BIG climber lead falls for science. You won't believe the forces!

Falling for science. I'm so nervous right now. You're good. Holy ----. That's the base! Hey! Have you ever wondered how much force is generated when a climber falls that weighs 300 pounds? Stick around and find out on this episode of How Not to Lead Fall. I'm anywhere between 110 and 115 on any given day. I'm going 285 and 300 on any given day. That's the size comparison. Size comparison. She catches me. A lot. All the time. So Tanner is almost twice as heavy as anybody we've had do these lead fall tests before on this channel. Put your prediction in the comment section, whether or not you think the force doubles on everything, and then reply to tell us how you did. In our other test for reference, the Blair would see about 1 kilonewton, the climber sees about 2 or 2.5, and the anchor sees 3.5 or 4. Now in Hard as Easy's video, they were trying to get the force on the climber to be 3 kilonewtons and they couldn't do it. Now Tanner did so much work to prepare to make this video. We were able to send him three Loner Linescale 3s that we just got because they're now in stock for the first time in 18 months since their inception. Our first gym fall video was literally why this was invented. There's a $20 off coupon down below if you like to nerd out on stuff, but he took the time to study how they worked, how to film horizontal, how to get all these angles, and record all the data. So you can't make videos like this by yourself, so thank you Katie, Matt, Chris, Lincoln, and Gritstone Climbing for allowing us to have this data that we wouldn't be able to have without them doing all this work. So in these seven tests, Tanner would fall on a light Blair, and then a heavier Blair, and then a light Blair would fall on Tanner, and they even anchored him to the wall, not allowing any absorption of the force, which is the climax of the tests. But in all of the tests, they used a fresh rope or flipped the rope, so there was never a worn out dynamic rope in the system. Now every time Katie belayed Tanner, they had an ohm in the system, and Edelred Ohm is a friction device that when you're leading and you need to pull rope up, doesn't really give you friction. But if you're falling, it'll help the Blair not get pulled up so aggressively towards the thing. However, you're only supposed to have about an 85 pound or 40 kilogram max difference between the climber and the Blair, and they've got double that. Free bonus tests we got in this video on whether or not that worked out for them. So just so you know, one kilonewton is 225 pounds of force, or 102 kilograms of force, and a carabiner will break at about 20 kilonewtons. And a bolt will break 20 to 30 to 40, 50 or 60, depending on the bolt, kilonewtons. And a dynamic rope, when tied in figure eights, the way they're tied in, can break at 14 kilonewtons. So it's nice to know how many kilonewtons you're putting on a system, so you know if you're super good enough or not. We're here to break gear for you, so let's show you how much force there is. Falling for science. I'm so nervous right now. You're good. Holy ----. You're good. That was the small one. 291 on line. So before he fell, his waist was about the height of the quickdraw, so this was the shortfall, but you can see how far he went down. And in the tests I've done, about 2.6 is as high as I've gotten, and hard as easy was trying to get to three kilonewtons, so the Blair would literally pick their feet up at the worst possible time, and they got 2.92. So worst case scenario for us is the best case scenario for Tanner. Now Katie saw the lower end force a Blair typically sees, and that's because she's being lifted up, it has the ohm, and she's only 110 pounds? 50 kilograms? And the highest force that I've ever been able to get on a quickdraw is 4.78, and that's because we Z-dragged, which added tons of friction and never lifted the Blair up. So he's getting slightly higher on that anchor than our worst case scenario. Now this next test, he's a little higher where his feet are right about where the quickdraw is. So with Tanner just a little bit higher, saw about 20% more force than our worst case scenarios. Not quite sure what happens if he goes a lot further than that, because that was already sketchy. The next test, they have Chris belaying him, who is 200 pounds, or 90 kilograms. So we went from a 50 kilogram to a 90 kilogram Blair, and the numbers are almost identical. Tell us why in the comments below, could be the ohm, could be the fact that Chris still got lifted up, could be maybe the way he blayed, I don't know. But the next test, they took the ohm out. So Chris got to know Tanner probably a little bit better than he was planning, but Tanner and the anchor saw a little bit less force actually. And there was more force on Chris, which is probably why he got pulled up the way he did. Since everything was super good enough to this point, they thought they'd spice it up a little bit by bolting the Blair to the wall. So there is no give. I'm zeroed here. Okay, you're solid? Yep. Three, two, one. Loose. Oh, ----! Shit! 4-4-4. 7-1-6. No, I've never had a hard catch when I fall, because even when someone's anchored in, they still lift off the ground a little bit. I felt that. I see some fresh steel. It wasn't there 15 minutes ago. It's there now. So I appreciate what people go through for science. I think Tanner set a record on this channel for what you can see in a real-life load at the anchor. 7 kilonewtons. That's impressive. For reference, cams will come off, right? They have a part around 8. Now, if you're trad climbing outside, you might have a little bit more rope between you and the climber, which technically absorbs more of the fall, even if you were also 290 pounds and falling further. So it kind of, like, gets complicated. But it's sure interesting to just kind of, like, watch somebody catch like that. Ugh. I don't want to belabor this point any more than I need to, but 2.63 is quite a bit on a belayer. Notice the belayer was the wall. I don't think you can really get that on a person. Because, like, some of this absorbs it. You always get pulled up a little, like Tanner said. So that's on the high end. And that kind of makes me feel better, knowing that it's only connected to a belay loop. And if you're ever curious what the MBS of a human is, it's more than 4.44. Now, there's only one other time on this channel that we have achieved more than 4.44 kN on a person. Now, I don't want to give it away, because I'll be making a whole video on that. Subscribe. But, uh, that didn't hurt nearly as bad as what Tanner felt, because it's force over time. And there was a lot more time that force was applied to our bodies. Tanner got the short end of that rope. Now, what happens if the same two people switch? What happens if Tanner catches Katie? 3.24. That's like a fart in the wind. That's nothing. I don't know how much force a fart in the wind generates, but that's approximately one Katie falling one body length plus stretch in the rope. Those forces are pretty in line with what we normally get when we do these tests. But what happens if Tanner belays Chris? It looks way different up here than it does down here. So, on Chris's fall, with Tanner catching him, are pretty much in line with the normal falls that we get. So, unless you're really trying to jack the number up by screwing your belayer to the wall. That sounds bad. Then, it's probably super good enough. Some people said the last two minutes of this video is the funniest part because of the bloopers. But, I wanted to show you this super good enough shirt we just got on our new shirt store. If you're in need of climbing gear, 10% of what you buy from ExtremeGear.org supports this channel. Now, Tanner's got some thoughts and we'll show you some graphs and charts before the bloopers. So, I think it's important to talk about context. Chris is probably considered a large compound. So, weighing in, I weighed today 290. Pretty much what average climbers are. So, when I generate force from a fall compared to a smaller climber, is that force exponential? Is there a linear pattern to what force is generated by the weight of the climber? So, when we take the video that Ryan did, so we kind of tried to replicate that. So, my feet would be right below the anchor. I think the other thing that is, you know, really awesome about this is just, you know, willingness to jump on board. I was watching one of his videos and he was saying something like, well you don't have to worry because no climber even weighs a kilonewton. And I just laughed. And I said, you know, I thought to myself, yeah, not all climbers weigh just a kilonewton or less. And so I shot him an email and said, hey, you know, I want to thank you for all the content you put out, but also, you know, just for the record, you know, I'm a climber and I do weigh more than a kilonewton, 1.3. He replied to my email and said, you know, if you're willing to take some lead falls, we'll make a video out of it. And so that's what we did today. All right. I want to say a huge thank you to Matt Hewlett, who is the GM here at Gritstone Climbing. Happy to help, man. A little nerve wracking, not going to lie, but pretty cool. Yeah, go ahead. What'd you feel from today? I felt I became very intimate with your rear end. I'm Chris Bailey. I'm the owner of Gritstone Climbing and Fitness here in Morgantown, West Virginia. This is West Virginia's largest, I guess, indoor climbing gym. Great community up here. And it's been like just seeing everybody come together, you know, has been really wonderful. And, you know, getting to know Tanning. So super stoked to participate in this event with you here today. Cool. Thanks, man. So I'd like to apologize and clarify about something I said in my last gym falls video. I accidentally said this wrong. No climber is more than a kilonewton. And that's not what I meant as it was received poorly. I was working with search and rescue people, and we're making some videos about that. And when you're trying to do some easy math on the spot, that you want to stay within a 10 to 1 safety ratio. It doesn't matter if you're small or big. It just kind of averages out. You with the gear on is roughly 225 pounds or 102 kilograms or 1 kilonewton. Because a lot of search and rescue stuff is very static. You're not taking lead. If you're doing it right, you're not taking lead falls in a search and rescue scenario. So after filming too much in one day and being in a rush and cranking out a video faster than I should have, that came out wrong. And I do apologize about that. But what's great about that accident is it led to the creation of this video, which I'm sure a lot of people are curious if somebody weighs more, how much more force is it going to generate? Because there are people like Tanner who like climbing. And they want to know that they can trust their gear and not have gear fear. And I just opened this up in the mail like an hour ago. And this is super cool. This is something you get when you get 100,000 subscribers. And it never really seemed possible when I was making slackline videos five years ago that I would get this far. But we've built this community up really well. And this video really inspired me because people went out of their way. Tanner went through so much work. The people at the gym went through so much work in order to make this video. And this is such a cool community. And so it's super cool to try to break gear fear for all these extreme sports. And I appreciate you guys because this wouldn't exist without you. Before we go, I want to show you a fun game that you can do with these. You can squeeze it to see how much force you can generate. What a load cell is, is basically a wire that goes up and down over here. And it has some electricity going through it. And when you change the shape of the aluminum body it's attached to, it changes how that voltage comes out on the other end. And it measures the little differences of that and gives you a number. Let me hit zero here. 0.56 3.9, 3.9, 4.0 Alright, let's see it. What's that number say? My turn. 1.71 I caught a cramp in my lat. Welcome to How Not to Highline. Where I teach you how not to do everything but highline. There's a few highlining videos, but the rest of it has nothing to do with highlining. Enjoy! And then I have a really annoying laugh in every video, you're going to love it. Hey guys, guess what? I gave up on a construction project and all I have is this framework left over. I'm going to make it seem like it was on purpose by calling it a drop tower. Wow. Okay. So your drop test thing rig literally looks like you are hanging people. Good to know. I know that they're called sound bites because the sound in your videos bites. I'm so popular that I wear all my own merch so people know that I'm cool. Down inside I know I'm a f***ing nerd. Did I ever mention how much I hate hats? You should totally buy these hats, because I don't f***ing want them. Yo, I got a lab. Hey guys, today I'm going to teach you how not to invest. Oh wait, that failed. Hey guys, in this episode of how not to get married. Sorry, how not to. So, how not to get sponsored. It helps when you insult every company that offers you gear. More companies will just come out of the woodwork to give you more stuff to insult. I am absolutely surprised how many videos you watch. I had no idea until you started roasting them. I'm lonely and I need more subscribers, so you should stick around. Give me that duration. Give me some likes, because nobody else likes me. And subscribe so you can like me more in the future. Right about, is it reversed? I think it's right there. Check it out.