How To Flip Cars | FULL PROCESS [7]

Ex Used Car
15 followers
3 Video Views·Sep 6, 2025
What is going on today, everybody?
It's buddy.
And in this video, I'm going to show you guys how I took this neglected
BMW M3 with a whole lot of potential and turned it into thousands
of dollars of profit.
And if you're new here, my name is Buddy, and I make videos on the entire process
that I use to buy and sell cars and make a living full time doing it.
So if you want to learn how to get potentially profitable vehicles
at low prices, how to fix them up and flip them, make a whole lot of money
on the back end, be sure to subscribe now so you don't miss anything.
I'm about to take you guys on the entire process
from how much I knew I should buy a car for, how much I knew I could sell it for,
how much money I had to put into it and ultimately how much money I made.
So without further ado, let's jump right into the video.
So as I do probably every Thursday night, I was on my computer
looking at cars for sale and hunting for deals.
I was scrolling through auto tempest dot com and this gorgeous blue BMW M3
caught my eye.
It was a 1999 M3 convertible with only eighty three thousand miles
for fifteen thousand dollars.
Now, as you guys know, I find a lot of my cars here on Facebook Marketplace.
But what you might not know is how I search Facebook,
as well as a bunch of other car sites, which is a site called auto tempest dot com.
Now, obviously, when you're looking for a car to buy or flip,
you want to cast a huge net to give you the best chance of finding a deal.
Auto Tempest makes this easy.
It's probably the widest net you can cast.
They give you search results from eBay, cars dot com, carvana, true car
and a few other large sites.
And at the same time, they help you open national results
from Craigslist and Facebook Marketplace saves a ton of time
by not having to check a bunch of different sites separately.
Basically, with Auto Tempest, you type in your search
and you're going to get massive results.
So checking out the description of this M3, it read free of all major
mechanical issues, minor bodywork needed to be considered mint.
The paint is an overall great condition.
Interior is a seven out of ten as front seats need to be redone.
Low miles at eighty three thousand with no reported accidents.
So taking a look at the pictures, this paint looks beautiful for a 1999.
It must have been garage kept with these low of miles.
Now, one thing I did notice is the second picture.
There seemed to be a small dent on the fender, but nothing that looked too serious.
I also noticed the trim was a bit faded for a 1999, but that's pretty reasonable
and nothing that I couldn't restore.
So all in all, the exterior look great for a 1999.
Now going into the interior pics, the interior did look a little dirty,
but most importantly, there was no cracks in the dash.
There was no missing trim pieces that I could see.
The only main issue was that the driver's seat was pretty beat up.
Side bolstering was ripped up, which is super common on all older cars.
So let's go back to the description and we'll break it down a little bit.
Free of all major mechanical issues means it probably has a little thing
If it had no issues at all, the description would say something like this other description
I found saying absolutely zero mechanical issues.
So bear that in mind.
And obviously going back, that front seat needs to be redone like we talked about.
Now, my other flip videos, I usually always have to redo the front seat
on these older leather vehicle seats.
Now, the average cost of that is about $100 to $150.
So we'll bear that in mind as well.
Low miles with $83,000 and no reported accident.
So I do know a little bit here about these older M3s,
and I know they are jumping in value like crazy.
Now, these older M3 BMWs are iconic and they actually appreciate a value
if you keep the miles low and you keep them in good shape.
They don't depreciate like 99% of the other cars on the road.
So I wanted to see what something like this was worth.
So what I did is a national search on every BMW M3 from this generation
on Auto Tempest and found a bunch of different cars to compare it to.
The manual transmission seems to sell for way more than the automatics.
But after looking at a bunch of these cars, I concluded that fixed up,
I could safely get around $17,000 for this thing.
Now, the listing price was at $15,000, and what I think I can sell it for is around $17,000.
So that's only going to leave me with a $2,000 profit margin,
which is not a good return for a $15,000 investment, obviously.
So I knew I had to get this thing cheaper
if I wanted this to make sense from a business standpoint.
The car was located in Orlando,
which was only about 50 minutes from where I lived here in Brevard County.
So I requested to get the seller's contact information to see if I can make a deal happen.
Now, once I got the seller's phone number, I shot him a text telling him I'm interested
and if he has any wiggle room on the price.
Now, if you watch my other car flipping videos,
you'll know that I never recommend shooting someone a random lowball offer like,
will you take $10,000?
As someone who sells a lot of cars,
I can tell you those people that shoot you those lowball offers
without even asking to see the car are always going to waste your time.
So I'm not trying to be that guy.
Instead, just ask if there's any wiggle room to feel the seller out
and see if it's worth driving all the way out there,
especially since this particular car is almost an hour away.
So the seller responded,
I don't speak numbers over the phone, bring money and we'll talk.
So not the greatest response that I wanted,
but at least I know that he's willing to negotiate and he's not super, super firm.
So I didn't want to waste any more time saying anything else over text
in terms of negotiation, since this guy sounded pretty old school
and wanted to make a deal face to face.
So we set up a time to see the car and I set off for my hour long drive.
Now, on the drive to the seller's house,
we're going to talk a little bit about what you need to bring with you.
For more expensive deals like cars under $5,000,
I always just bring all the cash with me.
Reason being is that some people can get a little funny
when you try to bring a cashier's check or offer a money wire.
It's the cleanest, smoothest way to make a deal.
So I always recommend just bringing cash with you.
Now, for a car like this,
I wasn't about to go to the bank and withdraw $15,000.
When I purchase cars in this price range,
what I do is I bring a few hundred dollars with me.
And if I want to make a deal, I put a deposit on it,
make sure the seller's legit, everything looks good in the car,
and then I'll go get the cash later.
Now, for what else to bring with you, I always recommend
bringing an OBD scanner with you.
I have three links to three different OBD scanners at three different
price points that I've used personally and recommend.
I'll also have a link for the scanner that I personally use,
and I'll put a video in the description showing the difference
between different price point scanners.
So you guys can be an educated buyer if you're looking at a new OBD reader.
And most importantly, you want to know how to inspect the used car
before you buy it.
I have a video series that shows you guys everything you need to know
from the inside out before you buy a used car.
And I'll also leave that in the description.
Those videos are super helpful
if you're looking to get into buying selling cars
or if you're just looking to buy a car for yourself down the road.
So after an hour long drive, we finally arrived here at the seller's house.
The first thing I noticed here on this car is that the paint was absolutely beautiful.
This blue is possibly one of my favorite colors I've ever seen on a car.
No fading anywhere.
And this clear coat is beautiful.
The only problem with the paint was a small hole I found here
in the front bumper and a small bit of rust here
forming on the rear on this panel under the trunk lid.
And zoom in on here on this side mirror.
You can see that there's actually some bubbling going on
from some rust underneath the paint.
So that's definitely going to need to be taken care of,
because that's only going to get worse with time.
And of course, we found those few minor dings, especially this one here
on the fender that we spotted here in the pictures.
But nothing crazy that a good PDR guy couldn't get out.
Now, another thing I noticed here on the interior was the trim was faded.
But as expected, we did spot that here on the pictures.
And for a 1999, it wasn't horrible.
And we could definitely work with that in terms of restoration.
Now, the front grill was pretty much just sitting in place.
Even me touching it caused it to crumble.
So that definitely needed to be replaced.
Now, going down here to the wheels, all the tires seem to be in really good shape,
actually at least 80 percent on all four tires.
But almost all the rims had some really bad curb rash.
And on top of that, two of the rims on one side has some severe fading.
Again, typical for a 1999 vehicle with the original factory rims, of course.
So also coming around to the other side, I did notice a gas door
kind of just flops around, almost it seemed like there was some sort of missing catch.
Nothing seemed bent or busted in it.
And the door did close pretty flush, so I knew I could work with it.
Now, all in all, the exterior needed a little bit of love,
but there was nothing too crazy that was beyond repair.
Now, the interior was a little bit of a different story.
As soon as I opened the door, I noticed something that I did not notice
in the pictures. The door panels look terrible.
The leather was separating from the panel, kind of just hanging there.
Funny enough, both sides had the exact same issue.
It was coming up where the window in the panels meant.
It also came up here where these little pockets were.
Now, keeping in mind, upholstery work is not cheap at all.
So that really wasn't a good thing.
And that kind of threw me here for a curveball.
Now, the driver's side seat did have that hole.
But as we expected, we saw that from the pictures.
So nothing too crazy.
Most older cars do have a rip right there, as you guys know,
is a pretty common thing that I've had to deal with over and over again.
But definitely not as bad as the last video where the seat on this GMC
truck was pretty much destroyed from a dude getting in and out so much.
Now, going back to the back seats, they were in pretty good shape,
but they did have some noticeable staining on it.
And the passenger seat was somewhat faded.
But there really wasn't anything that I couldn't restore back to great shape.
So this interior was in horrible shape.
The glove box was also pretty messed up.
It was kind of sagging here a little bit.
And not only that, but the glove box door
seemed to be separating completely here from the plastic.
You could even see where somebody previously tried to glue everything together.
And on top of that, the butt and spring here to open the glove box
was actually missing, but I couldn't even open up the thing.
And the last issue here on the interior was the tint.
It seemed to be delaminating a little on both windows,
which is fairly common again for a 1999 vehicle in Florida,
where the heat can be pretty brutal on tint.
So now that we're done inspecting the interior and the exterior,
it's time to see how this thing drives and see if there's anything
wrong with it mechanically.
I put the key in the ignition and it started up beautifully.
It held a nice idle at about 600 RPMs.
There was no check engine light on. Everything shifted good.
There was no loud noises when driving over bumps and everything
really sounded great on it.
Now, the only issue I was able to notice with this thing
mechanically is it had a bit of a belt squeak.
When your dry belt or serpentine belt gets a little worn out,
these belts tend to squeak.
Belts are fairly inexpensive, so that's not really a big deal at all.
Now, after the test drive, I noticed one more thing.
There was a minor cooling leak, as well as seeing the screen here
on the inside of the control panel and telling me the coolant level is low.
And after looking around, I did find the leak.
And it was a super minor leak that was coming from the small expansion
tape hose fitting.
And I knew it needed to be fixed.
But I also knew that it wouldn't leave me stranded here on the side of the road
since the leak was so minor.
So all in all, the car was in pretty good condition.
Some minor stuff here on the interior, some minor stuff on the exterior,
but nothing that couldn't be brought back to 100 percent.
And everything was almost cosmetic.
And the engine and tranny felt amazing.
This thing was actually a lot of fun to drive.
So now the fun part, the negotiation.
I went to my car and I jotted down all the things that were wrong with it
and also the things that the seller didn't include in the description.
He never mentioned the coolant leak, which I pointed out to him after.
He also never mentioned anything about a belt squeak.
He didn't mention anything about a pulse repealing, the tin delamination,
the gas door flapping, the grill falling apart,
the rims having curb rash and fading and pretty much anything he failed to mention.
So I got in my car with my piece of paper and I told him, hey, man,
there was a couple of things that you didn't mention in the description
that's wrong with the car.
But I did come here to make a deal happen.
So with all this in mind, what is a fair number to take this thing off your hands?
So he told me from his original listing price of 15,000,
he said everything considered 13,000 is the lowest he's willing to do.
And honestly, I was fairly happy with that number,
but I wanted to try and chop another thousand dollars off the deal.
And I told him 12,000 dollars held on my hand for a handshake.
He left my hand there and he said 12,500.
And that's the lowest I'll do.
And honestly, I didn't feel like beating him up anymore.
And I thought that was a pretty fair deal for both of us.
So we shook hands and we made a deal at 12,500 dollars.
So now it's time to take this thing back to the house.
We're going to get her looking beautiful again and get her sale ready.
Now, on the ride back to the house, I do want to talk to you guys
about a few things, first being negotiation.
Now, in each one of my car flipping videos, there's always a lesson
to learn about negotiations.
So I recommend that you go watch the other videos after this one
if you haven't seen them already.
But the main thing that I'm trying to get the seller to see
in all my negotiations is your point of view.
You never want them to think you're just trying to steal their car
or lowball them or get up under on them.
Always want to get down on the level and just make sure that you know
that you're getting a fair deal for yourself
and you're also giving them a fair deal as well.
You have a way better chance of getting a car at a really fair deal
if you just try and get on their level,
as opposed to just throwing lowballs at everybody.
Now, on the way home, I did notice something here weird on the car.
I was driving my personal car back and my friend that went with me
to pick up the car got the honor to drive it home.
I called him and asked him if he has his foot on the brake pedal or something.
And the brake lights were stuck on.
And after pulling over, we noticed that the brake light switch was busted
and they would get stuck after every time he hit the brakes.
The brake lights just wouldn't shut off.
And that's why it's really important to be thorough when inspecting a car.
I did overlook this.
And sometimes even someone like me who does this for a living
can miss some things here and there.
But no big deal. There's nothing we can do now.
So we kept on driving towards the house.
And as we were about five minutes away from the house,
I got a call from my friend saying the check engine light popped on
and it feels like the car is misfiring.
So we pulled over again.
And since I always bring my OBD reader with me,
we did find out that we did have a misfire on cylinder five.
Now, sometimes you just have bad luck when you buy a car and problems just pop up.
It's not really the seller's fault,
since it drove great on the test drive and almost all the way home.
Now, I don't recommend driving a car when it is missing.
But since we were so close and it was late,
we decided to finish the trip back to the house and we parked her for the night.
So now that we got the car back at the house, it's time to start fixing her up.
And you guys know how I do it.
I made a big to do list for us to keep track of everything
that needs to get done on this car to get it in selling condition.
And the first thing I want to address is all the mechanical issues.
So let's start with that misfire that just popped up.
Now, real quick, for all you guys who are not super mechanically inclined,
what happens when an engine misfires is the engine is not igniting
the gas inside the cylinder, causing combustion.
Engines need combustion in all the cylinders in order to run correctly.
Now, there's a few things that can cause a misfire,
but the most common thing is probably a bad spark plug.
So spark plugs actually make the spark to ignite the gas mixture
inside the cylinder to make the engine go boom.
Now, also, your ignition coil could be bad, which is the part that hooks up
to the spark plug to let it know the exact moment to spark
or the wiring from the car's computer to the coil is bad.
Now, since it suddenly just went out, it's a safe bet here that the coil is shot.
Now, what I can do is just swap out the coil and cylinder five
since we got a cylinder five misfire code on the OBD reader.
But I decided since this is a nice car, I wanted to give this thing a nice treatment.
So I decided to get a full spark plug and coil pack set and replace everything at once.
Now, it wasn't really a hard job at all.
All you have to do on this car is remove the engine cover,
which gives you access to all the cylinders here.
You simply unbolt these bolts to pop out the coil, and then it gives you
complete access here to the spark plug socket down here in the cylinder head.
And at this point, all we have to do is stick a spark plug socket here in this hole.
And you can see here, it's real easy to pull these spark plugs out.
Now, looking at these spark plugs, you can tell they haven't replaced in a while
comparing it to a new one.
And they really all look this bad, not just cylinder five.
So I put some nice high quality NGK platinum spark plugs in
and some brand new Bosch ignition coils back in here.
And boom, the engine ran better than ever.
So let's cross off the list and move on here to the next thing.
Now, the third unforeseeable event that happened in the first 24 hours
of having this car, I went to try and start the car the next day and the battery was dead.
Even after charging it, it would not hold a charge.
And I knew I needed to get a new battery for this thing.
Crazy how three things happen in 24 hours that I didn't see coming.
But hey, cars just break sometimes and you got to prepare for the worst.
So I pulled the battery out.
And since this was an interstate battery, I went over to interstate
to see if this battery was under any kind of warranty,
since I couldn't see a sticker saying the date on it.
Now, after getting to the battery shop, I noticed that the sticker
was on the side of the battery and it was all the way back from June 2012.
So batteries have about a three to four year lifespan
if you get a real high quality one.
So this thing was definitely not under any warranty.
And I'm honestly surprised that this battery lasted all these years.
That's almost 10 years now.
So I managed to get a refurbished battery with a warranty from interstate
for only seventy three dollars.
I slapped in the new battery and we were back to run it again.
So let's go ahead and cross the battery off the list and keep on moving.
Now to stay a little organized, we're going to pop open our money
invested chart like we do, and we're going to start keeping track
of how much money we have invested in this thing.
So we have twelve thousand five hundred dollars for the price of the car.
We're going to have another hundred and ten dollars for the ignition coils
and spark plug.
And we're going to have seventy three dollars here for the battery.
So let's jump back over to our to do list.
And the next thing on the mechanical issues is that coolant leak.
Now, when running the car for a while, we do get a bit of coolant
that puddles here on the floor.
And remember, I did find the leak at the seller's house.
It was right here on this line that runs from the expansion
tank up to the radiator.
It's right here on this fitting where it's leaking out.
Now, what happens sometimes is at the end of these hoses get worn down
and they won't make a nice seal.
So in this particular incident, all we had to do was remove the little hose.
We had to cut it back with a razor just a little bit and screw back in the clamp.
And we are golden.
There is no more leaks.
That is the easiest coolant leak you can get.
And we can cross that off our to do list.
So now we're going to move on to fixing that stuck brake light switch.
So I'll take you guys down here and I'll show you exactly what's happened
when you press the brake pedal.
It will unpress this little button here on the brake light switch
and the lights will turn on.
Now, when the brake pedal is not being pressed and you release the brake,
it will compress this button again and the lights will shut off.
Now, sometimes these buttons get stuck or the relays go out in them.
And I found the replacement here on eBay for only 13 bucks.
I unplugged the old one right out the old button and replugged everything.
And boom, the brake light was working as it should.
This was a super easy fix.
Obviously, if you know your stuff, you can get it done here in about 15 minutes.
So let's cross off the brake light and attack that last mechanical issue
in this thing.
And that was that squeaky belt.
Now here on these older M3s, they actually have two belts.
So let's see if we can see what's going on with these things.
Now, taking a look at a diagram of the belts here on this engine,
our main drive belt here powers the power steering, the alternator
and our water pump.
And here on the other side, we have a separate belt that powers our A.C.
compressor.
Now, going up under the car, you can see that the main drive belt
looks real nice and new, like someone's done it recently.
But the smaller little A.C.
belt looks old and worn out.
And now I'm confident that's what's making that squeaking noise.
And for only 15 bucks, I was able to find this little belt.
And with the Allen key, I was able to undo the tensioner for this little guy,
pop out the old one fairly easily, and then we can just squeeze in the new belt.
And boom, we are good.
After that, we have no more squeaks and we're officially done
with all the mechanical issues on this M3.
A couple of hiccups at the beginning, but these are all pretty easy issues.
So now we got this thing running strong again with no mechanical issues.
We got a new belt, our brake light's working and everything.
Now it's time to get her looking presentable.
So let's start here with the interior.
And the first thing I want to do is get this glove box out and get it fixed up.
And these older cars are awesome to pull stuff out.
It was just a few screws and I was able to pop this thing out in a few minutes.
So now that we've got the glove box inside,
I was able to slowly work the cover off the door so we can get this ugly gap gone.
And you can see here, somebody actually used glue before doing what we did,
but they did a really crappy job.
So let's do it right this time.
I scraped off all the old adhesive so we can get a nice flat fit.
And I use some really high quality construction adhesive
that will hold up in this Florida heat for years to come.
And then I clamped it down with every clamp I could find.
And we got it fitted beautifully.
And after that, I installed a new button and spring so we can actually open this thing up.
And then to fix the glove box sag,
I found this super knowledgeable guy on a Facebook group for BMWs
with an absolutely beautiful BMW himself from this generation.
He showed me this hack to fix glove box sag.
It's actually a very common issue in all of these cars.
And with a simple zip tie, I was able to hold the glove box tight here to the AC vents.
And that really helped close the gap up almost all the way.
By the way, Facebook groups are an awesome way to find enthusiasts
that know all the hacks and problems with the cars that you're working on.
So after all that, the glove box is looking back to beautiful.
So let's cross that off the list and move on to restoring the seats.
So now what we're going to do is we're going to pull all these seats out
and strip this car interior down.
Now, all cars are very similar.
Just four mounting points on each corner of the seats.
And then you can just yank them out from there.
The rear seats in two doors cars are usually just snapped together
and you can yank them out with a little bit of elbow grease like this.
So since the driver's seat is ripped up, we need to drop that off at the upholstery shop
since I'm not the best at upholstery yet.
And the next day I picked it up and they did an excellent job patching this thing up.
So let's cross off fixing the driver's seat and move on.
So now that we got it all patched up, we can lay all the seats here in my living room
and we can get to restoring them.
To restore leather, I always use SeatDoctors.com leather dye.
They do a really good job matching the OEM leather.
All you need to do is give them the VIN number of your vehicle
and they send you back a perfect match color.
All you really have to do to restore seats is give them a thorough cleaning
to make sure you get all the grime off of them.
And a good product is Hyper Cleanze by Lithium.
It does a really good job getting everything really nice and clean
and getting all the dirt and grime off.
And then you can just start working in the leather dye.
And after a few hours of working in the leather dye,
you can see there is a massive difference between the driver's seat
and what it used to look like compared to what it looks like now.
With a few layers of seat dye, this thing is looking pretty much brand new again.
And that's really going to help bring a lot of value here into this interior
when we go to sell.
And of course, I gave all the seats the same treatment.
So let's go ahead and cross off restoring the seats off the list and keep moving on.
But first, let's go back to our money invested chart again
and add up all the stuff we've just done.
So we have $13 for that brake light switch,
$15 for the AC compressor belt,
$10 for the tube of construction adhesive that we used on the glove box
and $125 to get the seat reupholstered.
And we also have $13 for the glove box spring and button.
So moving back here to our to do list, it's time to shampoo these carpets
so we can make sure everything is nice and clean before we throw the seats back in.
Now, what I use to clean carpets is the same product that I use to clean the seats,
and that is Hyper Cleanze by Lithium.
In case you guys don't know, I do have a 20% off coupon
for anyone wanting the best detailing stuff money can buy.
Promo code Buddies DIY for 20% off everything on lithiumautocare.com.
So with the Hyper Cleanze, I soak down all the carpets and I hit it with a drill brush.
Now, a drill brush may be a little bit overkill since the Hyper Cleanze product
is really strong, but I wanted to make sure this carpet is absolutely spotless.
And when I was done, I hit everything with my carpet cleaner
to make sure I got all the nasty 23 year old dirt out of these carpets.
And after I was done, you can see a huge before and after.
This carpet is clean and you can pretty much eat a steak dinner off this thing.
I also repeated the same process here on these floor mats,
and you can really see how much of a difference it makes
when you use the right products when cleaning.
All these old grease stains came right out and these floor mats are looking awesome again.
So we'll cross off shampooing the carpet off the list
and move on to those ugly flapping door panels.
So door panels are usually held on by hidden bolts or screws.
You pretty much got to find them.
They're always usually hiding under somewhere.
Now, after pulling off the screws, you can pull the panels right off
and disconnect any wiring that holds on the window motors and speaker.
And once I got them in the house, I used the same tube of high quality adhesive
and I put a little bead on all the loose leather and grabbed every single clamp
I own and clamped down all the leather and let it sit overnight.
It took me a few hours to make sure everything looked good.
But boy, was it better than spending $100 at a upholstery shop
getting these things done professionally.
And now they're done.
We can go ahead and we throw the panels, the seats and the glove box
and the floor mats all back in the car.
And man, does this interior look absolutely beautiful now?
This came a really long way from the ugly, dirty, worn out interior we started with.
This thing is coming together absolutely beautiful so far.
So we can cross off the door panels off the list and that concludes
all the interior restoration.
So we got the car all squared away with all the mechanical issues.
The interior is looking real pretty.
Now it's time to get the exterior looking on par with the interior.
And we're going to start here with that flapping gas door.
Now, I notice here on the hinge of the gas door that something seemed to be missing.
So a 30 second Google search helped me find this $5 little metal piece here
that I noticed definitely was not here on this hinge.
Now, all I needed to do was slap this little metal piece here in the hinge
and we got a closing door that actually stayed closed this time.
So we can cross off the flappy gas door off the list and move on here to the rims.
Now, to explain all the steps to restore curb rash off your rims
would take me about 10 minutes.
But lucky for you guys, I have an entire video on the process
on how to fix curb rash on your rims.
These were pretty bad on all four rims.
Simply put, what you need to do is you need to grind down all the scratches
to make it nice and flat and build them back up with something called Bondo.
Now, Bondo is also used for auto body work.
And then after you have the Bondo on, you can go ahead and sand it down
to contour the shape of the rim.
And at that point, you can go ahead and prime, paint and spray down
with some clear coat.
Now, to match the paint, you should take your rims to an auto body supplier
and they can match it here for you.
Now, I got a can of matched paint here in a spray can.
This can cost me a good 25 bucks, plus the clear coat, which is another five bucks.
But honestly, Wheel Shop will charge you well over $100 for each rim
to fix your curb rash, depending on how bad they are.
And since all four needed some love, we saved a bunch of money here.
And after everything was painted, I got new little badges here for these wheels.
The old ones must have fallen off being so old.
And you can really see the difference between the before
and the after of these rims.
These rims came a long way.
All the curb rash is gone.
They're all painted and pretty looking with these new little badges.
And this is really going to raise the value of this car.
So let's cross off the rim restoration off the list and move on to fixing this grill.
Now, these plastic grills are pretty cheap and only for 25 bucks.
I was able to find a kidney grill replacement that had decent reviews
Sometimes the clips on these things just get dry rotted
since they are made of plastic, of course, and it makes it super easy to replace.
All you have to do is give them a nice firm yank while pushing down the pin
behind them, and then the new ones pop right into place.
And now that we got the kidney grills replaced, we are looking real nice
and sharp up here in the front again.
So let's go back to our money invested chart and add a few things.
We got five dollars for that little metal piece to fix the flappy gas door.
We have forty five dollars in paint for the rim restoration,
since that color match spray can was almost thirty dollars itself.
We have another twenty five dollars here for the kidney grill replacement.
So now back to our to do list, we're going to knock out this bodywork.
And we'll start here with the small dents.
I reached out to someone I know that does PDR work.
And if you guys don't know what PDR is, it stands for paintless dent removal.
These guys have an arsenal of tools to pull out all the dings and dents
and make your car look like it never got bumped into that shopping cart
at the supermarket.
They don't do paint.
That's why it's called paintless dent remover.
They specifically specialize in dent removal.
So we had a few small dents on the car, and then we had that one decent size
one here on the fender.
And an hour later and one hundred and fifty dollars later,
the PDR guy finished his work and we officially have a dent free car.
Now, in terms of the small rust spots in the hole in the front,
the PDR guy can't fix that as they are painless, of course.
Now, me personally, I can do a little bit of bodywork on a car.
But with this nice, beautiful paint job on this nice car,
I went over to see my body guy, Jeff.
So this is Jeff.
Jeff has been doing bodywork for about forty one years now.
And he's definitely more qualified than me to do work on this car.
So I got a little bit sample here on how Jeff does his work.
So first, he's going to grind down all the imperfections here in the small panel
and then use some body filler to build the panel back up
to give him some material to work with.
Then he's going to sand it down to match the shape and contour it with the panel
and then put some primer down and prep for the paint.
And at the end of the day, it is so well done.
You literally cannot tell that any bodywork was ever done in this car.
He did the front bumper as well.
And he also did that mirror with the bubbling paint.
Cost me a hefty four hundred dollars since bodywork is not cheap,
but is well worth paying someone to do it since it came out so beautiful.
So let's cross off the bodywork off the list
and then we can move on to getting this tint fixed.
Now, again, I can do the tint myself, but I'm not a professional.
And this is a somewhat expensive car.
I'm going to have a pro do it and do it right.
And it's only two minutes up the road with a nice tint place
that offers a lifetime warranty for all their work.
So I dropped it off, grab some lunch and came back.
And for one hundred dollars, did the driver and the passenger side.
And again, that comes with a lifetime warranty for the new owner.
So not bad at all.
So let's cross the tint off the list and move on to the final touches.
And we'll start with the ugly faded looking trim.
Now, restoring the trim is pretty easy and clear cut.
If you have the right products, I use the trim restoration cubes
from lithium auto and again, 20% off all their products with promo code.
But he's DIY. I'll leave that on the description.
I actually have an entire video on how to restore your trim like a pro
and make sure that the trims will stay fresh looking for years to come.
There's a lot of junk products out there.
And trust me, as someone who does this for a living,
I've probably tried almost all of them.
I'll leave a link in the description for that video as well.
And you can see here after the trim was restored,
it really makes a huge difference in the outside of the car
with the bodywork and trim restoration.
This thing is looking awesome.
So now we'll cross off the trim restoration off the list
and move on to the detailing.
Now, for detailing a car, I always do the same thing.
I hit all the interior panels with a product by lithium called Inner Space.
Inner Space is going to give those panels that long lasting semi gloss finish,
almost like it came out of the factory.
Now, for the exterior, I always go to a self-service car wash
and get all the heavy dirt and grime off of it.
And after that, I polish it up with waterless wash, also made by lithium.
And last but not least, I always use a wheel shine here by lithium as well.
And this gives the wheels a nice looking shine
that's going to last for weeks to come, not days like those other cheap products.
And when it's all said and done, this old 1999 BMW is looking absolutely amazing,
just like it got off the showroom floor.
And you guys know what time it is.
It's time to snap some pictures of this sexy beast and post it up
and see if we can turn into a big profit.
Now, we're always going to take pictures vertical and not horizontal
when we're ready to post a car.
The reason being is if you take the pictures vertical
when someone is shopping for a car on their phone,
because everyone uses a phone now to shop for cars instead of a computer,
it's always going to be bigger on their screen if it's vertical.
And it's going to look a lot better here when you list it.
And as you guys remember, of all the comparisons
that I looked at on Autotempest.com for BMW M3s in this generation,
I found that this car will probably give me anywhere from 17 to maybe $19,000.
With these older iconic cars, it all comes down to the condition.
And this thing is in great condition now that we're done with it.
So I just posted it a tad high at $21,000 to see what would come up.
So I posted it.
I let it sit for a day.
And I know this is the part where I tell you how much I sold it for,
how much profit I made, and all that good stuff.
But I had so much fun driving this thing when I had it.
And you guys know I have a weak spot for BMWs.
So I took the listing down, and I kept it.
Now, if we add up all the money we have invested in this thing,
plus another $150 for miscellaneous things like gas,
it only comes out to $13,584.
And I know I can probably get $17,000, maybe $18,000 for this thing.
And with the prices of these M3s going up every single year,
I think I'm just going to hold on to this thing and enjoy it.
And after all, I put so much work and love into this little M3.
It just grew on me as the days went on.
But not to worry, guys.
The next flip video in this series, I promise to sell it
like I do the rest of the videos.
Now, I do put a lot of work into these videos.
And I'm trying harder each episode to make sure
the quality is better than the last.
The amount of time it takes to make one of these videos is crazy.
But you guys love them, so I will not stop making them.
So please, if you made it this far, show your boy some love.
Hit the thumbs up button.
Leave a comment for the YouTube algorithm.
And if you want to start flipping cars like I do and you need some help,
you can always support me on Patreon and get my undivided attention.
Let's say you find a killer deal on autotempest.com.
I'll leave a link in the description for that site.
And you want my opinion on if it's worth buying or not,
you can always DM me and I always respond to all my patrons.
I'd be more than happy to help you guys make a little money.
Now, obviously, you guys got to subscribe.
Hit that bell icon so in the next few months,
you will get the notification that the new flip video episode is out.
And trust me, you won't want to miss this next one.
Also, be sure to follow me on Instagram.
I'll leave a link in the description so you can see what I end up doing
with this BMW down the road.
That's all for now, and I'll see you guys on the next video.
