“LANCES RIGHT” MAXES OUT LEAVING THE LINE UP EMPTY!

I can't even surf for a full day. I have a 60-year-old back and a 30-year-old body. Bless his heart. You know when I got my spine surgery? Yeah? When I was 28. 7. They said I had the neck of like a 55-year-old athlete. What? Yeah, it was so bad. The boys are massaging each other as we surf. Every time before they massage each other, apparently. I don't know what it is. But it's just, they go on trips and they do that. Me and Ivan are gearing up. Everyone's gonna go out. It's the third day of the swell and everyone's fried. The swell bender is going on. It's huge. It's rolling through almost every set. From the third reef. The wind's kinda weird. We're hoping it cleans up. Jack's gonna go on his beach march. Kalani's gonna be on the water again. I'm back on the 7'2". After experimenting with the 6'0". Last night it was way too small for the size of it. Hopefully we surf into the window right now because the wind's kinda weird. The boys are still doing masseuse work. And we're gonna get out there. Do you ever get in on those massages? Sometimes. Hi bro. Ready? The best boat captain in the world. The swell has completely cleaned out the beach. Huge. There's not a soul in the water. And Lance's is 15 foot. Mr. Cool's on a 6'4". And if Mr. Cool's on a 6'4", you know it's big. Because he's usually on his 5'11". Current's going nuts out here. It's definitely windy, but there's nobody out. And I think the inside's still barreling. That's a long paddle. That paddle took about 7 minutes total. No longer. Whoa, go Ivan! That thing's crazy! Junker Ivan! That's a funny one. Ivan's going stoiker. Oh! It's a stoiker! Oh my gosh! Oh, go Nate! Oh my god! F*** yeah! Go Kieron! Oh, let's go! F***! I do not know, that thing was crazy! Got one. Really good one, and then a lot of sitting. We had a moment where it was just the boys for about an hour, and it was like kind of pumping and everything. Got a few really sick ones, so. That was worth it all, that's the dream. Just you and a few friends scoring big barrels, so we're just so blessed and so stoked. We got that little window, and this time there's some cold fruit. Some cold fruit because because it's hot. That 7.2 felt so nice. Still missing it. Guy's getting old. Almost just got sucked straight over the surgeon's table. Which would have been a bummer. How did that work? Oh no! Hammer! Kieron's like, oh yeah! He's like, oh, hide the camera! I walk up, Kieron just starts going like this. I was like, this guy's ruining his own joke. I'm like, what are you doing? Oh, you were out there? Right here? Kieron's big joke. It looked sick, you went underground on that one. Yeah, that one felt... And it spit so hard. I hope somebody was somehow over there, but I doubt it. It looked good from here, too. From here it looked good. Yeah. That was a fun wave, I was not expecting that. You got two offensive ones. Yeah, it's just, I was like... Did you see the guy go over the wall? Yeah, he was... He was like... Did he hurt himself? No, he went on head and he went right back on. Oh, ****. He was telling me... He was on a mission. He's like... He backflipped down in the barrel. He's like, I want to get Kieron. I'm like, just wait. I'm like, you'll get one. Nice going. I like your style. I thought I'd have you. You got to work on your poker face, Kieron. Kieron was rooting his own... He didn't say a word. Are you all through? He hit the water bottle. Oh my god.