Left Hand Triangle Neckerchief or Headscarf Free Crochet Pattern Workshop ~ Easy Crochet Pattern

Hey everyone, it's Daisy from crocheteverafter.com. No, this is not the smallest triangular shawl. This is actually a neckerchief slash headscarf free pattern workshop that I'm going to be making up for you. It's made with lace weight yarn, so it's this nice, soft, thin fabric that's great for summertime all the way through winter. So we're going to have some lace yarn. And a 4mm hook. Alright, we're going to get started on the neckerchief. With this pattern, we're going to be making a triangle and it's going to go from the point out. And we're using linked double crochet. And why linked double crochet is good is because it creates a solid fabric. You don't have the holes that you normally get in between double crochet. So once you learn how to do the linked double crochet, it's really easy and it's pretty It gives a pretty cool fabric. Now one other thing that we're going to do is we're not going to use chain 3's. So this is the first row of what we're not going to do. So I'm just showing you the difference that you're going to see. So in this one, I used a chain. So I chained. And I use three of those chains as my first double crochet, and then I double crochet three times into that first chain. Now I'm not going to use this because I can't link these. So this is a regular double crochet, see there's holes in between, when you pull it apart you Here you can see each double crochet. I don't want chains because it's difficult to do a linked double crochet into chains and I don't want this big hole where the point of my triangle is going to be, where all those double crochets were worked into. So instead of using the chain 4 beginning, we're going to use a magic adjustable loop. So you can use this for more than just circular projects. You can use this when you want kind of a pointy beginning and you need a nice closed hole. So just like a regular magic adjustable loop, I hold my yarn in my hands and try to come a little closer since this yarn is very small and twist over, just fold your hand down to cross over grab where that crosses and then reach through with your hook and grab your working yarn. Now, we're not going to do a slip stitch. I usually like to slip stitch my magic adjustable loop, but because this is lace weight yarn, when I go to pull it closed, sometimes that slip stitch gets right in my way, so we're not going to do it. So we're just going to pull up our loop as if we were starting our double crochet. So this is going to be just kind of a tall chain, and it's going to work into... Our second row, so don't worry too much how it looks at the beginning. So we're just going to pull up our chain, hold on to your loop. This is going to be the hardest row. Once we're done with this row, everything's easy after this. So have patience right now. So pull up this row, yarn over, pull up your loop, yarn over to get ready for a double crochet, and then hold on to where you pulled that loop up from. The reason being is it's going to want to pull back down when you insert your hook into your magic adjustable loop. So I'll keep it from shrinking back down. So pull your loop up, yarn over and pull up a loop, then work your two loops off for double crochets. So point down, push through your shaft, yarn over and pull through the last two. So you can see that that very last loop is very tall because that's that loop that we pulled up. But once we work into it on round two, you won't even notice. So now we need to link this. So this very first one's a little difficult because we have that long chain, but you can still see where that yarn over from the first two we pulled through, how it crosses over the front there. We need to work into that to link this double crochet and every double crochet after. So what I'm going to do is I'm not yarning over, I'm going under that loop that's crossing in front. Then I'm going to yarn over and I'm going to pull up a loop just through that loop. So I pull up that loop and that's going to count as my yarn over for my double crochet. So now I'm going to insert my hook through the magic adjustable loop, yarn over and pull up the loop. Now I have my normal three double crochets on my hook. I yarn over and I pull through the first two and then I yarn over and pull through the second two. So this first round is kind of a round, it's more of a row. It's kind of difficult because it's very jumbled, it's not working in rows or working off this magic adjustable loop, but once you get through it, it's going to be really easy. So now we're going to do another double crochet. And you can see we have that horizontal loop coming across that double crochet. So again, we go underneath that loop only. Yarn over and pull up a loop, so that's just like our yarn over. Now we're going to go in and bring up a loop and work off two at a time. Through the first two and now through the second two. The reason I'm using this hook, this wooden hook, is really great. for lace weight yarn. Lace weight and cotton, they're pretty slippery, plus the lace being so small, it's kind of difficult to always keep your loops a good size. The wood creates more friction. For the yarn so I can keep my loops the size of my shaft, which is what I want to do. I don't want to create really loopy stitches and this wood helps to kind of grip the yarn. So if you have a wood hook, I recommend using it for lace weight projects. So again, we're doing one more double crochet in this magic adjustable loop. So we're going across that center bar. We're going through that center bar, pulling up our loop. Now we're going to go through the center. This is how we're going to work every single linked double crochet. So you'll see next row how we work into the actual stitches and not a magic adjustable loop. So now row one is done. Doesn't look like much yet. We have to pull our loop closed and you'll see how it creates this nice closed pointed beginning. So instead of our holy beginning over here, With that big hole that's offset because we have to work all of our stitches over a little bit, now we have this nice closed hole beginning. All right, so now it's time for our pattern repeat. Row two, we're going to begin our pattern repeat. The repeat's not going to make too much sense right now because it's only, we only have four stitches, so row three will make more sense. So when you look at this, we have four stitches, we're going to start off with a tall chain. So that's how we eliminate those turning gaps, you can check out those tutorials to learn more about that. But we're going to do our tall chain, so we're going to lift our chain up, yarn over and pull through, and that's going to get us up to the height of our double crochet. It's better to be shorter than taller with your tall chain. So if you make it really tall... And it's going to be taller than your normal double crochet, you want to shorten it. So if I make my regular double crochet in my first stitch, you'll see that my tall chain will stick out, and it's supposed to be pretty much invisible, we don't want that big sticking out piece. So make your tall chain shorter than your actual double crochets if you are having trouble Getting them just perfect. So I always go a little bit shorter because it makes it more invisible. So make it about a half double height. So lock that in with a chain yarn over and pull through. And then I'm going to double crochet, just a normal double crochet in my first stitch. So if you have trouble when you're working with the lace because it's very loopy and lacy, just turn your work on your side and look for those top loops. So you can see your V right there, so you go right under that first V, pull up your loop and then double crochet through. So now we're going to do our linked double crochet, but this time we're doing three of these in this next stitch, so we're starting our increases. So we're going to put our hook through that middle bar, and this is our pattern repeat. We're going to do one double crochet in our first stitch, and then we're going to do three double crochets in our second stitch on every single row we come to. So we do our first one. Then we go back into that bar, there's our bar right there coming across, pull up your loop, then go back into that same stitch, nice big hole for us, yarn over, pull up, and then one more time. You notice that I kind of keep my hands on my project, blocking stitches a lot, that keeps my loops the same size, so I don't get really big loopy loops, so I kind of keep I'll keep my fingers on all my loops when I'm moving around. So they don't start getting out of shape and pulled out. So then my pattern repeats as three linked double crochets in the second to last stitch. So we're already at our second to last stitch, so we're going to do another three in the next stitch. So again, go through that middle loop, find your next stitch, go through two and two. Then we'll be at our last stitch which was our kind of interesting tall chain double crochet that we made with the magic adjustable loop and how I said it had that tall loop. So when we work into this because we're just doing one linked double crochet in this last stitch as the pattern states, you want to catch that loop. So you want to get under that big loop that you made when you were doing that very first double crochet. And then pull up your loop, and that's going to pull that loop nice and tall, that tall loop that you made, so that it's not as noticeable when you make your last double crochet. So this pattern is made like this with the three double crochets. Usually you don't put three in kind of a triangular piece, because three usually will make kind of a corner. But, I want this, because we're not using a lot of yarn, I want it to fan out very quickly and I want it to be a really easy pattern with just one stitch repeat. So I'm doing three on each end, and at the very end it's going to have kind of a slightly turned out appearance, it's not going to be like a pointy triangle, but it's going to be curved at the ends because of this type of increase, which should give it kind of a cute little flare when you tie it. So this was made this way so it'll be nice and easy so you don't have to remember to put, you know, two increases in between. You know, you don't have to count your stitches. You just have to know your first two stitches and your last two stitches and everything in between is just linked double crochets. So for our round three we're going to start with our tall chain. I'm going to do our We're going to do our double crochet in the first stitch. So this pattern repeat will make more sense now because it's supposed to be three linked double crochets in your second stitch, which is what we're doing now. Actually, they usually help me get my yarn in the place I need it if it's not going. I do three here and then my pattern says to double or linked double crochet across. To my last two stitches, that means once I finish these three increases in this second stitch, I'm just going to double link double crochet once in each of the stitches that I come to until I get to those last two. So I just I've done the three and now I'm just going one in each stitch across. So this is a lot easier than trying to say, um, increase and then DC and, you know, to the middle and then increase again. That takes a lot more concentration. And I'm trying to make this an easy project for you. Oops, careful you don't slip stitch when you pull that loop through. So I've already gotten across, I just have one more to that second to last stitch. Let's see how I kind of work my loops on and off. It looks like it's... Good idea. You can try it. Then I'm going to do three. So when you're looking for your stitches at the end, make sure that you're not counting that tall chain because that is not a stitch. You're looking just for your V's. So we have one and two left. So we're doing, oops, I'm doing regular double crochet. We're doing three double crochets in the second to last stitch and then one in the very last stitch. So once I finish this row, I am going to leave you, because that is basically what this pattern is going to be. You're going to double crochet in that first stitch, and then do your three increases, and double crochet across, or linked double crochet, two in there. Then when you get to those last two stitches, do three more. In that second to last stitch and then a double or linked double in that very last stitch and we're just going to keep doing that every single Row and it's going to grow and grow so you can kind of already see After this row that it's kind of turning, it's almost like a fan instead of a triangle. You can see how it's kind of fanning out. So those three increases give us kind of a little fanned edge. So it should look really pretty when we're done. So after a few, I'm going to work on some more rows, and then I'll come back, and I'll show you how to read the gauge for it in case you don't really need a gauge for this project, because it's a small accessory. But if you need to learn how to read gauge on linked double crochet, this should help you. So keep going. Start your next row. These are pretty easy to count the rows because you can see the lines in between them. So we have one, two, three already. So just keep going with those three increases. One in the second stitch and one in the second to last stitch. And we'll meet up in a little bit. I've gotten quite a few rows into my neckerchief here, and you can see I'm trying to lay it flat so you can see how the ends are kind of fanning out, so you can see how it's kind of curving around here. So once I finish, it'll be nice and wide, enough to tie around your neck, but it'll also give you kind of a cute end tie, because it's going to have that little flare at the end instead of just a point, you know, boring triangular point. But I wanted to show you how to check the gauge, I said I would help have you check that just so you could learn how to do it. So with the link double crochet, it's pretty difficult to find each stitch to say where it begins and where it ends. So when you're doing your gauge, and I always use my Susan Bates Knit Check, the metal, I like the little cutout where I can put my swatch into so I can see automatically how How many stitches I have without having to kind of... figure it out from the ruler standpoint. But if you are having trouble, if it's a stitch that is difficult to tell where one begins and one ends like this linked double crochet, an easy trick is to turn your work so you see the top of your stitches because those are easy to tell where they stop and where they begin. So I just put my gauge finder And I go right where one stitch goes into the other. That's right where they meet, and that's going to be the beginning of one of my stitches. And then I count across. I count all the Vs. So I count 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, and this lines up really well. I have 9 all the way across. So I would say 2 inches equals 9 linked double crochets. And then I go for my rows. The rows are a little bit easier to tell because you can see the lines that Separate them. The way that this is made, it kind of gives it like almost a little ripple effect because of the turning of the rows. So I just, once again, I line up where the rows meet, right where that line is, and I lay it in there, and then I count up. So I have one, two, three, four, five, and six rows. So, if my gauge says 2 inches equals 9 DCs by 6 rows, now you know how I found that measurement. So, if you're working with something that you have to meet gauge, usually garments or hats, because they have to fit a certain way. That's how you're going to do it. You're going to get your stitch check or your ruler or whatever you have on hand and count those stitches so that you know that you're within gauge. If your stitches, if you have 10 stitches for 2 inches when it's supposed to be 9, that means that your stitches are too small. So go up a hook size so that it will widen your stitches out. If you have 8 stitches, your stitches are too big. So go down a hook size and that will shrink them down. Now for rows, check out my golden loop method tutorial because the rows, if your gauge is This stitch is perfect for your stitches but your rows are off. You're either making your rows too tall or too short, and using the golden loop method will help you to fix that so that you can make gauge for the height that your width is off. I mean if your width is perfect but your height is off, so check that out if you need to. This project, not so important, but I'm going to put the gauge in the pattern just so you guys can have it on hand, but that is how you're going to check gauge. I'm going to go back and I'm going to... Keep working on my neckerchief until I get to the end of my yarn, and then I will show you what we got. Okay, so I finished my neckerchief. I got to row 31, so I have a total of 31 rows, and I just need to cut my end. I had just a little bit of yarn left over, so this was a perfect row to end with. Because I could not make one more if I tried. And the size on it is great. I tried it. It easily ties around my neck. And it's actually the perfect size for a head scarf too. So you can wear it, you know, covering your head. I'm going to go ahead and block this and weave in the ends. So I'm going to show you how I block this to get it to, it's pretty much like, it looks good enough to use right now. But I have a little bit of how the edges kind of want to curl up a little bit. So blocking is going to help relax the yarn and keep it from wanting to do the little puffs that it's getting right now. So you can see I can flatten them out with my hand, but if I kind of pick up my thing again and lay it down fast, you see it poofs up again. So I'm going to block this and you'll see how that works out. So I'm going to show you how I block it with The blocking mats and pins right now. Okay, so I've got my neckerchief, I've weaved in the ends, and I'm getting ready to block it. So I have some cool water. Um, always use cool water. Don't use hot water with natural fibers, otherwise you might accidentally felt your project, and that would be really sad after all the hard work that you've done. Um, and I also have this packet of Soak. Soak is my favorite brand for hand washing and for blocking objects. I have never tried the scentless variety, and I had gotten this in... My yarn box, I think last month it was, so I'm going to try out the scentless. I'm going to do a separate video on how scentless this is and how well it's working, so you can check out a little review video for that as well, but I'm going to pour this into my water, and I'll show you how we're going to block this. Okay, so I'm going to rip open my packet, and let's see. Was it a good opening? I think we have a full opening. Then I'm just going to squeeze it all into my water. You can see it coming out. And I'm going to give it a little stir to mix it in. I can use this whole thing. This is a single, single serving of Soak. So I'm just going to mix it around just a bit. It's not going to suds up or anything because it's a very gentle wash. Alright, so it's all mixed in. Now I'm going to put my neckerchief in the water and you don't want to like squish it or swirl it too much because all of that can cause felting. So when you're doing blocking, when you're soaking your project, just push it into the water and hold it down there for a little bit. You'll see little air bubbles come up and eventually it should just stay under the water. If you have a floater, just get, you know, a piece of cutlery or something from your kitchen and weigh it down to keep it all underneath. But you're going to let it soak for about 15 minutes. And that's going to open up the fibers as they take in the water and allow them to relax so that when you pin them and it dries, it's going to keep the shape that you pin it to. So we're going to let this sit for 15 minutes and then I'm going to get my blocking board. And my pins and wool start blocking. Okay, I've been letting the neckerchief sit for about 15 minutes and I'm going to pull it out. And when you pull it out, you do not want to squish it all together. You don't want to like wring it out because then you're going to have that same felting problem. So just kind of grab it and squeeze. Then I'm going to lay it out on a towel and squeeze out the rest of the water with the towel. So I'm going to squeeze that out and then I'm going to get out my blocking board and start pinning it to the shape I want. I've got my blocking boards out. I'm laying out my neckerchief. We've, um... I'm going to be pinning it. I want to make sure I keep that nice curve that I made with my increasing. So I'm going to keep that curve. I'm going to start at my point down here. That way I can make sure that I'm working my way out to keep it exactly the shape that I want to. And make it nice and flat. So what I'm going to do is I'm just going to go all the way around the outside, pulling it, you know, stretching it slightly to get it to lay the way I want it to. And the actual soaking helped relax the fibers so that it's already not, I didn't even flatten this out, I just laid it down. And you can see I'm not getting that ripple that I was getting before. So I still want to pin it though to make sure that I get all of that ripple out. So I'm just going to go all the way around and stretch it and shape it how I want it to lay and then I'm going to let it sit until it's completely dry. So don't unpin it until you know that it is completely dry. So put it somewhere out of the sunlight so it doesn't get sun faded. And we'll come back when it's all dry and you'll see that when I unpin it, it's not going to move. It's going to keep the exact shape that I pinned it in. So I'm going to finish pinning and I'm going to let it sit out and dry now. Okay, my scarf is all dry. It's ready to be unpinned. So I'm going to go ahead and just start pulling the pins out. And as you can see, when I pull them, nothing moves. The scarf stays exactly where it's at because it's been blocked and dried. So when you block something, especially these natural fibers, your project is going to stay in the shape that you block it. So this yarn blocked beautifully. The project looks fantastic. I'm going to do an up close of the project in just a second after I pull all these out. Okay, so the neckerchief's all complete. You can see how well it's laying when I just drop it down. It doesn't have any of, it doesn't have I don't have any of the rippling, so when it's dropped it just lays flat. The stitch pattern, as you can see, is nice and hole-less, or nice and solid, with just a little bit of a lacy feel to it, with the little tiny holes that you can see through it, but the linked double crochet definitely gives it a nicer feel than just regular double crochet, so I highly recommend that you use the linked double crochet stitch when you When you make it, If you have any questions about the pattern, go ahead and leave them below and I will answer them as quickly as I can, but thank you all for watching!