Cosa Pensiamo Dei NUOVI Breguet TYPE XX? Li Abbiamo Provati

We were invited to Paris at the beginning of June, June 6, for an important launch. In Paris, we were told a story, a story of vehicles, a story of performance, a story of risk, a story of reunion. From the Breguet boutique in Via Montenapoleone in Milan. Hi guys, I'm Edoardo. Today I will tell you about the new Type 20. Let's start from 1911. Louis-Charles Breguet, bis-bis-bis-bis-bis-nephew of Abraham-Louis Breguet, launches his company. No, not in the watches sector, but in the aviation sector, in the aircraft. In fact, at the time, he produced aerodromes, which were the antennas of helicopters. His company had also performed well internationally and was very important for the French military navy during the Second World War, being the supplier. And what did Breguet watchmaking do? Breguet watchmaking was discovered in 1870 by the Brown family. The Brown family, however, maintained excellent relations with Breguet Aviation. In fact, some watchmaking instruments were actually inserted in these aircraft. 1,100 units were commissioned by the French military aeronautics, which had very specific characteristics. What? Black dial, luminescent indexes, therefore well visible. A very robust movement and a box to support accelerations and direction changes. Rotating dial and obviously the flyback function. After some tests, in 1953 the project was approved and the name Type 20 appeared for the first time. The curiosity of this story derives from the fact that Breguet did not choose this name, but it was the French administration that called this technical device. These 1,100 units are delivered between 1955 and 1959. As we said in our Incipit, we were talking about performance and risk. Why these two voices? Well, imagine the aircraft of the time, not exactly close to those we are used to today, not even in terms of instrumentation. On that trip to Paris, we were invited to visit the Musée de l'Air de l'Espace at the Le Bourget airport in Paris. We saw a lot of aircraft carriers, we also saw the aerodromes I was talking about at the beginning. Here, no type of technical instrumentation of the time is comparable to what we have today. So the watchmaking, once again the wristwatch, is to be understood not so much as an object of desire, an object to be carried on the wrist, but as a fundamental device to succeed in one's intention, in this case to fly aircraft. The flyback function was particularly interesting for a pilot and for the crew to speed up the time of use of the chronograph. This could have an impact on the speed of action during take-off, during landing and in some maneuvers performed in the air. Given the success of the Type 20 military, it was then decided to also produce a civilian version. And in 1957, the Type 20 civilian was launched. The funny and curious aspect of this other reference is that the Type 20 military is written in Arabic numbers, therefore 2-0, while the Type 20 civilian is a double X, therefore Roman numerals. This distinction allows you to understand the military and the civilian. Let's see the protagonists of this video, the two watches, the two novelties, the two Type 20s. The two references 2057 and 2067 may appear the same in terms of case and movement, but in reality they have different differences. Let's start with the military reference, the 2057. 42 mm diameter case, 14.1 mm thick. Black dial that creates a very effective and evident contrast with mint green indexes. Pearl crown, which has the charging function, the time setting function and the date setting that we find between 4 and 5. Bidirectional dial, channeled and non-graduated. Going into more detail on the part of the dial, we notice that we have the continuous seconds at 9 and the timer from 30 minutes to 3, which is larger, in this case we call big eye. As I said, the 2057, with these characteristics, is very faithful to the first 1100 units we talked about recently, those delivered between 1955 and 1959. The civilian version, the 2067, has significant differences with the military one, despite having the same case size and the same movement. The dial, dial and crown, if you notice, have differences. The dial, meanwhile, is bi-directional, but not channeled, but graduated. The handguards themselves have a different shape and have a different color, this ivory color, this yellow, which also gives it a vintage tone. There are three counters, we have the continuous seconds counter at 9, the same size as the military version. We have the 15-minute counter at 3, not 30, always positioned, as I said, at 3, big eye in this case. And we have the third counter at 6, which is the 12-hour one. Both watches are chronoflyback, so the function, as we said before, is essential for our needs. Caliber 728 and 7281, with the differences of the counters and their function. 36,000 hour alternations, so 5 hertz for both, column wheel and vertical groove for the chronograph part. Automatic, 60 hours of charge reserve. I would dwell for a moment on the dimensions of those that have been the changes of the Type 20 in recent years, to then get to look at these two new models. In my opinion, the actual change of times occurs in 2019, 2019 and 2021, on the occasion of the two Only Watch. Two types are launched, the first in the military 2019 and the second in 2021, let's say considered civil, because on the part of the dial we see a big eye and we see a different dial. The interesting thing is that the aesthetic codes of these two watches, and also of movement, are very reminiscent of the watches of the 50s. Brown dial in both cases and Valjoux 235 movement, which is the reissue of the Valjoux 222 used in the 50s. I am telling you about these two watches from 2019 and 2021 of the Only Watch, because in my opinion the company has done a bit of a back to basic. It said, well, let's reset everything, let's look at what was exactly the type and let's try to create a sufficiently faithful reproduction. Actually, I was expecting a watch below 40 mm at home level. This is certainly what I perceived before June 6, when these watches were launched. As we said before, the case is 42 mm. In my opinion, the company in this case wanted to send a very clear message. The watch must be robust, the watch must be solid, it must give this feeling. Why? Because the type was born with the idea of ​​being this, of being a watch for pilots, a solid watch, a tool, a device for an aviator. In addition to this, we cannot help but look at the movement. This movement, which, as we said before, took a long time to be produced, has a thickness of 6.6 mm, so not exactly tiny, not counting the part of the oscillating mass. In addition, the watch is waterproof up to 100 meters. The case had to be particularly robust. Turning the watch and looking at the movement, I get a feeling of solidity, of thickness. I don't know if it's due to the use, to the cleaning of this dial, of this shape, of these particularly evident covered parts, which cover a large part of the movement. The column wheel is very quick to see, in this case, which is normally the part I look for most often in the chronographic function. In this case, it has a fantastic LC treatment, in my opinion, which makes it immediately find, creates a very cool contrast with the rest of the movement and creates a nice pandan with the oscillating mass in brown gold. In all this, the movement is very refined. It has a spiral finish, a soleil finish, we have perlage and anglage on the side of the points. Conclusions. In my opinion, these watches should be seen and seen again. I myself tried the military and the civilian on June 6 of this year and I went back to the boutique to look at them better. They are watches that should be left out, they should be seen and understood, in my opinion, not only for the aesthetics and for what is the movement, what is the final product, they should be seen in their history, from the 1950s onwards. They should be understood for what their use is, what they were designed for, what they were conceived for. They are two watches that had to be robust. This, in my opinion, is the best example of the current type 20, which looks at the past, proposing it with loyalty. I personally prefer the military, because I really like this black-green-mint contrast. And I would like to ask you, which of the two do you like the most? That's all for today, I hope you enjoyed the video. See you next time.