Overlock perfekt einstellen - Fadenspannung vom Meister

In this additional video, I will show you how to properly clean an overlock and how to adjust the tension correctly for a four-beam overlock. It's not that easy. I will now sew a piece and show you how the sewing pattern of the cleaning should look like. Here I have a thin fabric, a light poplar. Because the thinner the fabric, the more difficult it is to adjust the machine correctly. We see here the green thread. I have, and this is a tip from me, take different colors, then you can adjust the tension best. I have the left needle here. This is the green thread. Here I have no loops, but only the notches and the binding points. On the back I have the binding points, the green ones. They should even disappear a little more. I'll show you here. They are only very small. Then I have the second thread, the blue one. This is the right needle. It comes here. It also makes a very nice picture. Sticks in here and disappears immediately at the back. Then I have the upper thread, which makes the loops here. This is important here. If it is too tight, then pull the under thread, the red one, over here. Like this. Or push the whole cleaning, the edge of the fabric that we clean, together. It must not be too loose. It is important that the binding points here, between the upper and the lower thread, run right here at the edge. Here is a professional tip from me. If this works, and then there is a place where it dances out of order, or here again, then check how your threads are coming. With this model, you can pull this part like a telescope rod up. We have to understand that it absolutely belongs up, because here the thread is taken and it has to be pulled from the spool as quietly as possible. If we are too close down, then at certain points the spool is always put at an angle and there is always movement. And this movement, which is very simple at the back, is transmitted over the tension and is suddenly like a jerk in the thread at the tension of the machine. And of course, this gives us our beautiful clean-up. So be sure to go up and also make sure that it is not twisted, but that the thread removal here is always at the top of the spool as much as possible. So this is a basic prerequisite so that we can adjust the tension correctly at all. When I have finally found the right tension, then I take a picture of the setting here and also take a picture of the fabric, for example here, this popeline. If, for example, I try a thicker fabric, I may have to adjust the tension a little here. Probably not the needle tensions, but those of the top and bottom grabber, so that the sewing edge here is nice again, the binding points are exactly here at the edge. Then I take a picture of the setting and of the fabric again. And of course the same with a lining fabric. And now I take the fabric twice. The point of a four-strand is that I not only clean up the seam, but also close it immediately. So now it is important that I also check whether the green thread, i.e. the left needle, closes the fabric, the two layers. Do I pull it apart? Do I have a nice seam here? And if I have it so that I only see the green thread so little, then I did it right. If there are long loops here, for example, or everything looks very different, then I have to either tighten the tension or loosen it. With this fabric I would take the thread in white and then I would not see anything here, then I would be very satisfied with the sewing pattern. Now I show what it looks like if we, for example, only adjust one thread. It is important that we take a picture or write it down exactly. So here I now adjust the thread of the upper needle, which I sew here with green. I now set it looser, for example. I have it just under four, I set it to two. Then we'll see how that changes immediately. Here we now have our connection points, so the connection points are no longer at the edge up here like before, but we have pulled them back like this. Because now the lower one is firmer compared to the upper one. Now the lower one pulls, although we have not changed the tension of it, our sewing pattern practically goes backwards and it pulls this fabric up like this. And when you go over it, this edge is now much rougher than when it is properly adjusted. Now I set it firmer, then we have the opposite. The red thread, i.e. the lower thread, comes up and here it is again a very rough feeling. And the same is when I adjust this one. So really touch here. We start by adjusting the left needle. So this is the green thread here. We make sure that it fits first and then we also check at the back where we are satisfied with it. Then the next thing is the second needle, so that it really doesn't make loops. When these are adjusted twice, we don't have to worry about them anymore. Then we really only need to worry about the lower and upper needle, which can lay the thread and the thread inside here. And now I adjust the red one, the lower one, to firmer. I'll show you now. And here, when it is firmer, it naturally pulls the green thread over the edge and then it looks like this. So we also want to avoid that. So really first the left needle, then the right needle. They are the easiest. And then try. And with the four threads it is the easiest way to concentrate on how we really have the binding points out here. Take a picture of this and that with different settings. And the next time it is quickly adjusted again and you have a nice sewing picture. Now let's try the same with a feed fabric. I sew two feed fabrics together here. Of course, this is even more difficult right away because it is very, very thin. But let's try it. This side looks pretty good. The green one, the left needle, sits perfectly. The second needle looks good here too. But we have the problem here. The binding points are not on the edge. Here are some again, but most of them are not. This can now be that the red one is too firm or the green one is too loose. I'll leave the red one a little bit now. A little is enough here. Now we see that it has changed so much. We are now really nice on the edge. And here the feed does not push us together either. Only so minimally. With this sewing picture we can be very satisfied with feed fabrics. If I pull it apart like this, it looks very good inside too. And then you take a picture again with this setting. Now we have adjusted. The most difficult thing is not the straightness, but the corners. And we'll take care of that now. Here on the straight, I let the fabric run nicely next to the needle. The needle does not have the sense that I cut the fabric here, but it has the sense that I should already have fringes on the fabric so that I can get the fringes away. The fringe does not belong to the fabric, because there are some that have a lot of fringes. And if I did not cut the fringes away, they would all be sewn to me here. And that's why it makes sense that I cut these fringes away with this knife. I leave the knife here like this. The fringes are cut away, but not the fabric. Because, for example, I have 1 cm at my seam allowance. If I now sew 2 mm away at certain points and later sew 1 cm at the sewing machine, then, if I do this on several seams, my part will be too narrow. That's why you have to be careful when cleaning. This needle only has the sense of cutting the fringes away. Now I'll show you how we sew these corners. Here it is not difficult. I sew out, lift it out, continue sewing and try to make the loop as small as possible. It is almost impossible to avoid this with this machine. And then, the difficult thing is such a corner. Let's see how it will be. Now I lift the foot, turn the whole thing. With the four-string, with the two needles, I really have to sew up to the end of the fabric. Then I can turn it in, put the foot back down and continue to clean. Now I come to this corner. We see, we have such a long foot. We can't sew up to here and then continue. The distance between the knife and the needle is 2 cm. I would cut myself 2 cm here. So I put it out like this. So that it is almost straight again. I'll show you now. This is what this corner looks like now. I basically just turned it out so that I sewed a straight line again. We can be very satisfied with this corner. Then I'll show you now how to do this with the three-string overlock. The difference between three- and four-string is that the fourth thread closes the seam. If I sew the four-string together, then the four-string is an advantage because I have a nice closure of the seam here. The seam is a little wider. And here I closed everything as nicely as shown before. If I don't want to close the seam, then three threads are enough for me. So I didn't thread in the left needle. Then, of course, I have to adjust my stitch pattern again. I have three threads in here. So this is the right needle, which is only visible here. And in the back, hardly visible at all, only the binding points can be seen with a thin fabric. With a thicker one, these binding points would disappear in the fabric. Then I have the upper and the lower grabber again, which encloses the fabric here. And the thinner the fabric is, the looser the tension has to be, because otherwise it pulls the fabric together. And that's why I take such a medium setting that suits me well for a thick and thin fabric. I also photograph that again, so that I can change it well afterwards when I have to adjust something. It's important that the binding points are right here on the outside and not twisted in the front or in the back. If you go over here with your finger, it's relatively smooth. If I have the binding points somewhere else, then the problem is that it pulls together, etc. With the adjustment, I start again with the thread that goes through the needle. The needle that I have here has to fit first. Then I adjust with the other two so that I have the binding points out here and the whole thing is flat. If I sew with one or two needles, if I change often, then I leave the second needle in. If I sew a lot with one needle, then I leave the second needle out because it's easier, because I don't always have to take into account that it's a stitch here. I don't want to have these stitches with fine fabrics, because these are the stitches of the second needle, which are later also seen as stitches in the fabric. With two needles I am four-threaded and if I don't have a second fabric, where I don't clean twice, then it's a waste of thread. If I sew everything here with four threads and it only gets unnecessarily thick, then I take out one needle, adjust everything so that I am set for three threads and sew it with three threads, i.e. with one needle. I am much narrower here than I would be with four threads. I also have to adjust these two handles. That's why I look at the photo, adjust it again and it goes quickly and I don't have to try too much. In the Schneider Academy we sew almost everything with three threads, because the seams are later ironed apart. As soon as I iron a seam, it doesn't help me if I have already ironed it together before. It is important to us that we get a nice seam and it is usually ironed apart. Now you know how to adjust the different overlock types and I wish you a lot of fun cleaning.