REDEMPTION SESSION AT PUERTO ESCONDIDO AND SHARK ENCOUNTER

Oh, there's our set. We got left, Ivan. Oh, look at that thing! It barely times out a lot. Got some really good lash today. Back and forth. He got vomited. One hour down into the session and already way better than what we've had the whole last week, pretty much. Perfect offshores, big peaks, like literally very few rip currents. Pretty crazy, pretty stoked. Got a good left and got a good right. My previous count was one barrel made in about seven days before this day, so that feels good. We're going to keep surfing. It's still early, it's only 7.30. I might bring the GoPro in to save it, I'm not sure, but hopefully get some more peaks. It's pumping! Riding my 7.5. Ivan is way down on the other side of the beach. He's been sitting there for a long time. I guess he's waiting for a bomb. Hopefully he's riding some waves, though. Sometimes he can get stuck over there. Go, go, go! What are you doing here? The fish is following me. Oh no! Bro, he got portoed! He must have gone on a big closeout. He got portoed. Bro, you needed a leash. The wind is up. The line-up is emptied out. There's still a few peaks, but it's kind of a bad direction. It's pretty choppy, pushing the lips down. That might be it for today. So, what a score. Finally, the last day of the trip. We'll get some good. Love that so much. Grateful for getting some good barrels. Spending another week in Porto. We've been coming 25 years. Seeing old friends, having dinner with Roger. Roger's son, Roger. And the whole family. Meeting a bunch of old friends in the water. Yeah, that'll wrap it up. We are going to put some links down below. And a link in the video. And that's basically to... There's this jetty situation going down. And it's causing... The jetty's being built. And this little harbor over there. It got washed away in a storm. It wants to be rebuilt. This jetty just ruins the sand. It's a big issue here in Porto. It ruins the coastal lithometry. The sand doesn't move the same. And it's caught, stuck in some areas. And pushed away in other areas. And it's just changing the whole coastline. And so the local surfers and communities have had some scientists come in with a Save the Waves program. And do some bathymetry studies. And basically map out to get some data. To tell the local government and state. Hey, we're not just making this stuff up. There's no problem here. Here's the data to back it up. Because they've basically just been being ignored and written off. By, I guess, the local state. Those studies by the scientists. The bathymetry mapping. Oh my god. Those studies by the scientists. The bathymetry mapping. Oh my god. Wow, there's a huge whale shark. He must be right by you. That was crazy. Literally, as I was just speaking about this insane coastline. A whale shark. Just below me. Right in the reef area. Seeing seahorses. Just shows how special this place is. So, they need coverage and funds to cover the bathymetry. Through all these scientists and biologists, marine biologists. And collect data to stop this wharf from going down. We are doubling up on the hydration. Protect hydration. Like, two in the morning. Two after. We just did a five and a half hour surf. Crazy. Liquid. Hydrator. Straight in the bottle. Straight into the system. Super quick absorption. Because it's already liquid. So, straight into the bloodstream. Perfect. That was five and a half hours chasing rip currents. Got a few nugs, finally. And the wind got so worked. Like, I can't even say how many waves I took on the head. So ragdolled. Right now, I feel brain dead. Missed like a bomb in the wind. In an insane amount of water in my head. And we wouldn't have it any other way. That was insane. Finally got a clean, clean offshore peaky day. So stoked. And saw a whale shark. That was epic. And so, great day. Time to get a cold fruit bowl. And some coffee after we hydrate up.