These Are The Lifetime Projects | Unfolding Lines in Flatanger Ep.1

EpicTV
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1 Video View·Sep 11, 2026
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Video Summary
AI GeneratedTilo Schröta, a professional route setter and trainer based in Norway, shares his passion for climbing and his exploration of the Flathanger area. After discovering high-potential bouldering spots during the pandemic, he and his partner established a home there to pursue challenging new lines, focusing on three primary high-difficulty projects: the Shoulder, the Tall, and the Prow.
My name is Tilo Schröta and I'm originally German, born in the Netherlands and moved to Sweden at a
young age. Then I moved to Norway later on and I've been living in Norway for close to 18 years now.
I feel like I can call it home. Yeah, I've been climbing for as long as I've lived in Norway.
My mother took me to the gym and I've just stuck with it ever since and now climbing is basically
my life. I try to travel as much as possible and climb as much as possible. Right now I work as a
route setter and I also work as a trainer for kids in Oslo, the most psyched and strongest kids in
the country. So that's a lot of fun and then of course there's climbing as well as a job.
Yeah, that's pretty much what I do for a living.
Boom. Well done. Vingtsson and Harbak are like the original bouldering places of the area and
Flathanger came a bit later and I always thought for the last couple of years that
there is the cave which has such good rock and it's really close to Vingtsson as well
and why is there no bouldering in Flathanger? There has to be some some potential. So I
definitely thought about it for a couple of years that it's a place that we should check out
and then once the pandemic hit we basically just decided now it's time to just climb locally and
we drove here and lived there in isolation and just ran around like crazy looking for boulders
and we found a lot of boulders. The weather was really bad that trip but we found a lot of good
stuff. Not too hard today. Felt good. Such a struggle last time and now it just went.
Cool though. Cool climb. Happy that we stopped and tried it even though it was raining a bit.
Then we came back later in the summer and we climbed a lot of the boulders that we found
earlier and then yeah we ended up buying a house there as well because the climbing was just so
good. Having the bouldering in combination with the cave it's just crazy and yeah now we're
basically back for round two of trying some of the hard projects that we found last year
and yeah putting up more new lines as well.
The shoulder project is located on the way out to Hasvog probably like 40 minutes from the house
and it was found by Martin Mobroth. Alright let's go. I looked at it together with a friend last
year and then I came back to try it for a session this year. Looks so good. And it's just super cool
it has just like brutal body tension moves and this like really crazy shoulder move
where you're like pretty spanned out. Heavy on the shoulder. It's ******* heavy on the shoulder.
That move I couldn't do the first session but it feels doable like the position is holdable
with a bit of margin so I think it's just a lot of timing and of course strength but if
you hit the timing perfectly on this move it's doable and then the other moves are not as hard
so I think it's definitely a doable project but it's crazy crazy hard and really cool.
That's so cool. That's dope. Now I just have to do all the other moves to get to there.
And then there's the tall project which is a boulder located in a cave underneath the kind
of a big wall. We cleaned some boulders there last year that were pretty cool.
Really nice 88 plus and 7c and we also bolted a route on the wall this year.
I've been up there a couple of times now and never really paid too much attention to this tall
project. I guess it's because it's so tall that the landing is kind of bad. It's like sloping
downwards. This year we built the landing and brushed it up and gave it a try and it's super
cool as well. It's really really hard. It's probably the hardest one of the three projects.
A rough guess is like 8b, 8b plus to get to a move that I didn't do
which feels possible and it's quite far up and you're definitely going to be tired when you get
there. Landing worked. That one is going to be really hard. It's like the more futuristic one
of the three I think.
Crazy beta. Size of holds don't matter. Rotation does.
F*** that's hard.
The last boulder is the prow project and it's a boulder Tina and I found last spring. It has
some of the craziest shapes that you can think of like three crazy undercling scoops that look like
they're made by humans or something because they're just so crazy good and then you have the
riderette which is like perfect slopers. It's like burly sloper compression climbing.
Big move. Into a really tricky move where you have to toe hook next to your hand so you're
kind of tight and then you have to extend really far and that move is still undone as well.
I can hang there. It's crazy right now. It's like to try it in good conditions. It's always in the
sun and then it's still in the sun like at 11 or 12 in the evening so now like rain is coming in
and hopefully I have like an hour or two before the rain comes. This one, this one and that one.
Just crazy holds.
In my opinion this is the best of the projects. It's in a crazy location and I think once this
one goes it's going to be one of the better ones in the world. I think people are going to come
here for this one. So cool.
