Adding 4 EXTRA Cameras to Your Toyota Tacoma

Today we're going to be showing you the ultimate off-road camera setup for your Toyota Tacoma. We'll be installing a front, left, and right blind spot cameras along with a full-screen rear-view mirror monitor with DVR and backup camera. After the install we'll go over the entire system along with the previously installed Stinger 10-inch high-ten infotainment system so that you can see how it all works. The camera system that we'll be installing will be going on Project Great White, the truck that we'll be giving away at the end of the year, plus $15,000 cash. If you guys want to get yourselves entered to win this truck, make sure to check out the link in the description below. We're here with Mike today. He's the man that's going to be installing this system on our truck today. How's it going Mike? How are you? Good, thanks for having me, Mateo. Dude, thanks for being here, Mike. Why on earth are we installing this on the giveaway truck? So first off, I heard you mention that this is an overlanding off-road project, right? Guys, this isn't just for off-road, okay? You're going to come accustomed to this thing using it every day you drive this vehicle. You're going to be able to see blind spots with this. You're going to be able to see front camera view angles, things that you haven't seen before in a more friendly environment from your infotainment system. Wow, so it's not only off-roading. Not only are we going to be able to take advantage of what off-roading will be. Not at all. This is something, like I said, everyday use. It's everyday use. A lot of your new vehicles today, Mateo, have these camera systems built in and we're doing this from a basic entry-level truck, now giving it high-end features. Giving it more eyes. Absolutely. Mateo, you said you have the Hi-Ten system in here, right? That's correct, yes. Okay, so what we're going to do today is basically advance the Hi-Ten. We're going to unlock a lot of the features that the radio has in it. So it's got a four camera switcher built in, so we're going to take advantage of that. We're going to make it work all the way around the vehicle. And again, I gotta say that this is blind spot detection. So this isn't bird's-eye view. So we're going to give it extra eyes, like you said. Let me ask you this. I'm really interested to know, when I turn my turn signal on, will it activate the camera? Absolutely. That's amazing. That's incredible. We'll give it another feature, which we call parallel parking assist. When you go from reverse to drive, it'll fire that front camera and leave it on until you hit 7 to 10 miles an hour. And that way you can also see the front. So if you're, especially down here in Miami, where it's really hard to park, right? So having that feature is going to give some adaptability to this vehicle. But in the off-roading sense, now we can fire that front camera and now we can see that hill climb or that descent using that front camera, seeing out beyond the front bumper. Even when you have a spotter and you're not trusting him, you'll see what... Exactly. You can see what he's talking about. Or even not have a spotter in certain situations. Not recommended, but... Yeah, not recommended. Exactly. Cool, man. So these are the cameras that are going to add on to the 10-inch high-10. Yep. What's this here? This is the front camera. Okay. This is your blind spot cameras. So the the P-CAM BS-1N's and then the P-CAM 10-FF. This is solely dedicated for our front camera operation. And I saw that it had some lights here on the side. Is that night vision? It's infrared. So it just gives it the ability to give more light when it doesn't, when it can't build light. That's awesome. Now what about this? This is a complete standalone system. So let's just say we didn't have the high-10 and all the cool camera features that we're getting ready to add on, right? We can utilize this guy to be a standalone reverse camera system. So I know that the project is gonna go over to some more adaptations. You're gonna add a lot more gear to the back of this truck, right? Yes. We're gonna make it really hard to see now using the factory mirror. That's one of the huge things when you're upgrading the rear end of the truck. You can't see past it. That's what this is gonna come in. Now we're gonna be able to do a clear view of what's behind the truck. Giving back that rear view that's already got a 50 to 60 percent obstruction just from the headrests and people that are in the backseat, things of that nature. We're gonna give this an unobstructed view. And this is not a mirror. This is a legit screen. Yeah, this is a 9.3 inch edge-to-edge screen. And we can put it in drive mode so we can constantly see what's behind us and reverse. Just like if you were looking in a rear-view mirror. So a hundred percent of what you're seeing is what's actually back there. Absolutely. The other thing we can do is split screen. We can see front and rear simultaneously. We can see just front. From this screen? From the DVR. Yeah, oh yeah. This thing's like super action-packed. Plus, like I said, it's got that DVR. So now it's recording. It becomes a safety factor. Driving safety is critical in today's driving world, right? Accidents all over the place and everybody pointing fingers who's at fault. This records who's at fault. Alright Mike, you ready to install this? Let's do it. What's gonna be first? First we're gonna do the camera system to upgrade the Hi-10. Okay. And then we're gonna come back and we're gonna do adding the Clearview camera. Awesome. And if you guys want to skip the install part of this video, make sure to use the chapter markers below. Let's get started. The tools you're going to need for this install are the following. Some connectors. A fish rod for wires. For this video we just used a big zip tie. About 10 feet of 16 gauge primary wire. A small pry tool. A Phillips head screwdriver. A Torx key set. Electrical tape. Wire crimpers and cutters. Some pry tools and a drill with a 10 millimeter socket. Alright, step one. We're going to take down the knee bolster and then the rocker panels. The kick panel piece and then do a door panel removal. And this will show you kind of like how to get behind the panels and run all of the wires. So in this shot we're going to remove the two 10 millimeter bolts underneath the dash. And one that is right here in the center. Right off the edge of the airbag. Remove those and then we're going to grab this panel. We're just going to gently pull back until it unclips on both sides. You're going to see the thumb screw in the top of the kick panel that we're going to be removing. This will allow us the removal of this panel so it doesn't grab that corner. So now we're going to remove the rocker panel here which will allow us to remove the kick panel piece we took that thumb screw out of. Remove the kick panel piece. Next we're going to remove the 10 millimeter bolt that was hiding behind the kick panel. This will allow us to finally remove the knee bolster at the dash. Here we're going to start removing the clips one at a time. Okay so again unclipping and then set this guy down out of your way. So now we're going to remove the door panel. We're going to start off by taking the clip off the top here. It'll be some white clips. We're gonna have to pry these back out and apply them back to the panel. We'll get those out towards the end of the install. Behind the latch is a panel that covers up a hidden screw and inside the door inside the pocket is usually a piece of carpet but this one's been removed already and there's a screw back here. Removing the screws using your panel tool try to get up underneath an edge and remove this piece and then unclip. There's a thumb depressant. Remember a previous shot we had some remaining clips we already removed two of them so I'm going to show you how to try to get one out without dropping it. So we're going to kind of get our panel tool behind the clip pry towards you and then very carefully we play operation and we just dig the clip back out and we're gonna apply it back to our panel. This will be so it's ready to go back in at full factory presence. So one last clip to remove before we take the door panel off and it's back up here in the corner it's a little pressure pin and we use our panel tool and lightly press in on the on the center. Once we've lightly pressed in again not pushing the pin all the way through we're gonna take our panel tool and pull the pin back out with both pieces attached. Again remember we press the pin in to remove it so now we got to reset it so we can reinstall it once we do final assembly. So just simply press the pin back through so it's sticking out of the top and that way it'll allow us to put the pin back into place. All right now with all the screws removed and our pin removed we're gonna remove the door panel. This is where the fun comes in so again don't be scared because the door panels on here with a little bit of force. So we're gonna grab down in the corners where you can get your fingers around the back of the door panel and you'll feel a crevice that you can grab the door panel to and simply just gently pull towards you. That pop allows you to know that it's released from the door. The back of the door panel there's two rods that run through the back of the door panel. One is the door latch release and one is the locking mechanism release. We're gonna actually get behind the door and we're gonna remove those cables so that we can take the door panel off. So now we're gonna pull back on the door panel about a 10 or so degree angle and lift straight up and then you'll see the cables exposed from the back. So again here's your cables that you're gonna remove. We're gonna remove them real easily by simply pulling out and then pulling out of the groove inside the actual terminal itself. So again pull out and then push that around and it'll remove. Again with those cables removed you can now remove the door panel. For the next step we're gonna remove the speaker and then we're gonna remove the mirror and this is so we can route our cable accordingly to get to get the camera signal into the cab of the vehicle. Again we're gonna remove the speaker. You need a 10 millimeter. You can use this on a ratchet or a drill gun. So now that you have the screws removed we're gonna remove the clip. So simply press the little thumb depressant here and pull up on the clip and then when you remove the speaker pull out from the bottom and then slide down and that will allow the clip not to get broken on the exit of the speaker. Door bodies will have actual stickers over the 10 millimeter bolts. We've already removed two. Some doors you'll see this so just simply put your finger in the middle of the hole press it you'll feel it pull back a little bit and then just peel it off and kind of stick it out of the way. This clip we're going to remove. Now without mirror power assembly is free. So now we're gonna remove the 10 millimeter bolts and take the mirror off the door. This is kind of a careful process. Do it kind of slow because the bolt can fall down inside the door. So again playing operation. Now this last one I like to grab the mirror just so when you get it loose it doesn't want to fall. And again getting that out just ever so carefully and then simply pull out on the mirror. Route the cabling through and the mirror is free. And now with the mirror off we're gonna flip it over and there's a cap on the bottom of the mirror that we're gonna remove. So getting your pry tool you're gonna find the seam and you're gonna get up underneath it and pry up in a couple different spots and it'll come loose. With the cap removed go grab your 764 drill bit and we're gonna drill a hole to run the wire through the cap. You want to center the hole in between where the camera is gonna sit. We opened up the hole just a little bit so that we can get that through and we'll pull our wire through. Alright see the 3M adhesive? We're gonna remove that and this is just gonna hold it in place while we get the screws set. So an easy way to make sure we get the camera in the right spot is follow the windbreaker angles and kind of line it up with the front edge and then just kind of take the same shape as the way they're going. In the kit is gonna be a bag with screws in it and a couple other pieces. We're gonna use the screws right now. With our screws that came with our kit let's go ahead and get them in here and screw them into place and we're not going to go with a lot of force. We're just using this to hold the camera in place. Again making sure that our alignment angle hasn't changed. Now that the camera is installed we can kind of press down the rest of the tape into the unit but the camera is now physically not going to go anywhere. Now with our cap and our mirror or our camera installed we're gonna grab our mirror we're gonna pull away the rubber and we're gonna start routing the cable through the open channel. Then you'll find the other hole in the other piece of plastic and you'll come through the red tape. So we're routing our camera cable through the grommet and we're gonna basically pull all of our slack through. So with that in place kind of start putting things back together and setting our cap. So as we set the cap we're gonna pull the remaining wire slack out of this and just carefully pull down. You'll feel the cap pop into place. The caps gonna line up and simply pop right back into place. So now we're gonna go back to the truck and assemble everything that we just did. Routing the cables through the factory holes, lining up the 10 millimeter studs, snap it into place and use one of your 10 millimeter bolts just to hold it in place while you put the others in. So we put that 10 millimeter bolt in to hold the mirror in place while we get our other our tools and put the rest of the 10 millimeter screws back in place or the nuts back in place. Put our stickers back over top of the holes. Alright in this shot we're gonna remove the clips. One, two, three. This is the power harness that goes into the door. This is so we can pull all the harnessing back through the door and be able to route our cable efficiently. So we're gonna remove the rubber boot and pull the harnessing back through. This is going to allow us the ability to route our camera cable very efficiently. So now that's out we're going to connect the cable that connects to our radio and our camera. Understand that there's two sides of this harness right. We want the female side to go into our door because the cable that comes from our camera is a male connector. So again remember it's going to go female to male okay. So in this shot we're going to need some black tape and we're going to need a very long rigid zip tie and this is going to allow us to chase the wire through the factory grommet and keeping everything nice and hidden. There's already a nice little slice in the piece there. We're just going to shove this guy through holding it straight out and then you can pull your cable through the rubber grommet. Now here's where I take that male connector and I attach it to my zip tie and I use my black tape. Do a couple passes with this because you don't want it to come off as you're pulling it through. And I would tape over the whole connector and then just simply start pulling it through. Now that we're pulling it through once we get to a certain spot we're going to want to hand feed at least that cable into the grommet and then we should be able to pull it without it catching on anything all the way through. Now our cable is through our factory grommet and now we can start putting things back together. So now we've got our excess cable we've got to get into the truck. We're going to come back through the factory hole and we're going to bring all of our excess in and we're going to put this rubber grommet back in the factory position. So you've got a fair amount of cable you've got to get into the door. Make sure that we get all three of our cables back through. This is going to be a tight squeeze so try to do one of them at a time. Pull that rubber grommet until it seats back to the door panel and then we're going to do the same thing on this side on the actual part that goes through the door. So get our camera cable routed and then we're going to reseat our rubber grommet back to the door panel itself. Make sure that that's nice and watertight back to the way it was factory. So we're going to route the cable up behind the rain shield in this corner and you're going to stay tight to the factory harness. And then just put the rain shield back down and then we're going to connect the two connectors together. Line them up to the two keyways and simply snap them in until they click. And then we're going to wire tie up the extra wire and use some wire ties. These are not supplied in the kit so you'll have to find some. Clip off the excess and now we're ready to install the speaker and the door panel back. And enough to make this a little easier we're going to show you a way to do this kind of simple. Take this piece off the door and we're going to assemble the rods back on the actual door. Green is your bottom so set the ball, bring the wire through and clip. And then the white again set the ball, bring the wire through and clip. Get your four 10 millimeter speaker screws, your speaker and let's put this back in the door. Remember clip up and drop into the door. Get one or so screws, finger tight and put the clip back in. So getting our door panel we're going to drop our door handle back in, seating it back into place and then set our door panel on. Hang it on to the top rail, snap it into place making sure that our harnesses are where we can get to them. Alright so we got our switches we're going to go ahead and plug all this stuff back in. One little screw up here, one little pushpin up there, top of our panel up here and then our two screws and door panels back together. In this part of the install we're going to we're going to install our front camera, our PCAM 10FF. We chose to mount it below the emblem so there's a nice rectangular pad here we've already cleaned with alcohol so we'll go ahead and take the sticker top off and apply that and then we'll do wire management. We'll route behind the grill, through the headlight, around the edge of the battery and I've already got my wire pre-fished through the firewall so now I'll just pull everything back all at one time. Again we're going to route the cable right through the front of the grill. We're going to pull back our sticky, we're going to center that on there and then we'll come back and we'll do an adjustment once we can see it on the radio. Okay we're going to route behind the plastic pieces through the headlight and we're going to meet our other end of the cable over here and then again making sure that the T grooves line up snap in place and then usually what I'll do here is I'll wrap this with black tape so I make sure it does not come apart. We're going to just close this to make sure that the connector does not come back apart. You can also zip tie everything up nice and neat just to have better wire management. It's depending on your preference of install. All right in this step we're going to talk about grabbing our turn signal triggers because as you know we added the blind spot cameras to the left and right side of the vehicle. So now we want the radio to turn them on when the blinkers are turned on and that's what's going to trigger the radio. So we grabbed our wires here and we gave you a still shot of exactly how to find those wires and where they are in the panel set here. All right so in this segment we're going to remove the hide send radio that was previously installed and we're going to start routing our cables back up to the radio. So I'm going to get this guy out of the way and we'll get all of our cabling up here and we'll explain the next step. We are working on a shorter cable set for this. All right and so in this step you have some connectors that are in your camera box. We're going to go grab those and we're going to prep those so we're going to start connecting our cameras to each one of these wires. So this is our left door camera and we're going to connect that to the t-harness and then we're going to grab that one and we're going to connect that to camera number two which would be our left camera. We're going to connect that left door camera to camera number two. Camera number three will be our right door and camera four will be our front camera. So we'll grab our last wire here connect to our camera wiring and then have this and then plug all these in. Now just for best practice again I'd like to tape everything shut just so I know it doesn't come apart so we're not chasing down issues later on in our install. If you don't have black tape that's okay but again this is just something to make sure that we're not chasing down a problem after we're out there off-roading and things of that nature. In the main harness of the kit we've already given you power and ground to connect all your cameras back to so we made a little pigtail for all of our powers and all of our grounds and we'll just simply connect those back together. So this is where those cameras will get power from and it's right in our harness already done for you. All right before we put the camera back in there before we put everything back in the dash the front camera can be used as a universal rear or front. In this situation we're using it a front so there's two wires in the harness you want to find them they're white it says mirroring option we want to skin them back and twist the wires together to make it have the mirror effect and then just put a connector cap or some tape over that wiring and you should be good to go. All right once we've routed all of our cabling for our cameras and our trigger wires up through the dash the trigger wires specifically are going to go to a spot in the harness labeled triggers camera 2 and camera 3 and this is what's going to activate the cameras when you turn on and off your turn signals. Just remember the color of wire doesn't matter we just need 16 gauge wire going to the trigger wires that we denoted earlier in the video. All right today we're going to do our install of our MRC HD DVR clear view mirror kit. First off we're going to start out with grabbing our two fuse taps out of the kit and getting power and accessory from our fuse box. In this install we've already done that we got it from behind the high 10 because we were able to do the radio of simultaneously so but in a standalone situation you'll get the power and accessory from the fuse box which is right at the bottom of the knee bolster. So now we're going to route all of our cables to the mirror system that we'll be installing replacing the factory mirror. We're going to have our main power cable that goes to the mirror as well as our GPS antenna which we're going to set up here on top of the dash. Easiest way to do this would be to pull the rubber gasket back because we don't want to disturb the airbag and we're going to route the cables accordingly around that edge and don't worry once we get the install completed we'll actually pull back the excess wire and then set everything accordingly. So this is just to get it in place so we have know exactly how much extra we need. The 3.5 GPS antenna we're going to make connection to the female side of the 3.5 and this is all you need to do to complete it. Now we're going to grab our camera cable that goes to the back of the vehicle and we're going to actually find a drain plug that's underneath this carpet and we're going to run the cable through from there underneath. So underneath the carpet pull up the carpet pull up your your jute material and there's a rubber grommet right here. We're going to remove that grommet and make a small incision in it. We're going to make an incision in our rubber boot to run our cable through and then like I said we're going to feed it up from underneath. We're going to get our fish fish through the hole and we're going to grab the wire that we're going to fish to the back of the car and we're going to pull that through the grommet. So now with our wire through the hole we're going to bring this up giving us a little bit of extra slack. We're going to bring the wire off of the fish tape and we're going to feed it through that little slice we made in the drain plug and put that back in. And this will keep everything nice and watertight for you. So now we'll come back down here. So now that we have our cable up through the drain plug and that's all reseated we're going to route it up through the back of the dash following one of the factory wire harnesses and bring our wire up through the rack of the crevice. Now we're going to make our conamber connection and we're going to find those keyways, line everything up and snap it together. Now we're going to tuck all the wires up, wire tie everything up nice and neat and put this all back together. Now that everything's connected we're going to get everything nice and tucked up in here nice and neat and wire tied and put this all back together. Now that we have everything wire tied up we'll go ahead and make all of our connections again to all our switches. So just plugging back in all the appropriate plugs and then seat the dash back in and put it together. All right so now that we got all our wires put back together and our knee bolster back on we're going to go ahead and put our kick panel piece back in, putting our thumb screw back on and then that's all nice and seated and then putting a rocker panel back on making sure that we have it properly aligned. All right now that we have our cable for our rear camera exterior of the truck we're going to follow the frame rail all the way to the back of the vehicle trying to stay away from heat shield items, exhaust systems or anything that has movement to it like drive shafts or suspension pieces. So once we get along the frame rail you'll see the factory wiring harness. We can make a couple of different secure points just to keep the cable up and nice and tight and out of the way. In case you're for off-roading you don't catch any harnesses and undo your cabling. So again try to just keep it near the factory wire harness and you should be good all the way back. Now that we have some of these up we'll come back and just cut off our zip tie fly leads just to keep it clean as you go back. Now we follow the frame rail all the way back we're going to try to come up and over the rear frame rail to get around the gas tank. So I use the fish tape and carefully routed my cable out and around and again now that the fish tape is here I'm going to use that to just help guide everything. Trying to stay along the the wiring harness we're gonna basically follow the rest of this harness all the way to the back of the truck and come out by the bumper rear taillight area. As we're routing the cable to the back of the truck we actually want to come up near the rear light to be able to go back and go to this cable later because of the expansion we're gonna do the the bed rack system and the tent that's going to go on here later on. So again what we're gonna do is remove the taillight so there's three 10 millimeter bolts on the inside of the taillight. You can use your 10 mil drill I've already gotten them loosened and we're just going to be removing the taillight here. We're gonna take loose the connectors and get this light completely out of our way so that we can fish the wire up through here. Right in the box is an extra bracket we're gonna use that instead of the butterfly bracket that's mounted to the camera. This way we can attach this camera behind our tag. For the current situation again we are going to move this camera later on in the build. With placing this we got to make sure that the tailgate will still open so maybe putting behind the tag isn't going to be the right solution for this but again this is the short-term side of it we are going to move this camera later so we're just going to place the camera probably off-center for current and we'll come back and move this thing at a later date. It's good. We need to know where the reverse lead is in the truck right so we need a voltmeter showing a fluke 110 meter and we're gonna put it on DC voltage. We're gonna take one of our leads and go to the ground which is a bolt here behind the headlight or the the taillight and the other probe we're gonna test until we see 12 volts on the meter. So we're gonna grab one wire and we're gonna need an extra person to do this with the truck running. Driver put the car in in reverse so do you see the voltage change? No. So we're not on the right wire. Go to park test the other lead. Go to a reverse ah we see the voltage go to 12 volts or higher. Go back to park and we see that number change back down close to zero. Go back to reverse again and you see the numbers change to 13 volts. That means this is our trigger wire. The red wire is our trigger wire that's in the harness. The red lead we're gonna connect to the reverse lead that we just found previously and this is gonna change the angle of the camera and what it sees when it goes into reverse. So we're gonna connect the cameras together. You're just gonna line it up. There's some arrows on the top of the piece just line those two up and then slide it together till it clicks into place and then tuck everything back in here and connect our light and put her back together. Putting the 10 millimeter bolts back in. In this step we're gonna go grab a t15 so that we can undo the screw that holds the mirror to the window. We're gonna remove the screw and then remove the mirror and we're gonna undo the clip. All right now we're gonna try to work on hiding the old plug because obviously we won't we don't want this hanging down. So you grab a plastic pry tool and pull down on the header headliner gently and we're just gonna tuck this behind the headliner and out of our way. We're gonna continue to route the power cable till it goes to the mirror up behind the headliner. So just gently pull down on the headliner and tuck that up under there and again leaving yourself the connector because we still have to connect it to the mirror. So now we've got our mirror we're gonna install it. We're gonna put the mount back on the tombstone. Place it in place. We're gonna grab a Phillips head screwdriver and tighten down the screw and now it's nice and secure and do or do our final power connection and then we'll continue to tuck this underneath the headliner to completely hide everything away. So now that we're finished doing the MRC HD DVR, the side cameras, the front cameras and making everything work with a heightened. Let's grab Mateo and show them how everything works in this new Tacoma. All right Mike is it ready? We got some goodies for you. Show me what you got. All right the first thing you're gonna see is the new Clearview mirror. So right now we got the camera in a low position because again we just wanted to get the camera on here to show everybody how it works but later on when you have that obstructed view this is notice we have no back seats anymore in our mirror configuration. We've got our cameraman in the back seat we can't even see him in this image. I've always seen that like you have the whole headrest here like right you're looking at like 70% of this actual screen. What's that? So we have the mirror mode. Okay. Right so it's gonna give us our miles per hour and a compass. No way. Right or we can set it and when we have it in record so we're gonna stop the recording we're gonna go to settings and we're gonna put it in drive mode and this will give us an image full-time. Okay. So we can have two different operations if I want to have a discrete view where I don't have a constant image then I can put it in that position so it doesn't do that. And what happens if we're in that position I'm driving I want to see through the back I just. Yeah you could just simply if it was in that mode you could just simply reach up and touch it. Oh and then it would activate the screen. Oh that's cool. Put the truck in reverse and start to see the camera fall right. So now we're getting a downward angle. The cool thing here why we get that different viewpoint is again with this thing being up higher with that camera angle we can set how we see it. We see the parking lot. Right so now if I just tap this and then go back to drive you're gonna see get that image. Now when I go back to reverse see again we're gonna get that fall position. Why was it that you had to tap it? So I want to lock a position and we'll do that in one of the settings. We'll go back in here and we'll set that so that it just goes straight to that angle position. But again I think it's more important to do that once we get the rack on here because that position is going to be where you want it to default. So right now I think we should leave it until we do that because I don't want to have to go back in and reset it in that position. So some basic functions again when we're in record mode which we're constantly recording when we're driving. It's just rewriting to the SD card right. But what what's doing is that's capturing the front and the rear camera simultaneously. So I can just hit the switch button and now I can see the front camera or the rear camera. Or I can hit it again and now I can see just the front camera and we can adjust this to get the view angle that we want. So that way we can see let's just say we're in an accident right. Yeah. So as soon as this as soon as that the mirror has the impact it goes to a lock mode. A total of 50 seconds. So it's 30 seconds before and 20 seconds after. So the mirror can detect an impact. Yes. Mirror has a g-shock in it. Okay. It also has a GPS sensor in it so it it'll lock the coordinates of that crash as well. No way. So therefore you can hand it to the cop. You can hand it to your lawyer and things like that and say look I'm not at fault. It's also going to record interior audio. We're capturing at 1080p. I was just gonna ask you that. Okay so we're capturing these front and rear cameras at 1080p. We can have reverse lines so it shows us the reverse lines. Let's just say that the truck is parked at home and everything's turned off. Right. If the truck is impacted again the camera will turn on and record. So let's just say a burglar is smashed the window. Right. This thing's turning on and recording. Now it's only gonna see the front of your camera but it still records that audio. Okay. And it records the location and the time. Yes, yes. That's amazing dude. So just a really cool security system. Yeah exactly, exactly. Giving us the clear view so now no obstruction to the rear. 100% clear view. No obstructions to the rear of the vehicle whatsoever. As far as the back seats, anything that you're lying to look through. If you had the big wheel in the back in the bed or your glamping gear in the back, the whole nine yards, your roof racks, whatever would be in your way, we're beyond all of those points. Yeah. And that's extremely important. You know what I also realized? It's not only for us Tacoma owners and overlanders. This could work for anyone. Corolla, Prius, I don't know, anything. And that's the cool thing about this camera system. It's universally mounted. It's a tombstone style mount from behind and we give you different adapters in the box for most vehicles that are on the road. We're gonna come in here. We're just gonna show you now that we have the cameras hooked up. Always having our access to the rear camera and these are all ability that you can do on the fly. Okay. So let's just say we're out on location and we need to set up for a climb and I want to get that front camera active. Right. So I got my spotter out front but like we talked about now I want to be able to see what I'm driving into, what I'm driving over. Right. So I can have that and that way if I need to adjust my camera I can go outside and I can adjust the camera down a little bit to give me a better view angle. So that means that right now I can see, you know, how close I can get to this forklift before I hit it. I mean you're you're pretty much right there. Right. Whenever you need that parking. Right. Now we're driving. We're going for a ride and I'm gonna make a left-hand turn. You asked me about the blinkers, right? Will it turn the cameras on? Boom. No way. Right. So and then right we're gonna, oh crap I need to make a right-hand turn. There we go. And the cameras can be adjusted too within the pods. Okay. So there's there's little forks that they come with and you can adjust those. So you you can spend time later adjusting that to your liking and where you want that to be. So the angle that I want. Yeah. Okay. Perfect. Okay. And all through the high 10. This is all features that are built in. We just got to add the cameras. And then what's coming? I know something else is coming. So for you guys, the overlanding crew, we have a new camera system that's called the underbody camera. And you would ask me about, hey if I want to be able to see my differentials. If I want to see my different wheel pitches and things like that. That camera system can be tied into the high 10. Another four cameras on top of this. So I'll have eight cameras. You can have a total of eight. So that'll be a next project maybe we could talk about later. That's almost like cheating. It is. It is. That's incredible man. Alright ladies and gentlemen, the truck officially has eyes. Guess it does. Dude that was awesome man. How long did that take? How long do you think that would take to install? Probably roughly about an hour, hour and a half per camera per side. Hour for the front camera and then the MRC HD DVR mirror system. The clear view system. Probably about two hours by itself. Again provided they had the install of the high 10 prior like you did in this truck. Okay. As far as ease of installation, 1 to 10, 10 being the hardest, what would you say this installation is? Being a seasoned vet, I'm on a three. But for a novice or a beginner DIY, this is probably a solid seven. Seven? Oh wow. That's a big rating. It's a nice challenge. A lot of it has to do with when I say that is the removal of all the panels that we had to take off. Some people can see that as a little bit of a discouragement. But as they see in the video, it's really not that hard. If you guys enjoyed us installing the ultimate off-road camera setup on this Toyota Tacoma, then make sure to smash that like button. I want to know what you guys thought of the product. I want to know what you guys want to see in the future. So make sure to comment that down below. If you haven't already done so, make sure to subscribe to our YouTube channel and I'll see you guys in the next video.