TOSOT Mini-Split Installation [Electrical Emphasis]

Welcome to Bretley Built, I'm Brett, and today I'm going to be installing my Toso Mini-Split Air Conditioner. This Mini-Split does get delivered in two boxes. This is the outdoor unit, this is the indoor unit, and these are all the things that should have came with it, and there is also a list of these things in the user manual. The user manual does give you a very detailed process of how to install the unit, but it doesn't tell you how to do the electrical work to actually power the unit. It does suggest that you hire an electrician to do the work for you, but in this video I'd like to explain some things to you that might help you to feel a little bit more confident about maybe doing the wiring yourself. So let's start with your service entry panel. So coming out from the pole into your house, you're going to have 220 volt hot lines and you're going to have one ground line. The ground line is going to be generally a bare wire and it's going to come in and attach to a lug that's going to be attached to those buses. They're actually silver on the sides and they have all the screws in them, so that's going to be connected to the buses, they're called, and they're bonded together. And so this actually is essentially one piece of metal. And the two hots come into these lugs and they connect to these bars that your breaker is attached to. And so how this works is, let's say you have a toaster and from the toaster your wire is going to have a black hot wire, it's going to have a green ground wire, and I'm using blue but it's actually white for a neutral wire. So your neutrals connect to the ground bus, your greens connect to the ground bus, and keep in mind it doesn't matter which side because they're bonded together, and your hot wire connects to a breaker that you have attached to one of these pieces of metal. And so if you notice, this actually completes a circuit because the hot leaves the breaker from the 120 volts coming in, goes down to your toaster, you push the button, and now power goes through the toaster creating heat and comes back to your bus. And so you've just completed a circuit. So what's important about this is this is a 110 volt system. Even though it says 120 volts, the grid is required to power 120 volts, provide you with 120 volts each leg to your house, but usually devices are 110 or 115 volts. So they're a little bit less than what the grid provides. So what makes this a 110 volt system is a difference in voltage, zero volts at the ground, and 120 volts for your hot coming in. So there's a difference in voltage here of 120 volts. The toaster was a 110 volt device because it was only being powered by one of these legs. And so let's say we have a bigger device. Let's say we have a dryer. So with the dryer, let's say we have, and the dryer is going to be your 220 volts, 230, somewhere in there. It's going to be less than the total amount of voltage that comes into your panel. So in order for this to be a 220, 230 volt device, you're actually going to have two hot wires that come up into the box and you're going to have a ground wire that comes into the box. So I'm sure you know where the ground wire goes by now. It goes over to the ground bus. Now this is where it gets interesting. The reason these bars are shaped this way is because you actually need the power from both legs to power this device. So you can't just hook up two breakers on the same leg and then expect to power the whole 220 volt device. So what actually happens is you have a which is called a double pole breaker, which is essentially two breakers in one. And what it does is it actually attaches to both sides of the, both sides of the 120 volts that come in. And so it's going to look like this and hook up on one side, but internally it's actually connecting to one side and it's connecting to the other side of these bars coming in, providing 220 volts. So this looks a little bit different because you might be thinking that the power just comes back, the hot wires come out, provide power to the device and go back to the ground, but that's not actually what happens. So kind of an analogy for how the 120 and the 240 volt systems work is, let's say that you're out and you're, let's just say rolling a barrel. So if this is a 120 volt system, you're the only one pushing. So you're going to sit there and sit there and push the barrel and you're going to do all the work. With the 240 volt system, there's going to be you and there's going to be your friend. So what you're going to do is you're actually going to take turns pushing the barrel. So what you're going to do is you're going to take a turn and push and this barrel is going to roll halfway. And then your friend is going to take their turn and they're going to push it the other way around. So now this barrel has completed one loop, but two people have pushed. We're up here with 120 volt. You're the only one doing the pushing. So whenever you purchase a device, is it a 120 volt system or 110, 115 volt system? So we're only going to use one black wire to go into one breaker, which just has the one switch on it. Or are you in the situation where you're going to have two hot wires that are both going to be doing the work? And what you have in that instance, you call a double pole breaker. So what this breaker does is it actually connects to both legs. So it's providing 120 volts from each leg. And this double pole breaker is actually going to be connected together. So you flip it on or flip it off together. So I'm going to put a link in the description, but there's a technical specification sheet that you can look at for whenever you buy one of these devices. And this might actually help you determine what type of device do you want to buy? Do you want to buy a 220 volt device or do you want to buy just regular 110 device? So the data on the technical specification sheet is going to be very important when you buy the unit and when you're getting ready to hook it up. So as I'm looking at a technical data sheet, so for the power supply, you'll see that it says 60 Hertz and one phase. Don't really pay attention to those because all the power in the United States is 60 Hertz. And generally your house is going to be a single phase. So don't worry about that. What you want to pay attention to is the voltage. On the first unit, it has 115 volts. And so if I have 115 volts, based on what we just saw from the panel box analogy, with the two legs coming in 120 volts a piece, you know you're only going to need the single breaker. But if you go to the next unit, it says 208 to 230 volts. So you know to provide that much voltage, you're going to need a double pole breaker. So this says single pole breaker. This is going to be the double pole bonded breaker that turns on and off that powers two hot lines. So on the sheet, there's five units and you'll see that there's different voltages for each unit. They might be the 115 or they might be the 208 to 230. So whatever unit you get, you need to make sure that you buy the proper breaker. So just so everybody's clear on the max overcurrent protection, meaning the largest breaker that you want to put in the panel box to power your mini-split, on the technical specification sheet from left to right, you'll see that the first unit has 115 volt unit. Max overcurrent protection is 20 amps. So you'll know that you'll need a single pole 20 amp breaker for that unit. The second unit is a 208 to 230 volt unit. So you know it's going to be a double pole and you'll see max overcurrent protection is 15 amps. So that'll take a double pole 15 amp breaker. The third unit over is 115 volts. So you know it's single pole. That takes a 30 amp breaker. The fourth unit over is a 208 to 230 volt unit. So you know it's going to be a double pole breaker and it's max overcurrent protection is 15 amps. So you know that's a double pole 15 amp breaker. And the last unit, 208 to 230 volt unit, so double pole and 20 amp overload protection, overcurrent protection. And so that's going to be a double pole 20 amp breaker for that unit. So the one thing that isn't on the technical specification sheet but that you can figure out yourself is what size of wire to use with what size of breaker. So with a 15 amp breaker, you're going to use 14 gauge wire. 20 amp breaker is going to be 12 gauge wire and the 30 amp breaker is going to use 10 gauge wire. So I recommend using this Romex, essentially three wires in a jacket, has your black wire, your neutral, and your ground wire. So you'll run this to your device and it'll complete the circuit as the black wire will be connected to your breaker, will go out to your device, and then the ground of the neutral will come back to the panel box, connect to the bus bars. The white jacketed Romex is your 14 gauge wire, the yellow jacketed wire is your 12 gauge wire, and unfortunately I don't have any, but the orange jacketed wire is the 30 amp wire. So it's maybe a little bit of an odd convention, but the way that this Romex is described is by the gauge, so 14, 12, or 10, and it's described as a two wire. And even though there's three wires, the reason it's considered a two wire is you have the black and neutral, which are actually conducting the current, and then your ground is just there as a safety. So you just got your mini split and you have your panel box, and you have a 115 volt system. So you know it's going to be a single pole breaker, so you're going to have one black wire that comes over your mini split, you know you're going to have one neutral that comes from a bus bar over to your mini split, and you know you're going to have a ground wire that comes from a bus bar over to your mini split. And you remember how the circuit works, the current comes out of the hot wire, out of the breaker, comes over your mini split, powers the mini split, current goes back through over to your bus, through the neutral wire, and your ground's there just as a safety. So you're still going to use, and let's just say this was a 15 amp circuit, so you know you're going to use the white Romex to wire up the mini split. So specifically the unit that I got was the 208, 230 volt unit that's 15 amp max overload protection. So pretty straightforward, we have a black wire coming over to the mini split, and we have a ground wire coming over from the bus bar over to the mini split. But then where does the other black wire come from? The other black wire actually comes from the white wire in the Romex. So this might be a little bit counterintuitive because it's like where's the circuit complete? But remember the analogy of you and your friend pushing the barrels? Essentially what happens is each one of you take a turn at pushing the barrel. So at a 120 volt system where you're alone by yourself pushing the barrel, the 230 volt system doesn't need a neutral, they're both hot because I'm going to push the barrel, it's going to roll halfway, and then my friend's going to come over and push the barrel the other halfway. And so you're basically just taking turns powering this device. So please don't get confused about that concept with the neutral. Every single one of these Toso units are going to use a two wire. So whether it's the 10-2, the 12-2, or the 14-2 wire, they're all going to use the two wire. It might be this configuration if it's 230 volt, 208, 230 volt, or it might be the other way where the neutral is actually hooked up to the bus bar if it's 110 volt. So the unit that I have requires a double pole 15 amp breaker so I can use the white 14-2 Romex, but I'm actually going to be running this 12-2 20 amp wire and the reason is is if I ever want to upgrade a unit in the future I'll have the wire in place to upgrade to a 20 amp circuit and so I won't be overloading the wires. I'll make sure that I already kind of have the infrastructure in place to upgrade in the future if I want. So if an electrician was going to wire this up at your house, these are the things that they would need to get. They would need the wire, they would need a box, a shut off box outside, your double pole breaker, and you would need this whip that's going to go from this box over to the outside unit. Just a heads up for this whip, these connections that I got are half inch connections. So these are other tools and materials that you'll need for the installation. These spade terminals, you're going to use those when you connect the wires in the whip to the outside unit. This tool here is actually a crimper tool here at the end. I'll describe how that's used later. It also has wire strippers in here but I like having a pair of dedicated wire strippers and wire cutters and a non-contact voltage tester, a good electrical type screwdriver, volt meter, utility knife, electrical tape, hammer, and these Romex connectors. You'll at least need one of these, of this type here, to wire in the electrical or the information cable to the outside unit. And then I choose to use these other Romex connectors going into the other boxes. You're also going to want to make sure that you have a vacuum pump. Make sure that it has enough oil in it. You need an AC manifold set. You're also going to need a 5 16th inch by quarter inch male flare adapter. There will be a link to this in the description. This connects to the service port on the unit when you're getting ready to evacuate the lines. So if an electrician was going to do the install for you, they may have to run conduit along the outside of the house or they may have to run Romex through walls, maybe open up a drywall and run the wires out to get from your panel box out to that shutoff box. Luckily I have it pretty easy where my building is not finished yet and so I'm going to be able to run from this panel box, it's actually a sub panel, but I'm going to be able to run from this panel box out through this open framing and over to the shutoff where I mount this on the wall. So I'm going to start by getting this box mounted just like in your panel box there's knockouts that I'll be knocking out to run some conduit through the wall. The reason is this box is too tall to go between these ridges so it's actually going to sit on the ridges outside and I'm going to have a piece of conduit that comes in that I'll run the Romex through out to the box. I'm going to knock out this half inch knockout because this is where the wire is going to go from this box out to the compressor outside and I'm going to knock out this knockout because this is where the conduit is actually going to go through the wall. So I'm going to be running this plastic conduit through the wall it's going to have a coupler on it that'll fit through the knockout here and it'll get fastened down. This conduit is uv resistant this plastic conduit you put it together with this medium gray pvc cement you don't want this pooling up just get just enough on it to get it coated pretty well coat both fittings push them together and give it about a quarter turn and hold it together until it holds tight. Now depending on your situation this part may get very involved where you're going to run a wire from your panel box over to where you're going to leave the wall out to your disconnect outside. I'm just going to come up that framing up above the door and then kind of come back where I have a cavity here you might actually have to cut out drywall or run conduit on the outside. I'm going to be using a five-eighths spade drill bit to drill through these studs make sure whatever spade bit or drill bit you're going to use it isn't too big because you don't want to take away too much material out of your joists or your studs. Whenever you're doing this type of work make sure that your wire lays pretty flat it'll go a long way if you have to have this inspected just when everything looks clean and neat it'll look like you actually know what you're doing. You definitely want to make sure that you leave enough wire outside I usually leave about a foot because I'm the one that pays for the wire and wire is pretty expensive so what I'm going to do is I'm going to make a mark with a sharpie and I'll push it that far through and this is convenient if you're working by yourself so you know you have enough wire out there and then get this secured pretty close to where it comes in the wall. You're going to want to staple the wire about every 16 inches the wire should be stapled snugly but don't hammer too hard down on the staple to where you damage that jacket so I definitely don't want to be short with my wire coming over to the panel box here so I'm going to overestimate by about 10 feet. So I have the power turned off to my building this like I said this is a sub panel so if you're going to put this in your house obviously you'd have your main panel and your main panel is going to have a big shut off up here or down here it'll be like your 100 it'll be either a 100 a 150 or a 200 amp most likely main breaker that you'll flip off so go ahead and take the cover off. So after removing the cover the first thing you want to do is get a non-contact voltage tester and what I do is I go test them with something that I know is hot so right next door I have a building I went and plugged into an outlet made sure it was working so now I can come over and start touching everything here and make sure that there's no power anywhere this is where the power comes in so obviously I'm going to test here but you know just kind of move it around a little bit they're pretty sensitive so they'll tell you if there's any power in the box. So there's a few different types of Romex holders that you can put in the box these work really well and they're really easy to install this is what I usually use so I don't have the time to go through it in this video but if you look at my other video when I installed this panel you'll see that the neutrals and the grounds had to be separated here in your main panel that's not the case but on a sub panel you have to have your grounds and neutral separated so this ground wire is going to end up on this bus bar over on this bar side. Once again make sure you see copper come out the other end okay tighten it down make sure that it's made a tight connection one other thing to note about wire copper wire is that work hardens so the more that you sit there and bend it back and forth and more brittle it gets so you don't want to be constantly in here digging around pushing everything back and forth moving everything and try to keep it as still as possible. So just to reinforce this concept this is a double pole breaker what that means is it's essentially two breakers in one these are a lot of these are just single breakers but these two breakers are actually bonded together so when you flip one the other one goes off or when you turn one on the other one turns on so this is important to power your device make sure that you have these that are bonded this is a 15 amp I don't know what you can see that light isn't adjusted very well but so that means each leg is feeding 15 amps and remember I have to use a 15 amp breaker because that's what my max overload protection required is the largest breaker I could use is 15 amps. Here are the two hot lugs that come in so this is what I drawn on my drawing they were up top but you see how these bars come down and there's these little bars that come in off from the main bar so what each one of those do is they provide power to these breakers that are attached to these. What this double pole breaker is going to do is it's actually going to catch this leg and then this metal here is actually coming off from this other leg or off from this other off from this other piece of metal here that's that's hot and so what that does is it provides 120 volts from one side and 120 volts from the other that's what makes your 240 volt circuit. So there's screws their screws are going to hold the wire here and there's little tabs that hook into the back and then there's these metal tabs that grab down on these brackets here on these bars here so then you just hook the back and you just push down I should have made sure that was off that's something else as well obviously I know the panel box is off but whenever you go to install these make sure that these are off and then like I said I usually loosen up the screws so it just makes it easier to install and this seems like it's in place here so to install these wires give yourself a little bit of extra room again kind of bend it around and give yourself a straight spot on the wire strip them off about three quarters of an inch half an inch three quarters of an inch you don't want a lot of copper sticking out the back I'm going to tuck the wire in the back and you want to get these snug but you don't want to break anything this is a lot of plastic in here okay it's pretty tight same thing with the next leg okay wire is pretty tight so we're not quite done yet there's one last thing we have to do so we have all these other white neutrals in here but then we have one white hot so what's required is you have to wrap electrical tape or something to make this wire black to make sure that somebody that opens up this panel knows that this is black you don't have to do anything with the whole wire but you do need to put some electrical tape or something on here that's black yes we have the tape on here so you know it's a hot wire I probably use a little bit more tape than was needed but just to kind of drive the point home so I have my cover back on and I went ahead and labeled my chart so I know which breakers belong to the mini split so I'm going to get started on installing the actual unit itself so I'm going to be following the user manual extremely closely to the best of my ability a couple things that maybe I should have mentioned before and I guess is a good time to bring it up you're going to see two sets of wires that they sent with the unit so the one set has a black a white and a ground so that looks really similar to the Romex that I just installed so this is what they wanted to use as the power cable I would absolutely recommend installing it the way that I did with the disconnect and run Romex to your panel box and connect it that way so at this point we're not going to need this wire but the control cables have a ground brown wire I guess it's actually a red wire with a brown jacket and then a white wire black wire and this is what we're going to be using as part of this process so I've already taken the outside unit outside and set it on the cement pad where I'm going to be mounting it I'm going to use a cement pad because my building is metal and the structure doesn't really facilitate an area to hook that metal bracket that sits on the side of a building and so I'm not to mount it to a cement pad we are going to have a link in the description to a bracket system that we recommend and I also sent it out there at this point because it's supposed to be upright for three hours to make sure all the oil drains properly in it so if you had it hopefully you didn't have leaning over or something but just have a set in place so it can just kind of even out level out and then when we're ready to hook it up it'll be ready to go so the unit sits up like this on the wall and there's ports on the side that if you need to remove them to run the lines out you can I'm not going to need those because I'm going to go straight out the back they recommend or I guess require that there's at least six inches of distance from each side and at least six inches to the top this is where your filter is at and they want 98 and a half inches from the floor up to the very bottom that seems to me like the one requirement that probably the hardest to meet is the floor to the bottom of the unit so starting with the bracket on the back and there's a screw here in the middle that you'll remove to go ahead and mount this on the wall that's right here but if you leave this bracket here and you start out your six inches and I know the first stud that I have is 11 and a quarter so 11 and a quarter on the wall obviously it's not going to give me the required six inches but if I come out 27 and a quarter then that'll that'll let me hit my first stud this will be my next stud and then obviously I'll have six inches here so I'll be in good shape there I'm going to have the lines come out the back in this corner so I also want to measure here so off from the edge of this bracket so when I'm out the edge of this bracket I'm going to come off about four and a half inches and maybe up three inches put a hole here in the wall and then that'll allow me to cover up all the lines here the hole won't come out over the edge here and I'll be able to push all my lines off the wall straight out of the back so in section three connect the wiring of the indoor unit it gives you this notice to have an HVAC or an electrician do the wiring this is why I went through all the painstaking process at the beginning of this video is to help you understand how to do all this wiring yourself so for this it says use a screwdriver I wouldn't just pulls right off there's a screw here you take that out and then you're going to have your four terminals in here it'll connect your four wires so there's not really any way to look down in there to see where these go so what I'm going to do is carefully carefully use a piece of Romex wire fish it down around connect these to it fish it back through and then I'll make all my connections there's this little strap here you want to make sure that you get back in place because this is what's actually going to hold the wires in place they don't get yanked out just a little clip that just goes in there and holds these down it just looks kind of hard to fish these in they do give you a wiring diagram the n1 is the white or it has the blue collar on it the black is the two three is the red wire with a brown collar on it and then the green goes to your ground screw underneath the screw there's a little metal plate these are just going to set right underneath that metal plate and this plastic moves quite a bit here so be really careful and just make sure you get that collar back on properly okay when you're all done it should look like that okay I'm starting to roll in my refrigerant lines but be really careful with this step not to kink anything so I have these line wrenches and these are pretty handy they're just like a box wrench except they're just missing just a part to where it can slip over the line and move on to the nut so when you connect these don't try to force them get them just to kind of lay in there against one another and then tighten the nut up so we're going to get a hand tight and then we're going to tighten it down pretty good there are torque settings on here but I'm going to go ahead and be really careful and just pull it tight same thing don't force it just let it kind of just lay in there now the power cord your lines and your drain line are all going to get wrapped together with this tape so the next step is to drill a hole through all the way from the inside to the outside and you want the hole to be about a five to ten degree slope so then as condensation builds up around the unit it'll drain out that drain line so I'm going to drill a three and a half inch hole through the drywall on this side it'll still be covered up by the unit and then from the outside I'm going to drill the two and a half inch hole there's a tolerance is like 2.2 inches or 2.8 inches that you want the outside hole to be I'm just drilling a bigger hole on this side because I want to be able to have more clearance to bend the pipes around just since this is a metal building and I don't want any burrs to cut anything I did put some electrical tape around the hole there I'll take it off and actually put some sealant around it when I get all the when I get that big line through so I think this is kind of a two-person job we're going to start feeding the lines through my wife's going to be helping me she's going to start fishing the line through from the inside then she's going to come out and catch them as I finish bringing the unit up and set it into place so if you mount the outdoor unit up off the ground you have to use the drain plug mine's going to be right down to the concrete so I'm not going to install the drain plug I have the unit where I want it so I'm going to go ahead and mark the holes slide it over and drill my holes and put my anchors in I want to be really careful not to tip this back and forth because I've had this sitting upright so everything is drained down to the bottom the way they want it so I have everything ran down the wall I'm going to go ahead and get my lines connected up here what you want to do is use a pair of channel locks or a pair of vise grips because you don't want to really be putting a lot of torque on that fitting there so try to hold that still take these caps off once again just kind of just kind of let them sit on there and lightly thread the fitting on so next what I'm going to do is evacuate these tubes I'm going to hook up the vacuum pump to them so since these are in a loop it's going to pull the vacuum out of both lines so I'll get that set up okay I'm going to go ahead and get my manifold gauges set up make sure everything's off so I have my manifold hooked up the yellow line goes to the pump your blue line goes over to the unit here remember you need this special connection the link will be in the description so I follow the instructions turn the pump on for 15 minutes got it to negative 30 and it's been running for 15 minutes shut it off isolated the line with the blue valve now I've been waiting for a few minutes it hasn't moved so I'm going to wait another few minutes and if it doesn't move I'll go ahead and disconnect everything and put the refrigerant in it so full disclosure this is actually my first time using any of this equipment here the pump or the manifold set so kind of learning curve for me that part honestly I would suggest looking at other youtube videos and seeing how they do it this is kind of a trial and error thing for me looks like it's going to work but what I really wanted to focus on in this video was electrical work my gauges have stayed steady so I know that all of the air and moisture and everything has been evacuated out of the lines so I'm going to go ahead and disconnect this and put the pre-on through it okay I'm going to put the cap back on so inside here are five millimeter allen wrenches so I have my allen wrench I'm going to go ahead and open these up there just comes a point to where they stop put the caps back on so there are two sets of screws there's four screws at the top and there's three screws at the bottom so the three screws are going to go to your power going in and the four screws up at the top are going to be your control wires and they're going to be wired just like in the manual just like they were at the at the inside unit I use one of these connectors to connect in my control wires so this connection is just like the whip you'll just want to make sure that the screws are facing out towards you so they're not difficult to screw in okay this is going to work for the control wires so I'm going to go ahead and tighten up the connector here so the wires that came with the unit have these spade terminals on them and they just go underneath that plate there and the screw just goes in and holds the plate down so since I have this whip these obviously aren't going to work to hook in here and I wouldn't even try to do it that way so you're going to need to buy these spade terminals and this is actually 10 gauge wire that came with this whip if you buy a whip without the wire you're going to need to get obviously get your own wire I don't know if I'd get Romex as the braided wire and this is what I recommend I would just get the flex terminal the whip with with braided wire already in it so you are going to have to have a pair of crimpers to make this work properly so up here at the top you'll see that it's color-coded based on the size of wire that you're going to crimp I have the yellow spade terminal connector so I'm going to use the the yellow slot here to crimp this down and I didn't hook up these control wires yet because these go in front of these of the power wires so I want to make sure that I get these power wires on first make sure there's a little bit of wire sticking through press down until you can't press anymore and then pull on the connection make sure that it's not going to come off there's a line one and a line two under here and then there's your ground we'll go ahead and hook these up okay I'm going to go ahead and get the control wires hooked up now I'm using again is the diagram that's in the user manual so to wire up these disconnect boxes you're going to have your wires that are coming from the panel box that's our 12 gauge Romex here and there is a diagram on this little plate that goes in here to protect the wires and everything and it has a load line so this would be your load this is your line and there's another one line load and then here's your grounding bar and so of course your grounds just go up to your grounding bar your line is always your wires coming from your panel box so your line you're going to take one wire up to the line side another wire up to the line side doesn't matter which which line goes on which side which wire goes on which side that's not going to the unit doesn't care which wires on which side all that cares is that there's 120 volts going to each leg so on this side is your load that's what's going to be drawing the power so you just take one wire up to the one lug the one wire up to the other lug and essentially all this is doing is just transferring power say from the black wire up to the line down to the black wire that's the load and like I said I could have easily put the red wire over here the black wire over there doesn't matter what's important is that your line wires go to the line lugs and your load wires go to the load lugs so just to stress this again on the white wire that we're using as a hot wire wrapped electrical tape around it all of our wires are secure so I'll put the cover back in place and for now I'm going to leave this disconnect in the off position I'm going to go turn the power on make sure that all of the power is correct go into the right spot and then once I'm ready I can turn this over and turn this disconnect on provide power to the unit and if anything goes wrong I'll be right here to turn it off so I turn the power on inside so right now what I'm going to test is the line lugs against the ground so right there 122 volts the other line 122 volts now right now we should be getting no voltage across these because we haven't turned the box on yet so at this point there's no connections being made so everything looks good in this box all the connections are tight put the cover back in place okay I'm going to go flip the switch over on the disconnect and I'll test these wires okay I'm getting 122 volts from ground to the first line and 122 volts the other line now what I should get between the two lines here is 240 volts yep I'm getting 244 volts I'm going to replace the cover and it has this weather seal so you want to make sure you get it up tight against the unit here I'm going to turn it on and try it out okay so I don't know if you can see it you probably can't but I have the powers on there's a little red button that looks just like the button on the remote a little red button for the power so I'll hit the power temperature comes up and it does say that there's a delay I have it in heat mode right now okay the fan just started up and when I went outside the compressor is running so right now I set the unit to cool mode I have it set at 61 degrees here on the remote so they do recommend that you let it run for 24 hours just to work out any kinks from the factory and so I'm gonna keep it in cool mode for a little while then come out and when it gets colder and turn it back and turn it into hot mode and make sure that it runs all night it's supposed to get pretty cold tonight so that should keep it running so I'm kind of a stickler for how this looks so I'm not really happy with the way my install looks right now but I am going to put a cover over this maybe the next month or two to keep the snow off from it and also they didn't want you to expose to install this in direct sunlight so that's another reason why I'm going to be putting a cover over it the sides will be pretty open to make sure there's plenty of airflow but there will be a top on it and also with these coils I'm not an HVAC technician but they said that they don't really like these coils rolled up like that vertically like I have them I've seen tons of people do it that way I'm actually going to take mine and they're actually going to be more horizontal when I get my building my little cover built I'm going to build a little bracket to hold those in place as well and then I'm going to re-insulate all these lines so it'll look a lot different a lot cleaner when I'm done so the unit's been running more than 24 hours we went through the initial 24 hour period didn't have any problems and we had it on the cool cycle for a while and it had no problems blowing cold air when it was 70 something degree day and tonight it's pretty cool about 38 degrees and it's having no problems blowing warm air something to note about these units they don't generate heat what they do is they take ambient heat from the outside and pump it on the inside and then to cool they take the ambient heat from the inside and pump it outside so I hope this video has helped you understand how these tow soap mini split units are installed and hopefully it gives you a little bit more confidence and information on how to complete this process by yourself I'm really happy with this tow soap mini split unit so far and I look forward to getting my garage insulated so I can have a more comfortable workshop