We Turned a 90s Racecar into THIS! ($100,000 Dream Build Ep. 4)

Hey everyone, welcome back to CJ Racecar's YouTube channel. And today, one of my favorite videos, we're working on the $100,000 dream build project for Steve, and it's coming along absolutely awesome. We're about to get a bunch more done and send this thing to paint very soon. Some of you may wonder why we do this. If it's just a flat piece of steel, it's pretty flimsy, it's flexible. You put it in a big area, it'll give. That's not really good. So we take a step roll and we step it up. You could step it down, depends on your preference. You step it up like that, and that makes that panel very, very rigid now. So when it gets welded down to the chassis, stitched welded all along here, that's really, really strong. You can get in and out of the car and put some weight on it and it won't bend it. And then we DA it afterwards. That just kind of gives it a little bit of a finish, but it's gonna get painted, powder coated, whatever it applies for whatever car, if it's steel. Now, if this is titanium, it'll get a sanded finish similar to this, but it won't be quite as aggressive and it'll get bolted in. A line lock bracket. We had them cut out already, but they're just flat. So we got to take and I just draw a line between two points on there and put it in the sheet that'll break it up, break it up, and then just fine tune it so it fits really good. And that works with the TBM line locks. That'll bolt on like this and weld like that. Simple little bracket. Either here, it's definitely not that. That's in a hotter area and it's right in the way of when you want to work on that V-band, work with that V-band. So I think it's gonna go up here, but I don't know. Gonna have a wheel with a caliper about here. And that's gonna have a flex line that runs over and has to be on the back side of this line lock. Yeah, I think that might be pretty good, something like that. I gotta have a line come out of the master cylinder, go to the firewall with a flex line that these pedals are adjustable. Normally I'd run all that hard line. Can't do that. Not the way these things are made. So there'd be a bulkhead fitting somewhere around here, come out of the master cylinder, go into the bulkhead, come out of the bulkhead in front of the firewall, and then come out, run down, over, down, and into here. And then out of here, a line will go over and run down to a T. That'll be bolted to a tab right here. And then it goes into the T, out of the T to the caliper, this part of the T, down, across, over to a 90, which goes to that wheel. That's all hard line. My favorite. Don't like flex lines. But they have their place. This video is sponsored by Zot Doc. Am I the only one that hates making doctor's appointments? It's not even the appointment itself. 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Click the link in the description and head to ZotDoc.com slash CJRaceCars to get started. It only takes a couple minutes, and you'll be glad you finally checked it off your list. Thanks, Zot Doc, for sponsoring today's video. Inside of this bar here, 90. Run down along the backside of this, and then up and down the frame rail on the other side to about right here, where there'll be a 90 degree, not a T, just a bulkhead 90 with a tab. And that line goes to that caliper. This line goes to this caliper. And then, like I said before, since these pedals move back and forth, I have to make a flex line on the actual master cylinder to go to a bulkhead fitting that'll be in the firewall here somewhere. That flex line will go up to the master cylinder, and on the backside, on the front side of the firewall that you'll be able to see from out here, there'll be a hard line that'll run down the firewall and turn here possibly, and then turn this way and then go into here. Or I might run it down to this area in here, turn it over, and then run it down this way and come across, whichever way, it doesn't matter. And whichever looks the best. It could have been just out, over, straight in, but then it would be way away from this tube. It's away from it here, but it's a little short, tiny area. Same here, you have to get away from it because this isn't over here. And it can't be over there. So what I did was I made it go in like that so if I can put a little clamp on it right here, and I'll drill and tap the frame rail, put a number eight screw in it, and there it is. That just protects this line if it gets bumped over somewhere. It doesn't just cave the thing in. They'd have to hit this pretty hard with something to make it bend. It'd still work. If you bend it, it wouldn't look very good, but it'd still flow breakthrough. But it wanted to look good. And work good. I ended up wrapping up the intercooler piping and we needed to add some blow off valves on. And these are pretty big, honestly. I think they're about 60 millimeter. We want to get the best flow possible coming out just before our throttle body. So ideal placement for blow off valves is always just before the throttle body. Otherwise, if you place them back here, you have air that comes up, hits the butterfly valve, and surges back. And it just kind of causes little issues for the turbo on completely getting all the air out. What will happen is, turbo is spinning this way, you got that flutter coming back, and it actually makes it go backwards. And it kind of kills your response between shifts and then to go into the next gear and a full boost. So this is always an ideal placement for them. To figure out how I ended up wanting to get these symmetrical, because this is a little tricky since it is on a bend. It's not like it's on a very straight edge. So it takes a little bit of coping, trying to match the corner. But as far as leveling it, I ended up using a nice straight edge. This is a hardened ruler, so it doesn't really flex at all. Yeah, right on the money, I guess. So I was able to figure out how I get them level, and then same thing for the angle of it. Which I ended up resting on here since it is a flat edge. Like you guys saw from previously, now we have the headers all finished up for the turbos. I'm working on the driver's side of the fender exit. And right now I just finished up tacking up this piece, figuring out my angles, making sure everything is where it needs to be. I've been using shims for both sides to know that my distance between the rail and the exhaust stump on both sides is the same. And I'm using this little gadget here as usual to make sure that I have my angle just right. And I wanted it sloped down just as tiny as fit. I still can adjust it up here, move this around where I need it to be. 0.4 is where I want to be. So once it's tightened up, it's going to rest there. But just a slight angle to help go with the flow of the fender and any condensation and moisture that gets trapped inside. We want it to be able to run out of the exhaust, not sit in there as the car sits. Figuring out my height as well, since the car is on these stands and everything is very true and square, I'm able to take a ruler and measure from the floor to the top of here, which is 38 and a quarter. And I checked the other side to make sure they're both the same. Now, if the car wasn't on a jig like this, we wouldn't be able to measure from the floor up because most floors, or if you're on driveway or asphalt or something, it's not going to be level. And your fixture may not be level either. This is specifically for building a tube chassis and everything is down to the T when it comes to your measurements, how square it is. I can rely on this in this scenario. Otherwise, we've got to find other points of cross-measuring to make sure that the height is just right. Maybe taking the fenders on and off repeatedly, which is quite a hassle, especially when you have one chance to drill a hole into the fender. So like I said, in this case, got everything true where I need it to be, got the spacing correct, the angle just right. And all we got left now is to just weld this seam up and then I can start working on the waste gear for the inside. Now, I'll show you guys a little sneak preview of what's coming up to happen. This is a little bit tricky and it's something a little bit different. So I have this here and I'm coping this on a belt sander. Well, it was nice because this tube is two and two quarters and then the end of my belt sander is two and two quarters. So I was able to get a really nice cope on that versus using a hole saw, which on stainless, it cuts, but it's not the cleanest. So these aren't gonna be symmetrical. They're gonna be sitting in different spots since the header tubing is a little bit different as the turbos are not mirrored. If these were mirrored turbos, the inlets would be the same, the tubing would be the same. Since they're not, you're gonna be sitting a little off. My plan is to run the outlet of the waste gear into the backside of this dump. It's gonna run through the whole thing. What we're gonna have is a nice little exhaust dump set up just like this. Very different, it'll look clean. You'd have minimal room with the fender. So I'm trying to get this to fit up there with it and then put a bezel around it. It's just gonna take up some space and I figured something doing like this would be a lot cleaner. I might even do a slight oval cut just to give it a little stylish finish. Maybe I'll leave it straight, I'm not too sure yet. But that's the plan for now and hopefully in the next few hours I'll be at that point to where I will have everything all tacked up and this tube's out. And while they're up from there, one thing I wanted to talk about is there's really no sense in going larger on your turbine housing. Say right now we have a three inch outlet, right? If you had a full exhaust on the car, three inch would suffice. You maybe gain 40 to 50 horsepower if you went to three and a half. But it really all depends on how much it's restricting the gases. In this case, we're doing side dumps and three inch to the sides would be more than enough. But since I am adding a waste gate tube throughout the dump, there's a few things you gotta take in mind is making sure that the surface area exceeds three inches. So I stepped up to four inches and there's a little bit of math involved to figure out how much surface area that we do have from this waste gate tube to the inside to the ID of the four inch tube. So I know that this surface area around here is more than three inches. It's about, I'd say 20% over, so it's gonna flow just fine. But let's say if you say three inch throughout and then I have this tube going down through, well, the surface area is actually drastically less. I think it was about 30 to 40% less than what normally would be a three inch. So to do something like a little different and unique like this, we gotta make sure we do it right. Otherwise, if we're too small, not enough surface area for the exhaust gases to flow out, what's gonna happen is we're gonna cause a restriction in airflow and we're gonna lose a lot of power. You'd be surprised how much you lose. I mean, you might as well just put your hand in front of the compressor outlet while it's trying to suck in air and you're choking the engine out. I mean, the same thing goes for the exhaust as well. So we used Stainless Bros, awesome quality, by the way, three to four inch cone, stepped up to four, and now I have more than enough volume to flow my waste gate on the inside. So right now, I know you guys are seeing me put this odd ring on the end of an exhaust, which may think, well, what the heck's that gonna do? Well, pretty much it's gonna end up being a brace. So I can keep this pipe on the middle of the waste gate tube centered, which is the circle cut out in the middle for it, but I also don't want it to move around when I weld. So I mean, I say I could center it up, tack everything up, right? Don't have the ring on. When I go to weld everything on the backside, because when you weld things, you got things that shrink and expand, which is the way the metal works, this could end up pulling one way or the other way, or usually on a bend, which it is on a bend, it's gonna end up sucking upwards. So having this ring on here is gonna really keep it in place. I'm gonna tack the ring to the exhaust and also the waste gate tube with a decent amount of tacks. That way it's held in very well. And then I can weld this in a certain order to where it prevents it from sucking up, so if I were to start welding, say on the inside of the seam, it's gonna immediately wanna pull it up. Even after wrapping all the way around, you would think, well, you wrapped around the backside and pull it back down. Well, unfortunately, the inside is already cooling while the outside's still warm. And as it cools, it shrinks even more. So it's gonna really wanna pull it up on an eighth inch, which happened on the other side. Thankfully I had a solution to fix that. Yeah, so this will keep everything right where I need it. And then I can actually really sit over here, line things up, something holding it over here for me. And I don't have to worry about looking back and forth and making sure this is in the right spot. So this is a nice little thing that I had Andrew help me cut out on the laser machine. And I mean, it works wonderfully. So after tacking this up, we can go ahead and fully weld everything up, which is a little complicated. It's kind of a pain in the butt. I gotta take out the whole entire assembly. So when I go to weld it on the bench, everything stays in place. Say, if I were to take out just the downpipe, right? And I disconnected the wastegate right here and I had this whole piece come out. Now, if I were to go weld this, like I was talking about before, metal moves and shrinks. The outlet of the wastegate to the inlet of this tube, it ended up moving positions. And then that's a really bad scenario. If we were to put this back on the car, it may not line up to the wastegate anymore. And then we're pretty screwed. We have to end up cutting it apart again, making a cut somewhere and then refitting it. So taking out this entire assembly and welding everything on the bench is the optimal way to make sure everything is concrete and it's not gonna move. Put it in front of a fan, let it fully cool down completely, and then we can put it back on the car. And if we wanna take things apart, we can. Like say, if we didn't let it cool down, I weld it up, throw it on the car, start taking stuff apart, things are still gonna move because they're cooling down. So it's really important to make sure that everything's locked in, welded, pulled down properly, and then you can take everything apart. Really what happens when you're not wearing gloves, and if you are wearing gloves and they're dirty, the biggest thing is not wearing them, you have natural oils on your fingers. So if you're touching the whole piece, say if you touch around where you're gonna weld, when you go to weld this, it heats up and it actually embeds your fingerprints, the oils, into the material. And you can get it out if you use Scotch Brite and you can put the grain back in. But the unfortunate part is, if you wanna leave the welds, you're gonna be heating the weld and then you're gonna have a part of the weld that's not colorful, or say you have a weld that has no color, like over here, it's still, you're gonna end up putting a grain into the weld, it's not gonna have a nice finish to it. So all I like to do is wear latex gloves when I'm doing the finalizing of everything. Even tacking everything in together and welding it all, I like to wear latex gloves. Unless you have a really nice pair of rubber gloves like these. These are also still kinda dirty. I've been handling stuff like the turbine housing, which they coat it from factory and there's residue on it, so if you're touching this, this is clean now. If you're touching this, you go to touch this, you're rubbing the oils onto here, then you go to weld. Say if you have the oil on your seam, it's not gonna weld good at all. It's gonna come out pretty bad. So in order to keep everything like really nice clean finish, just clean everything, no oils, keep your hands off of it. That way when you're done, all you have is just nice brushed stainless finish, nice clean welds, and it looks really nice to the eye. Granted, it's gonna turn gold after, you know, some runs and it won't look as nice anymore, unless you were to get a ceramic coating. You could do a clear coat for it and it'll last a very long time. Even then, the tubing will still end up changing colors and the welds aren't as pretty as they used to be. So it's very important if you wanna be tedious and make the product look really nice at the end of the day. Just like the fuel cell tanks I did in the back of the trunk did the exact same thing. You know, if you have, especially in aluminum, it's even worse. You put your hands on the piece and you weld it, you gotta have a handprint on the aluminum. It absorbs moisture and oils and residues much easier than stainless, as aluminum is more porous. It's kinda like Swiss cheese on a microscopic level. So it'll really absorb everything that you're putting on it. Stainless you can get away with. And maybe if you have some fingerprints over here and you're welding over here, you can get away with welding this and wipe this down. Worst case, scotch-brite it. So if you're doing aluminum and it heats up very easily and you have fingerprints all over here and you're welding over here, they still etch into the material. So trying to have something that's a presentation or maybe it's a show car, you're not really driving it much and your wiring look really clean all the time and you want the original finish, you just gotta handle things with care. Here, it's the biggest thing with me is just being really careful. It's important to me that it looks nice at the end of the day when the customer sees it. Because if we're doing a lot of handling, the last thing we wanna do is hand the customer a nice product, but then the finish looks like crap after. And you know, it's not very appealing, especially when the customer is expecting to have something nice and clean. Now that I have my template made, I'm gonna shear out the carbon fiber. This is going in the center, right behind the driveshaft. The driver's floor, the passenger's floor, since it will be a passenger, is all steel. And underneath the transmission, because it needs some bends in it, will have to be aluminum. But the centerpiece here can be carbon fiber. And well, I'd like to put some carbon in a car, so we're gonna get this piece made out of carbon right now. All right, now what this is, we have a lot better fixture for a Turbo 400. We've never built a Tremec stick shift car before, so this is kind of a make-do of what we have. Similar, but it doesn't have a bolt to tighten it up on the output shaft here. But basically, we're gonna connect a string from here to what we want in the back, and that's gonna give us the cone of our driveshaft enclosure, because what we don't want is that, if this driveshaft breaks, to end up in Steve's lap, or on Steve's arm, or any of that other stuff. So we have a 450 ProMoly driveshaft enclosure that'll contain anything if it were to come apart while he's driving. So this is just gonna make the project, the project, projectory? Projectory. Projectory of the cone. That's all this string is gonna do going back. We'll have another one in the very back, and the tunnel is actually 36 inches long, and we'll probably use all of it, because it'll help actually seal off the tin to the back of the car also, which will make a lot more sense here pretty soon. Yeah. All right. What the string is gonna do, basically, is gonna decide where this goes, the top and the bottom, and how it tapers toward the back. You can see there's a step on this side. So this side overlaps that. And obviously, we can cut this down to where it tapers how we want it. But first, what we have to do is fit the driveshaft enclosure loops, which are one-inch 065 chromoly loops, to this. So we'll put the top to that, and then there's a piece that slides in the bottom, and that'll go to the string. We'll tack it there, get those both level, and then this'll be pretty much plug and play. We'll put the lower piece in, slide the upper piece in, mark it to fit the lower piece, trim it off, and weld it up. So we're working on this driveshaft enclosure, and I was really excited to show you guys how fixturing can help your job, and it does, right? Anything we have to do more than a couple times, we try to create a fixture for it, or a way to replicate it as efficiently as possible so we can save time. Because if you're sitting in here, Taylor's having to hold it, or Danny's holding it, or you got, you know, it makes it tough. And as excited as I was to show you guys, 99.99% of driveshaft enclosures we do here are titanium. But a titanium driveshaft enclosure, just the materials, is over $2,000. So this car, we're not going to mild steel, we're going to chromoly, so it's still a good driveshaft enclosure, it's not a cheap mild steel one. But the radius, even though it's bent in the same die, is slightly different to the titanium spring back. Oh yeah. So normally we have this that clamps, it's threaded to this, the driveshaft loop fits inside this, it's really nice. But this is a tiny bit narrower because it doesn't have as much spring back as titanium, so this fancy fixture we have wouldn't work. Thankfully we could still use the back section. Yes. So we're still able to use some of the fixture, but I wasn't excited to show this thing. And it didn't quite work. But the point is, if you're doing something at home and you know you're going to have to do it more than a few times, or if you have a business, make a fixture for it. Because I went a really long time without making fixtures, and every time I wish I had made one, you save a lot of time when you start making stuff like this. This is what I like. Don't do that. This has made our life really easy until that bolt just fell out. No, seriously though, this is a good fixture. Yeah, you got a lot of good fixtures. Yeah. Especially on the, like the 480 bars and stuff. Yeah. Yeah, for building the whole race cars, we got this, we got one for the wishbone, the strut cups. It might take a little time to build something like this, but in the end, you're saving so much money and time and production and stuff. Well, the first one might take you twice as long. Yeah, exactly. But then by the time you're done with the 10th one, you've saved half the time. Exactly. Do it. One, two, three. Do it. Try to see that. Nice hand. So we made a template for the transmission belly pan. Cameron started with some cardboard, put a couple of bends in it, then I transferred it over to some aluminum. We did have to add a little bit here, a little bit there, modify, because Cameron's cardboard template wasn't 100% perfect. What this is gonna do, if the transmission has some type of a failure, cracks, busts, leak, something like that, it's gonna catch as much fluid as possible and keep it off the track and out from underneath the rear tires. This is gonna zeus in in seven places. Two in the back at the cross member, two halfway between the cross member and the mid plate, and then we'll have three at the mid plate that we're gonna put in at a later date. Let's go ahead and put this in so you can guys see what it looks like. There it is, it's in. So the three up here at the mid plate will actually, once we take the motor out and everything for the final time, we'll cut the mid plate. And then this aluminum angle is just to signify a lift that we're gonna bolt to the front side of the mid plate that'll hang back and will actually zeus through on each flat that'll hold the front end in place. So I got a cardboard template that's gonna mark the down pipe. I think we're gonna have to take the down pipe off in order to put the front end on. So once the front end's on, I can throw this back on the car. I've got the door marked and everything where I've laid this out at, roughly. I can put it against the front fender and it gives me my hole. Would you just look at it? Perfect. You just gotta level these out. Yep. Come a little bit farther forward so that this is even. Yep. Perfect, that's perfect right there. I'll try to hold. Does this one look 90-ish? No. All right, I'll try to hold it. There you go. That's pretty close. Right there? Yep, now you just wanna squeeze it down to the bottom. Yep. And then really, as long as it's rolled the right way, you can almost tack that in so it doesn't move. Like squeeze it to the bottom and tack it. And then put the top piece in, that way it doesn't lose the punch. Taylor just got the driver's side wheel tub out. This is an aluminum wheel tub. And they obviously had it sealed to the core panel, which is making it a little tougher to get it out. Plus, whoever installed this wheel tub did not want this wheel tub to fall out. The wheel tub was attached to the chassis better than the chassis was attached to the cage because they put about 700 rivets. I think they just started. They really did. Which is, it wasn't gonna go anywhere, so that's the good news. But taking it out is a little more challenging because there's so many rivets. We're gonna have this thing stripped down and then we're gonna have it powder-coated. All the aluminum in the back, we're gonna have it powder-coated a wrinkled black, like a satin wrinkled black, which will look really good with the chassis color and the body and the wrinkle part of the powder coat really holds up good for any scratching or any of that stuff. So we're gonna get that going as soon as all this aluminum is out. That way they have some time to get it stripped. It's gonna take a little bit of work to get those stripped and powder-coated. Then when the car comes back, we can put all that stuff back in and it's ready to go. And we're gonna take the front suspension off. This way, when we put the front end on here and Danny has to get back in this area, he has some room. If we leave all this stuff in his way, it's gonna make it a whole lot harder to get back here. And there's gotta be bracing built to the back of the front end on the top and the bottom. Thankfully, most of our cars are a one-piece front end. So it's a little bit harder on this car, but if you're not having a hood, you can get kind of in it this way too. Oh, this will be good if I can sit on my chair. Sit on my chair. And just slide right underneath of my chair, sit down, rolling under, roll around going that side. Can't get any better than that. Hey, I like that. That's always good, man. So that's it. We're gonna get these pieces off. These pieces are fit and fabricated, so these don't need to go back on. These can get welded now. We got a powder coat, lower control arms, the tie rods, the tunnel, the wheel tubs, like we talked about. A bunch of stuff will be going to powder coat in just the next few days. One of the biggest things when mounting a front end, especially a front end that has a hard body line, it actually helps. But if you don't get it right, it really sticks out. With this body line like this, this gap looks good. So that's probably how it was mounted before. Obviously it needs to come back. It's pretty even. But this body line comes forward and then it goes uphill here. So the front end does need to come down. Those have to be re-trimmed here to even out the gap. But that's something you definitely want to make sure you look at. A lot of people do it on a 69 Camaros. And for a reason, the front of these cars are really short up here. So the rocker will actually be lower than the front balance. But on a 69 Camaros, what we do is we'll actually trim the door a tiny bit to move the whole body line on the door and everything. That way, you don't get up here and have this body line point down so you get the front end lower because then it looks a little gooped up. But we'll get it raised about that far off. That right there is probably what he wants. Yeah, by the time he body works that and puts a couple coats of paint and clear on it, it's going to be tight. You want about three 16s. Yeah. The one pre-coil that's in there, that's old. Is that the one that's bent? Yeah. Oh, it's bent to hell. Oh, man. That thing, got it on camera? That one's in rough shape. Say, uh. Hmm. Nice. Thank you very much, sir. You're welcome. Look, I know how you feel about your stuff. I don't want to throw anything. I don't want to throw anything away. You know how I am about my stuff? Yeah. I know how you are about your tools. You can't do that with the bigger one we're missing. Yeah. Oh, I'm not, trust me. I have, I'm not. I had 637 Clicos last week and only 636 this week. I have no idea what's going on with that. When anyone gets here, he does an audit on them. Hey, I don't know anything about that. He don't know nothing about that. I don't know anything about that. A little bit of bondo there, there's at least a six. Now it's, it's all held like that. And it's aiming the right direction. Once it gets past the door, it's not in or out. It's nice and straight. I think we do one more at the bottom, maybe. Or see, see where we need to go first with our mounts. Drill, drill those out. Yeah, let's drill in now. Save that. What car? Oh, that's what that is. You want to draw that hole real quick and then we can figure out where to put our angle at? Yeah, do that. Where this hole is, Danny, we'll probably go to here, right? Okay. And then we'll cut all this off and then that'll just be straight down. Cause if you capture it on the bottom, you'll never get it over it. You know what I mean? So we'll just go like straight up and then forward and then across. But we want to, that door needs to go in. So we don't want to go off of that probably. We'll probably go off this rocker. Cause see that door needs to go in right there. But if we go off this rocker, that'll get us pretty close. That looks good. And it's like, it's good. It's good all the way. It's right. Nice. Considering I'm not left-handed and that side I had to be left-handed. Yeah. Well, the dream build is coming out absolutely awesome. I think we got the front end lined up really good. So the last thing to do is mount the tree in the front. Some Zeus's in the back. We already got the back of the car completely stripped apart. Tack the firewall in. Take the motor out. And this thing's going to paint. And Danny said he'll have these Zeus's done in 30 minutes on Monday, so. That's the good news. 45 minutes. Don't bet on that. No, I'm just kidding. It's coming out absolutely awesome though. We got a lot of time in this thing and the only way we can do this is because of all you guys. We really appreciate it. And Steve is an absolutely awesome person. I'm glad we get to build a dream car. No, he'll, he deserves it. Yeah, he really does. He's a great guy, so. Thank you guys again for all the support so we're able to do this. But let's call the winner of our last giveaway. Before we call the winner of the last giveaway, Josh literally just came out here with all these papers and notes and told me where we're at with the budget of our first ever dream build. Now, when we did this dream build giveaway, it was $100,000 budget was the plan. And that's what Steve wanted, $100,000 dream build. Well, at this point right now, at the end of this video with where we're at, we're at $86,500. We still have eight to $10,000 to spend on paint. We have all the electronics to still buy that are not on that budget. And we have to pay some of the wire. We have to plummet. We're going way over the budget. And we probably still have 200 hours of labor left. So that's okay. It doesn't matter. Steve is gonna have exactly what he wants. And that's what this is all about. The budget is a good number to shoot for. And normally going over budget is bad. But in this case, it's really good for anyone who wins our dream builds because I'd say we're gonna go over about 40 to 50%. All right, we're gonna call Joshua E. back. He called us and left a voicemail and he's at work. But hopefully this time he answers the phone. Let's see. This is it. Watch him not answer again. Awesome. All right, he's calling back. He's calling back. Call him back. Hello? Hey, how are you? This is Cameron. What's going on? How are you? Well, we picked 10 random people to give free stickers to and you're one of them. I'm just kidding. You won a giveaway. I swear. I'm dead serious. Yeah. I'm dead serious. You won. Is that crazy? Yeah, that's a pretty big thing to win. So I guess the big question is what do you, do you want the black wing or do you want the build? Yeah, it's a hard one to pass up. It's a really cool car. Yeah, the dream build thing is really cool for us, but it's definitely a really particular person that wants that. So the black wing, we loved it. I mean, it's a great car and it's a super nice car, so. Yep, you can call me anytime this weekend or Monday or whenever and we'll figure everything else out, but I just wanted to call you and say you won and that way we can make a post. Well, he's taking a black wing, which I understand, but that means now we don't have a dream build to do and we had a slot for it in the next month or so. Now what do we do? No, we got to figure something out. I was definitely thinking someone picked a dream build, especially as high as we raised 120,000 plus a 15 or $16,000 trailer with a straps and a winch and everything. But it is somebody that's really got to want a dream build because you got to wait, you got to pick, it's a little bit of a process, but it's something we really want to do. So now we got to figure out what we're going to do with the open slot we have for a dream build. All right, so last week we did a deal where if you bought some merch on cjracecars.com or went to harlowco.us and bought something there, we picked one random order that we're going to throw this in and this is Eagle's Turbo. And the order that we picked was Nathan M. So we're going to give Nathan a call and see if he's got any plans for this turbo that's been 262 miles an hour. It's a big turbo. Your call has been forwarded to voicemail. No call. The person you're trying- All right, Nathan's calling back. Cameron Johnson Race Cars. Are you for real? You want a turbo off of Eagle? Nope, I swear. Where? You got a locomotive train or something to put this thing on or what? You did, you got it, yep. You bought a lifestyle shirt and now you got a turbo headed your way. Yep. Yes, sir. Yeah, no, thank you very much for the support. It means a lot without you guys, we can't do it. And maybe when you get this thing, send us some pictures if you ever do something with it. Love to see it. Awesome, sounds good. Well, I appreciate the support and we'll get this thing headed your way. All right, Nathan, no problem. That's awesome. Super excited. See what he put. This, you have to have a pretty, well, I guess you could put this on LS1. That'd be a pretty decent LS for sure. But hopefully Nathan puts it to some use and I'm glad somebody's getting to have this thing. I don't know what we'll do with the second one yet. It's kind of a piece of history. Maybe we'll hang on to it. You never know. But that's gonna do it for today's video. I love these dream build videos. It's something that means a lot to me. I know I've said that and we plan on doing this for a few years. And now we finally have been able to do it. Unfortunately, the last dream build giveaway, Joshua picked the black wing. So we got to figure out what we want to do there because with this car going to paint, it's gonna be gone for a few months. And when it comes back, the only thing left is assembly. And we had a pretty big window open to do a dream build. And we've got a few more guys here now. So let us know what you guys think we should do. I would love to do these dream builds more often. Obviously it really helps my fix with building cars for somebody. And somebody like Steve or somebody that gets in these and wins the dream build, you're really changing their life. And that's something I've wanted to do for a really long time. It means a lot more to us than just money. So let us know what you guys think we should do. But that's gonna do it for today's video. Thanks for watching. Make sure you like, share and subscribe. We'll see you on the next one.