📏 Key Specifications Specifications Ref 2025BH/28/9W6 Case 40mm diameter × 10.8mm thick, in 18K Breguet gold – a gold alloy with gold, silver, copper and palladium, light yellow Dial Grand Feu enamel white on gold background; Breguet Roman numerals and minute track in black enamel; 1 Breguet hand in blue, hand-fired apple-blade; “Souscription” signature, serial number and secret signature engraved on the dial with diamond-tipped pantograph Sapphire crystal “chevé” – thin, slightly curved, original design by A.-L. Breguet Movement Calibre VS00, hand-wound, 3Hz (21,600 A/h), 96-hour power reserve, 144 components, 21 jewels; Nivachron™ spring, classic pare-chute shock absorbers; “Quai de l’Horloge” engraved bridge – new guilloché pattern inspired by the architecture of the Île de la Cité – refined and regular Band & Buckle Navy blue alligator leather strap; 18K Breguet gold buckle Water resistance 30m (3 BAR) Price Approximately CHF 45,000 (≈48,700USD or 52,800EUR, including tax) Production Quantity Unlimited – part of the Breguet permanent collection
Hey, I'm Ajay from Fratello and this year Breguet celebrates its 250th anniversary.
Insane.
And what they did this year to kick it off was introducing this watch,
the Breguet Classique Souscription Reference 2025.
It's a modern wristwatch that directly references one of the brand's most
historically significant pieces.
Because in 1797, founder Abraham-Louis Breguet offered what could be considered
a precursor to modern crowdfunding.
A simple pocket watch with a white enamel dial and a single hand,
only available via subscription.
Customers would pay a 25% deposit, allowing Breguet to fund the production.
The watch was designed to be more accessible while still offering strong
legibility and technical resilience.
This new Classique Souscription draws from that concept in both design and approach.
Priced at €53,800, this watch also requires a 25% down payment at the time of order.
A direct link to the 18th century original.
The case of the Souscription measures 40mm in diameter and is crafted from
what the brand calls Breguet gold.
It's a rose gold alloy, a bit of a blonde tone.
It's made of gold, silver, copper and added with palladium.
The mid case features a brushed horizontal finish.
Replacing traditional coin edge design that many associate with Breguet.
The lugs are more integrated and angled down slightly for improved wearability.
And the case is 10.8mm thick, including the domed sapphire crystal on both sides.
The white Grand Feu enamel dial features black Breguet-style Arabic numerals
and a single blue steel hour hand.
Time is displayed in 5-minute intervals, with bolder markings at each
quarter hour. The dial also includes a secret engraving at 6 o'clock.
This was done in the past to prevent counterfeiting.
Now just recreated for historical reasons, of course.
Let's have a closer look at the movement of this Souscription.
Powering the watch is the hand-wound V.S.00 caliber, which takes visual
and architectural cues from both the original pocket watch movement
and from the more recent Tradition line that was introduced in 2005.
The layout is symmetrical and minimalistic, with a ratchet wheel engraved
using wording adapted from Breguet's 1797 marketing materials.
The movement features 21 jewels, a Nif-en-Grond balance spring with a Breguet
offal coil, and a power reserve of 96 hours from a single barrel.
Around the movement is a gold caseback ring, with a new guilloché pattern
inspired by the geography of the Ile-de-la-Cité and Ile-Saint-Louis in Paris,
where Breguet's original workshop once stood.
While the watch is intended as a tribute, it also introduces some contemporary
changes, notably the omission of the traditional coin-edge case design
that may divide opinion.
And while the single-hand layout adds historical charm, it does limit
precise time-telling.
But hey, you have your smartphone, right?
The water resistance is rated at 30 meters, adequate for daily wear,
but not much more.
Overall, the Classique Souscription 2025 connects Breguet's early
innovations with modern execution.
It's a focused and commemorative release that leans into the brand's
heritage, making a classy nod to the past.
