Planet Earth: Kyrgyzstan | Nomadic Horsemen of Asia | Documentary

Today, somewhere on Earth is taking you to Central Asia, to Kyrgyzstan, where the population lives in harmony with nature. The Kyrgyz, a semi-nomadic people of horsemen, carry their cultural heritage with pride. The country is a former Soviet republic, and since its independence in 1991, it has been rediscovering its roots and is now showing the rest of the world the extent of its riches. This territory is home to a marvelous variety of wildlife and rewards the intrepid traveler with a pageant of an unspoiled realm that is still largely unexplored. The mountains have protected the country and molded its culture and traditions. At the heart of the rural society are the jailoos, the high mountain sites where the Kyrgyz set up their summer encampments to graze their flocks on rich pastures until winter reclaims the peaks. In the Ters Valley in the west of the country, 13 families of herders share the jailoo situated at an altitude of 2,600 meters. Mushkat Borodjev lives in this valley. He's devoted body and soul to the Kyrgyz horses. Here the horse enjoys a privileged status, for according to an ancient proverb, horses are the wings of man. I grew up with horses. I loved them ever since I was little. They stir my imagination. Life wouldn't be possible for us without them. I love life out here in the pasturelands. It's how I recharge my batteries. A jailoo without horses just isn't a jailoo. I love my horses. So, I try to find the best spots for them. When they're happy, I'm happy. Everyone enjoys a different aspect of grazing the animals. For me, it's when my mind drifts off into a daydream. Once a day, Muscat rounds up the herd, which may be scattered over several kilometers. There are no pens, no corrals. The animals are allowed to roam freely. The mountains form natural barriers for the cattle. Hold it lower down. Go ahead, don't be afraid. Okay, slip it around its neck. What is it? If we move the mare away from her foal, She could very well kick us. We've We bring her full close to her, so that way she stays calm while we milk her. Plus, she'll give more milk. Come on. Kumis is the national drink of Kyrgyzstan. Burul, Muscat's wife, is in charge of brewing the kumis. To produce the alcohol, she lets the mare's milk ferment for two weeks in a wooden keg or a leather pouch. At this altitude, trees are very scarce, so dried dung is the main fuel. Without the animals, life in the mountains wouldn't be possible. When you grow up out in nature, you respect it, it's normal. For example, we burn only materials that are already dead. We don't divert streams, we don't pollute the water. Of course you have to respect nature. How can you not respect the earth? This breed of horse is called the Spotted Beauty. It's a chariot, Kyrgyzstan's original dappled horse. It has very good qualities, it's well adapted to the mountains, it has better hooves than the Russian horses, and it stands up better to winter out in the pasture. It's the Kyrgyz breed, a fine animal. Muscat raises only Kyrgyz horses, a breed that nearly disappeared during the Soviet era on account of extensive crossbreeding with Russian horses. He decided to bring this breed back and to let the rest of the world know about the characteristics Except this sturdy horse. Since 2009, he's been concentrating his efforts on the spotted horse, the charat, in Kyrgyz. Do you think I'll start a conversation with him? It has a short mane compared to other horses. The other characteristics of the charat are the pink spots on its snout and the white in their eyes. These are its distinguishing marks. I'll call you back, I'll inform you. I'll call you back, I'll inform you. Its eyes look like human eyes. It behaves like a human being. It's docile, intelligent, It has a number of good features. It doesn't. Oh, I don't. It's more than a friend. It's as if it were the human being closest to me. It's only a horse, but it has more qualities than a human. Once a week during the mountain pasture season, all the men of the valley get together. They wouldn't miss their regular kok buru match for all the tea in China. This is the last match of the season, and Muscat, who is hosting it, is going to sacrifice a goat for the occasion. Let's go, boys! Hello, homies! Hello! There's no leather covered ball, they use a goat carcass weighing between 25 and 50 kilos. He knows. Two teams, two goals. To score, a player has to drop the goat onto the adversary's goal. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10. Kokboru is the ancestor of polo. This nomad game, which they have been playing in central Asia for more than 2,500 years, could very well be the world's oldest team sport. It has become the national sport, and is the pride of this people. Where are you going? Where are you going? I'm a 40-year-old girl. That's why... It's the Kyrgyz game, a wonderful game. It's in our blood because our ancestors played it all the time. That's why we're still playing it now. There are a lot of injuries. We break ribs. It happens a lot in Kokboru. I don't know what to say. When you hold the whip in your mouth, and someone gives it a yank, you can lose some teeth. That's why I have gold teeth. We really get banged up. We don't feel the pain, we don't know the meaning of fear. It's a rough, violent game. And the horses play just as hard. If you fall from a galloping horse, you can really get hurt. It's very dangerous. I'm starting to speak. Kyrgyzstan is the best. When we play against teams from Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan or Tajikistan, we always come out on top. Their Kyrgyz are the best. It's because we have these strong, fast horses. That's why we always win. What do I talk about? Nothing goes to waste in Kyrgyzstan. So after the kokboru match, they cook the tenderized meat and enjoy a meal all together. The meat is highly symbolic. They even say that it has curative powers. This is the last meal they'll all have together before the winter migration. Muscat, we wish you and your family a happy departure from the jailo, and we thank you for this meal. He's talking to you in the back. He's talking to you in the back. Hey, why are you getting there? Muscat is deeply attached to his horses, but to earn a living, he has to sell some off. It's market day in the nearby village. This is the first venture away from the herd for these three-year-old colts. It's just a few minutes as the crow flies, but several hours by the rutted dirt roads that meander through the canyons and wind along the countless bends of the Kyrgyz Mountains. Muscat's destination, not far from the Lake Toktogul, is the village of the same name. All right. People come from all over to the cattle market, to shop for tools, to sell their wool, To have a good time, or simply, to admire certain curiosities of the animal kingdom. There are 4 tickets left. How much you asking? Fifty-five. But the big attraction of the day is Muscat with his handsome Kyrgyz, Charax. They're not even out of the truck and already people are asking the price. How much do you want? Fifty-five. Fifty-five. How much? Fifty-five. Fifty-five. Fifty-five. Fifty-five. Fifty-five. Fifty-five. Fifty-five. Fifty-five. Fifty-five. Fifty-five. Fifty-five. Fifty-five. Fifty-five. Fifty-five. Fifty-five. Fifty-five. Fifty-five. Fifty-five. Fifty-five. Fifty-five. Fifty-five. Fifty-five. I'd prefer to just keep on breeding them, Fifty-five. rather than selling them. But I have no choice. Thank you. Hello, May Allah be with you. May Allah be with you. Are these your chariots? Yes. Chariots are so rare that they can be worth up to 10 times the average monthly salary here. Thank you very much. I used to have a chariot. Really? But she didn't produce any foals. At the time, I saw her on a state farm. I begged them to sell her to me for the price of two horses. Now I don't have any more. Amen. How much are you asking? 110 for the two. 110? Can you come down a little? Make me an offer. Would you take 50 each? No. Come down a little. No, no, I can't. 51? 51? No, not possible. Oh, well, wait. We're not going to haggle. Fifty-two, let's shake on that. Fifty-three, and that's my final offer. Fifty-three? Okay, it's a deal. I thank you for raising these horses. May the spirit of the animals protect you. I'm going to be a good boy, I'm going to be a good boy. Let's go. Back at the Jelu, the weather has changed. Soon, the high mountains will become unlivable. Muscat, it's getting bad. The animals risk slipping on account of the snow. Bring them down. Saddle up your horse. We'll have to leave the gylo in two or three days. There's nothing left to graze on this land. Get ready to head down, my son. According to the Kyrgyz tradition, the youngest son is the sole heir. He has to take care of his parents and carry on the family's activity. I inherited the herd from my father. I don't know what to do. Now my son has taken over. Over. We can have as many animals as we want now. Now. Back in the Soviet times, we could own only one horse, one cow, and ten sheep. I'm Life in the Jailoo starting is stripped to the essentials, to speak and everyone pitches in with the chores. Vural also works tirelessly. now. Sakral, check that the oven is closed. Close it, otherwise the bread will burn. Take those outside. Break them up and then bring them back. Close the yurt. There's something really special about the Jailoo. I don't want to leave and go back down, but it's going to get cold, so we have no choice. Yes. If the summer could go on, I'd rather stay here. The mountain air is so pure. We always eat wholesome food here. Everything is better than in the towns. I hope things don't ever change up here. He's going to stay with us for a while. There's some snow and fog up there. I had a hard time finding all the animals. There's only one herder left, and he'll be coming down in two to three days. Good, good, good, good. It's time for us to move out too. If we stay any longer, it will snow and the animals will slip. It's too cold. We have to leave. It's time to pack up and move down to a more clement altitude. Soon there'll be no trace left of their five-month-long stay at the Jailoo. It will take a few hours to break camp, then three days to herd the cattle down through the mountains. This is the tündük. It's the crown of the Kyrgyz Yurt. For us, For us, it's the symbol of everything good, of friendship and peace. It's the most noble thing in our lives. It's sacred. Kyrgyzstan, this small landlocked country, is made up of high plateaus surrounded by impassable mountains, an enclave of harsh serenity. The Tian Shan, literally the celestial mountains, rise to an altitude of 7,400 meters. Welcome to the realm of boundless peaks. These mountains form a jewel box enclosing inestimable treasures. Among the jewels is the Lake Issyk-Kul, 182 kilometers long. Here, on the banks of this vast lake, the Kyrgyz falconers come to train their eagles. Bastien was charmed by this paradise of raptors. Ever since I was little, I've been fascinated by these birds. Then, when I was 14, there was a turning point. Right near Oreol, the village where I lived, there was a couple of Bonelli's eagles nesting. So I began to observe them, on my own at first, then I started working on missions studying Bonelli's eagles. Later I came to Kyrgyzstan in 2009 and 2010 to do a study of the royal eagle. So I've loved nature, and in particular, birds of prey, for a long time now. I've been a great rapper for a long time. Bastien came to Kyrgyzstan for the first time nine years ago. As an ornithologist and naturalist, he fell right in love with this country where the people are in such close contact with nature. That's how it's going to be? That's how it is. Go on, let her go. This is a female. We have a special relationship. I'm the only person she accepts. I'm the only person she accepts. I got her from her nest in the mountains, I raised her, took care of her. I'm like her father. She obeys my voice and she's used to me feeding her. She follows me everywhere, even if I left her behind, she'd find her way back home. Eagles really trust humans. There are so many things I love about Kyrgyzstan. But if I had to pick one I would say the wide open spaces, the fact that there are still so many wild steppes and mountains that stretch as far as the eye can see, that there are entire ecosystems that exist side by side with human habitats just fascinates me. I like the unexplored aspect, and often the wildlife, like the snow leopard, the mouflons, and the large birds of prey. They live in fairly virgin territory, where there are still so many out-of-the-way spots just waiting to be discovered. That's what attracted me here. The snow leopard is Kyrgyzstan's emblematic animal. King of the mountains, it can live at altitudes up to 6,000 meters. This is a typical kind of rock where the leopards might mark their territory. There are several ways that they leave their mark. They often rub their neck against the rock to leave their scent, so sometimes we find fur stuck to the rock. Usually the rock is a bit polished at that spot. Then there are urinary markings, which you can see here. Again, it's to leave their scent. Sometimes there are scrape marks in the dirt. And then there are the droppings. So these are the four main ways for them to mark their territory. He's there to mark his territory. The camera trap is an indispensable tool for studying the snow leopard, a species in great danger of extinction. It's one of the world's most difficult animals to observe. Being a naturalist means having a lot of passion, but above all, patience. In nine years, Bastion has caught a glimpse of the predator in its natural habitat just once. The very fact that it is so rare and difficult to spot is surely one of the things that fascinates me about the snow leopard. And it's true that we often compare the snow leopard to a ghost. In a way, it is the ghost of the mountains. From time to time you'll see some traces, droppings, scratchings, and also they're captured by the camera traps, so we know they're out there, but it is really a ghost. Bastien, committed enthusiast, has been leading scientific expeditions for the NGO Objectif Science International since 2009. To make the youth of Kyrgyzstan aware of the environmental issues, the organization funds expeditions with youngsters from the Karakol Orphanage who've lost contact with the world of nature. For the next few days, Beka, 16, Sasha, 13, and Zarina, 15, will be playing hooky from school. Let's take a picture. I've never been to the mountains. This will be my very first time. And I'm really happy. I'm very curious about it. I can't wait to get there and see the wildlife. It's their first time, so they don't know what to expect, but I'll be there to help them out. Really glad to be going. They're off to the Sarishat Ertash Nature Reserve, a vast protected territory of 1,500 square kilometers close to the Chinese border. The goal is to... The goal is to make these youngsters aware of the wildlife they have here in Kyrgyzstan, to have a good time in the mountains, to learn just what a reserve is, why we have to protect the wildlife, and to be conscious of the riches that they have here in their own country. The reserve is far from everything. From the city of Karakol, it's a seven-hour journey over dirt roads. They have to go over a first pass at 3,800 meters, a second at 4,000 meters, cross the high plateaus, and trust the driver not to get lost in this mountainous maze. The expeditions, named Pantera, last 10 days. They're accompanied by a park ranger and two supervisors. Their itinerary through the reserve is a total immersion in a natural setting that is as wild as it is hostile. Often the people who live in the town of Caracol, or even in the villages, rarely go into the mountains, although they may live no more than 20 or even 10 kilometers away. Sometimes it's surprising. Sometimes it's surprising to find out that these kids have never ridden a horse, or that they haven't necessarily seen hares or marmots, even though Karakol is really attached to the mountains. So, So this is a chance to show them all this, and for them to become familiar with these landscapes, so that later they may want to protect them. I want to preserve them. I need an assistant. These teenagers are about to experience their first bivouac, 4,000 meters up. Thank you very much. Thank you. A reserve is a protected place where there are wild animals and where hunting is not allowed. I hope you can hear me. The mission covers 150 hectares and according to the genetic analyses, it's home to around 20 snow leopards. Bars to give you a tip. Here? Yes, at least 20. When we find droppings, we put them into this and send them to the laboratory. They study it and find out if it's from a male or a female and also the age of the animal. Here's something I haven't shown you yet. You want to see? You see that peak? You can see the bird up there. Baker, you see it? For me, taking kids up into the mountains, as we do on these expeditions, allows me to transmit my passions just as others did for me when I was their age. When I saw the storm. I really feel like I'm passing on what was given to me, and that feels very good. It's been a pleasure. Today's mission will be a challenge. The team has to collect a camera trap that was placed on a ridge during a previous expedition. At 4,500 meters altitude, the cold and mountain sickness affects people as well as horses. The air is thin and the conditions are difficult, but that doesn't dampen the enthusiasm of these youngsters eager for knowledge and adventure. You know why we placed it here and not somewhere else? Because animals pass by this spot often? Arhar. Right. You see this narrow path? The mouflons and the leopards like to roam ridges like this one, where they can see out on both sides. From up here the mouflons can keep an eye out for wolves. So this is the animal's path? Yes, that's right. Sasha, could you hold on to that? So, what's this? I know what that is. Cool joke. That's a big male argali. I saw a female. There are a lot, huh? At least 15. Are you hungry or are you already hungry? There are males and females. Do you want me to show you Hesha? Yeah, sure, sure, sure. Here in Kyrgyzstan, Bastien has found the wide open spaces worthy of his deep love of nature. Now that the expeditions are drawing to a close and the whole country is getting ready to face the winter, he will go back to his second great passion. Currently, I have my life to share. Right now my life is divided between France and Kyrgyzstan. I spend from May to October in Kyrgyzstan, then from November to April I'm a shepherd in southern France. I herd Merino sheep. So my passion is all about animals, wild ones as well as domestic ones, and wide open spaces. What I like is being able to combine shepherding, the great outdoors, and the wilderness. Through the dust and heat of the dirt tracks in the south, one can sometimes catch sight of an odd vehicle. It's the all-terrain IBILIM bus. On board are Ilyas Uzynov and Kuban Moidinov, a pair of enthusiastic buddies. What's on my neck? I'll check on it. Kuban, how many more kilometers? 70 or 80. The project of this... This project takes us out on the road for about 15 days a month. There are 15 pilot villages, and we stop at each one. It takes a good three weeks of work to do our circuit. Bilim in Kyrgyz means knowledge. Ibilim is a mobile digital library. Its mission is to provide information and education to the most isolated communities of Naryn province. The bookmobile pulls into the jailoo of Tashrabat, Back in the days of the Silk Road, many traders would stop here. Like a pair of veteran housemovers, Ilyas and Kuban repeat the same gestures tirelessly as they unpack their modest treasures. Some books, four computers, a generator, and a healthy dose of goodwill. Step right up, kids. How's it going? How's it going? They set up right in the middle of the jailo, where they'll be staying for two days and offering all sorts of services free of charge. We have a very rich display of information on the economy, agriculture, animal husbandry, on children, IT, on a wide range of vocational training. We also have information on human rights and reports on the international organizations working here in Kyrgyzstan. We cover all subjects, biology, chemistry, English, mathematics, geography. I don't know. The program also offers adults a chance to inform and educate themselves. There's a lot of people. Why did you come here? It's very useful, not only up here in the mountains, but also down in the villages, where they don't have any libraries like this. And when they bring all this up into the mountains for the children, well, I think it's just wonderful. Thank you very much. Thank you. Just look at the kids, how happy they are. You have one on the computer. The others are reading books and looking at the pictures. We're really happy and very grateful to them. Rahmatullahi wa rahmatullahi wa barakatuhu. Before embarking on the Ibilim adventure, Ilyas worked for the UN on programs fighting hunger and poverty. He's very committed and works hard for his dream of a better world. You see, there are books in Kyrgyz. This is a children's encyclopedia. You want to read it? You have the animals, when they evolved, where they live. We're there, we're at the store, fish, fishkin, baby. Biscuits! We are in the middle of the desert. There is a lot of wild animals. They are flying everywhere. There is a lot of wild animals. There is a lot of wild animals. It's important for the population to receive an education. If the human being is known, then there is nothing to fear in the future. If a human being is educated, so many things in life become possible. If If our children are educated, they will have an influence when they're adults. They will contribute to the development of the country and will make it prosper. Casper. Casper. They'll take an active part in society Casper. Casper. and they'll become responsible adults. Casper. Let's see if some of them will turn up. Okay kids, put down your books. Now I'm going to show you an educational cartoon. Soon. Librarian, IT worker, projectionist. Ilya. Ilya's visits are always appreciated, especially by the youngsters. Please, please, please, please. During the Soviet era, the Kyrgyz language was pushed aside, especially in the cities where Russian took over. Kyrgyz is now gradually coming back into favor. We also have an electronic Kyrgyz dictionary. We look up the old words and tell people the definitions. I think it's important to let them know. In general, we offer the children's books and audio-visual material in Kyrgyz. We make an effort to promote the language, because it's our mother tongue. This is Kargis TV, Nene TV. The Caravan Sarai of Tashrabat, nestled in a mountain valley, is one of Central Asia's most impressive stone constructions. In the footsteps of centuries of travelers, Ilyas and Kuban explore the bowels of the ancient building. It was most likely built by Christian monks in the 10th century. Religion, carried over the Great Silk Road, spread all the way to the Far East. They say that there's a secret tunnel leading to China on the other side of the mountains. Strange architecture and isolated location have given rise to many legends. Ilyas, what is it? Look, check it out. It must be seven, eight meters deep. I think that's where they threw the really naughty people. So they would come to their senses, no? It looks like it goes on, like a tunnel. This building is really something. There never was one single Silk Road, but rather a complex network of routes crossing the highest mountains and the most hostile deserts. In addition to merchandise, these routes also carried beliefs and myths. For more than 15 centuries, they transported people, missionaries and artists, traders and pilgrims. Central Asia was a veritable crossroads of civilizations. Since the collapse of the Soviet Union and the opening of Kyrgyzstan's borders, exchanges of all kinds have begun again. Every day, the bookmobile takes this modern-day silk road. The Odyssey of Ilyas brings back memories of bygone days. In the north of Narin lies Min Bulak, the Thousand Springs, a little rural village like so many others. But for Ilyas, it's much more than an oasis of tranquility. I spent 90% of my life here. As the saying goes, it's where my umbilical cord fell. And it's where I grew up. It's a sacred place. I always love coming back here. The village of Minbulak wasn't part of our circuit. But I decided to bring the project here and work the village into our schedule once a month. What's all that? We have books. Just hold on. Oh, books, books! They look brand new, there is some great stuff, do you have any games, stop pushing. Wait, no fighting. I'm starting to speak. I grew up here. Bye. I attended this school from first grade all the way through high school. Cool. It's not just a simple school for me. It's much more than that. I'm a student at school. Hi there, kids. My name is Elias. My name is Ilyas. I'm the coordinator of the E. Billim Project run by the University of Central Asia. Erlan here came along with us, he's going to give you a little presentation of the traditional Kyrgyz musical instruments. Do you know these instruments? Everybody? You know them all? Who would like to become a musician? To learn all this? Everybody? That's great! Well, that's it. But just playing an instrument isn't enough. It takes talent to perpetuate the tradition. This is a wooden jaw harp. This instrument is over 2000 years old. A very old instrument. Did you hear the cuckoo? When? At the end. Yes. Cuckoo. Music was one of the cornerstones of nomadic society. For a long time, the Russians imposed their fashions, their instruments, and their scales. Since independence, the Kyrgyz have reclaimed their cultural heritage, and now they teach mainly the traditional instruments. You see how skillful our ancestors were. To play it, you have to place your tooth here and play with your tongue. The air spins around. It's very hard to learn. It takes time. This is the mother of all flutes. What's it called? It's your reno. Let's move on. Know how to play it? You want to try? Try to blow. No, no, no, no, no. Bravo! Very good! Ali, Azamat. That's better. The komuz is highly symbolic of Kyrgyzstan. It has recovered its former status and is now once again the most popular instrument. I love my job. It makes me happy. It may be just a small contribution, but I'm proud to be making it an education. We give the necessary information to the children, to the adults as well, and to the professors who live in these remote regions. And that fills me with joy.