About my garden I live on the edge of USDA zone 6b/7a We have hot and humid summers and cold winters with occassional snow and ice storms. Everything that appears tropical and is in a container goes indoors or to a greenhouse for the winter. The plants in the ground stay in the ground all year. The massive palms are faux planted in their containers to keep from blowing over, they all go to a greenhouse during the winter.
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J R Peters Inc (52064) Jacks Classic No.4 20-20-20 All Purpose Fertilizer https://amzn.to/3500HCF
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Video Summary
AI Generated
Jeff demonstrates how to repot and care for a tropical hibiscus, challenging standard potting norms by advocating for larger containers to better manage water needs. He provides comprehensive guidance on soil selection, fertilization, sunlight requirements, and managing bloom cycles to ensure long-term plant health and recovery from stress.
You know, things can't always be perfect.
Hey, what's up garden friends?
Jeff here, it's me, doing well, I'm great.
One day for the next three weeks
where I can film a bunch of videos
to come out during the week, so that's today.
And yesterday we had a little tornado, microburst,
no one's really sure, blow through here
and it just, it messed some things up.
Made an opportunity though to pull the furniture out
and really get the ground clear over here, so that's good.
Had some damage, but nothing too bad at all.
So thankful for that.
There's lots of background noise
cause everybody's outside working on fixing things up.
Like I said, nobody was hurt.
Oh, I just happened to hit record
as soon as my neighbor decided to use their power washer.
Need a pot to set my pot on top of.
Okay, I need to repot a hibiscus.
50 seconds in, hadn't even said the whole point
of the dang video.
So yesterday, this palm tree was blown over
right on top of one of my favorite hibiscus here.
It has some damage, but we're gonna press forward anyways
because this needs to be done.
Here's the pot, look at that.
I found this in my attic.
Listen, put this next to my mic.
You hear that?
It's foam.
Y'all remember the foam pots from the like 2000s era?
Yeah, and it's pretty, I like it.
That's a good enough looking pot, it'll do.
Well, here's the hibiscus we're working with.
Oh, this is the perfect size pot too.
So I should say, I'm speaking specifically,
hibiscus rosa sinensis.
You pick up a tropical hibiscus from your big box store.
Maybe you thought you'd grow it as an annual
and then had it around for a while and said,
hey, maybe I'd like to keep this around.
This video might be for you
because you'll want to repot them.
It's a good idea.
I waited a while to pot mine up.
You know, usually you want to do this around May.
The only downside to this container
is I would actually like for this to be a smidge bigger.
Here we go.
A nice, well-drained, organically rich potting mix.
It's a spider out here, it's about to start moving.
I was like, you know what?
That seems like a jerk move to fill this up with soil
where there's a spider running around inside of there.
Okay, so he's out.
Hibiscus, let me get to the point here.
Oftentimes, people used to say
to not overpot your hibiscus,
and I used to agree with that,
but I've noticed over the years
that my hibiscus typically have their best growth
when I go ahead and just go for it.
These are such thirsty plants,
so as long as you're doing this
when you have nice, warm temperatures, not a big deal.
Go ahead and bump them up
to whatever size container you want to.
I know that that's off, that's not the normal advice,
but we used to always say
the one to two inch outside diameter thing,
and sometimes that's just BS.
Yeah, when you're working with warm temperatures,
you can get away with things differently.
I think that's good.
I don't want it up too high.
I want to be able to give this plant
a considerable drink without water
spilling over the top and losing soil.
It's actually probably perfect right here.
So this is in a 12-inch pot right now,
and it's going up to,
I believe this is an 18-inch container.
Might be a 20, that might be a 20-inch pot.
I think it probably is a 20-inch pot, yeah.
And that's fine.
It's going to enjoy that.
I could go even bigger, as I said,
but I don't think that's necessary.
Hibiscus typically do not want their roots
to be messed with very much,
but if they're really root-bound,
then go ahead and do what you need to do.
I'm just giving this a very gentle tickle,
just very lightly touching the sides
so the roots come out, and that's it.
That's all that's going to need for those roots.
Double-check that height again
and see if that looks about right.
I think it's good.
You can't even see what I'm doing, can you?
There we go, yeah.
So it's going to be down about, I'd say, an inch.
That's, you know, pretty standard.
See the thing about hibiscus,
pretty much all of them,
whether it's a Rosasinensis or not,
they like moisture.
They want a lot of moisture,
and they let you know very quickly
when they're not getting what they need.
It becomes apparent.
Once it's in that nursery container,
it's much harder to keep it hydrated,
so bumping up into a larger container,
it just makes life a lot easier.
Don't get me wrong.
You, of course, can keep your hibiscus
in its little nursery pot for the entirety of the summer
if you want to when you pick them up,
but they're going to do a lot better
when you move them inside,
if you're going to move them inside,
if you've repotted them,
and they're going to have a lot more growth
if you repot them too,
especially if you do it when you should,
which is, you know, right around May, June,
when it's nice and warm where I live,
that's probably the best time to do it
because then it gives them a few weeks
to settle into their mix and everything,
and then they can put some roots out
and really put on a sizable amount of growth.
Not bad.
Now that I'm about halfway up the pot,
a little bit further than that, actually,
probably three quarters of the way up,
I'm going to add in a continuous release,
something that has got some nitrogen in it,
low on phosphorus, not too much potassium either.
Hibiscus do not want much phosphorus in their fertilizers,
so be careful with that,
using blooming fertilizers and those things.
They don't like it.
It might increase your bloom yield for a little while,
but ultimately it tends to cause more harm than good.
The hibiscus gains pretty good.
I actually, the Jax Classic Petunia Feed,
they really seem to enjoy that with the liquid feed.
This just helps keep their growth nice and green,
doesn't do much to encourage flowering,
but by having just things balanced and healthy,
you should have a nice plant that's going to flower a lot.
That's what I'm trying to say.
There's a lot of distractions today.
Of course, the one day I have to do a bunch of filming
is also going to be the day
after my yard gets blown away,
so I'm frazzled trying to keep up
with all the different tasks.
Hibiscus, keep them wet, all right?
They need to drain, but don't let them dry out.
Just a little, they can dry out a little bit.
Sometimes they're just going to drop dead,
but if you really want to get good growth
out of these plants, keep them moist.
They like the moisture and consistent fertilizing,
so if they have that hibiscus gain down there,
that's great stuff.
However, that is a continuous release
and it's more of an organic type fertilizer.
It takes a while to break down and actually do anything,
so I will still be hitting this
with the synthetic every single week,
and I'm using that, the Jax Classic Petunia Feed.
That's a good one, but really just an all-purpose
synthetic fertilizer is usually just fine for these guys.
Just want to have that nice, green, healthy-looking foliage.
See, these leaves are kind of limp right now.
Now, the soil didn't feel dry.
That's usually what I would associate
with these limp leaves.
However, this did have a palm tree laying on top of it
for several hours yesterday,
so that could have something to do
with those limp leaves, too.
I also think it's useful to go ahead
and pot up your hibiscus
because it makes it a lot easier to fertilize.
Those containers that they're in,
they're so tight that when I water them,
a lot of that water just splashes out the top.
I have to water them very slowly.
Fertilizer, I gotta do it very slowly,
and if for some reason I need to treat this with anything,
forget about it in those smaller containers.
Everything's just easier if you go ahead
and bump them up into something that's nice and big
that they can handle.
Don't go too big if you only have a few weeks
before it's time to move your plant inside.
Right, I think it's good to have
at least probably, I'd say, six to eight weeks
at the minimum for your plant to adjust to its new pot
before you're going to move it inside.
Again, going back to, you probably should have done this,
which is much earlier in the year.
Yeah, there we go.
And again, back to that potting mix.
Organically rich, way to do it.
Needs to drain really well.
Don't put them in something that's really heavy and mucky.
These are really prone to rotting out
during the winter months when they're indoors,
so try and keep them in something
that is lofty and drains well.
Is there a flower in here?
There we go, yeah.
Let's look at the good side where you can see the flower.
This difference in growth, it's insane
when you put these in a pot
versus leaving them in a nursery container.
Or go ahead and put them into a larger container.
Think about how often people take hibiscus,
use the centerpiece in a very large planter.
Maybe you see that more at resorts and in cityscapes
and things like that, very large pottery.
Those hibiscus usually, not always,
but usually grow pretty well and get very big.
Smaller pot, not really the same thing.
This will outgrow this pot by the end of next summer.
It'll be good in here for a year, easily.
Yeah, that shouldn't be too much of an issue.
Yeah, in a nutshell, you can ignore
that one to two inch diameter thing
when you're repotting your hibiscus,
as long as, right, as long as it's nice and warm
and they're getting everything they really want,
which is gonna be a good amount of sun,
though I do like mine to have afternoon shade.
We're out here in a paved area
and sometimes the afternoon sun can be too much for them.
But warmth, warmth and light and moisture,
they'll root out in those containers
within three to four months
and really put on a good amount of size,
depending on your type.
This one right here is a Sealy Tinney.
Tinney, I don't know how you actually say that name.
It doesn't ever put on a massive proportion.
It's one that maintains a really nice growth habit.
So this isn't like some of my others,
like if I were to just plant a Mr. President
or the El Capitan, those, they get really big,
really, really fast, but they also get kinda leggy.
This is meant to have more of a compact growth habit to it.
But I mean, you can see, it's a nice looking plant.
So I figured the best thing to do for this
to really have it for a long time
and have a nice, healthy plant for years to come
is to pot it up while I still have a couple of months left
for the plant to adjust and yeah,
get rooted in there before going inside.
I would not do this if I didn't have at least,
like I said, six, eight weeks,
probably two months before moving it inside.
I want six to eight weeks of nice warm temperatures
for the plant to adjust to its pot.
Minimum, ideally more than that,
because having too much excess soil
that the plant isn't rooted into,
it's just the kiss of death.
They will potentially rot
because they don't have roots in that surrounding area
where that moisture is gonna collect
and it just sits there
and you get a lot of anaerobic stuff going on.
So yeah, you wanna give the plant time
for it to move its roots into that fresh potting mix
and yeah, they'll be good.
Pretty tough plants.
Indoors, that's a whole nother thing.
I've talked about indoor care with hibiscus plenty of times.
That's one of the reasons I wanted to get this potted up now
and didn't wanna wait any later
because I definitely wanna take this one inside
where I'll get to have it for many months inside,
enjoy some flowers on it
and then mostly just battle spider mites and mealybugs
for the entire winter time.
It's fun.
Like I said though, it's a nice looking plant.
Wanted to give it the best shot that I could.
That hibiscus gain, it's a good fertilizer.
I've used plenty of other hibiscus fertilizer
and I've never really been disappointed in any of them,
but I also use the synthetic too,
so it's hard to say what's doing what, right?
But hibiscus gain, it seems to be a good product.
Yeah, haven't had any issues with it.
Good brand.
I don't always deadhead my hibiscus.
That's a little thing people always ask me about.
You can.
Go ahead if you want to,
but typically mine do end up getting deadheaded
because I send these flowers over here to my iguana
and my tortoise.
They enjoy eating them.
It's the sixth plane in the last hour.
You done?
This is the side that needs that recovery.
Yeah.
Also, if you have a plant that's really stressed,
get them hydrated.
Don't just repot them.
This is hydrated, so it was one of those things
where I was like, I should just probably go ahead
and just do it.
Just rip the bandaid off.
It just got smashed.
Get it into a new container.
That way it can recover.
If I need to do a cut back,
it's going to be doing that into a fresh potting mix,
so cutting it back sends that auxin back down
and encourages new root tips
and you end up with, you know,
a nice bushy plant fairly quickly, actually.
They adjust really fast.
Get them up on drip if you can.
Oh my goodness.
Hibiscus grow so fricking fast
if you can get them on drip irrigation.
This will be on drip,
and I would hope to see,
even though this is not a hibiscus
that necessarily gets that really long, quick growth to it,
like I said with some of the others,
this should put on, I would hope,
another foot of growth easily
by the end of this growing season,
and it just has this fresh flush right here,
so hopefully it'll keep doing that to about a pure.
I'm hoping to have a shrub that's a good
three and a half to four feet tall here in a few months.
Making sure that it's getting afternoon shade
helps with that for me and all my pavement
and things get really toasty out here.
Full day sign keeps them blooming.
If yours aren't blooming,
they might not be getting enough sun.
If there's really long stems
without a lot of leaves in there,
maybe not getting enough sun.
They do need a good amount of light
to keep them flowering properly,
and something that I don't think gets talked about enough
is that when you buy a hibiscus,
they're typically going to,
I'm talking, again, tropical hibiscus specifically,
they're probably going to bloom for you just abundantly
that first season you have them.
Then you'll notice that they're not doing that anymore,
and you're thinking, oh, what did I do wrong?
You didn't do anything wrong.
These are pumped full of hormones
before they're shipped out
because the nurseries and the Lowe's
and Home Depots and Walmarts,
they want these plants to have flowers on them.
They sell better when they have flowers on them.
That's the same reason where I live,
but you almost never see a crepe myrtle
for sale at the nurseries here
until late June into July
when they're starting to bloom,
which isn't ideal
because we live in a marginal place for them.
It gets pretty cold here,
so we need to plant our crepe myrtles in like April,
but the nurseries don't get them in until later than that.
They're not usually put up on the availabilities
for the nurseries until the plants
are about ready to bloom
because they sell faster that way.
So, you know, don't fret
if your hibiscus and the blooms
start to just seem fewer and further between.
That's actually probably just a very healthy plant
that isn't, you know,
doing the thing with all the hormones
and they go through flushes, right?
So this one hasn't bloomed much for me
in the last two to three weeks
because it was resting.
It was in a rest phase
and now it's absolutely covered in buds right now
and it's just started opening up again
for another big flush of flowers.
Maybe, maybe something to consider
when not to repot them
would be if you have a whole bunch of buds
that are looking like they're just getting ready to open,
I don't know, over here on the yoder.
No, the yoder's a tough one.
That's not a good example.
Neither is that one.
If you have a lot of buds that look like this,
that are just one day away from blooming,
then maybe I'd hold off, right?
All of these right here,
these have another several days to a week to go.
Didn't have to disturb the root mass very much.
Worst case scenario,
you've set yourself back
by about maybe a month with flowering
and that's if they were ready to go
and you've disrupted that flush
and then they're gonna have to recover,
rest, and set out a new flush.
It's worth it in the long run
because you're gonna put the bigger, stronger,
and healthier plants.
It'll produce more flowers,
just maybe not all at the same time,
but usually more consistently with the flowers
once you've established them.
Ugh, and scale.
The scale gets bad with these sometimes.
That's something to watch out for.
But that's all indoor care stuff.
They can get it outdoors,
but I don't typically deal with a lot of pets outdoors.
It's more when things come inside.
And plant number seven.
I'm gonna wrap it up.
Hope everybody's doing well.
Have a great day.
Great landscapes.
It's absolutely beautiful for you.
Let me know.
Tips, tricks, suggestions,
some things to do with your potting mixes.
There's lots of things you can add to them.
I do usually like to add a couple handfuls of compost,
which I probably will end up doing that here at some point.
This already has all that bark in it
that's gonna need to break down.
That's why I have to stay on top of the synthetic.
Just don't be like me and don't buy a bad soil.
Go ahead and get something good.
I like the SunGrow, the HP mix, ProMix.
Good stuff, just ProMix in general.
I like it.
It's more of a hydroponic grow though.
You're gonna need to add to it, but that's fine.
Then you're gonna need to hold on some moisture,
but also, all right, yeah.
Hey, as always, and most importantly, everybody,
keep on growing.
Bye-bye.