Jacopo Larcher SCARY New Climb | Climbing Daily Ep.1915

Hi guys and welcome back to the Wednesday News Show. Today we have matchy jumpers, a bad hair day and a ton of news. So let's get on it. Speak for yourself with a bad hair day. How's your hair? My hair looks great. I'm a bit cold. Okay. It's the only reason I'm wearing a hat. My hair is fantastic. And you're not wearing a hat because it's an EpicTV hat. No, I mean, I've already got this. I just, I'm a bit cold. But my hair underneath this is a million dollars. Okay. Talking about good hair, Alex Megos sent a 9b. Has he got good hair? Yeah, he does. Alex Megos is on a rampage down in Spain. And this week he shared a picture with bleeding fingertips after having climbed Furia de Jabil, a 9b in Serrano. This route was first climbed by Will Bosie last year. And on the grade, Alex simply comments that Kinkapella was harder. I'm quite enjoying this, not talking about the grade. They're hard. They're just hard routes. Short and bouldery. I think Yukako Laka, who we're going to hear about in a sec, doesn't like talking about grades. Maybe we just, it's just, we just like gradeless climbs. Maybe this is going to be the norm. I like that last week somebody was just like, anything above 6c, it's a 6c plus. Cosmo Steve. It doesn't matter. Hi Cosmo. He's a man. He's a man. He's got a new grading system. He is a man. He's a man. He is a man. Speaking of men, nice tenuous link. Yukako Laka has just made an ascent of an 8c plus trad route, which is an extension of a burnt Zangel boulder problem, high bowl boulder problem. We managed to catch up with Yukako to talk a little bit about his latest ascent. Into the sun, I would describe it as a hybrid route. It's basically a hard high bowl followed by an easier section. After the first seven meters, you reach a big horizontal crack where you can place some, some boulder gear. And from there you traverse to the left to top out the big boulder. I don't know, for me as a tread climber, it simply made more sense to climb it like that because you climb the first section protected by the, by the pads. And then you reach this, this big horizontal crack where you can place some boulder gear. That didn't count the sessions, but I invested a lot of time on it. I think around eight sessions, something like that. So I struggled a lot, especially with the last two moves and I fell there. The main challenges were probably the conditions and the fact that if you want to climb it as a tread climb, you need to have a B-layer. Luckily I had a lot of friends and Babsi who supported me. So the main part of the climb was, was dry, the hardest part, but the start and the top out were often wet. The biggest problem was the start because you basically started an entire climb with wet shoes and wet hands. But on the day of the ascent, it was really good. It was cold and everything was dry, except for the top out, which was really cool. Thanks Jacopo and congrats again on your, another tread first ascent into the sun. Interesting method there. He says there's an alternative, but he's a tread climber. So he tread climbed it. Yeah. Which is pretty obvious. It could have been a boulder problem. He just needed a million crash pads. Like a really, really high boulder problem. And then he said there's a split of crack. So why not? Why not protect it? Why not? Yeah, I agree. I agree. Why not? Like it's there. There's a crack. You've got gear. Use the gear. Exactly. Yeah. What's next? Next up, I have a very hard boulder problem in Switzerland. Belgian climber Simon Lorenzi made the third ascent of Off the Wagon Low, the iconic 8c plus boulder in Val Bavona, Switzerland. In his Instagram post, he explains his obsession with the line and how changing up the beta allowed him a chance to send it. Plagued with bad weather, he only had a one day window. So he drove nine hours from Belgium. And the next day, after a couple of attempts, he was able to send it. So Simon Lorenzi climbed maybe a 9a boulder. This is an 8c plus boulder. Oh, it's that Simon Lorenzi. Yeah, he did, what was it called? The one in Fontainebleau. I'm having a brain fart right now. Big Island Sit Start. Thank you. Yeah, he climbed that. And I can't wait to see the movie, actually, because the trailer looks beautiful. Yeah. But yeah, another hard take for him. And it was quite interesting to read all his attempts and how like a beta change was like a massive breakthrough. And he knew that going back to like he just needed one more session on it. So he went back for it and sent it. Amazing. It's all about minute beta changes, isn't it, when you're bouldering at the highest level. Something that we don't know anything about. Something that who does know about it is Molly Thompson-Smith. British climber Molly Thompson-Smith has made an impressive quick ascent of Flip Floppera, an 8b boulder in the Lake District, UK. Molly made this end in an hour with a little help from fellow WOD Aiden Roberts, who she was there visiting. As Molly says on her Instagram, a good confidence boost that my finger is back on track. Nice shot from Sam Pratt. So it's good to see Molly coming back from... It feels like an endless stream of injuries for Molly. Yeah, this one was like a finger tweak while she was climbing another 8b boulder. But it was like a month ago. I guess she recovered quickly. But yeah, in a session, an 8b, that's super impressive. That's good. It's good. It's good to hear that she's back and strong. Yes. Because it's always gutting when you hear about people getting injured. And she has been injured quite a lot. So I'm psyched for her to be coming back. My next story is also about a climber who is back from injury. As reported on 8a.nu, Janja Kazbykova, who recently had a couple of bad injuries, now looks to be back on form with her latest ascent of Palindrome, an 8c in Suranam. This route took her three days to climb. Janja, obviously down in Spain with Alex. And she actually mentioned that she sent this climb after seeing him sending King Capello. So it must have been like, psych, psych, psych. Let's go send it. It is either that or like, I think I feel like when I'm climbing with somebody really good, much better than me. I'm not saying that Alex is much better than that. But if I'm climbing with somebody that's climbing loads better than me, it has the reverse effect. Really? Like you don't want to climb? That's so good. Never going to be that good. I always think out of osmosis, you're going to pick it up. Like... Maybe, maybe. Because you're breathing the same air. You're touching the same rope. Breathing the same air. I like that. Yeah, okay. I'll think about it next time. Or you're in the same space. All right. Next up, we got a story about an 8b plus route in America. 8a.nu reports that Audrey Snezek has climbed the 8b plus route God's Own Stone in the Red River Gorge, Kentucky, USA. Audrey has previously climbed 8c some nine years ago, and at the age of 50, this is her fifth 8b plus. There's an excellent interview with Audrey on 8a.nu that tells the story of this ascent, sadly, including a family death, which meant she hasn't climbed much this year, making this ascent even more impressive on many levels. Okay, so kudos to Jens for getting a lovely interview with Audrey about that. He does make a big thing about her being 50 and climbing 8b plus, but as we know, 50 is the new 40, and if you keep yourself in shape, as Audrey obviously has, anything is possible. So I am still hoping for that 6b send by the time I'm 50. Are you waiting to be 50? I'm training hard for it. 6b, not 8b plus. So I'm just training. That's the training. I'm done for the day. Next up, from one extreme to another, we have an 11-year-old climbing 8b boulder. As reported on 8a.nu, 11-year-old Tristan Chouvy, who last week sent Lacrima, an 8b in Fontainebleau, this week has done the second repeat of Philippe Ledemats' Enigma, another 8b in Fontainebleau. He started working this boulder back in May, however, he couldn't do one move, and after sending Enigma, that impossible move went down, and after waiting for his skin to heal, he was able to send this boulder. 11-year-old French kid, two 8b's in like a week. French, the future looks bright for French. For France, yes. For France. Because, obviously, you've got Theo Blass. Yes, who's a sport climber. Maybe it will be a boulder. That will be interesting to see. We should do a series with them, and they should swap. Swap lives. What's that film, where they're twins? Freaky Friday. Oh, Freaky Friday. What's the twins one? The one in New York? Is it that? Oh, no. Yeah, they did a remake of it, and it was... Oh, what's it called? It's another Lindsay Lohan one. Yes, Lindsay Lohan, when she's like really young. Yeah. If anybody knows, comment, make a comment below. No, I have it on top of my tongue. Don't worry about it. What is it? Well, they'll answer in the comments. Next up, I've got an 8c roundup. 8a.nu reports that Zach Galla, who is on a big roll at the moment, has climbed Pegasus, an 8c boulder in Joe's Valley, Utah. Italian climber Marcello Bombardi, more known for his sport routes, has made an ascent of an 8c boulder Zicorat at Gabi in the Aosta Valley, North Italy. Thanks to Planet Mountain for breaking that one. German climber Dominic Bosch has made an ascent of Frontman Deluxe in Algao, Southern Italy. This is a 9a sport route, and Dominic, who is normally a boulderer, skipped from a previous best of 8b to his now best grade. Impressive. Thanks again to 8a.nu for that story. Okay, so that was Dominic Bosch, who did a sport route in the 8c boulder roundup, so it doesn't really make any sense, but he skipped from 8b to 9a in grades. That's quite a skip. So it's a bit of a smorgasbord of news there. I don't know what that means. Carry on. Okay, but yes, we have more news from Tom and Pete Whittaker, obviously the white boys, and we read about this or heard about it in the last couple of weeks that they sent. Where have you heard about it? I couldn't find it anywhere. You couldn't find it anywhere. Instagram, all over the news. This looks like probably one of the worst, but most impressive climbs I've ever seen. Yes. The fact that it's, what, 2,500 feet? So 750 meters of crack, horizontal crack, but it's the equivalent of half dome, but horizontal. So it's like they flipped the whole mountain under a motorway. That's basically what happened. Yeah. But yeah, there's gonna be a Real Rock episode movie about it, so that would be interesting to see how they do. Three nights, four days under a motorway. That's like grim. In the name of first ascents, that is. We're not worthy. Pete Wood's gonna tell Randall. We're not worthy! But isn't it their thing, though? Just like a good sufferfest. Big time. I remember when Robbie Phillips started doing the whole crack climbing under bridges, and we were like, oh, that's pretty cool. Yeah. And Tom and Pete came along and were like, right, we're gonna take this and multiply it by 1,500. Yep. And then see where we get to. And this is where we got to. I don't think anybody can push it further than they've just pushed it. Well, are you sure? I feel there are more bridges out there. I'm always sure. I never say anything that I'm not sure about. All right. Okay. Right. Let's move on to the 9b counter. Alex Magos, yeah? Alex Magos. Yep. Alex Magos. He's on the- We apparently didn't put him on last week. I know, so he gets- Where's Steve or Jim or Tony or- David. Where's David when you need him? He will pop up soon. David, where are you? Come back. Come back to us. Come back to us and update. Send you an email. But yeah, so Alex Magos gets two points from last week and one point from this week. Is there an HC Plus counter? Does that exist anymore? Well, the Shad counter, but what is it? HC Plus? Definitely E10. Definitely? More? Like I said, I'm always sure about what I say, so I'm just gonna stick with that. It's definitely an E10. Okay, so then Jakob gets one point. Boom! Okay, so that was the 9b counter. Let's talk sharp stuff. Oui. Cyber week. Oui. Continuation of Black Friday week. Oui. Up to 60% off. You're making me want to go to the toilet. Why? You keep saying oui. Go get some more deals. There is limited stock because we had the sales went kind of through the roof last week. If you want to check out our Friday gear show special that we did last week with Matt and Theresa, there's a 3 hour 40 show. It was an epic. We had loads of guests on there. We had Stefano Gasolfi, Beatrice Coli, Larry, Larry Archie, and Nate. Talking about new shoes and stuff like that. So Theresa is going to make a highlights video. She's going to timestamp it. She's going to work really hard on it. But if you want to go and watch that, that is on the Epic TV Climbing daily channel. Lots of cool stuff in there. There will be a link down below. And yeah, I guess watch it. So you know what's available in the shop or not for this Cyber Monday week sales. Next up, Epic TV Media. And what's coming out this week, Hugo? Okay, next up, we've got the latest world list traveled from Josh and Charlotte. They are in Nepal. Here's a clip. Today, bouldering in Zaraq, which is a 20 minute slash 40 minute hike above Namche. And we got a topo from a friend of mine, Brian Rosa in Boston. Kind of a topo, but like told us some boulders up here, told us where there's some projects, some classics. Cool trailer. I can't wait to see that. But on Climbing Daily this week, we have an episode from the latest, the Arcteryx Academy in the Lake District. So check out the trailer. My name is Charlie Woodburn and I'm helping out today at the Arcteryx Academy for the beginners rope climbing course. I've been assisting Paul, who is the guide doing the classes. Whilst Paul's setting up the ropes, I take the beginners doing some footwork, master class skills with bouldering just to give them the feel of moving on actual rock because all of them have only climbed indoors before, which is a very different experience. So get them used to moving on actual rock outside, which can prep them for something a bit higher and a bit more challenging on the ropes behind us. Both hands on the dead rope, nice and low. That looks like such a cool event. It's like Arcteryx Academy, but then in the Lake District, right? Exactly, yeah. Lots of tri-climbing clinics, bouldering clinics, overnight clinics, camping clinics, water clamping clinics. Lots of clinics. To learn about climbing. Yeah, but if you want, we'll put the link down below if you want to book yourself for next year. A great way to kind of get an introduction if you're like a more of an indoor climber going to outdoors, just to see what you can kind of get done. Yeah. Especially if you have something like the Lake District on your doorstep, which is an incredible place. It's meant to be the best place in England to climb because everybody told me to go climb there. It's an amazing place. Like when I mentioned I was going to England, they're like, go to Wales, go to the Lake District. Yeah, Lake District for me is my favorite place in England. I think to film, it's beautiful. Absolutely beautiful. It's the English word, Oh, right. I just want to explain why we're kind of talking a little bit jattery like this. It's so cold in this office because all the heating's gone. I need to get an email and an electrician. But in the meantime, we're just a little bit jittery. We're a bit jittery. We're honestly a bit rushed. No, we're not rushed. We're not rushed. I feel totally calm and relaxed. Let's do a comment of the week. I'm rushed because I drank too much coffee. All right, okay, fine. Let's do a comment of the week. Three, two, one, go. Comment of the week. Why am I singing alone? That's beautiful. I'm sorry. Right, my one is from, I want a little mention to Cosmo Steve, who's banging on about his six C plus grading system again. Cosmo Steve, I got you. And then next up, my other one is from, from, from, from, from, from, if Terry has to become more of a bolderizer, is Matt going to have to push some more of a sporterizer? Alpenizers? Michael Roberts with a comment there. That was a nice one. Oh, yes. He's adding zers to everything. Anything Michael Roberts. I picked also, he left two comments. Oh, did he? So I picked his other one. Michael Roberts, nice. I think I'll stick to sport car, by the way. But sport, because yeah, because bolderizer, Matt coined that word. Yeah. Bolderizer. Just took zers and stuck it on boulders. Make it more cool though. Boulderizers. Yeah. Okay. Yeah. I'll go with that. But yeah, my other comment from Michael Roberts is, oh, what about the education? No, let's zoom in, because, you know, I'm blind. Oh, what about in the education front? Singing in different languages would all benefit. So yes, I, we are waiting for that. We're waiting for comment of the week songs in different languages. Did we not have like a beautiful bunch of kids sing comment of the week? Yeah, but that was in English. Did we do that last week? Yes, we already showed it. Okay, that was great. Anybody else who wants to sing commentaire de la semaine? It could be. Commentaire de la settimana. Perfetto. Guys, thank you so much for watching and we'll see you next week. Yes, that's it. Love you. Leave you. Bye. Have a great weekend.