Hiking Japan's Ancient Trail | Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage

What an exciting episode of Pokemon and our Misty was Eleanor Osborne. He wasn't the main character. Can you believe we're in Japan? No, not really. Through the mountains of Wakayama on the key peninsula a 70 kilometer 1200 year old trail exists. Now when I asked my younger brothers if they'd come hike with me in Japan it wasn't really a question. All right 17th of October we're going to Japan. Do you think we'll find PewDiePie? This would be my third time to Japan. The second was a trip with mum and Ari, one my sister and I still talk about to this day. While it's been eight years for me, for Kento and Truman it's been a lot longer. We had the whistle and it's telling us get on get on and we look like idiots. But we are on the train to Kisanabe to start Kumano Kodo. Everything just looks cooler in Japan. To know the land is to know its people. Ever since I caught the hiking bug I knew one day I'd walk a trail in Japan. A pilgrimage between sacred areas, religious experience or not. I knew this hike could be special. Okay it's morning one let's go boys. So okay we're about to start. We're right at the beginning of the trail. We've got less than four kilometers today so very very short. It's after 12 30. It should be nice. It's also Truman's first hike, multi-day hike. Googling how to's on the spot, fumbling through rituals. It felt like we'd arrived home to slippers with worn in soles. Imprints that weren't quite ours. See you on the other side. Religious experience or not. I feel something. I knew this hike would be special. How far have we gone Kento? I think like 800 meters. I thought we were nearly there. These are so good. I could just eat hundreds of these. A dreamscape of familiarity on a path I'd never walked. Why this trail was sought as quest for enlightenment wasn't hard to comprehend. Okay well we've made it to our first accommodation in Takahara. It is so magical. We have a lovely Obaachan cooking us dinner and it smells so good. Whoa look at these birds. It's like a rare Pokemon. Konnichiwa. Do you speak Japanese? We try, we try learning but... Okay, itadakimasu. Truman's still asleep? Yeah. Do you want to wake him up? You ready to hike? So this morning we are going from Takahara to Tsugizakura Oji. It's about 14 kilometers plus another couple to get down there. It's so quiet and so still. Tea houses. Nature is a place for presence, a place for healing but I also know there's more to a trail than the trees. All right one kilometer to lunch. Novelties and nostalgia. Every thread left a trace of the multiverse where we grew up. But I grew up in New Zealand so didn't really learn to speak Japanese. Family talk is not English. My memories from our first trip are folklore filled in by VHS. Japan has always felt like a place of mystique and wonder but now it felt a lot more real. You didn't have to eat the whole bag. They were so bad. Did you eat the whole bag? Well they weren't that good so I was like I'm not gonna want to eat these later. Bathroom area. Toilets in there. Interesting flushing mechanic there. It's like a flap. It just flaps down. And there's the bath and as you can see Ellen has just been there because of all the displaces. Oh my goodness. This looks amazing. It was a far cry from the battleground dinner table I remember growing up. Ten years, five kids, zero clue how they did it. Fighting for attention. I was the middle of the pack. He wasn't the main character. But worse than any competitive complex being one of five creators is the absolute unwavering fear of missing out. Mostly tree cover but we still put it on. You look good. Everything is just so cool. I want to film everything and I want to stop but we also have 20 something kilometers today. It's too cold. It's just too cold. Even the road walking. Even the road walking. Should we go through? Japanese gummies are so good. First climb of the day. Even in the dark it just bites. It doesn't look too bad. We have been blessed by the way the gods. This would be pretty tricky in the rain. Easy. No problem. You're glistening. But first you just get cheese and then you get a pepperoni and then the aftertaste is like tomato. Tastes like pizza. Oh it's so powdery. There's so much flavor. What is that flavor? That tastes like childhood. It is hard to imagine how this trail looked a thousand years ago. Monks and noblemen sipping trailside tea in search of deeper understanding. You'd think in a thousand years we'd maybe have more of those answers. What does yours say? Be careful not to slip on the stone. Have a good trip. Enjoy Kumano. Are you okay? Let's walk slowly. Our third day in and I was beginning to remember why journeys of intention usually look like solo expeditions. I feel like there is some notion that going solo into the wild is the most worthy journey but when I think of stories I want to retell, loaded words that spark lost conversations, it's from journeys that have been shared. It looks so good. Not much further. Just remember in your eyes. Last kilometer maybe. One and a half. Long day boys. Truman had said something on day one that had stuck with me. I think the three minds you know. Three minds? No like covers the weakness. Like when one person's not thinking like properly and another person's like no that's wrong that's all right yep. We cover each other's weaknesses. I'm scared. Dad's scared for hell of an opportunity. Why? I don't know. Too much. So we have awoken in the town of Unomine. Famous for the onsen. We got here quite late after the boys didn't listen to me. It's Eleanor's fault. No we just missed the last bus. We're just fine. We got a ride in the back of a U. And this morning we are taking the bus to Ukegawa. To start our next section of the trail. Today should be easy. Today should be easier because I think we're all feeling it. You're feeling it Kento? What's better custard or red bean? Red bean. Always. Cut loss. That's cool. Through here. Right through here. We only have about I'd say less than five kilometers today left. So good. Oh my gosh the shiitake mushroom. Are you excited? Are you happy? I'm tired. And I'm the main character. I'm just an NPC. Last night we're staying at an old school. Does the school feel haunted? Very tired. Very ready for bed. It's almost nine o'clock and we are starting very, very early tomorrow. Kento what time are we starting? 6 30. Okay we're gonna be out by 6 30. Symbolism associated with spiritual concepts are a part of Japanese culture. And well I'm not usually one to lean in. Sometimes it is nice to read into signs. 23rd of October 2022. Last day on the Kumano Kodo. Big day ahead. Steep day ahead. Ikimashou. So it begins. Cranes are thought to be mystical beings said to symbolize good fortune or positive change. Oh man it's beautiful though. I remember the chains of origami cranes my auntie said sent to New Zealand. Encouragement to fight off the cancer found in mum's blood. And the story wasn't meant to include her death or dying. It's dark. It's hard. It's what we're trying to escape. But maybe that's not how it has to be. It's been a year since her passing and as we move forward. How are you doing Kento? Great. We are climbing. So does she. Just um it's going on forever. But I think we're halfway Truman. My protein bar. How you doing Truman? One step at a time. All right that's where we've come from. And that's where we've gotta go. Had a little dunk. I'm way more sweaty than Truman. I'm the sweatiest. That's our last big climb boys. It's camouflage. All downhill from here. Five kilometers of climbing. Five days with each color. Kento put your finger in. No it was like as soon as we got pumpy. The pumpy patch and then lizards appeared everywhere. No we do always lizards. Got it there. Got up there. Down, up, down. So now we're at the chisel. Try that two house runs. Maybe it's age. Maybe there is something to being out there. In between the bickering and the banter. Someone's digging for gold over there. Beautiful. You start to realize these days are rare now. Weather's good. Congratulations. Truman how was your first multi-day hike? Easy. No problems. I'm hungry. You said we're done? Not sad. Happy. We still couldn't speak the language. But I think we were beginning to understand. There we go. Luckily I brought tissues eh? How are Japanese people not more unhealthy? I'm so hungry. Side crisps are the spice of life. See how far this rabbit hole goes. We have a perfect snack. You ready? Charizard's revenge was filmed in... Japan! It's very exciting. Come now or be a fool. What does that mean again?