. The best in Japan in speed climbing? People are so humble here in Japan. But there are a lot of good climbers climbing here. Or is it only you guys? Sorato also climbs here. Okay. Come on. I think I just need to be more brave, you know? So, more close to the wall. And he was also saying when you were climbing, you probably can still compete. Like, he says you can definitely compete. I can still compete. I don't think so. He says there's a lot of this type of body position related problems. And you seem really solid on them. So, he thinks that at the moment, at least you could probably do it, he says. That's also a difference though that he gave me beta, you know? He gave me... I know how to do it because I see him first. Thank you. It was your advice that helped me, you know? That was a confidence boost, yeah. And you guys have a YouTube channel as well. You do YouTube, right? Yes. It's in Japanese, but you have subtitles in English. Yes, English subtitles. You guys should definitely check out their YouTube channel. Also, make sure that you follow Tomoa and Akio and everyone on Instagram. And I'll see you next time. Thank you so much, man. Thank you.