Mens Basic Beanie Crochet Pattern Tutorial for Beginners (FREE Easy Beanie Pattern)

Hey everyone, it's Deja from crocheteverafter.com. Today we're doing a viewer request video, and the viewer wanted just a plain, basic male beanie. So I created this little skull cap. It's just basic half double crochet worked in a spiral, so it's very simple to do. It works up in a couple of hours, so you can make it very quickly. Um, I used some heavy worsted weight yarn, you'll see the actual yarn in the pattern in the link below, and a K, a USK hook, which is a 6.5mm, so that also helps this work up really fast. So if you have any requests, make sure you leave them below in the comments as well, and I can add you to my viewer request list. But if you're ready to make the beanie, grab your yarn and your hook and the pattern, and let's get started. So to begin our beanie, what we're going to do is we're going to make a magic adjustable loop and put eight half double crochets in it. So for my magical, magical, my magic adjustable loop, I usually hold my yarn with both hands. One hand has my tails and the other has my loop. And the hand that has my loop, can't talk today, I'm going to turn down. And that's going to create a little loop on top here. See my tail is pointing that way. And my working yarn is over the top. Now what I'm going to do is I'm going to reach through the center of that loop and grab my working tail and pull it through. And then I'm going to secure that with a slip stitch. The slip stitch is purely optional. I just like to do it because then I don't have to worry about anything falling out when I start my work. So, I'm just going to start half double crocheting into this loop. You can do a chain 2 if you want beforehand to give you some height. I'm going to do it without so you can see what it looks like. Because if you watch my half double crochet magic adjustable loop video, you'll see that I do the chain 2. So this time we're just going to do 8 half double crochets. So to begin, we're going to yarn over from back to front. We're going to hold on to both. Ends of our loop so it doesn't get away from us, and stick our hook through the center. We're going to yarn over and pull up that loop. So now we have three loops on our hook, and we're just going to yarn over from back to front, and then turn your hook down as you pull through. Doing that will help your hook slide easily through your stitches. So, yarn over again, go back through the center, and pull up your loop. If I don't point it down, when I go to pull through, you'll see that I get caught on everything. If I put my work straight down in my loops, I slide easily through. Also notice that every time I make a loop or I pull something through a loop, I always push my loops to the shaft of my hook, and what that does is it creates even size stitches that are all consistent. If I were to work everything on the throat, I would have really small stitches and tight stitches. If I pull out as I'm working, unless I can pull my yarn out as As I did the first time, I would have to pull it out exactly the same for every single stitch. Those stitches are going to be a little loose and inconsistent as well. When I keep my loops the same size as my shaft, I'm much more likely to have even stitches. So I'm going to do 8 half double crochets in this loop, and then we're going to close Close it up and that's going to be the beginning of the top of our beanie. Now, if you're new to counting stitches and you're not paying attention as you're doing them, what you can do is the front of the stitches might be a little difficult to count, plus that very first one could be a little squished down like mine is. The best thing to do is turn your work sideways and you'll see the tops of your stitches which Look like the letter V. So you're just going to count your V's to figure out how many stitches you have. So we have one, two, three, four, and five, and my little six squished half double crochet down there. So I've done six, just need two more. And I keep all of my stitches real close together on my magic adjustable loop. That keeps them from getting too spaced out. If I started making stitches all the way over here, and finishing them off, they would be really far apart, and then when I put them together, they're not going to be the same size as my others. So I have eight stitches, so I'm going to hold onto this stitch, the last one I made, right where my loop comes out of, and I'm going to grab my tail and I'm going to pull. That's going to help you close it down. Now we're not going to join our rounds, we're going to work in a spiral, and you'll see how we hide that at the very end when working in spirals, but we're going to go ahead and start on round two without joining our work. Okay, so for round two, we need to increase our stitches by double. I have eight stitches and I want to go to sixteen, so I am going to put two half double Half double crochets in every half double crochet that I have. Now, you can see over here, everything's kind of very muddled and weird looking. It might be difficult to point out which is your first stitch. So use your counting again to find the first stitch. Count backwards and count eight. So one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, and eight, which is my little squished half double crochet here. So if you don't like that squished half double crochet, put that chain two at the very beginning of your magic adjustable loop. But once you see it, you can figure out, you can see the V of it, so just count backwards so you don't miss one of your stitches. So I'm going to yarn over and then I'm going to go right into the top two loops of that stitch. So I catch both loops, so both sides of my V, and I yarn over. Pull through, and usually if I pull sideways, I get through easily, I don't point it down yet. When I get to this part of my stitch, this is when I point down and pull through. What I'm going to do now, because I'm working in spirals, and I don't want to lose track of what I'm doing, I'm going to put a stitch marker in that very first stitch that I just did. So remember, we look at the V, just stick it right in the top of there. This is just a little spirally stitch marker that you can find at any yarn store. Don't get the ones that don't have an opening, those are for knitting, and if you get ones without the opening, you're going to have to use some plastic scissors to get them off of your work. Those are made just for knitting, where they are able to slide them off after each row. So always get the open stitch markers. Now I'm going to do another half double crochet in that same stitch right there. So you can see the hole, I just kind of pull on it to open it up if I can't see it very well. And you'll notice that we did kind of a little jump. We're going to start spiraling out because we didn't join our rounds. So you see kind of a little jump up here, not too bad. As we go around, it will become less noticeable. It's very noticeable in the second round, connected to the first round, and then after that it's fine. So again, we're going to go into our next stitch, and we're going to half double crochet in there, and do another half double crochet. To keep the top of our beanie flat, we're going to be increasing every single round by 8 stitches. We're just going to space them out as we go. So you'll see what I mean when we do our next round. So keep on doing 2 half double crochets in each of these 8 half double crochets of our previous round. I came in my last stitch before the End of my round, remember I put my stitch marker in the very first stitch. Some people like to put it in the very last stitch of their last round, so it would be like in this stitch right here that I'm working on right now. I don't like that because then I have to stop to pull it out. If I put it in the very first stitch that I start of the round, then I work all the way around without having to stop until I get to the beginning of my next round, which is usually when you're going to read your next round instructions, so that's why I always put it in the first stitch. So, anyways, we're at the beginning of round three now. So, I need to pull out my stitch marker. You can work around it if you want and then pull it out, but it's a little bit easier to pull it out before you begin. Now, remember I said we're going to increase by eight stitches again, but we have 16 stitches total. So, we're going to space out our increases by doing two double crochets in our first stitch. So, I'm going to yarn over. I'm going to do one half double. Put my stitch marker back in. I don't want to lose the place of the beginning, and I'm going to do another half double crochet in that stitch, and then I'm going to space out those increases by doing just a regular one half double crochet in my next stitch. So every other stitch I come to, I'm going to put two half double crochets to make that extra eight stitches that I need for this round to make it lay flat. So I'm doing two half double crochets, one half double crochet, two half double crochets, And that's just the pattern all the way around. So you'll see the pattern says H-D-C two times in next stitch, comma, H-D-C, so that means H-D-C in this next stitch, comma means stop, go to your next stitch, and then H-D-C. Then it says repeat that eight times, so we're just going, then you go right back to the beginning of those brackets, and you H-D-C two times in your next stitch, comma, go to I'm going to go to the next stitch, HDC. On my very last stitch, which is just an HDC or half double crochet, I'm going to pull out my stitch marker because now we're ready for round four. And again, we're going to start off with two half double crochets in our very first stitch. The first one, I'm going to stop and put in my stitch marker. It's a lot less counting or paying attention when you have that stitch marker. Otherwise you're going to have to count all your stitches. And hope you don't lose count because trying to count backwards and figure out where your increases are and how to get back to the beginning of that round can be pretty difficult even for a very well seasoned crocheter. So get a stitch marker or you can even stick a piece of yarn, just lay it right over your stitch as you're stitching it in and just pick a different color or even a scrap of what you're using and you can use that as a stitch marker if you don't have any on hand. So I've got my two half double crochets, now I'm spacing out my increases by putting a half double crochet in my next stitch, and one more in the stitch after. So I have hdc2 in my next stitch, hdc in my next two stitches. So that means do two in your first stitch, stop, and then do one in the next two stitches you come to. So that's spacing out, we're going to continue spacing out those increases so that our crown stays a circle. If we put them all, even though we needed to increase by eight, if we put them all on one side, if we just increase eight times right here, we're going to get a really funny looking beanie. So we have to space it out around the crown so that we don't, so that it stays a circle. So again, we do two in one stitch, then we do one half double in the next stitch, and one half double in the stitch after. And that's the pattern for this round, you just keep doing that all the way around, and at the end of this round we'll have 36 stitches, because every single round we're increasing by 8, so in round 4 just times that by 8 and you should have 32 stitches at the end of this round. And then the last 2 stitches of this round, doing 1 half double crochet in 1, and 1 half I have to double crochet in the second. And we are done with round four. You can see the crown lays nice and flat, so you're not going to have a funny looking I'm talking, um... point on the end of your beanie, and you can see the spiral happening. I'm working in a spiral and not in the round. In the round just means that you would join it up, so I would slip stitch right here if I was joining, except it would be every single row, so there would be no spiral at all. But now we are on round five, so I'm going to pull out my stitch marker like I always do, and then we're going to do two half double crochets in that very first stitch again. I'll do that first one, stitch marker, do another one, and now to space out our increases we're going to put a half double crochet in the next three stitches we come to. So one in the first one, one in the second, And one in the third. We're doing that eight times again, so at the end we'll have 40 stitches. We do two in our next, one HDC in each of our next three stitches. One, two, keep that up all the way around back to your stitch marker or whatever you're hopefully using so that you don't have to count out your 40 stitches as you go around. Last two stitches on round five, 40 stitches total. See we're still nice and flat. I bet you can guess what we're going to do next. We're going to put two half double crochets in that first stitch again. Stitch marker, whatever it's called. Back in and do our second. And then we're spacing out our increases by four stitches. So you can see the pattern. Every single round we're increasing that space by one stitch. The previous row, two the previous row before that, and one before that. All we're doing is increasing every single round by one stitch in between our increases. So again, we do two half double crochets in one stitch, and then one half double crochet in the next four stitches. Again, eight times round. Okay, so I'm just finishing up the last couple of stitches for round six. And we're almost to the size that we need to start working down the side of our beanie. double crochets in the beginning. My very first stitch, stop and put in my stitch marker, two stitches back. Now I'm breaking up those increases by five stitches. Because we're on round seven, we're putting seven stitches all together eight times. So we have one, two, and then one, two. That's kind of how I count my stitches as I work around. So if I'm watching TV or something, I either say like increase as I'm doing the increase, And then I know that I have 5 in between each increase, so I just count 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and then start over. Rather than counting all the way up to 56, which is what I would need to count to for this round. So we just keep going around, and we'll meet up at the end. I'm on my last stitch of round 7, and now I am ready to start making my beanie turn and become a beanie. What I'm going to do is instead of increasing, now I'm just going to start doing a half double crochet in every stitch that I come to. So I definitely want my stitch marker for these rounds because there's no discernible change from stitch to stitch. At least with my increases, if I got lost, I could kind of count back to my last increase. Now I just have half double crochets. So I'm going to be doing 56. Half double crochets all the way around, and I'm going to keep on doing that until the beanie is the size that I want it to be. So I'm going to do about two rounds of the half double crochet. Just normal half double crochet, and I'm going to show you that it takes a few rounds for your beanie to actually start cupping up. So after this round, you're not going to see a noticeable difference except that it's gotten a little bit larger, but it really doesn't start to... turn into a bowl shape until about three or four rounds in. So I'm going to show you what it looks like after a couple of rounds so you don't think that you're doing something wrong as you work these, I call them even rounds because you're just working the same amount of stitches. I don't know why I call it an even round, I guess because you're working an even amount of stitches every single time? I have no idea. That's just what I call it. So on these even rounds, I'm going to show you what they look like. Okay, I'm working near the end of round 9, which means I did 2 rounds of just 56 stitches. So I'm going to show you that you're still not quite seeing a whole lot of cupping to our beanie, so if I lay it out, I can lay it almost completely flat still. You see that it's kind of slightly bowing up. When it starts to cup a lot, you're not going to be working it this way with the bowl where it looks like a bowl. You want to flip it, because you can flip it either way, you're going to flip it out so that you're working around the outsides. It'll be a lot easier, and it's also the correct way to do it. So make sure you cup it the right way when you start working, and you'll always be on Maybe on the right side. But we're just going to keep on with these even rounds of stitches, 56 stitches a round until we get to the very end where we're going to put our single crochet border on it. So we'll go all the way to the very last round and then we'll meet up right at the end so I can show you how to taper the edge off because right now if we were to stop we'd have this I have this big jump right here. So we're going to taper that off, and then we're going to put on a single crochet border to hide it even more. Keep going around and around and around, and I'll meet you near the end. Okay, I'm at the last stitch of my last round, which is round 21. And now we're going to finish off or taper down this end, and then put a border of single crochet around the edge so we can kind of mask this big offset that we have. So you can see if I just pulled out my yarn here and fastened off, I would have this big gap from one stitch to the beginning of the round. So to mask that, what we're going to do is we're going to step down our stitches. So we have half double crochets, we're going to do a single crochet in our next stitch. That's going to bring down our stitch a little bit more. And then we're going to slip stitch in the stitch after. So what that does is gives us a little bit of a taper. To where it kind of meets up and then we're going to do our single crochet edging. So we have one more round, round 22, we're going to chain 1 and then we're going to single crochet right in that same stitch that we just did our slip stitch with. I'm gonna mark that with my stitch marker just so I don't get lost. And then we're just going to single crochet and we're going to do the single crochets It is kind of, not loose, but... Just make sure you're not tightening them down. That way you don't create a tight beanie or a tight ending on your beanie because your beanie should be nice and stretchy right now and you don't want to do a really tight single crochet border that's going to keep you from being able to stretch it out if you want to stretch it out. So at the end of this beanie we should have... About a 22 inch circumference unstretched. So that should fit any adult male pretty much. My husband's a 23 inch head and this fits him just fine. So it will stretch quite a bit so it can fit quite a large head. So just single crochet all the way around and then we'll join up at the very end. Okay, I'm just doing the last two single crochets. Now I'm back to my stitch marker, so I'm going to pull that out, and to finish off this beanie, I'm going to join with a slip stitch, so I'm going to go under that first single crochet that I did, pull through, and pull through the loop that's already on my hook, and tighten it down a little bit, and then I'm going to fasten this off. Then all I have to do is weave in my two ends, my beginning and my ending, and my beanie is complete. but that single crochet edging Just kind of made everything lay a little bit flatter so it's not so noticeable where that offset was. So when it's all folded up, it's nice and even all the way across, so once this is woven in, you won't even be able to tell where the rounds met up. Because we worked in spirals, there is no seam. So let me weave those ends in, and we'll take a look at our finished beanie. I'm going to show you how I weave in this end just so you can see how to kind of hide the tail. So what you do is go to the next stitch that you would normally crochet into. Just go right through that loop to the inside of your beanie so you can hide your ends. And just pull in. It's going to kind of pull all your stitches together so they're not as noticeable. You're not going to see that fasten off or anything. Then you're just going to run your yarn all over the place on the inside of your beanie, going back and forth, this way and that, and that'll help secure it. You can go in between the plies, which will help secure it as well. You can get a good couple of inches in there, so that way if it starts to come out at any time you can just snip that end off and not worry about... You'll still have lots of ends woven in where you can snip it a few times and not have to The entire thing popping out. This nice, um, this heavy worsted is nice and chunky so it's easy to stitch with. It's easy to sew with. It makes a nice big warm thick beanie. Plus it works up really fast. 56 stitches around is really little if you're thinking about making a beanie. Once you get it good enough to where you're happy then just cut that off. Now you're going to do the same with your center right here. So if you have any requests or any questions about this beanie, just leave them below, but thank you for watching!