This is the 4th episode dedicated to sparkling wines, how they’re made and why it matters to their taste. I’ve partnered with Louis Bouillot, which is a producer of traditional method sparkling wines in the illustrious Burgundy wine region of France. They make fantastic sparkling wines called Cremants de Bourgogne from some of the best terroirs for sparklings in France, but in Burgundy, not in Champagne and they are truly fascinating wines. So, in previous episodes, we looked at the different grapes used to make sparklings and why they matter, how they taste different. We looked at different terroirs, and we looked at the influence of the vintage conditions as well. I certainly recommend you check those out after watching this video to learn more about those fascinating aspects. Today, I want to highlight innovations and advancements, new trends in the world of sparkling wines illustrating them with 3 wines. One is an organic sparkling wine because yes more and more wineries turn organic and it often, if you ask me, when it’s well made, make the wines more interesting, we’ll find out if it’s the case with this one. The other 2 wines are ‘no added sulfites’ wines because also yes, it is possible, not easy but possible to make even sparkling wines without sulfites and I can’t wait to have a word about sulfites but also to find out how these taste as I find sulfite-free wines, when they’re well made have a pure expression of fruit that is generally utterly enjoyable. But enough said for now, let’s get into the wines…
00:00 - Teaser 00:35 - Intro 03:16 - Organic Sparkling Wines 05:09 - Tasting Perle de Jade by Louis Bouillot 09:21 - No Added Sulfite Sparkling Wines 12:48 - Tasting No Added Sulfite Perle d'Ivoire 18:00 - Tasting No Added Sulfite Perle de Nuit 23:47 - Epilogue
I'm actually very curious to try this very wine. I generally love sulfite-free wines
because you taste the genuine character of the grapes and the wine without any
interference from the sulfites, and that's generally very very interesting.
It doesn't prevent the wine from spoiling every once in a while, especially when
you're talking to a camera.
Hello, bonjour! This is Julien, the French winemaking guy who makes wine videos
here on YouTube and this is episode number 54 of my Tasting with Julien
series where I taste and explain interesting aspects of the world of wine
with you. I know my glass is empty for now but it'll change in a moment.
We explain interesting aspects of the world of wine, illustrating why wines
taste like they do depending on their provenance, the grapes, the winemaking
techniques, etc. And this is actually the fourth episode dedicated to sparkling
wines, how they are made and why it matters to the taste. I've partnered with
Louis Bouillot, which is a producer of traditional method sparkling wines in
the illustrious Burgundy wine region of France. They make fantastic sparkling
wines, let me spoil it for you, those are called Crémant de Bourgogne, from some of
the best terroirs for sparkling wines in France, but in Burgundy, not in Champagne.
And they are truly fascinating wines to explore. So in previous episodes we
looked at the different grapes used to make sparkling wines and why the grape
matters to that. We looked at how they taste different depending on the grapes.
We looked at different terroirs and we looked at the influence of the vintage
conditions as well. I certainly recommend you check those out after watching this
video to learn more about those different fascinating aspects. Today I
want to highlight innovations and advancements, new trends in the world of
sparkling wines, illustrating those trends with the three different wines.
One is an organic sparkling wine because yes, more and more wineries turn organic
and it often, if you ask me, when it's well made, it makes for wines that are
more interesting. We'll find out if it's the case with this one. The other two
wines are no added sulfites wines because also yes it is possible, it's not
easy, but it is possible to make even sparkling wines without using additional
sulfites. And I can't wait to have a word about sulfites but also to find out how
these wines taste as I find that sulfite free or no added sulfites wines,
when they are well made again, have a really pure expression of fruit that is
generally utterly enjoyable. But enough said for this, for now, as an intro, let's
get into the wines. Organic wines are definitely a trend for sure and I
personally don't mind it at all. At some point, maybe 10 years ago perhaps, some
organic wine producers weren't producing that great wines because they were
organic but now I find that organic wines are generally very well made and
often more interesting, they're more characterful than conventional wines and
I'm glad to see a sparkling wine producers like Louis Bouillot, some sparkling wine
producers are moving in that direction as well. Essentially, you must know that
it's possibly a little more difficult to make an organic sparkling wine than a
still white or even more so a red wine. That's for one, because sparkling wines
are often made in colder or cooler areas like Champagne or Burgundy, if we're
talking about France, often those areas are more humid regions as well. So the
grapes there are more prone to diseases than in hot and dry areas like the south
of France or Italy or Spain for example. So it is a little harder because of this.
The base wines used to make sparkling wines, that's reason number two, are also
very subtle and delicate in flavors. So you really need very clean grapes, grapes
that would have had a little bit of disease on them, while it probably
wouldn't matter maybe for other styles. Still wines, for sparkling wines, it might
impact those subtle flavors a little too much if there's even tiny bit of disease
on it. So it has to be done really carefully and masterfully. It's a bit of
a greater risk and more effort to make organic sparkling wines, especially when
it's sparkling. But let's see if the result is worth it, here with this wine that is
called Perle de Jade by Louis Bouillon. So this is the first ever organic cuvee by
this producer, even though they make different wines, all very well crafted.
I've tried quite a few of these and many different characteristics have all of
these wines they had not ventured into organic yet. It's done here with this
cuvee that is a blend of different Burgundy grapes, namely, as the winery
describes it, quote, aligoté for vivaciousness, tempered with the
smoothness of Chardonnay and underscored by the structure of Pinot Noir, and an
invigorating touch of Gamay. So dosage, the added sugar is at 12 grams per liter,
and it's spent 12 months in bottle aging on the leaves. Classic, method traditionnel,
but it's made from organic grapes. But let's get tasting it. Let's open the
bottle and see what it actually tastes like. I can't wait. I don't think I've
tried many organic wines very often so this is going to be a very surprise for
me. I can't wait. This sound is always delightful.
Very nice mousse. You can see that I'm using a broader glass than just a flute
so I can taste it better. Beautiful color, it's bright light lemon yellow. Aromas are
certainly extremely fresh. They're quite floral. I'm getting some little flowers,
floral elements like daisy, floral aspects to it. It's a little bit grassy
as well and it's got this je ne sais quoi, sometimes I get this with some wines,
the impression that you're standing in a paddock in an early morning, a foggy
early morning. It's got this freshness of pure air when you know it's foggy you
get the air is so pure you only get some delicate aromas that come through and
come up the paddock and the air and I'm definitely getting this impression here
a bit of pure as well it's delicately lemony there's this touch of brioche
anyhow it's all very very delicate to smell. I don't expect necessarily organic
wines to be more fragrant or less but certainly very very delicate and subtle
here on the nose. Let's dig into what it tastes like. So what really struck me
first is the smoothness on this wine. You might have seen my face and my expressions
while I was tasting it. You're invaded straight away by smoothness. It's like a
cloud on your palate at first and I really enjoy this so very well balanced
some nice acidity that is sharp and that develops through the palate but all
rounded up by this cloud and oily texture so extremely well balanced yes
the acidity kind of cut through through from the mid palate on and then it
develops to towards a bit more of a grassiness and there's a bit of a bite
to the finish so really characterful wine very civilized and sophisticated and
balanced at first but then it evolves towards a bit of a grassiness so there's
some bit of personality in there I guess the grapes weren't harvested all that
ripe they still had this grassiness to them lemony characters some lime the
floral characters as well the grapefruit and this grassiness that is really the
mark of this wine and I actually love this because it's sophisticated it's you
can sense that it's been very well crafted and rounded up and mellowed and
smoothened up by the process but it retains the freshness of those kind of
green vibrant grapes that it's been made from and perhaps that's one of the
things that you gain from having an organic wine you get the true expression
of the grapes and grapes that aren't necessarily all that perfect all that
ripe but yet characterful while it's harder to make sparkling wine from
organic grapes than from conventional grapes it's even harder to make
sparkling wine without using sulfites in them in short to talk a little bit
briefly about sulfites what we call sulfites or sulfite is in fact one
molecule that is called sulfur dioxide so one atom of sulfur and two atoms of
oxygen bound to it so a fairly natural molecule that is obtained by burning
sulfur to oxidize it and that's it you only burn sulfur and you get sulfur
dioxide so this is a molecule because it's quite simple to make and quite
natural it's present in nature quite commonly it's been used for centuries
and centuries in wine because it protects the wine both from oxidation
and contaminations by microorganisms bacteria in particular it blocks those
bacteria from growing in the wine and spoil it so sulfites are the relatively
small doses that are used in wine considering you don't drink too much
wine which is never a good idea sulfites are fairly harmless for the
body so it's convenient to use it but sulfites do change the taste of a wine
especially sparkling wines that have those subtle aromas now again because
sparkling wines are very subtle in flavors they are quite fragile and
sensitive to contaminations as well so even though in theory it'd be very
interesting to make sulfite free or no added sulfite sparkling wines and see
what they taste like it's not actually a needy thing to do from a winemaking
standpoint at all you have to be very cautious with contaminations bacterial
contamination yet Louis Bouillot has done it here thanks to some recent
innovations and very precise winemaking I'm told essentially what they do here
is of course control the quality of the grapes that are used to make the wine so
the grapes have to be impeccable also the hygiene and the winery but that they
already did a lot of modern wineries do that perhaps it's pushed a little
further in this case but more importantly when the grapes are
harvested and pressed instead of adding sulfites to protect the juice they add
some selected yeasts and bacteria that are harmless for the wine but that
protect it against bad microbes preventing them from growing the bad
microbes in the medium that is the juice it's like an army of good bugs if you
wish that protect the juice and the wine from potential invasions rather than
using a chemical to protect the wine they use good microorganisms does that
make sense that's how you make a sulfite free sparkling wine plus probably some
extra measures on how to process the wine of course but enough said I'm
actually very curious to try this very wine I generally love sulfite free wines
because you taste the genuine character of the grapes and the wine without any
interference from the sulfites and that's generally very very interesting it
doesn't prevent the wine from spoiling every once in a while especially when
you're talking to a camera while explaining what the wine is all about I
can't wait to get into this wine and explain the story what it tastes like
now so you have those two sulfite free wines here one that is 100% chardonnay
the one that have just poured and one that is 100% Pinot Noir so it'll be
fascinating to taste the difference I assume so let's start with the
chardonnay so this is a Blanc de Blanc sparkling wine because it's made only
from white grapes so just chardonnay and it's made with a traditional method so
refermented inside this very bottle this very wine is called the Perle d'Ivoire
without added sulfites understand the ivory pearl and it's also a single
vineyard wine made from just one block as we know and in the village of Sabini
in Burgundy you've probably heard about that village is very close to bone so in
the heart of the Cote d'Or in Burgundy some of the best terroirs there it's
fermented at low temperature to really preserve the fruit and aged for 18
months in this very bottle to round it up and make it more complex there are
really not many bottles of these wines that are made very limited production I
guess they might crank up the production if there's more demand but those wines
are hard to make and the glass of this very bottle is slightly different to
protect the wine even more against the light because the wine is a little bit
more fragile there's very small dosage only four grams per liter of sugar that
is added so that's an extra brute this is to leave the pure expression of the
wine itself no much interference either from the sulfite but neither from the
sugars as well so on paper this all sounds fantastic but let's get tasting
let's get sniffing the color for one is rather intense it's a little bit orangey
and I'm surprised this is yeah 100% Chardonnay only Blanc de Blanc but it's
got some slightly orangey hues to it so you know there's certainly no Pinot Noir
no red grapes used for this but it's got this little kit delicate orangey aspect
to it which actually quite like and this smells also extremely delicate Wow
I'm getting the pure brioche with a bit of orange blossom on the nose so it's
like a brioche out of the oven with a delicate orange blossom essence into it
Wow extremely pure I'm actually wow I love the smell of this wine hmm oh wow
this is actually actually utterly brilliant this orange blossom kind of a
bit of an orange liqueur type of flavors but extremely extremely delicate it's
slightly buttery and brioche there's a lot of floral explosion as well like
really fresh lily flowers elder flowers it's smooth it's acidic but the bubbles
are actually extremely smooth and and I love that freshness of the fruit in the
brioche flavors that just it feels really really relaxing because I guess
perhaps there's no sulfites to sort of annoy your senses a little bit there's
no sort of kerosene or yeah kerosene or gasoline characters from the sulfite
that you often get from the sulfite that kind of blurs a little bit and makes
some nasty noise on the background even though the wine stays good but there's a
bit of this nasty unpleasant noise on the background none of this here which
sort of makes you feel makes the wine feel complete really fruity all of the
fragrant grapefruit juice the delicate maybe fresh strawberry a touch of that I
mean quite complex but the smoothness it's not complexity from spices from
oakiness from aging it's purely on the fruit expression from the leaves as well
because it spent 18 months on the leaves anyhow it's Wow I'm loving loving this
Wow the intensity of the fruit and the purity extremely intense extremely
concentrated but also extremely pure no oak not that many spices pure expression
of fruit yet it's balanced it's structured it's textural a lot going on
here I usually prefer Pinot Noir or Blanc de Noir over Blanc de Blanc but
this Blanc de Blanc is so phenomenal I can't wait to dig into the Pinot Noir now
let's talk about it briefly
so the second wine is called Perle de Nuit with no added sulfites of course
understand the night pearl and it's pretty much virtually the same
characteristics as the previous wine low dosage very very low sugar extremely
limited production special bottle to protect it traditional method but it's
made as we've said with 100% Pinot Noir grapes I'm not I'm not a sommelier so
not always extremely precise with opening bottles of sparkling wines and
they are warming up a little bit as I'm speaking as well which explains me not
being extremely precise the color is perhaps even brighter surprisingly with
this Blanc de Noir sometimes the Blanc de Noir because they made from red
grapes from Pinot Noir are a little bit taché we say or tainted from being made
from red grapes so sometimes you have some red pigments in those wines but
it's not the case here really bright lemon yellow color this is more on the
marzipan almondy almond lollies almond bakes sort of almond really very much so
with a bit of a pomegranate as well as some apricot so it's more on the riper
more stone fruity pomegranate the pomegranate I guess you know make sense
from the Pinot Noir because it's a red grape so a little bit more on the red
berries perhaps pomegranate grape fruity as well more than the Blanc de Blanc
that tend to remain on the citrus side of things so maybe a bit riper a bit
more generous is what you perceive the fruit is more generous more sweeter
sensation from the fruit character if you wish on the nose let's see what it
tastes like Wow okay Wow indeed I'm saying Wow
because it's just completely different it's a completely different universe I
guess this one tastes much more like a citrus juice and orange juice to be
precise maybe with a bit of grapefruit maybe with a bit of apricot so maybe one
of those mixed fruit type of juice with a base of orange but a bit of apricot a
bit of white peach it's extremely extremely generous there was more
acidic tension on the Blanc de Blanc this is more about the opulence much
more body and I guess it makes sense because in sparkling wines we generally
use Pinot Noir more for the body and the Chardonnay for the tension and the
acidity the minerality the zinginess in when we make blends so the Pinot Noir
here is much more opulent it's really mouth-feeling really really smooth
there's perhaps a little bit more phenolics at the end so a bit more yes
salinity a bit more stringency to the finish which definitely suggests this is
more of a wine to go with food and we'll talk in a moment about the food
suggestions for those two this is certainly a wine to go with foods with
entrees with canapes and even let's say a wine to go and to drink all along meal
if you're looking to enjoy on different courses this is going to be a
fantastically versatile wine to go with food as well completely different
personality we were on the lightness the lively citrusy of delicate fruity floral
characters here we more on the ripe stone fruit grapefruit ripe orange
citrus type of fruit rather than the green or lemon citrus over there
absolutely fascinating to taste as well and actually tasting it again I can
certainly taste the strawberry in this as well so many many different components
there's immense complexity in this wine as well that's why it's perhaps a little
harder to describe because there's elements coming and hitting your senses
one after the other in many different directions many different nodes so it
takes a bit of time to sort of get around how good this wine is another
good element to say that this one is going to go fantastically well over many
different dishes over the course of an entire meal I want this one to go with
my next meal given it's not too powerful stay on rather delicate dishes but let's
talk about food pairing and I looked it up the suggested food pairings from the
winery itself for the ivory pearl Louis Bouillot recommends delicate antipasti
and canapes but also interestingly they recommend spicy dishes and sweet and
savory dishes so Asian cuisine on this is a possibility I have not seen it but
now I can see it and I can see this working really really well for this one
Louis Bouillot suggests a mushroom risotto yeah I can see that that would
go really well with this delicately earthy characters of this wine they also
recommend some baked stuffed tomatoes just to give you some ideas and I can
see that as well many many dishes would go really well on this wine in particular
any day of the week mushroom risottos with this wine oh yes please if you
haven't watched my previous episodes made with the other wines from Louis
Bouillot where I explained the different grapes that they use the different
terroirs of Burgundy and the different vintages that they offer as well I
certainly recommend that you watch those next to really understand
everything better even better about those wines their origin who is Louis
Bouillot more precisely specifically I think this series of video with them
demonstrates how outside of champagne and in Burgundy in particular a winery
that pays close attention to what they make bottles different grapes and
different vineyards separately etc all of this demonstrates how you can make
some very different wines having each a very unique character and you don't find
us very often with sparkling wines right there are subtle but significant
differences between all of these wines they are fascinating to explore and we
were your exploits those differences and highlights them with many different
cuvées that they make they make 20 plus of them I think and that's fantastic
it's been fantastic to taste them all the fact that they've gone organic with
that first cuvee that we tried and continued innovating with the sulfite
free wines and not only did they make one sulfite free or no added sulfite I
should say winery sometimes make one no added sulfite wine to get into it
they've made two so we can actually compare them and they're so different
it's really really remarkable and yes I've had a partnership with Louis Bouillot
to taste and explain these wines for you but the whole journey has been a
real revelation of how precise and careful with their winemaking they are
exploiting the traditional method with fantastic grapes and making a beautiful
wine how good burgundy sparkling can be as well so yes a big thank you to Louis
Bouillot for sharing these wines and I can't recommend these wines enough give
them a go if you get a chance I hope you enjoyed the episode thanks for
watching and I would see you soon in the wonderful world of wine...